i've been to his site once or twice. and it seems that only recently has he put up information that gives more details into what he does with the ECU than had been on his site for a long time. specifically, "Raise rev-limit in all gears to 6600 rpm." for this 1300 model. he also claims he fixes "fueling problems" on the various models. i'm curious what specific things are referred to as "problems". and since he fine tunes each person's ECU to their specific setup (air/exhaust mods), i was hoping Cipher could answer what was specifically, or even vaguely, done to his instead of just the usual after effects dialogue of 'it runs better'. i could go on and on about the new questions that are raised with the new info he's put up, but that road hasn't gone anywhere.
on a side note, he actually offered to give me further explanation of his service to specific questions i had, which i sent him, and then never heard from him again.
bonus points if anyone can explain the following from his site for the 950 model:
"3) Complete re-curve of ignition timing
a) Gets rid of part throttle timing retarder for more response and less vibration when cruising and moderate acceleration.
b) Gets rid of high rpm timing retarder allowing the engine to make maximum power for longer.
c) Set timing for maximium power and driveability across the entire rpm range & all throttle positions"
are all these just the effects from the single action of raising the rev limit of each gear?
I have this mod ad will give the details.
The factory setup in the ECU is not optimal at all for rideability, it is setup for emission which make the bike have the fuel injected quirks we all hate.
The fuel mapping has been changed to the throttle response is smooth and more predictable. No more On/off responses, jerking from idle to on throttle. No chugging in lower gears. The throttle has a much smoother feel like a carb bike. Also when you let off the throttle, since fuel cut has been disabled, the bike doesn't surge in deceleration, so up and down shifting is very smooth.
The re-curve of the ignition timing is set for performance and efficiency. The stock programming runs the timing retarded to keep the exhaust hotter to keep the catalytic converter hot for emissions, the down side is the bike runs hotter and is more sluggish, great for EPA, sucks for riding. This means the timing is advanced from stock, when means the bike runs much better and has way more power at lower RPMS. Since the timing is no longer retarded, 89 octane or higher must be used.
You can actually short shift like a big V Twin with no chugging.
The ECU mod does not add power
, but gives the bike a tune so that more power is delivered sooner in the lower RPM range.
The ECU mod does not add fuel
l like a tuner, but adjusts the fuel tables for better ride ability and disables the ECU looking at the O2 so it can lean the mixture. Yep the O2 sensor actually is being looked at from 500 to 4000 rpm, right where we ride.SO the A/F ratio is more in line with power and not EPA.
The ECU mod is setup for a stock bike, but works fine if you add air and exhaust, if you want more power, then a tuner would be advise to take advantage of the power available to intake and exhaust.
Fuel tunes simply add fuel, but have nothing to do with the ECU mapping, they simply add more than what the ECU commands.
Here is my review on the V Star 1300 forum
Immediately the on off throttle was gone, and you could finesse it much better, meaning just adding little twist pressure went a long way, no more having to move the throttle to make something happen at low speeds. If you rapidly let off the throttle, you don't get that rapid deceleration, it is much smoother and gradual, this also means when you accelerate hard and shift up, each time you release the throttle to shift, you don't get that deceleration surge. Also down shifting you don't have to feather the clutch to prevent rapid deceleration surge, it is much smoother.
Now the good good stuff. You get power and I mean power much sooner in the RPM band and it is much more linear. Being in 4th at 45 and punching it, the bike takes off, no hesitation or chug chug. Also I guarantee the bike would do the 1/4 way faster times, because it gets up and goes much much faster if you want it to. Meaning the engine spools faster. I took it out on the free way and gunned it and it was like holy crap, I was in third gear at 80MPH and the bike felt like it was loafing. Yes we all know we can go 80 in third, but he bike got there in 1/2 the time.
At 85 to 90MPH the bike felt like I was holding it back, it had way more power available, and had no problem going hard from 85 and 90. Basically at 85 mph, a little twist and the bike took off, before it would feel like you were getting close to the max power band, and the acceleration was there but more gradual. I quit while I was ahead, because it will get up to those crazy speeds with much less effort. So at 85 MPH, gunning the throttle makes the bike take off.
So I have to adjust a little bit how I ride it, and that is not bad. Because I had to adjust my riding previously to the former way it rode.
One more thing as well. Even at high rpm cruise, the engine is very smooth and not buzzy at all which makes is seem like it is not working as hard.
I am very happy!
When I first heard about Ivan I had a 950 and he wasn't offering flashes back the, and was looking for a 950 to test. Well I sold the 950 and got the 1300 a year ago. By that time he had flashes for the 950 and Bolt.
So I finally got this for my 1300 and it is well worth it.
All the annoyances on the 1300 are 100% ECU related. And it is obvious now.