yamaha v star 950 performance mods [Archive] - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum

: yamaha v star 950 performance mods


04ctd
03-26-2009, 11:06 PM
drilling the muffler

and opening up the air box.

it looks like the air box sucked hot air from between the cylinders to meet noise regulations


yamaha v star 950 performance mods

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05099.jpg

04ctd
03-26-2009, 11:12 PM
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/

we used a HUGE drill bit with a hex end on it.

gotta duct tape it all together so you can pull the drill bit back out.

ask me how i know....

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05078.jpg



http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05102.jpg


please tell me you saw this coming...the old DeadBolt install holesaw

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05117.jpg


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05125.jpg

04ctd
03-26-2009, 11:12 PM
these bikes are AWESOME FAST with these few mods...it will FLY!!! for the price it costs


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05126.jpg

04ctd
03-26-2009, 11:18 PM
AND THEREs one more on the page, it's longer


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/th_MOV05129.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/?action=view&current=MOV05129.flv)

04ctd
03-26-2009, 11:23 PM
;the longer vid, walking out of the garage & around the bike

these videos are WITH the air box cut out and the tail pipe drilled

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/th_MOV05127.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/?action=view&current=MOV05127.flv)

rcdave67
03-28-2009, 08:29 AM
What size drill bit did you use on the pipe? Any issues so far? Thanks.

Sgt Mike
03-28-2009, 04:05 PM
these bikes are AWESOME FAST with these few mods...it will FLY!!! for the price it costs


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05126.jpg



That may slightly increase performance but I don't like the fact that you're bypassing the air filter when drilling hole in the air filter housing.

FlameAngel
03-28-2009, 08:23 PM
Hi,
What size drills did you use Thanks

04ctd
03-29-2009, 10:26 PM
a hole saw install bit is 2 1/4 standard

the drill bit used for the exhaust is too small for a 12mm wrench to fit over it,
but a 13mm wrench will

the purpose of taping a socket around it is to keep the bit centered in the bore.

those holes are OUTSIDE the air filter. go look at the PBucket page to see , lmk if you need more pics, the filter is only around the TB

Sgt Mike
03-30-2009, 11:24 AM
drilling the muffler

and opening up the air box.

it looks like the air box sucked hot air from between the cylinders to meet noise regulations


yamaha v star 950 performance mods

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05099.jpg



Based on your last post you're saying that the hole that you drilled in the exhaust is 13mm?
If that's the case then a " drill bit will work.
If I'm wrong please correct me. Thanks

04ctd
03-31-2009, 11:18 PM
Based on your last post you're saying that the hole that you drilled in the exhaust is 13mm?
If that's the case then a " drill bit will work.
If I'm wrong please correct me. Thanks

yep, i double checked, it is half inch bit.

it makes a LOT of difference.

it's not LOUD, but it appears to flow a bit more,
and you can at least hear it enough to know it is running

(if your friends have LOUD bikes, that can be a problem with stock exhaust some times)

Pen Fan
04-20-2009, 09:25 PM
04ctd,

When you drilled out the airbox did you have to do any type of fuel injection adjusting? Also, have you had any issues since drilling it out?

04ctd
04-20-2009, 10:24 PM
no, i have not done anything to it.

it has the 02 sensor in the exhaust collector, where both pipes meet.

the ECM should recalibrate to the increased airflow, and it appears to have done that.

it's running GREAT.

Sgt Mike, in another post, said he drilled the whole baffle out.
he has yet to open up the air box, so I doubt he is getting the maximum flow.

Pen Fan
04-21-2009, 01:58 PM
Thanks. I drilled a 1" hole in mine and it sounds really good. I think I'll drill out the airbox this weekend. Thanks again.

Sgt Mike
04-21-2009, 07:55 PM
Thanks. I drilled a 1" hole in mine and it sounds really good. I think I'll drill out the airbox this weekend. Thanks again.

Let us know if you have any issues with the drilled out airbox. I suspect that you won't have any but keep us updated.

Pen Fan
04-24-2009, 04:17 PM
I drilled out my airbox. I put a hole on each side, towards the bottom. The holes are about 7/8" each. I'm going on a 150 mile ride tomorrow, so I'll let everyone know what I think.

Pen Fan
04-25-2009, 08:15 PM
Rode close to 150 miles today with the airbox and exhaust drilled and I have to say that 04ctd is correct. Wow....the bike really comes to life with these mods. Much smoother also.

bevo1981
04-26-2009, 05:26 PM
i wonder if you can get plenty of sound with just drilling the exhaust and leaving the airbox alone, because those holes are pretty unsightly.

04ctd
04-26-2009, 11:14 PM
i don't think you can see the holes in normal light / use

thats a flash from a low angle.

it's WORTH it, especially withe 1 1/2 hole saw mod in the other thread.

these bikes will FLY

bevo1981
04-27-2009, 01:29 AM
ok so someone please explain this to me like a 4 year old. are you just drilling a hole into that cap in the exhaust, or are you just drilling the hole so that you can remove the entire cap? what will that do to the catalytic converter and the O2 sensor? if it's just a thin piece of metal, why did someone say earlier that it takes about 20 minutes to drill it?

forgive me for for sounding anal, but before i start drilling holes into my brand new baby, i just wanna know what i'm getting myself into because you can't undo this.

Sgt Mike
04-27-2009, 09:04 AM
ok so someone please explain this to me like a 4 year old. are you just drilling a hole into that cap in the exhaust, or are you just drilling the hole so that you can remove the entire cap? what will that do to the catalytic converter and the O2 sensor? if it's just a thin piece of metal, why did someone say earlier that it takes about 20 minutes to drill it?

forgive me for for sounding anal, but before i start drilling holes into my brand new baby, i just wanna know what i'm getting myself into because you can't undo this.

FROM ONE OF MY PREVIOUS POSTS
bevo1981, you can shine a flashlight in the muffler bore and see exactly where you're drilling. It's not a 14" drill, it's a 1" holesaw attached to 12" extension. Three of us that I know of has done this with no negative effect because the ECU and the oxygen sensor compensates for it. If you do as I have explained it, you'll not mess up anything. The 1" holesaw slides very nicely in the bore
and will not flop or vibrate around while you're drilling/sawing the thin metal that you're working with. The actual drilling takes about 20 seconds or less with a good holesaw.

Go to the below link, it shows you where you'll be drilling/sawing. The first picture is very clear about this. If you look in your muffler bore there isn't a hole there, 04ctd drilled a " hole in his to see if it would improve the sound . The metal at the end of the bore is what you'll be removing.

http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473

If you drill/holesaw yours you'll remove a small thin disc of metal about the size of 50 piece, you'll not remove the entire chamber it stays in the muffler and still muffles at a reduced capacity. The catalytic converter and the O2 sensor are not affected since they are much further up front. I came back from a 158 mile ride yesterday and the bike performed flawlessly with the second muffler chamber opened, and the sound is GREAT.After investigating the air filter configuration I have determine that drilling the air box will not improve performance since the air filter itself is the restricting factor, not the airbox. If one wants better engine breathing an aftermarket filter would be the way to go but then a fuel management control may be required and I'm not ready to spend that kind of money for what it gives out in return. The muffler modification does the trick for a much better sound and improved performance.

bentsi
04-27-2009, 02:54 PM
I want to first thank the guys who put these posts up. I just recently got the 950 about a month ago and I love it except for the sound of the exhaust. When riding with others wether they ride Harley's or sport bikes my bike always gets drowned out. This post is def. helpful. I am going to drill the exhaust but i just wanted to make sure I am getting the right tools. I'm fairly handy, tho i don't know a lot of the terminology and jargon for tools.

I have drill.
I can get the 12" extender.
The drill bit itself is where I'm not sure about. In one post I read 04ctd drilled half inch but Sgt Mike speaks of 1" holesaw. Is it, the bigger the hole the louder the sound? I guess i just need to know the optimal diameter of the hole and what's a good drill bit.

Again thanks.


FROM ONE OF MY PREVIOUS POSTS
bevo1981, you can shine a flashlight in the muffler bore and see exactly where you're drilling. It's not a 14" drill, it's a 1" holesaw attached to 12" extension. Three of us that I know of has done this with no negative effect because the ECU and the oxygen sensor compensates for it. If you do as I have explained it, you'll not mess up anything. The 1" holesaw slides very nicely in the bore
and will not flop or vibrate around while you're drilling/sawing the thin metal that you're working with. The actual drilling takes about 20 seconds or less with a good holesaw.

Go to the below link, it shows you where you'll be drilling/sawing. The first picture is very clear about this. If you look in your muffler bore there isn't a hole there, 04ctd drilled a " hole in his to see if it would improve the sound . The metal at the end of the bore is what you'll be removing.

http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums...read.php?t=473

If you drill/holesaw yours you'll remove a small thin disc of metal about the size of 50 piece, you'll not remove the entire chamber it stays in the muffler and still muffles at a reduced capacity. The catalytic converter and the O2 sensor are not affected since they are much further up front. I came back from a 158 mile ride yesterday and the bike performed flawlessly with the second muffler chamber opened, and the sound is GREAT.After investigating the air filter configuration I have determine that drilling the air box will not improve performance since the air filter itself is the restricting factor, not the airbox. If one wants better engine breathing an aftermarket filter would be the way to go but then a fuel management control may be required and I'm not ready to spend that kind of money for what it gives out in return. The muffler modification does the trick for a much better sound and improved performance.

Sgt Mike
04-27-2009, 09:47 PM
I want to first thank the guys who put these posts up. I just recently got the 950 about a month ago and I love it except for the sound of the exhaust. When riding with others wether they ride Harley's or sport bikes my bike always gets drowned out. This post is def. helpful. I am going to drill the exhaust but i just wanted to make sure I am getting the right tools. I'm fairly handy, tho i don't know a lot of the terminology and jargon for tools.

I have drill.
I can get the 12" extender.
The drill bit itself is where I'm not sure about. In one post I read 04ctd drilled half inch but Sgt Mike speaks of 1" holesaw. Is it, the bigger the hole the louder the sound? I guess i just need to know the optimal diameter of the hole and what's a good drill bit.

Again thanks.

I used and highly recommend a 1" bi-metal holesaw because it fits just right in the muffler bore. Yes, the bigger the hole the better the sound. 04ctd and I both drilled a " hole initially but that did next to nothing to improve the sound. 1" is the maximum size that will fit in the bore. The brand doesn't matter but here's what you'll need and what they look like.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999028000P?keyword=hole+saw

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00926086000P?keyword=hole+saw

http://www.tools-plus.com/irwin-strait-line-88601.html?utm_medium=feed&utm_source=froogle&utm_term=IRW88601

bentsi
04-27-2009, 10:18 PM
Sgt Mike you rock. Thanks. Will try in the next few days.


I used and highly recommend a 1" bi-metal holesaw because it fits just right in the muffler bore. Yes, the bigger the hole the better the sound. 04ctd and I both drilled a " hole initially but that did next to nothing to improve the sound. 1" is the maximum size that will fit in the bore. The brand doesn't matter but here's what you'll need and what they look like.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999028000P?keyword=hole+saw

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00926086000P?keyword=hole+saw

http://www.tools-plus.com/irwin-strait-line-88601.html?utm_medium=feed&utm_source=froogle&utm_term=IRW88601

04ctd
04-28-2009, 10:52 PM
Sgt Mike you rock. Thanks. Will try in the next few days.

more pics over here:

photobucket page (http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/)

bentsi
04-28-2009, 11:43 PM
the lights look sweet. That's one of the next steps for me.

I Drilled a few days ago and i can feel the difference. The exhaust got a bit of a deeper sound and a lil more kick. The process was easy as pie once you get over the fear of drilling your new motorcycle of course.

I posted the video online:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxAaooNc6cE

p.s. I sound and look a bit tarded cause i did this after a loooong day at work.

Suds
05-08-2009, 09:32 PM
Thanks for you guys posting the procedures on how to go this. You saved me $700 to $900 in a custom exhaust for my 950. This simple step makes the bike sound awesome! Thanks again.

950junkie
05-09-2009, 01:14 PM
Can anyone tell me what I need to do to lower my 950. I have some lowering rods from a vstar 1100 they look a little longer than originals but other than that they are identical. any input? Thanks! this forum rocks

Sgt Mike
05-10-2009, 07:45 AM
Can anyone tell me what I need to do to lower my 950. I have some lowering rods from a vstar 1100 they look a little longer than originals but other than that they are identical. any input? Thanks! this forum rocks

Check this thread out, 04ctd has lowered his. It has the info that you need.

http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466

04ctd
05-12-2009, 10:45 PM
I posted the video online:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxAaooNc6cE

p.s. I sound and look a bit tarded cause i did this after a loooong day at work.

sweet!!
"after you take your finger off the mike...."

"who me?"

Can anyone tell me what I need to do to lower my 950. I have some lowering rods from a vstar 1100 they look a little longer than originals but other than that they are identical. any input? Thanks! this forum rocks

Check this thread out, 04ctd has lowered his. It has the info that you need.

http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466


Ace Hardware has the 1 1/2 bimetal hole saws, also.


yeah, the ones I ordered off ebay were for a 1100,
and they had 3 holes, 1 stock, 1 inch, and 2 inch


CAUTION! Read this before installing this product!

Yamaha V-Star 1100 / Suzuki VL 800


Lowering kit instructions

1. See the hole-index chart at the bottom of the page to determine the proper mounting location holes for the drop you want to achieve. 1”inch, 2”inch, or the stock ride height.

2. Secure motorcycle to a lift or bike stand and raise the motorcycle so the rear wheel is off of the ground.

3. Remove the 2 lock nuts and washers from the linkage arm bolts from the left side of the motorcycle.

4. Slide the linkage arm bolts out from right side of the motorcycle (it is necessary to push bushing back to the left side to allow bolt head to drop below frame. Reinstall in the same manor) and replace stock linkage arms with your new linkage lowering arms. The end with the single hole goes to the rear of the motorcycle and attaches to the frame. The end with 3 holes goes forward on the motorcycle. Choose one of the 3 holes to select the desired drop you would like. Reinstall bolts, washers and nuts. Torque the two connecting arm nuts to 35 foot-pounds (48 Nm). Remove motorcycle from lift.

Caution:
This kit was designed for show only. When turning a lowered motorcycle at both low and high speeds the motorcycle can come in contact with the ground sooner than expected. If this contact, should it happen, can result in possible loss of control. Including, but not limited to damage to the bike, death and / or possible injury. The seller and manufacture of this kit accepts no liability for any damages stemming from the use of this product. Install at your own risk. Make sure you and any other rider are aware of the reduction in the maneuvering of your bike. Take some time to relearn how your bike will handle.


Linkage arm hole index chart.

BlackWidow1975
05-22-2009, 07:10 PM
Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum so if I am asking a question in the wrong place please just let me know. So here's the scoop, I own a 2009 VStar 1100 Custom, I replaced the stock exhaust with Cobra straight drag pipes, but I will be changing my Cobras to Monster Pro 2 into 1 pipes in a few weeks time. What I want to know is, besides that what are some good performance mods out there for my bike. I really love my bike, but I NEED more POWER!!! Any suggestions. Thanks

Sgt Mike
05-23-2009, 10:26 AM
Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum so if I am asking a question in the wrong place please just let me know. So here's the scoop, I own a 2009 VStar 1100 Custom, I replaced the stock exhaust with Cobra straight drag pipes, but I will be changing my Cobras to Monster Pro 2 into 1 pipes in a few weeks time. What I want to know is, besides that what are some good performance mods out there for my bike. I really love my bike, but I NEED more POWER!!! Any suggestions. Thanks

A hypercharger with a fuel management kit will be a great help.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.cfm/go/Home.ProductDetail/catID/21/scID/129/IMID/1286

http://www.cobrausa.com/fuel_detail.php?make_id=6&model_id=86&product_id=2090

skh
07-04-2009, 11:57 AM
Drilled my exhaust on my 950. Sounds alot better! Thanks for the info on this. For about $25 it is a very inexpensive mod. I really like the change. My only concern is the guy on the 1300 forum (if I read it right) seems to insist the oxygen sensor & ecm will not totally compensate for the change and we are now running leaner than before.

Sgt Mike
07-04-2009, 02:05 PM
Drilled my exhaust on my 950. Sounds alot better! Thanks for the info on this. For about $25 it is a very inexpensive mod. I really like the change. My only concern is the guy on the 1300 forum (if I read it right) seems to insist the oxygen sensor & ecm will not totally compensate for the change and we are now running leaner than before.

Not to worry my friend, I've been running mine for 1632 miles with the holesaw mod and not one problem, if the ECM didn't compensate for the slightly lean condition the emission warning lamp would come on because the oxygen sensor would sense the over lean condition.
As long as you don't mod the air filter and air box your bike won't be running lean.
Remember than an excessively lean condition will cause the engine to run hot, the 950 engine is equipped with a temperature sensor that would trigger the engine warning light to come on if the engine overheated.

Sgt Mike
07-06-2009, 09:44 AM
Drilled my exhaust on my 950. Sounds alot better! Thanks for the info on this. For about $25 it is a very inexpensive mod. I really like the change. My only concern is the guy on the 1300 forum (if I read it right) seems to insist the oxygen sensor & ecm will not totally compensate for the change and we are now running leaner than before.

Do you have link to that guy's comment on the 1300 forum?

Oddcrow
07-06-2009, 12:04 PM
Not to worry my friend, I've been running mine for 1632 miles with the holesaw mod and not one problem, if the ECM didn't compensate for the slightly lean condition the emission warning lamp would come on because the oxygen sensor would sense the over lean condition.
As long as you don't mod the air filter and air box your bike won't be running lean.
Remember than an excessively lean condition will cause the engine to run hot, the 950 engine is equipped with a temperature sensor that would trigger the engine warning light to come on if the engine overheated.

Hey there, Sgt Mike.
I just joined up but had been reading your mods for the 950 before that already! I started the airbox mod yesterday, but opted for small holes in stead of the large one's. Will let you know how things progress, with some photo's!!

skh
07-07-2009, 04:46 PM
I was looking for the link and I think this is the one. I agree with what you, and many others have said. I don't think this will cause a problem. I think this is the link, I didn't read very far into it while I was looking.
http://forums.delphiforums.com/vstar1300/messages/?msg=6261.1

Saint
07-08-2009, 09:33 AM
Should I wait until after the break in period to drill the exhaust or can that be done now? I only have about 200 miles on the bike right now.

Thanks.

Jjames
07-08-2009, 07:47 PM
I've read a lot of ppl have done this mod to their bike and just wondering how many have bought the tools like 1-1/2 holesaw, 12" extension just for this specific job. I'm thinking of doing this mod too but I don't have these tools on hand. I hate to spend money for the tools just for one job. If anyone like me and don't want to waste the money on the tools, you can sell me those tools to at least get some money back. LMK but within a week thou ,otherwise I'll have to buy the brand new tools myself.

Sgt Mike
07-08-2009, 07:57 PM
Should I wait until after the break in period to drill the exhaust or can that be done now? I only have about 200 miles on the bike right now.

Thanks.

You can do it now, I had about 125 miles when I did my exhaust mod.

Sgt Mike
07-08-2009, 08:07 PM
I've read a lot of ppl have done this mod to their bike and just wondering how many have bought the tools like 1-1/2 holesaw, 12" extension just for this specific job. I'm thinking of doing this mod too but I don't have these tools on hand. I hate to spend money for the tools just for one job. If anyone like me and don't want to waste the money on the tools, you can sell me those tools to at least get some money back. LMK but within a week thou ,otherwise I'll have to buy the brand new tools myself.

I don't know what to tell you on that one JJ, other than,,,,,, go ahead and invest the pittance amount because one of these days you may kick yourself in the patoot:mad: and say "man I shoulda bought that dang holesaw and extension, I sure could use it now".:(

Funk
07-08-2009, 11:17 PM
I did the exhaust mod tonight and so far the sound improvement is very noticeable, but not in the "WOW that is Loud!" kind of way.

The debacles have increased but not to an annoying degree while at idle, But the over all sound is much cleaner and deeper.

Good on all levels, I have to say. The bike does seem to run smoother and really has a noticeable increase in over all power and responsiveness when you crack the throttle is Much better.


James its well worth the 25ish bucks you spend on the tools and I agree with Sgt Mike if you're like me any tool I don't own is a tool I need, so a few more items for the roll-a-way is always a good thing.


BTW do NOT make the same mistake I did and buy a "PC" hole saw... Not sure what PC stands for but it might very well be "Papaer" and "Cardboard" because this poor thing did nothing but make a shiny circle in there until all the teeth disintegrated.
Make sure it is a hole saw for metal.
With a metal type it seriously takes all of 20 seconds without even pushing. Make sure it is a hole saw for metal.


If anyone wants to do this mod and they are in the Southern California (i.e. Temecula) area you would be welcome to use mine.

Sgt Mike
07-09-2009, 09:22 PM
[QUOTE=Funk;1514]
BTW do NOT make the same mistake I did and buy a "PC" hole saw... Not sure what PC stands for but it might very well be "Papaer" and "Cardboard" because this poor thing did nothing but make a shiny circle in there until all the teeth disintegrated.
Make sure it is a hole saw for metal.
With a metal type it seriously takes all of 20 seconds without even pushing. Make sure it is a hole saw for metal../QUOTE]

That's correct, make sure that you get a bi-metal holesaw.

stuckathome
07-09-2009, 11:24 PM
How much would it cost just to add new pipes? I would suppose you would need to do something to the fuel injection, any ballpark numbers?

Oddcrow
07-10-2009, 01:16 PM
As promised, I uploaded some pictures of my airbox mod to Photo Bucket; http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz249/Gerard_Curacao/My%20Bike/
I think most of you have seen pictures alike in the postings of others! I went for a less 'visible' option and did not make two large openings on either side of the airbox, but used a 8mm drill to make two rows of 'small' holes!
I guess it is just what one prefers!!:)

Ride Safe;)

IAFFLocal2562
07-14-2009, 08:49 AM
I did the mod but when i pulled the drill out the drill the metal stayed and disapeared.... Is this gonna cause a issue? It ran fine and didnt hear any rattling.

stuckathome
07-14-2009, 10:09 AM
After I did mine, it stayed in as well, but as soon as I started it up, it blasted out like a rocket.

The idle sound isn't much different, but when you go above 1/4 throttle it has a much deeper growl, I really like the way it sounds, not too loud but loud enough not to sound stock. Can't tell performance difference or MPH change, will post after a few tanks.
Mike

IAFFLocal2562
07-14-2009, 11:35 AM
mine stayed in unless it blew out when i took it for a ride and didnt notice

Funk
07-14-2009, 12:48 PM
Mine stayed in until I revved it up a bit and then it shot out.

I would guess if you cant hear it, it's made its way out without you seeing it.

It really can't do any harm if it is still in there except rattle around and make noise.

I have done about 1300 miles with the mod and the temp here has been between 100-105 at my house. I am pleased to report I have had Zero issues and my MPG seems to have remained good if anything I picked up 1 mpg or so.

I still can get well above 53mpg cruising below 60 mph and about 48mpg doing above 60 freeway riding.

Buckeye Star
07-14-2009, 01:16 PM
First off, first time rider; I took my MSF course and picked up my 950a couple of months ago. I love my bike and lovin' riding!! Thanks Sarge and my man from NY for the exhaust mod advice. I picked up the required tools (and the "bimetal" hole saw...) First off make sure you have a good high speed drill with good torque; mine crapped out during the process... Anyway, gotta hold of a good drill and proceeded. It looked like the piece cut, but the piece did not come out and it looks like it pushed further into the pipe. Fired up the bike, but it still didn't come out. Borrowed a mechanic buddy's loooong screwdriver to try and wedge it out, but it wouldn't budge. Now I'm thinking of getting a longer drill extension and trying again. Suggestions, comments?? Thanks, Pete

Buckeye Star
07-14-2009, 10:55 PM
Good news; second try was a charm. I noticed the hole saw mandrel needed to be tightened down more into the drill extension. Because of it being loose it didn't cut the metal all the way around. Once I tightened it down and redrilled it worked great and was cut & popped out in about 25 seconds!

The exhaust sounds great! Noticeable louder just idling and especially when in gear. Highly recommended technique and an inexpensive mod.

I'm curious to hear about performance & gas mileage from others that have completed the exhaust mod a while ago... I'll update you on my results as well.

dmill1220
07-15-2009, 11:27 AM
I recently upgraded to a 09 Vstar 950, but since I'm kind of old school I can't help but wonder what the reduction of back pressure will do to the valves after a few thousand miles are put on the bike.
I would like to hear from someone that has logged at least 10k on their bike with this Mod.

I was taught that a reduction in back pressure could result in too much cold air entering the exhaust and warping a valve. I don't really know if this applies to bikes nowadays, I was told this by mechanics way back in the early 70's.

I'm not so sure I would attempt this mod without checking with the engineers that designed the bike, maybe I'm just to cautious? lol

Dennis

Saint
07-15-2009, 11:56 AM
I'm no engineer but if that were the case I would think the guys that put aftermarket pipes on thier bikes would be having valve issues. I've never heard anyone I know mention it. Just a thought.

IAFF Local 293 here.

Sgt Mike
07-15-2009, 10:02 PM
I recently upgraded to a 09 Vstar 950, but since I'm kind of old school I can't help but wonder what the reduction of back pressure will do to the valves after a few thousand miles are put on the bike.
I would like to hear from someone that has logged at least 10k on their bike with this Mod.

I was taught that a reduction in back pressure could result in too much cold air entering the exhaust and warping a valve. I don't really know if this applies to bikes nowadays, I was told this by mechanics way back in the early 70's.

I'm not so sure I would attempt this mod without checking with the engineers that designed the bike, maybe I'm just to cautious? lol

Dennis

The reduction of back pressure is very minimal because;
#1, your only removing 1" disc

#2, You're not changing the stock pipes so the ID of the pipes doesn't change.

#3, There's a catalytic converter in the muffler and it provides ample back pressure.

#4, A big drop in back pressure(which doesn't happen with this mod) will cause the engine to run lean and a lean condition can cause the engine to run hotter not colder.


Based on my experience with motorcycles, exhaust valve can burn if a bike is run without any muffler(straight short pipes) but it would take a long time, if it happens at all.

Look guys, we're talking about a reciprocal internally combusted engine, not a swiss watch. These engine are not that delicate.

bevo1981
07-17-2009, 03:30 AM
Look guys, we're talking about a reciprocal internally combusted engine, not a swiss watch. These engine are not that delicate.

and how does an internal combustion engine work?
:D

i was weary to try this at first because this is my first bike and i wouldn't want to do something stupid so soon (too late as i've already slid out the back tire from too much rear brake), but it's true that you would actually be causing more change to your ECM by changing out the pipes completely.

Sgt Mike
07-17-2009, 08:26 AM
and how does an internal combustion engine work?
:D

Suck,,, bang,,, blow!!!!! suck,,, bang,,, blow!!! etc, etc, 'til the ignition switch is turned off. :D:p:o

Saint
07-17-2009, 09:36 AM
Man! Since you put it that way maybe I'll marry my bike!!!! :)

stuckathome
07-17-2009, 09:44 AM
I love this mod, makes the bike sound awesome. My question is the valve sounds, I can her them ticking, nothing bad, since this is my first bike all the sounds I hear make me worry. I talked to the yamaha shop when I did the first checkup(didn't have time for the valve clearence check, bike had to be absolutely cold) and was told when you don't hear the valves that could be a problem. Anyone else can hear the light ticking on their 950? BTW sound was there before the mod.

Mike

dmill1220
07-17-2009, 04:24 PM
I love this mod, makes the bike sound awesome. My question is the valve sounds, I can her them ticking, nothing bad, since this is my first bike all the sounds I hear make me worry. I talked to the yamaha shop when I did the first checkup(didn't have time for the valve clearence check, bike had to be absolutely cold) and was told when you don't hear the valves that could be a problem. Anyone else can hear the light ticking on their 950? BTW sound was there before the mod.

Mike
I hear the same ticking coming from my valves, I now have aprox 220 miles on my 950, and I haven't yet dared to make the exhaust Mod.

I did notice that the rear cylinder chrome cover seems loose compared to the front cylinder cover, I took it back to the dealer to see if they could tighten it. They checked all the other Vstar 950's they had on the show room floor, and all of them seem to have the same loose feeling, rear cylinder chrome head cover.

I was informed to keep riding, following the break in guidelines, until my 600 mile service when they are going to go through the whole bike.

Anyone else having the same issues?
Another question, could making a hole that big, (1-1/2 inches) in the final baffle, cause any issues with condensation or moisture entering further into the muffler than normal ?


Dennis

Saint
07-17-2009, 04:43 PM
I have about 450 miles on mine and I hear the same ticking. I'll see what they say at 600 when they change the oil. Sound was there before the mod on mine also.

Sgt Mike
07-17-2009, 04:55 PM
I love this mod, makes the bike sound awesome. My question is the valve sounds, I can her them ticking, nothing bad, since this is my first bike all the sounds I hear make me worry. I talked to the yamaha shop when I did the first checkup(didn't have time for the valve clearence check, bike had to be absolutely cold) and was told when you don't hear the valves that could be a problem. Anyone else can hear the light ticking on their 950? BTW sound was there before the mod.

Mike

That's the way the 950's are Mike, more pronounced at operating temperature. No problems when you hear 'em.
You're correct, the exhaust mod didn't make that happen.

jbdobbs
08-07-2009, 02:46 PM
Sgt Mike I have seen the mod below for 1300c vtx bikes and was wondering if it would work on my wifes 950 V-Star. I think I'm going to try it this weekend with the back pressure addition they mention. She wants a really loud bike and looks like a good option 2 me and it should be 100% reversable when she gets tired of it.

http://www.crapmods.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=7601&highlight=exhaust

Goldhunter
08-07-2009, 04:19 PM
Dobbs, I'm no mechanic but I think with the O2 sensor the 950 has it might be difficult.

Sgt Mike
08-07-2009, 09:27 PM
Sgt Mike I have seen the mod below for 1300c vtx bikes and was wondering if it would work on my wifes 950 V-Star. I think I'm going to try it this weekend with the back pressure addition they mention. She wants a really loud bike and looks like a good option 2 me and it should be 100% reversable when she gets tired of it.

http://www.crapmods.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=7601&highlight=exhaust

GoldHunter is correct, you must figure a way to keep the O2 sensor functional or you'll have some driveability concerns.:( If you don't have the O2 sensor the electronic engine control modual will be searching for data that's not there causing the engine warning light to come on.:mad:

jbdobbs
08-10-2009, 10:27 AM
The O2 sensor on the 950 is located on the manifold pipe not the muffler. I will be removing just the muffler and adding a exhaust tip with a back pressure adjustment.

Goldhunter
08-10-2009, 10:49 AM
So, you're leaving it as a 2-1 exhaust then? that makes more sense.

I thought you were going to do exhaust tips off of the two separate headers.

Sgt Mike
08-10-2009, 11:08 AM
The O2 sensor on the 950 is located on the manifold pipe not the muffler. I will be removing just the muffler and adding a exhaust tip with a back pressure adjustment.

Ok, I thought that you were going to replace the stock pipes as well. You have my curiosity on the "back pressure adjustment" thing. How will you be doing it? Is it the washer welded on top of a 1/4" bolt and mounted 1" in from the tip of the pipe that can be rotated at different angles to change the sound and pressure?

jbdobbs
08-13-2009, 09:45 AM
Sgt Mike that is right I already have the pipe on the bike and it sounds mean, the wife loves it. It pops a little but that is due to not having any baffles. And to answer your question yes the washer it the idea but with a 2" washer as the pipe on the 950 is larger than the 1300 duals. This is what it looks like but about 5 in shorter. I also had to make a support bracket that somes off of the stock bracket holes below the passenger pets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200373025130&category=35596&_trksid=p4340.m183&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BC%252BS%252BIA%2 6itu%3DSI%252BUS-BWR%252BUCI%252BUCC%252BPSS%252BCRS%252BRTQ%252BIT %252BUA%26otn%3D1%26ps%3D33

Sgt Mike
08-13-2009, 11:01 AM
Sgt Mike that is right I already have the pipe on the bike and it sounds mean, the wife loves it. It pops a little but that is due to not having any baffles. And to answer your question yes the washer it the idea but with a 2" washer as the pipe on the 950 is larger than the 1300 duals. This is what it looks like but about 5 in shorter. I also had to make a support bracket that somes off of the stock bracket holes below the passenger pets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200373025130&category=35596&_trksid=p4340.m183&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BC%252BS%252BIA%2 6itu%3DSI%252BUS-BWR%252BUCI%252BUCC%252BPSS%252BCRS%252BRTQ%252BIT %252BUA%26otn%3D1%26ps%3D33

Good job JB:), that's a great looking set-up.

Funk
08-13-2009, 11:34 PM
JBDobbs, are you the one on eBay selling this pipe?

Or did you buy this pipe from this seller?

RamsgateStar
11-13-2009, 05:35 AM
Have arbor and 1 1/2 inch hole saw, but have two dumb questions:


1) has anyone in the UK done this mod drilling out the pipes on a 950? Could it cause problems when the bike is MOT'd? Also, I've heard the Police can force you to have a vehicle checked if your pipes are too loud. Presumably this minor mod isn't going to get police attention?

2) just curious if anyone has drilled a bigger hole, possibly taking the entire cone out. Would this affect the catalytic converter?

Oddcrow
11-13-2009, 06:47 AM
Have arbor and 1 1/2 inch hole saw, but have two dumb questions:


1) has anyone in the UK done this mod drilling out the pipes on a 950? Could it cause problems when the bike is MOT'd? Also, I've heard the Police can force you to have a vehicle checked if your pipes are too loud. Presumably this minor mod isn't going to get police attention?

2) just curious if anyone has drilled a bigger hole, possibly taking the entire cone out. Would this affect the catalytic converter?

Sofar, have not heard of any problems with this Mod! I do have some backfiring sometimes when closing my throttle, but not much.
Do not know of police regulations on checking your vehicle!!

Ride safe!;)

Benny
11-22-2009, 09:03 AM
Would this mod work on an 1100 as well, or is the internal pipe configuration different?

Vrider
01-18-2010, 12:01 PM
How is the warranty affected on a new bike if u drill out the stock pipes? Or drill holes in the air housing?...thx

bentsi
01-18-2010, 03:13 PM
How is the warranty affected on a new bike if u drill out the stock pipes? Or drill holes in the air housing?...thx

I don't know about the warranty but don't drill holes in the air housing, if you read the full thread it mentions that you don't need to drill holes in the air housing because it doesn't really do anything.

stoner
02-24-2010, 01:43 AM
I don't know about the warranty but don't drill holes in the air housing, if you read the full thread it mentions that you don't need to drill holes in the air housing because it doesn't really do anything.

hi. with the minor exhaust mods it should be okay for police checks as its still the original pipe with factory markings.

stoner
02-24-2010, 02:31 AM
hi, iwent the whole hog i split the pipe into three parts with a 1mm disc cutter along the fatory joins, removed the catalyser, drilled out the small disc in the centre pipe and holesawed 5 1in holes round the support plate.on the other end i took out the large baffle plate and hole sawed another 5 1in holes in the support plate for the centre tube.i tigged it back up and went for a blast, wot for a few minutes then did a plug chop the ecu fueling coped okay the plugs were fine. the noise! round town i use a high gear and let it chug cos when you nail it think top fuel. its a bit to anti social in built up areas but its music on the motorway and back roads im going to make some discs to put the cat back into the exit end when i want to quiet it down. i ran the xvs950cc in quite hard. its now got fully synth 20-50 oil in it and ican see 105mph on the speedo with the stock airbox on. thats next and a fuel manage ment box. ifeel it may be running out of injector at the top end so i might increase base fuel pressure a tad or up the injector size by the way i love this black beauty its a keeper.

stoner
02-24-2010, 02:53 AM
Have arbor and 1 1/2 inch hole saw, but have two dumb questions:


1) has anyone in the UK done this mod drilling out the pipes on a 950? Could it cause problems when the bike is MOT'd? Also, I've heard the Police can force you to have a vehicle checked if your pipes are too loud. Presumably this minor mod isn't going to get police attention?

2) just curious if anyone has drilled a bigger hole, possibly taking the entire cone out. Would this affect the catalytic converter?

hi see my thread about radical exhaust mod. yes i have taken out exhaust cone. if the old bill pull you its a standard factory exhaust end of story come mot time it will sail through the mot testers can use their discretion when it comes to noise. ihad an xv535 with absolutely nothing in the collector box or exhaust pipe and it sailed through in fact the inspector complimented me on the sound it reminded him of proper, old brit bikes.by the way i took the cat out as well.

stoner
02-24-2010, 02:56 AM
How is the warranty affected on a new bike if u drill out the stock pipes? Or drill holes in the air housing?...thx

your warranty is null and void if they see the mods

M.Waters
02-28-2010, 10:20 AM
Does anyone know if drilling the exhaust hole has caused any issues with the factory order extended warranties? Will this procedure void either of them?

Sgt Mike
02-28-2010, 07:15 PM
your warranty is null and void if they see the mods

No,,,, it doesn't void the factory warranty on anything but the muffler which doesn't have much of a warranty to start with.

Sgt Mike
02-28-2010, 07:20 PM
Does anyone know if drilling the exhaust hole has caused any issues with the factory order extended warranties? Will this procedure void either of them?

Mine has been drilled out for more than 3k miles and hasn't caused any driveability issues. DRILLING THE MUFFLER WILL NOT void the factory or an extended warranty.

bevo1981
03-01-2010, 04:42 AM
my exhaust is drilled out and i've added a cobra fuel processor and LA Choppers air kit. all parts needed for all 3 mods = $425. i see absolutely no need to switch out pipes. with the extra torque and more beefy sound i get, it is definitely worth the work and the money i've put into it. it definitely adds both bark and bite.

tolkien
06-06-2010, 12:28 PM
For those who like it quick and dirty! OMG, just do this to your 950... you will not regret it! Put all your fears aside and JUST DO IT!!!!

Now, couple of quick things. Don't bother with anything other than a brand new bi-metal 1 1/2 inch hole saw. Seriously, I bought a brand new one just incase but started off using my buddies old one and was going to return the new on (I didn't really need one and it's was $15 at the local hardware store up in the Ottawa, Canada area). Anyway, his just didn't do the trick. After a couple of tries with his I swapped to the new one and it was 20 seconds worth of drilling.

Also, don't bother with anything other than a fully charged fast drill. Those cheap impact type drills don't spin fast enough and you'll just start wondering why it's not going through.

So... basically, new bi-metal hole saw, fast fully charged cordless drill if you have one or just a regular run of the mill electric one.

Oh, yeah, and one last thing, if you don't have one borrow one of those long magnetic pick up things if you can. On the first attemp the mandril thingy came off and I had to fish it out. Was a lot easier since I had one of those magnet things. But it's not the end of the world. You could just start up the bike and watch the parts fly out of your exhaust LOL LOL...

So, don't wait... get this mod done.

Thanks everyone who took the time to post this stuff on here and youtube etc... I'm so happy now with the bike, it was the only thing I was not happy about. But now the bike is perfect.

Oh, yeah, I only did the pipe, didn't do anything else (i.e. air box mod) as some did in this post.

Take care.

Tonydtiger1971
06-06-2010, 10:34 PM
What does this do to the gas mileage? As the engine is getting broken in I'm getting over 60 mpg now.

Builderrrdu
06-12-2010, 09:06 PM
Hello... popular mod from the look of things...great suggestion to whom ever came up with the idea...I completed mine today...only 160 miles to date, bike was a little too sluggish for me coming off a wing, and a mean streak...(saving money on insurance) Hoping to doing a few more HP mods soon.
Does the Cobra management system work well...I see 2 of them?? one better than the other?? Need for speed...:) Too much down shifting..

BTW... best investment so far....Corbin seat, mine should be here this week, my butt is SORE!
Take care...thanks for the mods!

taboo365
06-12-2010, 11:09 PM
I'm leaving mine stock.

Builderrrdu
06-13-2010, 05:16 PM
Well...went out today after completing my mods like the others, and have to say..What a difference! The bike is much more responsive. Still thinking of the Cobra programmer. Alot of back firing on downhill and slow downs??
I drilled 6- 1/2" holes on the side spaced evenly, and 2 at the very bottom too. Looks good, with little attention grabbing. K&N is next install.

stoner
06-16-2010, 04:18 AM
Well...went out today after completing my mods like the others, and have to say..What a difference! The bike is much more responsive. Still thinking of the Cobra programmer. Alot of back firing on downhill and slow downs??
I drilled 6- 1/2" holes on the side spaced evenly, and 2 at the very bottom too. Looks good, with little attention grabbing. K&N is next install.

if you want to keep the clean lines of the airbox drill and carve out the back of the airbox you can remove huge amount without compromising the strength or integrity of the box just make sure you dont drill into the filter housing. youve then got huge amounts of air into the filter and you dont see the mod from the out side.:)

el_bole
06-18-2010, 12:21 AM
I drilled out my baffle on my 09' 950 and it seems to me I am only getting about 150 miles per tank. Yamaha states 47 mpg, so the wth? Any feedback welcome...

el_bole
06-18-2010, 12:27 AM
What does this do to the gas mileage? As the engine is getting broken in I'm getting over 60 mpg now.

What kind of bike do you have?

Tonydtiger1971
06-18-2010, 10:44 PM
What kind of bike do you have?

Hi Ebole;

I have the 950. I spoke too soon, last fill up was only 57 mpg. I don't think I drive like a granny or anything, average 70 to 80 on the interstate and usually 60 or 70 in the few straight places, but there are a lot of curves in the area so it's usually from 50 to 60, with the floorboards dragging.

el_bole
07-27-2010, 02:34 AM
I drilled four 1 inch holes on the front end of the air box thinking that the air coming in will flow out the exhaust. Is this hindering the full potencial of power I could be getting? I noticed that Sgt. Mike put a hole on the front and back..air flowing through increased performance? Any info would be helpful....Oh and thanks for all the info you guys put on here..

el_bole
07-27-2010, 02:35 AM
Already drilled out the baffle after watching a youtube video, sound better and with the holes in the box it sounds even more vicious!!!

stoner
07-27-2010, 06:18 AM
hi, i holesawed and filed most of the back of the airbox between the webs and under the filter i didn,t want the ram air because i wanted to keep a smooth flow in the air box too much turbulance is not good and the plus side is you cant see it. i just bought a new 18 inch long reverse cone megaphone for the 950 it fits perfectly with the spacers supplied and you only need to make a 20mm spacer to attach it to the fist hole on the muffler bracket.if you want to keep it flowing you can bend a small piece of st-st over a lampost in the shape of a cone and pk screw it onto the original out side pipe and shape to lay on the new exaust keeping it all flowing. the best bit is the awesome sound and the price about $89 and p&p to the usa about$30 its called a megaton muffler. their website is www. custom-fasteners.co.uk or www.highwayhawk.com. theve got turnouts slashcut and more, dead cheap! happy hunting john.

arless
12-04-2010, 05:32 PM
these bikes are AWESOME FAST with these few mods...it will FLY!!! for the price it costs


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05126.jpg After you cut out the holes for the air filter to breath, Did you think to block the hole between the cylinders? As that has hot air coming into the engine at all times because of its location between the cylinders.
Also I am thinking of buying a new Star V Star 950 for myself,Question are you happy with your bike? Have you had any issues with it at all? I have heard that it will out run bikes that are much larger than the 950? Also with it being air cooled does it roast your right thigh in stop and go riding? Any help with be appreciated thank you Arless

bevo1981
12-05-2010, 05:47 AM
Also I am thinking of buying a new Star V Star 950 for myself,Question are you happy with your bike? Have you had any issues with it at all? I have heard that it will out run bikes that are much larger than the 950? Also with it being air cooled does it roast your right thigh in stop and go riding? Any help with be appreciated thank you Arless

LOVE my 950. it is quick and nimble and accelerates as good as any cruiser out there. it hits highway speeds w/o coming close to redlining. it doesn't feel like it's starting to work hard until you hit 90mph. stop and go riding won't burn you, just annoy you about as much as any bike in bumper traffic and i live in central TX.

i don't know about it outrunning bikes larger than it, but mine kept pace with a Honda VTX 1300 trying to outrun me during a recent bike trip. though i have some upgrades on mine that help. haven't had any issues with mine at all yet after 16K miles

arless
12-05-2010, 08:08 PM
LOVE my 950. it is quick and nimble and accelerates as good as any cruiser out there. it hits highway speeds w/o coming close to redlining. it doesn't feel like it's starting to work hard until you hit 90mph. stop and go riding won't burn you, just annoy you about as much as any bike in bumper traffic and i live in central TX.

i don't know about it outrunning bikes larger than it, but mine kept pace with a Honda VTX 1300 trying to outrun me during a recent bike trip. though i have some upgrades on mine that help. haven't had any issues with mine at all yet after 16K miles Thanks for your email, Yea I was told that the Kawasaki 900 would out run much larger cc bikes and rider magazine done an artical comparo and the Kwacker done 0-60 in 6.2 sec. and 1/4th mile at 14.58 at 88 mph. The 950 was 0-60 in 6.0 sec. and 1/4th mile in 14.37 at 90 + rpm so that is where I got my info at. I'm going down sometime this week and test ride a new Star V Star 950. And more than likley I will purchase it afterwords since you told me that it is truly a good bike. Thanks Arless

04ctd
12-08-2010, 10:02 PM
And more than likely I will purchase it afterwords since you told me that it is truly a good bike. Thanks Arless

my wife LOVES hers. with the air box drilled out, and a pipe on it (we found an old Harley pipe that I made fit) it is too lean, and it is HOT in traffic.

i think with a tuning device on it, it will cool down.

we LOVE it, she has around 1200 miles on it.
it's a GREAT bike for the price

arless
12-08-2010, 10:23 PM
Yeah, That heat is the only draw back for me buying the V Star 950, I live in town and most of my riding will be in town and stop and go traffic. To that thinking I cannot see me on a aircooled bike here in the dawg days of summer. It gets real hot and muggy hear in Alabama. So that leaves the Kawasaki 900 classic, And the V Star 1300--- both are water cooled the Vulcan 900 is about $3,000.00 dollars cheaper than the nicer and more powerful V Star 1300. But I see them going for $7,000.00 dollars or less on flea-bay and that is a brand new 2009 V Star 1300. Its also only 48 lbs heavier than then the Kawasaki 900. Still it is approaching 800 lbs of bike to have to muscle around the city. The Kawasaki 900 classic is starting to look mighty good here. Arless

bevo1981
12-09-2010, 08:31 AM
in my opinion, giving the edge to one bike over another because it is liquid-cooled as opposed to air-cooled is not a good enough reason. your actual heat difference between the 2 with normal riding is negligible. in stop and go traffic, the air cooled will put off more heat, but you're going to still get warm with a liquid-cooled engine anyway. if you're going to be so uncomfortable in traffic with an air-cooled bike, then you're probably going to be uncomfortable with a liquid-cooled bike as well. if you have so much stop and go traffic that this is of major concern, then maybe you should be looking at a smaller bike altogether.

subbiker
12-09-2010, 08:49 AM
Having owned a liquid cooled bike (Honda VF700 Sabre), and living in North Texas, I can tell you that the only things that a Liquid cooled bike will do for you is give you the headache of concerns about coolant and hoses, as well as thermostats, fan motors, radiators, etc. If the bike has a hydraulic clutch, all bets are off. I vividly remember being caught in a traffic tie-up while riding the Honda and sitting in traffic, the hydraulic fluid got so hot that my clutch failed to disengage, the fan drained my battery and I had to push start the bike to get it running again. I ended up riding on the shoulder of the road to get past the traffic-something that is generally frowned on by LEOs.

arless
12-09-2010, 04:23 PM
that was well said about the air cooled vs liquid cooled cycles. That is a lot to think about. Reliability is another factor to rear its ugly head. For long term us I think the liquid cooling is maybe better. They both have there good and bad points I guess. I just can not see us talking about which is better. For one, The air cooled engine cannot be built with tighter tolerances like a liquid cooled bike can. And cannot have the same mods done to it that a liquid cooled motor can have. But then a liquid cooled motor can be harder to maintain. One of the best things you can do to a air cooled engine is change the oil frequently. But that also applies to liquid cooled motors also. The best thing I can do is test each one out on the street in stop and go and freeway runs a like. Then I will know which type bike will get my money. With that said happy motoring everyone arless

Fulltilt1
12-10-2010, 04:39 PM
If I scuff up a cylinder I'm going home. If I scuff up a radiator I'm probably not.

arless
12-10-2010, 05:38 PM
If I scuff up a cylinder I'm going home. If I scuff up a radiator I'm probably not. Good thought there,I have seen both the air and Liquid cooled bike engines last for a very very long time. Twenty to thirty years old and still on the same motor with nothing done to them. But maintenance air and oil changes and spark plugs and of course radiator service every five years or so. And maybe a valve adjustment after break in. I,ve seen air cooled HD's with 90 + thousand miles on the same motor and still running strong Arless

karnal
12-10-2010, 06:12 PM
Yeah, That heat is the only draw back for me buying the V Star 950, I live in town and most of my riding will be in town and stop and go traffic. To that thinking I cannot see me on a aircooled bike here in the dawg days of summer. It gets real hot and muggy hear in Alabama.

I have a liquid cooled 88 kawa 454 and an 09 950. Hands down in hot weather I'd take the 950. Why? Well, even though they're both going to be HOT in the summer, the Kawasaki blows hot air all over me at the lights. The 950 just warms me up a little bit; I'm still warmer than I want to be in the summer sun but would rather not have the heat blown all over me.

Just my two cents.

arless
12-10-2010, 06:44 PM
:)I have a liquid cooled 88 kawa 454 and an 09 950. Hands down in hot weather I'd take the 950. Why? Well, even though they're both going to be HOT in the summer, the Kawasaki blows hot air all over me at the lights. The 950 just warms me up a little bit; I'm still warmer than I want to be in the summer sun but would rather not have the heat blown all over me.

Just my two cents.:)You know I never ever thought about the fan blowing hot air all over you. You are so right and that has me again thinking about a new 950 v star. Some say it will last just as long as the liquid cooled bikes so with that, I love the way the V Star 950 l@@ks and its top end bias mill. If it will run 75--80 mph and not feel like is going to blow up with to many rpm to be comfortable. Then I think I might go ahead and get me a new black in color Star V Star 950. And or a new V Star 1300 maybe its so big and heavy though. For me here around town riding and short hops on the freeways the 950 is looking real good. How does it do with a pillion aboard. Doe's it still have enough power to ride two up OK. Thanks guy you have got me thinking again about a air cooled Yamaha. Arless

arless
12-10-2010, 09:36 PM
you know if the 1300 was not so expensive-- And heavy in weight then that might be the bike for me. But with the weight approaching 800 lbs, I can't see me trying to back in a parking spot with that much weight. So there is precious little else to choose from in the middle weight class besides the m-50 Suzuki 900 Kawasaki and and the Honda 750. So but for me the star 950 and the Kawasaki 900 are the only two I'm interested in buying

arless
12-13-2010, 11:45 PM
I have a liquid cooled 88 kawa 454 and an 09 950. Hands down in hot weather I'd take the 950. Why? Well, even though they're both going to be HOT in the summer, the Kawasaki blows hot air all over me at the lights. The 950 just warms me up a little bit; I'm still warmer than I want to be in the summer sun but would rather not have the heat blown all over me.

Just my two cents.Well I finally got me a new v star 950 at the local cycle shop. I had a choice between a red or blue or a black color bike. I got the black bike, It looked the best to me up against the chrome and flat black part of the engine. It is brand new but it is a 2009 left over from then. I got a real good deal out of the dealer plus he through in two new helmets and a leather jacket. With (midnight star) engraved on the back of the jacket. I have had it a couple of days now, last Saturday morning when I bought the bike. I am very pleased with the way it handles and the power that it has is great. I could not ask for a better bike by far the best I have ever had. I think it has enough giddy up for to last me a life time. I will not need to up grade. Thanks for all your help Arless

arless
12-14-2010, 12:05 AM
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/

we used a HUGE drill bit with a hex end on it.

gotta duct tape it all together so you can pull the drill bit back out.

ask me how i know....

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05078.jpg



http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05102.jpg


please tell me you saw this coming...the old DeadBolt install holesaw

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05117.jpg


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05125.jpgWhats up there guy, When you did your mods air and exhaust did you have to up grade your computer for air and fuel? How much HP and TQ do you think you may have gained. I've heard these bikes will out run bigger bikes with out any mods. the Kawasaki 900 was the middle weight champ until the V star come along and that bike would out run much larger motorcycles that were 1500cc to 1600cc bikes Arless

BLK RGT
12-17-2010, 01:29 PM
That may slightly increase performance but I don't like the fact that you're bypassing the air filter when drilling hole in the air filter housing.

Drilling the holes or removing a large portion of the housing toward the rear and cutting down the stand pipe inside does NOT bypass the filter. I major modded the housing after putting in a K&N element and thoroughly enjoy the throaty snarl that emanated from the housing on open throttle acceleration.

arless
12-17-2010, 07:30 PM
The Question was did you close the factory opening on the air intake the hole that pulls hot air into the throttle body between the two jugs?? That was the Question A

arless
12-17-2010, 09:17 PM
:DAfter all is said and done, I have made up my mind to get the V Star 1300, I am a big guy and my wife is also so we need a bigger bike to ride. This bike will support our weight very well, Without having to go to a monster heavy weight John Deer handling 900 lb behemoth that is hell to try to ride fast in the twisty. The middle weight star 1300 l@@ks to be about right. It will support 1100 + lbs total gross weight with riders which is perfect. Arless (ps let me know what your thoughts are thanks) A

04ctd
12-17-2010, 10:22 PM
I am a big guy and my wife is also so we need a bigger bike to ride

Without having to go to a monster heavy weight John Deer handling 900 lb behemoth that is hell to try to ride fast in the twisty.

Arless (ps let me know what your thoughts are thanks) A

?? my understanding is a Honda Goldwing has the time record through the tail of the dragon? (ABS was the key:)


in this economy, you want to get the RIGHT bike the FIRST time, because you CANNOT resell a bike now. no matter what.
you just can't resell bikes.

with that said, i would go try EVERY bike that is within 10% either way of your price range.

establish a relationship with a multi brand dealer, and take bikes for an hour ride or so.

arless
12-17-2010, 11:32 PM
?? my understanding is a Honda Goldwing has the time record through the tail of the dragon? (ABS was the key:)


in this economy, you want to get the RIGHT bike the FIRST time, because you CANNOT resell a bike now. no matter what.
you just can't resell bikes.

with that said, i would go try EVERY bike that is within 10% either way of your price range.

establish a relationship with a multi brand dealer, and take bikes for an hour ride or so.To be honest with you there is not a dealership here in Al. that will let you take a bike out and ride it for an hour! You have to almost buy the motorcycle to ride it and then it is only a mile or so with a dealer guy behind you watching your every move. I'm 56 years old and have owned a lot of motorcycles in my day. A Honda gold wing would be nice if I traveled all over the country and was willing to spend $30,000 dollars on the best bike made? Maybe the best bike made?:) I do not like the 900+ pound monster motorcycles that are all sitting on dealer show room floors for the past three to four year's. Try backing a 900+lb bike into a parking spot and worse a tilted parking spot. You will strain your guts out, I'm a weight lifter and have been all my life and I can tell you those monster bikes are not any fun. If it were just me riding alone then the 950 Star would suffice but with my wife in tow the 1300 star gets my money. At 668lbs full of fluids that's not so bad and also a price that is $6,250 OTD how could you go wrong thanks for your help but I have already done my motorcycle home work. I have also rode my neighbors V Star 1300 so I know I am in good shape thanks Arless

bevo1981
12-18-2010, 04:23 AM
:DAfter all is said and done, I have made up my mind to get the V Star 1300,

you just posted a few days ago that you bought a v star 950. what's going on here?

BLK RGT
12-18-2010, 11:19 AM
The Question was did you close the factory opening on the air intake the hole that pulls hot air into the throttle body between the two jugs?? That was the Question A:p And the answer is . . .no. I removed a bunch of plastic from the back side of the housing and am not aware of any detrimental aspects of the mod.

arless
12-18-2010, 03:44 PM
you just posted a few days ago that you bought a v star 950. what's going on here?Yes my wife and I did get a v star 950 but, found it is a little to small for two up riding at our weight. Another words we are over by far the total weight limit of the combined weight. So my wife wants to ride the 950, and I have already purchased a used 2007 V Star 1300 from the local dealer. Which is a lot more power and a little more room. Got the dealer to throw in a Sissie bar for my pillion wife. The color is blue and it's got 1,823 miles on the clock. And has feel over once, in soft asphalt with no stand pad underneath. Every biker knows to carry a piece of plywood or hard plastic in the summer to keep the bike up right. However the only damage is the left crash bar got the chrome scratched up a bit that was all I could see wrong. WE paid less than we did for the 950 being it is used so far we are very pleased with both bikes. The 1300 is liquid cooled and blows hot air all over you at stop and go in town riding when the electric fan kicks on. The 950 is hot also but not as hot as the 1300 in town. Arless

karnal
12-19-2010, 12:09 AM
To be honest with you there is not a dealership here in Al. that will let you take a bike out and ride it for an hour! You have to almost buy the motorcycle to ride it and then it is only a mile or so with a dealer guy behind you watching your every move. I'm 56 years old and have owned a lot of motorcycles in my day.

I'm 35 years old (a few days from 36) - just got my temps about 45 days before I bought my 950. The dealership was a little squeamish about letting me test drive it, but they knew I was pretty much set on buying it so they looked the other way as I rode it for about 5 miles. Purchased from Mid Ohio in Mount Vernon, Ohio. I have a feeling that they would have let me go a lot longer; however my wife was back at the dealership and I didn't want to leave her sitting for that long!!!!

arless
12-19-2010, 02:08 AM
I'm 35 years old (a few days from 36) - just got my temps about 45 days before I bought my 950. The dealership was a little squeamish about letting me test drive it, but they knew I was pretty much set on buying it so they looked the other way as I rode it for about 5 miles. Purchased from Mid Ohio in Mount Vernon, Ohio. I have a feeling that they would have let me go a lot longer; however my wife was back at the dealership and I didn't want to leave her sitting for that long!!!!Good stuff, I wish you all the best with your new ride, As you break it in you will notice that it has power to run with much larger bikes on the street. And will give 1100cc to 1600cc bikes fits from red light to red light. I run a old 88 ci Harley about 1340cc motor, He got me off the line but I came around him from the mid range on up. You will also find the motor will rev all the way out before it starts to fade off. From bottom to top end it has it all and the gearing is perfect. With the 5Th gear a real over drive. Happy motoring Arless

karnal
12-19-2010, 11:09 AM
Good stuff, I wish you all the best with your new ride, As you break it in you will notice that it has power to run with much larger bikes on the street. And will give 1100cc to 1600cc bikes fits from red light to red light. I run a old 88 ci Harley about 1340cc motor, He got me off the line but I came around him from the mid range on up. You will also find the motor will rev all the way out before it starts to fade off. From bottom to top end it has it all and the gearing is perfect. With the 5Th gear a real over drive. Happy motoring Arless

Oh yeah; I've put 2000+ miles on it since August when I bought it. Took a Motorcycle Safety Course here in Ohio and passed the test with a 0 score (no points off!) - I really enjoy it!

arless
12-19-2010, 02:00 PM
Oh yeah; I've put 2000+ miles on it since August when I bought it. Took a Motorcycle Safety Course here in Ohio and passed the test with a 0 score (no points off!) - I really enjoy it!Glade you got your test with no points off. Are you happy with the performance of the machine? I like how it runs at 75--80 mph with no sweat at all. My old Kawasaki 900 classic 2007 model, at 70-75 mph I would try to find another gear the gearing is not right in 1st or between 4Th and 5th on the Kawasaki 900. It was no fun to ride at cruising speed. Apparently out of it's power band. Oh it would run though, but the new star 950 is a tad bit Quicker, Plus more relaxed rpm at 75--85 mph Ride safe and a Merry Christmas to you and your family, I'm glad you are happy with your new bike God Bless :)Arless

karnal
12-20-2010, 12:42 PM
Glade you got your test with no points off. Are you happy with the performance of the machine? I like how it runs at 75--80 mph with no sweat at all. My old Kawasaki 900 classic 2007 model, at 70-75 mph I would try to find another gear the gearing is not right in 1st or between 4Th and 5th on the Kawasaki 900. It was no fun to ride at cruising speed. Apparently out of it's power band. Oh it would run though, but the new star 950 is a tad bit Quicker, Plus more relaxed rpm at 75--85 mph Ride safe and a Merry Christmas to you and your family, I'm glad you are happy with your new bike God Bless :)Arless

I would love to see a cruising gear on the 950; it seems like it could use lower RPMs when doing 65+mph if you're not worried about getting on the throttle and having the speed jump right away; however in 5th running 75-80 real speed the thing doesn't feel wound out. It has room to keep going. I've not gone faster on the bike; part of it is not wanting a ticket (lol) and the other part is I don't see any reason to tempt fate not having something as substantial around me like a car is. I really considered a Kawasaki 900 but didn't actually test one; found this 950 decked out with accessories and couldn't pass it up. It was the only bike I tested (I had rode around on a friend's 650 prior) but I was hooked after a 5 mile test ride!

I have yet to do performance mods (other than drilling out the exhaust.) Money is tight right now, maybe a year or so and grab one of the Cobra fuel managers and get the intake breathing better....

arless
12-20-2010, 01:19 PM
I would love to see a cruising gear on the 950; it seems like it could use lower RPMs when doing 65+mph if you're not worried about getting on the throttle and having the speed jump right away; however in 5th running 75-80 real speed the thing doesn't feel wound out. It has room to keep going. I've not gone faster on the bike; part of it is not wanting a ticket (lol) and the other part is I don't see any reason to tempt fate not having something as substantial around me like a car is. I really considered a Kawasaki 900 but didn't actually test one; found this 950 decked out with accessories and couldn't pass it up. It was the only bike I tested (I had rode around on a friend's 650 prior) but I was hooked after a 5 mile test ride!

I have yet to do performance mods (other than drilling out the exhaust.) Money is tight right now, maybe a year or so and grab one of the Cobra fuel managers and get the intake breathing better....

You think the rpm is high above 65 mph! My Vulcan 900 is really high and out of its power band. You can take the intake cover off and either drill some holes on either side of the cover or punch two large holes in either side of the filter cover. If you drill out each side you will need a lot of holes to flow the air. If you cut circles out each side you need to make them silver dollar size or larger. Have you had the cover of yet? If so you will notice that the air comes in between the two cylinders on the stock set up. After your mods you need to block the hole of the original intake hole between the cylinders. Reason is when the engine is hot it sucks hot air into the motor from that stock opening. Add a K&N filter and your ready to go without buying a fuel manager. The stock computer will adjust to the air flow and exhaust mods so save your money. You can do this at home without spending any money if you for go the K&N filter it's about $60.00 dollars or so can't remember? You are going to hear the intake when you twist the throttle after the mods. And you will really feel the difference. You think it's fast now you wait till you let it breath, It will fly afterwards. In my opinion you bought the right bike it has more advanced electronics, and it is faster from the mid range on up. Where the Kawasaki is faster at low rpms Arless

bevo1981
12-20-2010, 05:11 PM
I would love to see a cruising gear on the 950; it seems like it could use lower RPMs when doing 65+mph if you're not worried about getting on the throttle and having the speed jump right away

you should speak with BLK RGT. he stays in 3rd until he hits 90. i would never do this to my bike.


...your ready to go without buying a fuel manager. The stock computer will adjust to the air flow and exhaust mods so save your money.

your computer can't accurately adjust to the extra amount of air you're introducing. you could end up making your bike run lean because of this. i would highly recommend adding a fuel processor if you do anything to change the amount of air going through your intake. you'll get more power, make it more efficient, and it will run better through the gears because you'll be getting the correct air/fuel ratio.

arless
12-20-2010, 08:16 PM
you should speak with BLK RGT. he stays in 3rd until he hits 90. i would never do this to my bike.It's not a sport bike and it has enough torque to run without breaking the motor. That's nuts get a sport bike and then do 100 mph in second gear??!!




your computer can't accurately adjust to the extra amount of air you're introducing. you could end up making your bike run lean because of this. i would highly recommend adding a fuel processor if you do anything to change the amount of air going through your intake. you'll get more power, make it more efficient, and it will run better through the gears because you'll be getting the correct air/fuel ratio.What do you think the computer does all the time the bike is running?? Adjusting the fuel ratio through the fuel injectors. The fuel injectors have a built in margin for extra fuel needed for heavy loads, temperature, the amount of throttle opening And when the bike starts up and runs. If its table top smooth and has no hiccups at all and runs so much better than before. Then you are good to go. The aftermarket kits are fine for engines that run wrong erratic idling and surging on the road like you are slightly opening the throttle and slightly closing the throttle When your not doing anything.then you have a problem with the air fuel system-- check your spark plugs, and if they are grey white on the tip then and only then do you need a fuel compensator. These people who sell these things are in the business to make money no matter what. When I first started using one of those so called fuel compensator's with my Kawasaki 900 I gained nothing and lost fuel mileage by a bunch. Went down to the local calibration shop that sells the dam thing and still not one extra horsepower gained. So unless you have trouble with starting or Idling or surging then leave it the hell alone and buy some tasty handle bar risers, or a sissy bar for the wife- Custom paint?? Now hold on here big fella, now this I will agree does not work for every type of motorcycle. Some motorcycles are in need of a new exhaust sensor to respond to the extra air and fuel, exhaust of the motor. But still not a fuel management system?? I will tell you if I had my motor built to the max, then I might buy a fuel management system but only then. Some may disagree but all I can say is find out the hard way like I did and spend needless $$$$$$ the exhaust sensors are expensive to replace but a more sensitive sensor will in fact do the job without the fuel management system save your money save your money. Like I said if it idles the same acts the same but runs like a stripped ape then save your money Arless

arless
12-22-2010, 10:59 PM
these bikes are AWESOME FAST with these few mods...it will FLY!!! for the price it costs


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05126.jpgYes how much did it cost to do the two mods? And does it run smooth after the mods. Or are you looking for a power commander or something? I think that the computer will adjust to the two mods without spending the big money for the said P C. Also does it run hot after the mods? thanks :)

BLK RGT
12-23-2010, 12:06 AM
[QUOTE=bevo1981;16224]you should speak with BLK RGT. he stays in 3rd until he hits 90. i would never do this to my bike.

I did that to show a cager that his little toy car wasn't fast enough to prevent me from passing when I wanted to (I never ask their permission!). I found out what the bike can do when it's called upon and also that the rev limiter is soft and smooth, totally unlike the H-D limiter that shuts you down and the engine jumps and misses. remember that the factory put the red line in therebelow the grenade point of the engine.:D:eek:

BLK RGT
12-23-2010, 12:19 AM
For the record, guys, I do 90% of my riding between 50 and 70 mph. I utterly dislike freeways and consider the 950 purrrrrfect for cruising. That's probably why I have my Night Train for sale. The 88 inch twin cam was modified - cams, air cleaner and pipes with a PCIII set on the dyno at 14.2 / 1 air/fuel ratio across the board. Good mileage and great performance. Never go leaner than that unless you have a water cooled engine. I ain't as young as I used to was, so the 950 is easier to get on and off and a most comfortable ride. All the Harley freaks i know can't believe I switched, but they haven't tried my ride yet. And, I can keep up with them all day long and leave them behind at the gas stations. Life is good!

arless
12-23-2010, 01:26 AM
:eek::confused:[QUOTE=bevo1981;16224]you should speak with BLK RGT. he stays in 3rd until he hits 90. i would never do this to my bike.

I did that to show a cager that his little toy car wasn't fast enough to prevent me from passing when I wanted to (I never ask their permission!). I found out what the bike can do when it's called upon and also that the rev limiter is soft and smooth, totally unlike the H-D limiter that shuts you down and the engine jumps and misses. remember that the factory put the red line in therebelow the grenade point of the engine.:D:eek:I think I will add a tach to my bike and find out where in each gear the limiter kicks in and then set the tach about 500 rpm below the limiter until I find the best pulling torque without running the engine to high and losing speed, and find the sweet spot in each gear that pulls like crazy in ever gear and I do not wast any speed by revving past the Power point.where the engines most power is at and not rev the engine but around 500 rpm above the sweet spot in each gear as to get the sweet spot to the next gear without losing momentum from eighter under revving the mill or over revving the mill. And then go to the 1/4th mile drag strip and check where it runs the best in each gear and mark the tach for the red light to come on at the right rpm for each gear now I finally said what I have been trying to say for the last three pages

bevo1981
12-23-2010, 03:42 AM
What do you think the computer does all the time the bike is running?? Adjusting the fuel ratio through the fuel injectors.

actually, it's doing this under Yamaha's specifications. when you put holes in your airbox or change out Yamaha's parts with after market, you're changing the bike's specifications and the ECU can't make the accurate adjustments to give the the best or most efficient performance.

maybe putting holes in the airbox is a small enough difference that you don't need a fuel processor, but if you put in a free flow exhaust and an after market air kit, i would HIGHLY RECOMMEND a fuel processor for this bike because you're completely changing the air/fuel ratio and how your engine performs. the ECU will not be able to compensate well enough for the changes; Yamaha didn't engineer it for that. if you're not changing anything on your bike, then you probably won't see any benefit from a fuel processor.

getting a fuel processor on a fuel injected bike is the equivalent to rejetting the needles on a bike that has a carburetor. ask anyone on here why they have rejetted their bike.

i don't know what all you did to your other bike, but if you're introducing more air to your engine, you want to add more fuel to go with it or else you're robbing your bike of potential HP. air + fuel = power. maybe the air holes make a small enough difference that you're not gonna need anything else.

arless
12-23-2010, 04:07 AM
the exhaust flapper does the low end back pressure same as with the stock mufflers and the smog sinsor that is changed a head of the mufflers is more sensitive to exhaust air than the stock sensor so that allows the engine to get the correct amount of air fuel without spending almost a thousand dollars for one of those kits

bevo1981
12-23-2010, 09:51 AM
i didn't understand hardly any of your post. what flapper? what smog sensor? what sensors are being changed? what kit costs anywhere close to $1k?

what i gather from your posts is that you are overestimating what your bike's ECU can actually do. yes it is supposed to adjust fuel/air mixtures while you're riding. but again, it is designed to do this under Yamaha's pre-programmed bike specifications. anything you change on your bike, including drilling holes in your airbox, will not be accurately recognized by the stock computer settings.

newer bikes that use closed loop systems are typically set to a lean mixture from the factory, meaning they are getting more air than they need or can effectively use. with your mod, you're now putting in more air than your bike was designed to use. your ECU is not going to adjust nearly as well as just about any after market fuel processor. it's up to you to decide if you want one or can do w/o, but just don't live under the assumption that your ECU is God-like and will just magically handle any changes you throw at it.

also, most fuel processors can be found in the $200-$300 range

BLK RGT
12-23-2010, 12:24 PM
also, most fuel processors can be found in the $200-$300 range[/QUOTE]

After you add installation and calibration the cost WILL escalate. The PCIII works at peak with a dyno setting download (the USB port is used for that), and, if an ECU will compensate from sea level to high mountain pass elevations it should compensate for most moderate changes in equipment.;)

arless
12-23-2010, 12:30 PM
you know the oxygen sensor that is located in front of the muffler?? They sell oxygen sensors that are much more sensitive than the stock sensor that came on the bike. OK the sport bikes have a flapper valve in the exhaust that is closed at idle and gradually opens as you open the throttle. You need some back pressure at the low to mid range rpm speed so the air and fuel will not escape out the exhaust and it will allow the mill to burn more of the fuel. At higher rpm the valve opens all the way up in the exhaust because at that high rpm the engine does not have time to loose the air fuel out the exhaust. (Or some call it reversion)There for, making the mill more efficient. They do that to sport bikes because they have no low end and mid range power until 4500 - 5000 rpm. The valve has a tremendous affect on performance. I do not know how else to explain it to you?The only difference is the valve that blocks the exhaust opening is computer controlled on the sport bike. And spring controlled on the home made v star exhaust set up. The exhaust oxygen sensor that is replaced is more sensitive to exhaust flow and will richen up the mixture the same way the store bought fuel system will. And yes you can spend upwards of a thousand dollars on a quality air fuel system. The computer controller will cost almost $600.00 dollars for a good one and another $250.00 dollars for the oxygen sinsor. And a shift controlled meter for the air fuel to be different for each gear selected while riding the bike for the best ratio of air fuel possible for each gear chosen. For the ultimate performance. And like I said I do not know how else to explain it??

bevo1981
12-23-2010, 05:44 PM
After you add installation and calibration the cost WILL escalate.

most of the ones i have seen are plug-n-play and don't require any professional install or calibration. you can spend $400 on a processor and then get it installed and tuned by a pro for about $100 more, or you can find one for about $150 that you can install and tune yourself without the need of any computer. it just depends on what you want out of it.

arless
12-23-2010, 05:44 PM
Finally someone has the knowledge about the ecu and the fuel injector plus. If the system was as close as they say, then even an air filter change would kill the motor. I know that there is a large enough compensator built into the fuel injection system. If it were not then the company that builds the motors would have all kind of problem's. Almost everyone that I have talked to, has told me that they are getting much better gas mileage after the install of a after market fuel regulator?? Now that does not equate to a lean air fuel mixture> But quite the contrary?? People must understand about the length of the pulse that the fuel injector has to compensate for the as you said fuel air at sea level, and at high altitude. If the injector pulse is maxed out for fuel flow then most people change to a larger fuel injector// to compensate the difference. And that would require a lot more mods than an air and exhaust mod to change the size of the fuel injectors. I have been a motorcycle mechanic for 40+ years and I see it all the time that people go out and spend big money and are very disappointed at the results of the performance. I will say it again(Quote If the bike cranks up and idles as it did before the two mods--you are OK, If not Then change the oxygen sensor to a more sensitive sensor?? That will cost you a good $200.00 dollars in it's self. Yes they are proud of there plug in sensors!! for that kind of money They charge. The camshafts on a sohc v twin engine cannot close the exhaust at a more precise index like a dohc sport bike can. Never the less in a gasoline motor with a camshaft, the lower or it could be the higher rpm where you have reversion either through the intake? or even as far as the air filter at lower rpm or high rpm with sport bikes. That is why the sport bikes have a computer controlled exhaust valve built into the exhaust. It will hold some back pressure in the exhaust at lower rpm and mid rpm so the mill will not kick out the unburned air fuel out the exhaust as fast, Which increases low to mid range torque and horsepower the best of both worlds. If you guy's are perfectly honest, you will admit that after you opened or gutted the exhaust, that your bike lost its response at low rpm's? And then comes on like gangbusters at upper mid to high rpm's. I've seen it all the time, it's called disappointment from the time and money spent on mods that do not work?? When you open up the motor to breath in and breath out you have to compensate the exhaust pressure to get back the low end to low mid range again. I will stop here. I do not know everything, and i do not pretend to. every engine is different, and the needs are different, even in the same manufacture, the new for 2010 v star 950 for example will have upgrades to the ecu system as electronic,s improve. the company will pass it on to there production bikes cars or what ever. It's a fight for the best possible motorcycles made and that my friends is the Yamaha star motorcycles. They are bullet proof engines and transmission's in all the star bikes. You do not have to believe me, but check the mechanic,s the next time you go for a tune up. Unless he is bias then he should tell you the truth. That the Yamaha star v twin engines and transmissions are the best there is borrow none

bevo1981
12-23-2010, 06:14 PM
you know the oxygen sensor that is located in front of the muffler?? They sell oxygen sensors that are much more sensitive than the stock sensor that came on the bike. OK the sport bikes have a flapper valve in the exhaust that is closed at idle and gradually opens as you open the throttle. You need some back pressure at the low to mid range rpm speed so the air and fuel will not escape out the exhaust and it will allow the mill to burn more of the fuel. At higher rpm the valve opens all the way up in the exhaust because at that high rpm the engine does not have time to loose the air fuel out the exhaust. (Or some call it reversion)There for, making the mill more efficient. They do that to sport bikes because they have no low end and mid range power until 4500 - 5000 rpm. The valve has a tremendous affect on performance. I do not know how else to explain it to you?The only difference is the valve that blocks the exhaust opening is computer controlled on the sport bike. And spring controlled on the home made v star exhaust set up. The exhaust oxygen sensor that is replaced is more sensitive to exhaust flow and will richen up the mixture the same way the store bought fuel system will. And yes you can spend upwards of a thousand dollars on a quality air fuel system. The computer controller will cost almost $600.00 dollars for a good one and another $250.00 dollars for the oxygen sinsor. And a shift controlled meter for the air fuel to be different for each gear selected while riding the bike for the best ratio of air fuel possible for each gear chosen. For the ultimate performance. And like I said I do not know how else to explain it??

i think we've come to an impasse here and we should just agree to disagree. more than half of your post has absolutely nothing to do with what we were talking about. flapper on a sports bike? has nothing to do with the ECU on our cruisers. nothing. and nobody is talking about changing out the O2 sensor. there's no need to do so on our cruisers and has nothing to do with adding a fuel processor. and you haven't spent much time looking at fuel processors online. many consider the Power Commander to be the top of the line and it is only $300. and 30 seconds of searching online will lead you to about half a dozen decent ones in the $200 range. and i'm sure most if not all will give you a significant improvement over your ECU.

from personal experience, i have the Cobra Fi2000R O2 fuel processor. it's not top of the line but it suits me perfect for what i want to and have done with my bike. it cost me $200, i installed it myself in under half an hour and i'm not a mechanic. it requires no computer and no professional tuning. i added it when i added an LA Choppers air kit. just using the stock settings on the device (they dyno tune all their processors at their factory to your bike's specific model) saw a significant increase in performance and it would be months later before i even changed out my pipes. i have adjusted the device myself a few times over the past several months and have seen increase in performance when i add more fuel for either cruising or acceleration, so the fine tuning is noticeable. the thing works and i think it works pretty well since the changes i make are easily noticeable.

decide for yourself if you want or need one, but they are not as expensive as you think, not as complex a process as you think, and they do a helluva lot more than your ECU can ever do. i'm done on this subject.

arless
12-23-2010, 09:15 PM
then you fix up your ride and I will fix up my ride, and we will see who makes the horsepower!! Brother, there is always someone who thinks they have the ultimate set up for $200.00 and they installed and tuned it there selves and picked up performance and have alot better gas mileage than before? you know how many times I have heard that? very same statement. You apparently do not understand what you are trying to accomplish here. I will say it again every-ones package is different and if you believe that you have made a big difference in power then so be it. I'm not gonna get in a pissing contest with anyone. So please if you can justify your spending the money and made all that power? where is your test and tune proof? I bet big money that After you have done your thing, and I have a completely stock bike and we were in town riding and stopped at a red light and we both twisted the throttle, I would build more torque off the line and more bottom mid range than your $200.00 dollar quick fix. The Yamaha Star people spent a hee of a lot of money on the right intake system and a hell of alot on the exhaust system and if you do not keep the order in tune then you have accomplished nothing?When you do anything to a engine you test and tune it on a dyno--- you dyno a completely stock bike first and foremost to get a base line test + or - 5% factor on the dyno corrected to sea level. Then and only then do you add one thing at a time, and you get the most you can out of the first thing you add on the bike. Then you read your spark plugs or if you have a diagnostic computer it will tell you your air fuel ratio. and 12.1 is about the best air fuel ratio for performance. I have data to back up what i am saying? I have 1/4th mile time slips to prove the facts.You cannot have the best of both worlds you do not understand what i am saying, that is why you would want to agree to disagree, That is fine with me. You know more than a trained mechanic that deals with race bike and everything in between. Make sure that you have data to prove what you are saying. And do not mistake seat of the pants riding and come back and say it is alot faster when all it is, is the bike has a flat spot in it and then hits the power curve and blows you back in the seat and you think you have more power? and you don't. Oh I have seen that all the time, A guy comes in and he has bought all this expensive power commander and processor and the hole nine yards, and all he has done is opened up the air flow a little and gutted the exhaust. Now he claims the bike gets alot better gas mileage than before? now you know more than the mechanics so you tell the world why the bike gets a lot better gas mileage. Can't wait to get your post. And don't be fooled the people that do magazine adds get paid to advertise the power commanders and ECU up grade and everything in between. All I will say is you have to have data to not be fooled into thinking you have more power? sure you do but where is that power at? high in the rpm range? And did you loose low end and mid-range torque and horsepower at the expense of a little more top end power? All I'm saying is don't be fooled by the seat of the pants riding. And the exhaust power valve is the best thing ever on high end cruisers also. That the computer controlls opening and closing Of the flapper valve. And at least know what your talking about and back it up. That's why you say Quote that I was not even talking about the main post? It shows in your post tha t you are confused you posted you were. Dude have a great Christmas and we will agree to disagree. Remember I have seen it all for years now good day. Oh i will say it one more time Quote( IF YOU ONLY CHANGE THE AIR FLOW ON A STOCK BIKE INTAKE AND EXHAUST AND THE MOTOR IDLES AND RUNS SMOOTH THEN YOU ARE DONE WITH THE TUNE)

farmalldanzil
12-23-2010, 09:28 PM
That's why I got me a Yamaha, so I wouldn't have too work on it.

BLK RGT
12-24-2010, 01:08 PM
Sgt. Joe Friday, LAPD, "Just the facts. maam." (Dragnet)

:mad:The rider who thinks he can out think a computer by buying a cheap controller and making a few adjustments to it and get great results is delusional. Someone will always make cheap stuff for the inept and they will buy it. A PC III properly programmed by the dyno's computer will give you EXACT results (like a 14.2:1 air fuel ratio across the board) and a motor that runs, quite simply, flawlessly. :)

No one can do that with three little adjusting potentiometers without, as the manufacturer says in the fine print, ride it and test it. And do it again and again until you convince yourself that you got it "just right". The dyno check verifies all pertinent data at each 10% stage of throttle from idle to wide open. Try doing that with a screwdriver by guess and by gosh.:eek:

"You can pay me now or you can pay me later."
I trust my independent V Twin mechanic. He is a friend as well as a business man who guarantees and stands behind his work. It's far less expensive to pay the man with equipment and experience to do it right the first time than to replace a motor that fried from lean burn or buy 20% more fuel than you need and change plugs every month.:confused:

Here in Oregon we are enjoying the typical wet winter, so if you happen to live in a dry state, RIDE ON!:D:cool:

arless
12-24-2010, 03:14 PM
Blah blah blah go tell it to someone who also spent too much money and only gained power from the air and exhaust mods. All your friend did is get your fuel mixture back to factory setting's just like it came from the factory don't believe take it to the drags and run it and then unplug the power bull s--t and you will not have gained anything or may you did when you set it back to the factory ECU Now I'm done with this lets move on. 14to one is a lean mixture which has to be to pass gov. regulations. The ideal air fuel mixture is 12 to 1. Why do you think you gained fuel mileage from your install. I'm done with this

bevo1981
12-24-2010, 05:02 PM
:mad:The rider who thinks he can out think a computer by buying a cheap controller and making a few adjustments to it and get great results is delusional. Someone will always make cheap stuff for the inept and they will buy it. A PC III properly programmed by the dyno's computer will give you EXACT results (like a 14.2:1 air fuel ratio across the board) and a motor that runs, quite simply, flawlessly. :)

No one can do that with three little adjusting potentiometers without, as the manufacturer says in the fine print, ride it and test it. And do it again and again until you convince yourself that you got it "just right". The dyno check verifies all pertinent data at each 10% stage of throttle from idle to wide open. Try doing that with a screwdriver by guess and by gosh.:eek:

"You can pay me now or you can pay me later."
I trust my independent V Twin mechanic. He is a friend as well as a business man who guarantees and stands behind his work. It's far less expensive to pay the man with equipment and experience to do it right the first time than to replace a motor that fried from lean burn or buy 20% more fuel than you need and change plugs every month.:confused:

well i'm gonna assume that you're talking about someone else's posts, because it definitely doesn't look like a response to mine, kinda like arless' posts went off on tangents that had nothing to do with me or my responses.

but just in case you are, how do i think i can outsmart a computer? i'm adding a computer to a computer. and just making small adjustments with the 3 pots does produce noticeable results. sometimes better, sometimes worse. it's part of the fine tuning process if i want to see if i can get better acceleration with this adjustment or better gas mileage with that adjustment and so forth. and mine is not a 'cheap' one just because it's not the top of the line. it would be a 'cheap' one if it didn't do anything. you think only one fuel processor on the entire market is any good? that's asinine. the fuel processor i chose comes from a very well respected and established company Cobra that matches each of their processors to be bike specific. hence, it's already been dyno'd before the customer ever puts in on their bike. so what if it's not as accurate as the PC III. i don't give a shit because i didn't want to spend 2X or 3X as much to be just a little bit more accurate.

and i'm not proclaiming that i or anyone else has the 'ultimate setup' or that my engine now runs 'flawlessly' as you two seem to think i'm implying. all i ever stated was that adding a fuel processor does improve your engine performance if you upgrade it or mod it so that you're now putting more air into the bike. if you disagree with this, then go do some research and ask a professional because this is the way it is for the V Star 950. this model bike comes from the factory with a lean setting. you add more air to it, and guest what? IT'S NOW EVEN MORE LEAN. and you say a PC III is a wonder drug that will now make your bike perfect, but any other processor is worthless, or excuse me, 'cheap'. that's asinine.

and i don't have to get my bike dyno'd to know that i've seen immediate improvements when i upgraded my bike. i ride every single day. the results are obvious even if i don't have diagrams and flowcharts and a $150 receipt from the shop to prove it to you. so what if it's not 'flawless'. i never claimed it was. i just said that it was an improvement. i'm getting exactly what i want out of my processor and love the fact that i can adjust it myself whenever i want and see what kind of results it gives me. it works and i have fun with it so it's definitely worth it for me so you can't sit there and tell me what it does and doesn't do if you have no experience with the device and i do.

who is changing plugs every month? who's getting better gas mileage? how are you 2 getting these conclusions from my posts? i never said anything about gas mileage, but since you guys keep bringing it up, INCORRECTLY, i'm actually getting WORSE gas mileage because of my upgrades. how is that? could it be because i'm now using more fuel than before? how is it that my bike now uses more fuel? could it be because my fuel processor is doing it? could that possibly mean that it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do?

again, i don't care how accurate my setup is or if i'm spending an extra $0.50 a week on gas. all i care is that 1)i spent less money than the PC III and shop dyno/install, 2)the improvements of my setup are obvious, and 3)i have fun with it. and i doubt i'm doing any damage to my engine by running MORE fuel to it, not LESS

BLK RGT: if your post wasn't in response to any of mine, then just disregard this, but it's pretty apparent to me that it was. and if you take nothing else away from my post, take this: if anyone sees improvements in their upgrades and enjoys their bikes and has fun with the whole process without breaking the bank, i think that matters more than any test scores done by a shop.

arless: maybe you should sit the next couple rounds out because you seem lost. you don't know what power i've gained and i have no intention of ever taking my bike to the dragstrip.

farmalldanzil
12-24-2010, 06:10 PM
So does anybody now of some good MODIFICATION for the 950 V-STAR?

arless
12-24-2010, 10:49 PM
well i'm gonna assume that you're talking about someone else's posts, because it definitely doesn't look like a response to mine, kinda like arless' posts went off on tangents that had nothing to do with me or my responses.

but just in case you are, how do i think i can outsmart a computer? i'm adding a computer to a computer. and just making small adjustments with the 3 pots does produce noticeable results. sometimes better, sometimes worse. it's part of the fine tuning process if i want to see if i can get better acceleration with this adjustment or better gas mileage with that adjustment and so forth. and mine is not a 'cheap' one just because it's not the top of the line. it would be a 'cheap' one if it didn't do anything. you think only one fuel processor on the entire market is any good? that's asinine. the fuel processor i chose comes from a very well respected and established company Cobra that matches each of their processors to be bike specific. hence, it's already been dyno'd before the customer ever puts in on their bike. so what if it's not as accurate as the PC III. i don't give a shit because i didn't want to spend 2X or 3X as much to be just a little bit more accurate.

and i'm not proclaiming that i or anyone else has the 'ultimate setup' or that my engine now runs 'flawlessly' as you two seem to think i'm implying. all i ever stated was that adding a fuel processor does improve your engine performance if you upgrade it or mod it so that you're now putting more air into the bike. if you disagree with this, then go do some research and ask a professional because this is the way it is for the V Star 950. this model bike comes from the factory with a lean setting. you add more air to it, and guest what? IT'S NOW EVEN MORE LEAN. and you say a PC III is a wonder drug that will now make your bike perfect, but any other processor is worthless, or excuse me, 'cheap'. that's asinine.

and i don't have to get my bike dyno'd to know that i've seen immediate improvements when i upgraded my bike. i ride every single day. the results are obvious even if i don't have diagrams and flowcharts and a $150 receipt from the shop to prove it to you. so what if it's not 'flawless'. i never claimed it was. i just said that it was an improvement. i'm getting exactly what i want out of my processor and love the fact that i can adjust it myself whenever i want and see what kind of results it gives me. it works and i have fun with it so it's definitely worth it for me so you can't sit there and tell me what it does and doesn't do if you have no experience with the device and i do.

who is changing plugs every month? who's getting better gas mileage? how are you 2 getting these conclusions from my posts? i never said anything about gas mileage, but since you guys keep bringing it up, INCORRECTLY, i'm actually getting WORSE gas mileage because of my upgrades. how is that? could it be because i'm now using more fuel than before? how is it that my bike now uses more fuel? could it be because my fuel processor is doing it? could that possibly mean that it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do?

again, i don't care how accurate my setup is or if i'm spending an extra $0.50 a week on gas. all i care is that 1)i spent less money than the PC III and shop dyno/install, 2)the improvements of my setup are obvious, and 3)i have fun with it. and i doubt i'm doing any damage to my engine by running MORE fuel to it, not LESS

BLK RGT: if your post wasn't in response to any of mine, then just disregard this, but it's pretty apparent to me that it was. and if you take nothing else away from my post, take this: if anyone sees improvements in their upgrades and enjoys their bikes and has fun with the whole process without breaking the bank, i think that matters more than any test scores done by a shop.

arless: maybe you should sit the next couple rounds out because you seem lost. you don't know what power i've gained and i have no intention of ever taking my bike to the dragstrip.And you left out all that gas mileage you've saved buy leaning your fuel ratio out to dangerous levels as well. I am done with you . And since you know more than the people that develop the motorcycle then you are like a God sent angle to all of us who according to you quote Don't know shit. But you say I have bought this and its not no high price computer on top of a computer, and your little two things and your screw driver will not get the job done right? You know more than a race bike modifier that I also done for years and years. And Oh yeah computer controlled air shifted fuel injected all out drag race motors from Harley Davidson to Yamaha Star big bore machines. And broke more records racing with me building and tuning the engines for each round of competition, Than I care to remember. Now you have bought a computer on top of a computer so now you have three total computers? Why not go buy another four or five computers and processors and oxygen sensors and buy Hugh saddle bags to store all your electronics in your saddle bags because if you change the air intake and exhaust opening you will burn up the motor without buying all this middle of the road computer stuff! just because it is out there and for sale. You don't have a clue at what you are doing. You have a stock motor and stock transmission and you now have spent enough money to put a down payment on a new house and have gained absolutely nothing! but a hole in your pocket. Don't you get it yet! I have been there and done that I know what the hell works and what does not work. I'm through talking to you because you are hell bent on thinking you know everything and all the mechanics and engine builders and computer electronics don't know nothing but you do. You will find out the hard way, which I think you probley have done all your life. Are we cross? Cause if I thought you were not my friend anymore, I don't think I could bare it?. Now I hope we can be blood brothers again. I'm through with trying to tell your d-m a-s any thing enough said. You do not know enough about electronics to know what works and what does not work. These people who sell this stuff are after your money and my money if they can get. Go build a high dollar race engine with 14.5:1 compression 100 mm throttle bodies, and Luna fuel injector's.A forged steel crankshaft with lightening holes in the crankshaft with aluminum rods - forged aluminum pistons that are almost skirt-less.With no oil rings. bearing and piston coatings, cylinder head ported and polished to the max along with the largest titanium valves that can fit in the head, and roller cams and roller rocker arms. Velasco jet valve springs, titanium and carbon fiber and plastic frame mounted electronics on a aluminum lightened frame. a computer controlled air shifter, computer controlled throttle bodies and computer controlled air fuel mixture that adjust differently to every gear change. A data processor. A header power valve, some times two power valves 2 1/4th inch equal length headers with custom length collector for ultimate hp and torque for each track you are racing at. When you come to me with a motor like that. that turns upwards of 1300 rpm. then come to me and I will make good use of your computer on top of computer on top of computer. Enough said don't get caught up. I am through with the conversation OK! I'm through with this subject. Go tell your story to someone who will think you know it all about how to buy all this s--t you have bought for you big racing stock motorcycle you have at home. That you opened up to breath a little better. Maybe you can find someone who will have sympathy for your lost a-s. And learn how to spell your words before you type or get a spell check to help you out good by Brother:eek::cool::mad: Oh I know what we can do lets have a spelling contest and see who wins let me know if you are interested

Tonydtiger1971
12-25-2010, 11:09 PM
I do not like having to tell everyone that I'm bipolar, and I have ADD. And some brain damage from an accident from a wreck years ago. So if I sound crazy typing this post then you are right I am crazy. And can not help that, But do not feel sorry for me though, I am not looking for sympathy from anyone. At least I know I'm not all there, That's better than some people that are brain damaged and say there not. They end up in the crazy house. But enough about me. Merry Christmas to all you motorcycle snobs out there that love a radial engine. Air cooled for the people that do not know what a radial engine is:)

Radial I know, what's air cooled?

arless
12-26-2010, 02:00 AM
Radial I know, what's air cooled?

That my friend is what a radial engine is! A Air cooled mill. That's what makes the radial engine a radial engine-- for us motorcycle snobs. Yamaha knows that, and that's why they make air cooled motorcycles. At least in the 650 950 to 1100 to 1700 and 1900cc mills. With one or two exceptions the v star 1300 and stryker and the royal star all are water cooled. Along with some of the dirt bikes that run in competition

Fulltilt1
12-26-2010, 10:56 AM
Well actually a "Radial" engine just has its cylinders arranged in a circle around the crankshaft. While most "Radial" engines are air cooled, they don't necessarily have to be. The Earliest V-Twins are just parts of radial aircraft engines, just as the "Boxer" (Horizontally Opposed) engines in BMW's are also parts of aircraft engines.

arless
12-26-2010, 10:20 PM
I'm going to agree with you on this one. He is still making no sense. From the posts I've read it looks like he is trying to insult and harass everyone on here.

Chill out man, manual adjustment or dyno'ed by a mechanic, whatever you're heart desires, express the opinion and move on.

Right now I'm happy with the stock setup for the gas mileage.Well someone has the right Ideal. The bike has more than enough power to get you there in a hurry.and will out run most cars on the road and most cruisers also. 0-60 in 6 sec. flat and a 1/4th mile time of 14.38 at 99.87 miles per hour. Run through the gears and you will be looking at 100 mph in no time. And 47+ mpg. That simply cannot be beat. That was with a 180 lb rider so as you know the weight will change the times a little smart thinking

arless
12-27-2010, 12:15 AM
Arless did you take your meds today? You're not making much sense...

My 950 will out run your 1100 shaft drive (Yow moma haw) My (yow moma haw) has already raced them there 1100's with that there SHAFT DRIVE. Its close off the line but from the mid range on up, the belt drive takes way way less motor to turn the rear tire. As compared to a shaft drive. If the 950 were shaft drive then the 1100 yamama would run off and leave the baby 950 star. That 1100cc motor is durable as hell, and Yamaha motors are bullet proof. I have worked on every thing from American made junk to almost everything else BMW and you name it. And the best Bikes on the road are the Yamaha stars. The transmissions are the smoothest out there and the engines are put together with forged steel and forged aluminum parts. Yamaha/ Star builds serious motorcycles. The suspension on Yamama bikes is the best of the crop.Anytime you can take a cruiser from Kentucky to Alabama none stop at 85-- to 100 miles per hour for hours on end only stopping for fuel and a soda then you know you have a bullet proof machine

farmalldanzil
12-29-2010, 07:49 AM
A forum HIGH, 177 + 1 post and 26,000 + views:eek:

arless
12-30-2010, 07:12 PM
Bevo, Do you now know how much money Yamaha /Star spent on getting the bike just right the intake and exhaust tuning for maximum performance? Didn't think so, We know now that the intake is responsible for most of the power up grades to this bike. Leaving the exhaust alone, And up grading the intake adds more power than with the exhaust mod. You can do the exhaust mod first and loose bottom end performance! or install a exhaust valve to gain back the back pressure. Which is so important to low end torque, And power. I would love to know if you added another computer to take up the slack of the other three computers you already have installed. And are you filling up your saddle bags with the computers and processors Oxygen sensors air shifters, Alcohol racing fuel, Tachometer, rear slick, carbon fiber birthday suit, plastic finder-ed rat racer with that totally stock engine. That has been super modified with a open air filter and a gutted exhaust. You better be sure you don't need another computer now. you might blow it up with all them mods and money you have spent.On nothing but a factory stock motorcycle. OH! do not leave out you also get much better gas mileage also with a 14to 1 lean as hell air fuel ratio that you had before you modded the rat racer. GO UN DO EVERYTRHING BUT THE INDUCTION MOD AND BE HAPPY WITH IT THAT YOU HAVE NOT FRIED A FORGED PISTON BY NOW OR HAVE YOU ALREADY DONE THAT BE BE BE, BEVOVOVOVO

arless
01-03-2011, 10:10 PM
Anyone out there have a new V star 950? 2010 or 2011? so I can have something to contrast my bike to. A comparo if you will, Checking to see if the new bikes have advanced even further with even better electronics. We heard they were about to get rid of the closed loop system, that came on my bike. And go with a speed density set up like I have already installed on my 2009 model. The closed loop system will work with most intake and exhaust mods and compensate for the air and fuel increase. The factory does install that much lead way for air fuel compensation to run at high elevation and sea level also. Thick air cold air, hot dog days of mid summer. But if you go beyond the simple air and exhaust mods, then you will need either a more sensitive oxygen sensor, or a speed density system. Which will go along way toward serious mods to the bike. Like larger throttle bodies, High lift roller cams and a equal length header. More compression and so forth. Someone out there has a new 950 thanks:D

GaryTJ
01-04-2011, 08:14 PM
Arless, The v-Star 950 comes from the factory with a Speed-Density system. And all fuel injection bikes are meant to be run in a Closed Loop operation.

Open loop is when there is something wrong, or a sensor is not operational, or the motor is not up to temperature. It is a failsafe type of operation.

"Speed Density systems accept input from sensors that measure engine speed (in rpm) and load (manifold vacuum in kPa), then the computer calculates airflow requirements by referring to a much larger (in comparison to an N Alpha system) preprogrammed lookup table, a map of thousands of values that equates to the engine’s volumetric efficiency (VE) under varying conditions of throttle position and engine speed. Engine rpm is provided via a tach signal, while vacuum is transmitted via an intake manifold-mounted Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. Since air density changes with air temperature, an intake manifold-mounted sensor is also used."

That is the factory system...

arless
01-04-2011, 09:39 PM
Arless, The v-Star 950 comes from the factory with a Speed-Density system. And all fuel injection bikes are meant to be run in a Closed Loop operation.

Open loop is when there is something wrong, or a sensor is not operational, or the motor is not up to temperature. It is a failsafe type of operation.

"Speed Density systems accept input from sensors that measure engine speed (in rpm) and load (manifold vacuum in kPa), then the computer calculates airflow requirements by referring to a much larger (in comparison to an N Alpha system) preprogrammed lookup table, a map of thousands of values that equates to the engine’s volumetric efficiency (VE) under varying conditions of throttle position and engine speed. Engine rpm is provided via a tach signal, while vacuum is transmitted via an intake manifold-mounted Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. Since air density changes with air temperature, an intake manifold-mounted sensor is also used."

That is the factory system...Open loop, Mass air sensor, is all the same thing. You are confused with trouble shooting a problem with the motor. Open lupe as far as air sensors go, mean that it will not adjust to hardly any modification you give it. Or mass air system its sometimes called. Speed density Is an older system but will adjust to mods a whole lot better than a mass air sensor. A poor mans best friend or a easy save on money for your favorite scoot. The speed density is just what it says it is, It measures the speed of the air, that goes in the intake track and the density of the air also. That said, will adjust the fuel accordingly to the speed of the air and quality of the air. And you have a throttle position sinsor, A load sensor, altitude sensor all in two sensors built into the bike.You know how I know this I was a motorcycle mechanic for forty some odd years. I know the systems very very well. Plus I have raced motorcycles and broke records with my tuning all over the south and western states. I was the engine builder tuner tester. From Harley Davidson engines tuner and factory tester. to Suzuki's old air cooled Bandit 1200cc engines built for all out race motors. Back in the mid 80"s we were the first to break into the 8 second runs with a less moded motor than the class allowed. And I could go on and on. I am very aware of what you are trying to say I am just not into all the little details that you are trying to exsplain to us motorcycle snobs. We built our own fuel injection system in the 80's but never had a chance to really test it on our all out motors:D

.

arless
01-05-2011, 01:03 AM
LOVE my 950. it is quick and nimble and accelerates as good as any cruiser out there. it hits highway speeds w/o coming close to redlining. it doesn't feel like it's starting to work hard until you hit 90mph. stop and go riding won't burn you, just annoy you about as much as any bike in bumper traffic and i live in central TX.

i don't know about it outrunning bikes larger than it, but mine kept pace with a Honda VTX 1300 trying to outrun me during a recent bike trip. though i have some upgrades on mine that help. haven't had any issues with mine at all yet after 16K milesNow bevo, You said you do not know if it will out run larger motorcycles. But you out run a vtx 1300 honda? That should tell you something. I am leaving my bike stock except for a K&N air filter. The air filter is the main gain in power for a stock motorcycle. A exhaust mod will cause it to loose the bottom end performance only to gain more top end power. Which will hurt in town and stop and go performance. We have already been over all this before BBBBBevo:eek::D:confused:

GaryTJ
01-09-2011, 03:15 PM
Open loop, Mass air sensor, is all the same thing. You are confused with trouble shooting a problem with the motor.

Lets have some fun here...
Open loop is when there is a problem, or the vehicle is not up to temp. The computer is operating on default perimeters and not accepting feedback from the o2 sensor.

Mass air flow meter (sensor) is used to measure actual airflow through a curcuit by measuring temperature drop over a heated wire.

How are these the same?


Open lupe as far as air sensors go, mean that it will not adjust to hardly any modification you give it. Or mass air system its sometimes called.

You got the first part right, but calling open loop as a mass air system I have never seen and goes against all training I have received. Perhaps you could show us somewhere in writing that backs you up?

Speed density Is an older system but will adjust to mods a whole lot better than a mass air sensor. A poor mans best friend or a easy save on money for your favorite scoot.

Again, partly correct. It is an older system. But it will not adjust to modifications better as it makes assumptions of airflow based on the original mapping in the computer and that mapping is based on the engine being stock. In can make adjustments (to a point) when in closed loop because it will see feedback from the o2 sensor and respond accordingly.

Whereas the Mass airflow system is (in closed loop) measuring actual airflow into the motor. If you make modifications so that the engine flows better, the Mass airflow meter will read the increased airflow and adjust injector on time accordingly.


The speed density is just what it says it is, It measures the speed of the air, that goes in the intake track and the density of the air also. That said, will adjust the fuel accordingly to the speed of the air and quality of the air. And you have a throttle position sinsor, A load sensor, altitude sensor all in two sensors built into the bike.

Close, but not accurate. The speed density system has no way of actually measuring airflow. It uses the throttle position sensor to measure the amount that the throttle plates are open and it uses engine rpm (the speed part of the speed density name) to assume the amount of air flowing by the throttle plates at a given opening.

It uses the MAP (load sensor) to measure barometer before starting and intake vacuum when running, . Beyond that it also uses engine temperature and intake air temperature to regulate the injector on time according to the mapping in the computer.

If , for example, you were to change the throttle body out for one with more airflow it would have no way of correcting for it without a complete remapping of the computer. This system is only as accurate as the assumptions that are made by the computer.

You know how I know this I was a motorcycle mechanic for forty some odd years. I know the systems very very well. Plus I have raced motorcycles and broke records with my tuning all over the south and western states. I was the engine builder tuner tester. From Harley Davidson engines tuner and factory tester. to Suzuki's old air cooled Bandit 1200cc engines built for all out race motors. Back in the mid 80"s we were the first to break into the 8 second runs with a less moded motor than the class allowed. And I could go on and on.

I cannot comment on your experience, only on your knowledge.


I am very aware of what you are trying to say I am just not into all the little details that you are trying to exsplain to us motorcycle snobs. We built our own fuel injection system in the 80's but never had a chance to really test it on our all out motors:D

It is the little details that make you inaccurate.

Thank you for the discussion :-)

farmalldanzil
01-09-2011, 03:26 PM
Lets ride, LETS RIDE.

bevo1981
01-15-2011, 06:50 AM
cleaned up the thread, removed the recent posts that were not relevant to motorcycles and similar topics. would like to keep this thread open as long as future posts pertain to performance mods in some fashion

mole2
01-16-2011, 11:21 PM
cleaned up the thread, removed the recent posts that were not relevant to motorcycles and similar topics. would like to keep this thread open as long as future posts pertain to performance mods in some fashion

Hey...look at you...the moderator. Congratulations. At least we have someone now to keep things running smooth and keep the spam out. :D


:)

Tonydtiger1971
01-17-2011, 10:02 AM
Hey...look at you...the moderator. Congratulations. At least we have someone now to keep things running smooth and keep the spam out. :D


:)


Yes, Congratulation Bevo. Does anyone know of a mod that will help increase fuel economy without making the bike too lean?

Fulltilt1
01-17-2011, 03:35 PM
Or just drive crazy with zany requests

GaryTJ
01-17-2011, 06:22 PM
Yes, Congratulation Bevo. Does anyone know of a mod that will help increase fuel economy without making the bike too lean?

If fuel economy is the primary issue, leave it stock. The computer does a great job as long as it is all OEM.

If you start modifying things you can cause it to run leaner, which will actually decrease economy.

The 950 does a great job on economy right from the factory. it's economy is about the same as a bike 1/2 it's size from 5 years ago.

Tonydtiger1971
01-17-2011, 08:11 PM
If fuel economy is the primary issue, leave it stock. The computer does a great job as long as it is all OEM.

If you start modifying things you can cause it to run leaner, which will actually decrease economy.

The 950 does a great job on economy right from the factory. it's economy is about the same as a bike 1/2 it's size from 5 years ago.

I know it's my age but it still amazes me that people need to modify the bike to go faster. I've had the 950 up to 105 mph on the freeway without trying and still had throttle left.

Thanks for the answer Gary, it was worth a shot. :)

bevo1981
01-18-2011, 03:34 AM
I know it's my age but it still amazes me that people need to modify the bike to go faster.

yup. it's your age. some people feel the need. the need.............for speed. yeah i went there. when my bike was stock, i could barely get it past 100 before it topped out. even though nothing i've done to my bike has been done with top speed in mind, i've got it past 115 with no prob before having to throttle off.

GaryTJ
01-18-2011, 07:44 PM
You should have got the 1300 then... LOL

40 in 1rst, 84 in second, 122 in third and decided to back off just after shifting into 4th.

Fulltilt1
01-18-2011, 07:50 PM
Gary running leaner will increase fuel mileage, however will at extremes decrease the longevity and cost benefits of said leaning of the mixture. LOL An air mod would probably make it run a little bit farther on a gallon (ease the suction on the motor), but if would also increase the fun factor and you'd probably get into the throttle more. There by turning a positive (more mileage) into a negative (increased fuel usage).

GaryTJ
01-18-2011, 08:01 PM
Gary running leaner will increase fuel mileage, however will at extremes decrease the longevity and cost benefits of said leaning of the mixture. LOL An air mod would probably make it run a little bit farther on a gallon (ease the suction on the motor), but if would also increase the fun factor and you'd probably get into the throttle more. There by turning a positive (more mileage) into a negative (increased fuel usage).

Only to a point. If it goes too lean it will cause incomplete combustion allowing raw fuel to exit into the Catalytic converter and cause damage. When it is on the edge it will not be a missfire, but a lack of power, causing you to open the throttle more to get the same power. Ergo, decreased fuel economy.

It will also cause increased combustion chamber temps and increased NOx emissions.

Fulltilt1
01-18-2011, 08:07 PM
Thats what I meant by "at extremes". Adding an air kit will make the suction less and increase the power, just by less power being robbed through internal losses. While still staying within the fuel map of the ECU. Most factory air boxes are built to not only get air into the bike, but also decrease intake noise. So they have built in restrictions that cancel out or feedback/trap resonant vibrations.

GaryTJ
01-18-2011, 08:22 PM
Thats what I meant by "at extremes". Adding an air kit will make the suction less and increase the power, just by less power being robbed through internal losses. While still staying within the fuel map of the ECU.

We are basically in agreement. :-)
the Vacuum in the motor will not be effected as it is controlled by the throttle plate opening.
But, If you have ANY vacuum at all in the air cleaner, even at wide open throttle, you have a restricted airflow situation that an aftermarket air cleaner will correct. It just maximizes the airflow potential of the motor to the limit of the intake runners and camshaft profile.

Good discussion!

Fulltilt1
01-18-2011, 08:31 PM
+1 on the good conversation. I also agree probably a cam, runners, larger throttle body or forced air would require larger injectors or a change in the map. Way beyond "Just Cruisin".

04ctd
01-20-2011, 10:13 PM
FWIW, we put a Cobra tuner on the Yamasaki last nite, and heated grips, and a small bag.

its too cold for her to test it out :)

arless
01-23-2011, 06:44 PM
That may slightly increase performance but I don't like the fact that you're bypassing the air filter when drilling hole in the air filter housing.

Dud, next time you mod a stock engine go out and get a sport bike and leave the cruisers alone. That air box looks like s--t now that you have destroyed it. What are you going to do when it rains now? suck in water? The Star factory spent a lot of money getting the bike to perform with the intake and exhaust tuning and now you have messed it up and the bike probley runs worse than before. It has a dip in the power curve now and that makes the seat of the paints feel like it is faster. Go race a stock 950 and get embarrassed dud:eek::D

arless
01-23-2011, 06:51 PM
We have ordered a new Yamaha FZ-8 standard, for the hills and twisty back roads. The dealer has none right now, but has me a black FZ-8 coming in about three days he says. The thing only weights 471 lb's full of fluids so can't wait to get my hands on the bike.

GaryTJ
01-23-2011, 11:40 PM
Arless, you really do need to learn to play nice. Putting someone else down to make yourself feel better is not the answer. :)

We know now that the intake is responsible for most of the power up grades to this bike. Leaving the exhaust alone, And up grading the intake adds more power than with the exhaust mod.

You had it right here, the intake on the newer v-stars is slightly restricted and when you combine that with where the air is coming from (between the two cylinders, for emissions reasons) you can have a noticable increase from modding the air cleaner housing.

Now how it is done is a personal preference thing. just remember that cosmetic items are a personal item and not open to debate.

arless
01-24-2011, 12:36 AM
I love to ride motorcycles and have fun, and if I have been a bit over the edge to some of you bikers. Then I apologize to each and every one of you. Now speed density is the amount of speed the system flows fuel and air, or none adjustable system. Mass air system works just like it says, and can see a lot of mods that will automatically adjust to the engine. Up to the point of needing larger fuel injectors, And but still will work because it is a open loop system with no limits per say where the speed density in stock form is a little better than the mass air system but its a closed loop system and there for none adjustable. Just to try to shed some light on the subject. Speed density is a richer air fuel ratio system. Where the mass air system is a more precise air fuel system. Again I hope this helps and I will try to be a little nicer to you guys. Have a blessed night you all

GaryTJ
01-24-2011, 12:47 AM
Thank you Arless.:)

arless
01-24-2011, 01:38 AM
your welcome GaryTL

Fulltilt1
01-24-2011, 08:21 PM
The VStar 950's emission control is a "Closed Loop" system. It uses feedback from the sensors (O2, TPS, ISC, etc)to adjust the engine parameters.

arless
01-24-2011, 09:03 PM
The VStar 950's emission control is a "Closed Loop" system. It uses feedback from the sensors (O2, TPS, ISC, etc)to adjust the engine parameters.

Very good, you are absolutely correct:)

Midnight Gaz
02-28-2011, 01:07 PM
Has anyone tried the exhaust drilling mod on a newer model XVS950A? I fancied having a go at mine, mainly just to get it a bit louder as it's so quiet, I'm not bothered about power increase (it's fine as is!) and no way am I drilling into the air intake housing and spoiling the looks there. However, the hole in the end of the exhaust on my 2010 model is only just over an inch across, I guess they've altered it since the 2009 one and you can't get a 1.5 inch hole saw in there. There does appear to be a little disc welded in about 16 inches back, I was wondering if drilling that out with a 1 inch hole saw would make any difference or will I just go through it and ruin the catalytic converter on the other side? Anyone tried yet?

karnal
02-28-2011, 02:56 PM
I was wondering if drilling that out with a 1 inch hole saw would make any difference or will I just go through it and ruin the catalytic converter on the other side? Anyone tried yet?

I actually didn't have a good 1.5" bit to do on my '09, so we just poked a bunch of holes in it with a smaller drill bit. Sounds good; and you'd have to poke quite a ways to get to the cat.

Midnight Gaz
03-01-2011, 12:58 PM
Ok, I decided to go for it... a 1 1/8 inch (29mm) bimetal hole saw bit fits just nicely and did the trick. Unfortunately I lost the disc I'd cut out inside the silencer at the far end, but managed to retrieve it after about 15 minutes fishing with a magnet taped to the end of a long stick and one of those telescopic magnets, between the pair of them it eventually came out! I know it wouldn't harm in there, but I didn't want it rattling about.

Just for info, the cat is about 4 inches further back from the disc which was drilled out, I can clearly see the honeycomb end of it now.

Sounds a lot better now! Thanks for all the info on here and the video on YouTube, big help.

Cheers,
Gary.
:)

Sgt Mike
03-01-2011, 07:47 PM
Ok, I decided to go for it... a 1 1/8 inch (29mm) bimetal hole saw bit fits just nicely and did the trick. Unfortunately I lost the disc I'd cut out inside the silencer at the far end, but managed to retrieve it after about 15 minutes fishing with a magnet taped to the end of a long stick and one of those telescopic magnets, between the pair of them it eventually came out! I know it wouldn't harm in there, but I didn't want it rattling about.

Just for info, the cat is about 4 inches further back from the disc which was drilled out, I can clearly see the honeycomb end of it now.

Sounds a lot better now! Thanks for all the info on here and the video on YouTube, big help.

Cheers,
Gary.
:)
Actually Gary one doesn't have to try to fish it out. Quite a few of us blew the disc out by starting the engine. and giving it a few gooses(geese) an the throttle.

04ctd
03-05-2011, 10:10 AM
midnite, I like the drilled pipe.

the drilled airbox is really NOT visible in real life, because of the angle & shading.

FWIW, i would not drill the airbox unless you are going to add a Tuner of some sort to richen it up. when it's lean, it runs HOT. very hot, the wife was uncomfortable on it.


we finally put a Cobra tuner on it.

bevo1981
03-16-2011, 02:33 AM
can't remember which thread it was, but there were some people discussing changing out the rear sprocket for one with more teeth. can't even remember if it was this forum or not. but after discussing this with the guys at the Yamaha dealership, they said that going with a sprocket with more teeth will give you more lower end torque and move your powerband down and give you better acceleration. but it will lower your top end speed, make your engine work harder at highway speeds, and give you worse gas mileage. so if any of you are thinking about doing this, it's something to consider.

Tonydtiger1971
03-20-2011, 10:13 PM
can't remember which thread it was, but there were some people discussing changing out the rear sprocket for one with more teeth. can't even remember if it was this forum or not. but after discussing this with the guys at the Yamaha dealership, they said that going with a sprocket with more teeth will give you more lower end torque and move your powerband down and give you better acceleration. but it will lower your top end speed, make your engine work harder at highway speeds, and give you worse gas mileage. so if any of you are thinking about doing this, it's something to consider.


What about a larger sprocket on the front?

bevo1981
03-22-2011, 05:14 AM
What about a larger sprocket on the front?

more of the same, i'm sure. they basically agreed that there's no real reason for your casual cruiser rider to do this type of mod unless you want to hotdog it around town

8sec-z
03-25-2011, 07:04 PM
more of the same, i'm sure. they basically agreed that there's no real reason for your casual cruiser rider to do this type of mod unless you want to hotdog it around town

Smaller front sprocket and/or larger rear sprocket= better acceleration but higher freeway RPM.

Larger front sprocket and/or smaller rear sprocket= milder acceleration but lower rpm on the freeway.

I personally feel when I take off in first gear that my bike revs out quickly and I always feel like I shift all the time. If I had a smaller rear sprocket, I would do less shifting around town and my freeway buzzing/high rpm would be lowered to an acceptable level. Of course, this type of talk will spark a heated debate...

:cool:

Tonydtiger1971
03-28-2011, 10:36 PM
more of the same, i'm sure. they basically agreed that there's no real reason for your casual cruiser rider to do this type of mod unless you want to hotdog it around town

I have a mini bike that my son rides, hauls him or me quite well, he wants more speed and I think it could happen if I change the sprockets around. What do you think.

bevo1981
03-28-2011, 11:19 PM
I have a mini bike that my son rides, hauls him or me quite well, he wants more speed and I think it could happen if I change the sprockets around. What do you think.

well your best bet would be to find a really steep hill or tie a rope around it and pull it with a car

nickf2005
03-29-2011, 09:07 PM
Just drilled out my exhaust. Sounds 10X better than stock. Definitely worth the $20 in tools.

Tonydtiger1971
03-29-2011, 10:46 PM
well your best bet would be to find a really steep hill or tie a rope around it and pull it with a car

LOL, I keep telling him to trade his truck in on a Honda rebel, he'll be old enough to get his motorcycle license this year.

bevo1981
03-30-2011, 02:51 AM
LOL, I keep telling him to trade his truck in on a Honda rebel, he'll be old enough to get his motorcycle license this year.

i learned to ride on a honda rebel. so he drives a truck but hasn't been old enough for a motorcycle license?

Tonydtiger1971
03-30-2011, 07:42 AM
i learned to ride on a honda rebel. so he drives a truck but hasn't been old enough for a motorcycle license?

Yes, the legal age to get a motorcycle learners permit in Georgia is 17 although they can drive a cage at 15.

Adjusted3
03-30-2011, 06:49 PM
OK, I have read this entire thread, looked at all the U-Tube vids, drank a 5th of jack and still had reservations....

Then I spoke to my dealers mechanic and my dealer. The mechanic said no issues. He has seen so many of them that he is surprised that Yammy actully has not modified the exhaust simply for sales reasons. the salesman tried to tell me tha it will reduce the trade in of the bike...I asked would it be drastic over a set of slash pipes or would that make a difference in the final trade in? he words were depends on what you would be buying....

So I drilled mine out 2 days ago......OH MY GOD.......5 seconds of work, 20 mins to assemble the tools and 5 days to get the nerve up....Yes this is a BRAND NEW BIKE- an 09 V-Star 950. I am impressed but not to the extent of what a Harley sounds like. I does have a rap at low end, sounds almost the same at idle but I now can "hear" my bike going down the road over the wind noise.

I am happy....screw that trade in, I am keeping my bike.

Mark

bevo1981
03-31-2011, 06:18 AM
I am happy....screw that trade in, I am keeping my bike.


agreed. a bike is not a car. while trade-in value is a factor to consider when doing something on your car, i don't think a motorcycle owner should ever factor in trade-in value when deciding to customize something on the bike. your bike should say as much about you as you say about it. a car is a mode of transportation that you will probably sell or trade in one day. a bike is an extension of your passion/soul/fantasy/ego/credo/mantra/style............

screw trade-in

farmalldanzil
03-31-2011, 07:19 AM
Trade-in, Is something that never took-root in the farming country.
We keep ever thing to help hold up the weeds and grass:D.

Fulltilt1
03-31-2011, 10:46 AM
Sounds like you are well "Adjusted"...

Adjusted3
03-31-2011, 08:06 PM
Sounds like you are well "Adjusted"...

If you knew what I did for a living, Yep!!!.... As time goes on I might reveal that.....

But then I am new to this place.... I shy away from TMI...

Mark

04ctd
11-12-2011, 12:55 PM
If you knew what I did for a living, Yep!!!.... As time goes on I might reveal that.....

But then I am new to this place.... I shy away from TMI...

Mark

Mark, did you stay with the OEM pipe & the hole, or move up to a Slip-on?

and what happened to Sgt Mike? he was big 950 proponent!

Adjusted3
11-14-2011, 10:31 AM
Mark, did you stay with the OEM pipe & the hole, or move up to a Slip-on?

and what happened to Sgt Mike? he was big 950 proponent!

I actually stayed with the OEM pipe and the drill out. I am considering purchasing a set of Cobras but right now that is down the road. Since that post I have purchased a 2nd 09 950 New and between teh 2 of them, my finances have been headed in other directions, engine guards, road pegs, windshield for the new bike, bags, LED lights, and a few other little mods. Before I get the Cobra's I am looking at a mustang seat.

Mark

bevo1981
11-15-2011, 04:00 AM
i did this hole mod on my pipes and loved the effect. for a while. then i craved more. i realized it wasn't that big of a change after all and that's when i decided to upgrade pipes. go big or go home. so i went big. many are satisfied with just the hole mod, but i just wanted more.

04ctd
08-31-2012, 10:28 PM
lets bump this for some longterm feedback.

we, also went with a slip on pipe, and like it better.

stoner
02-04-2013, 03:44 AM
hy everyone, i havent been on the forum for 2 years, so whats happening with aftermarket tuning. is there big bore kits, cams, high comp pistons ect avaik=lable yet. on my bike the cats gone its got a straight through exhaust system on with a reverse cone megaphone on the end. the foot board holders have been ground down so they dont dig in at extreme lean angles the airbox has the hole betwan the cylinders blanked off and extra holes drilled on the front and sides with a smallish flyscreen fitted to keep the windblast off my chest when i,m in a hurry and want to cruise at 90+mph on the motorway. any info would be appeciated. john-uk

tbiker
02-04-2013, 07:54 PM
Did the drill out on the exhaust. Amazing

Sent from my SGH-I747 using Motorcycle.com Free App

silverwoof
02-28-2013, 04:52 AM
i was like a few of the others worried about drilling....after reading the forum, talking to a few wrenchers, i decided to give it a go. $20 in tools, 2 minutes putting the drill extension together, 25 seconds of drilling....increased the sound enough, i get about 4 miles more a gallon, and a slight noticable increase of pep on the freeway. thanks to the guys on this topic who walked me thru it....i'm glad i did it.

i considered, and could have bought any bike out there (except for those $60,000 custom tv bikes)...i chose a 09 950 tourer (bought new in 10)....i turned 37,000 miles last week....went to a little larger windshield (made by an aircraft window manufacturer in pasadena), ultimate seat (the stock seat was a killer), no backseat / sissybar, oil change every 3,000 miles....now getting ready for third set of tires....very satisfied up here in the berdoo mountains of SoCal....take care, ride easy brothers and sisters, silverwoof

bevo1981
02-28-2013, 01:23 PM
i was like a few of the others worried about drilling....after reading the forum, talking to a few wrenchers, i decided to give it a go. $20 in tools, 2 minutes putting the drill extension together, 25 seconds of drilling....increased the sound enough, i get about 4 miles more a gallon, and a slight noticable increase of pep on the freeway.


i never noticed any performance gains when i did it. maybe i didn't pay close attention.

tbiker
02-28-2013, 01:38 PM
Yeah I can only tell a difference in sound. If there was a difference I think it would be minimal.

blackie72
02-28-2013, 04:54 PM
On a Vstar 1300 I used to own and on the 950 I am rideing. I drilled the exhaust with a 0ne and a half inch metal hole saw. On the air box if you take it off the bike you can drill holes on the two shelves. I used a 3/8th inch bit and put 12 holes on the upper shelf and four on the lower shelf. This allows opeing up the box and it is not visible as being modifed on the outside. Both of the bikes performed much better. The bike is still not overly loud due to the cat converter which is just in front of the muffler. The bike still apears totally stock. All of the air still flows to the motor trhough the filter.

tbiker
02-28-2013, 05:14 PM
I won't do any alterations to the air box or any more to the exhaust until I get a tuner

Tonydtiger1971
02-28-2013, 11:50 PM
Glad to hear you took the plunge. Drilled mine out a couple of years ago and like the sound, doesn't deafen you like some bikes I won't mention. :) Still trying to get up the cash to pull the trigger on an Ultimate seat but right now I've installed a Memphis Shades batwing and I've been tinkering with it.

04ctd
06-18-2013, 10:57 PM
got the email "you haven't been on our forum in a while, drop by..."

so I figured I would bump this thread.
the 950's are awesome bikes.

can someone start a thread "pictures of aftermarket air intakes/filters"

we now have a pipe, a tuner, and I think a new intake would make it all flow more better :)

bevo1981
06-19-2013, 09:39 PM
you could start a new thread