I used a 1½" holesaw with a 12" extension and removed the end of the secondary chamber, and as it was mentioned my 950 now has a pleasingly low, robust rumble:D. Compared to the stock sound, the level is now over twice as loud as it was but will not wake up or upset your neighbors:). Since the stock exhaust has 2 chambers the primary chamber still gives adequate muffling but man oh!! man the sound you'll get by holesawing that stock exhaust. You won't want to spend $450.00+ dollars on after market pipes after hearing it;). I don't think that I'll drill the air box at time, I'm a little leary about a too lean a mixture the ECU won't compensate so I'll do more research on that matter before I modify the air box.

copy cat!?!

where did you get the hole saw? metal or wood?
part number?

we rode yesterday, and the wife can't hear hers, even with the 1/2 hole i drilled in.

LMK!

copy cat!?!

where did you get the hole saw? metal or wood?
part number?

we rode yesterday, and the wife can't hear hers, even with the 1/2 hole i drilled in.

LMK!

I got a Ridgid metal holesaw kit Part #7039 and the 12" extension at Lowe's, Home depot has them also, I can't remember the cost but it wasn't all that expensive. The kit cover 7/8" to 1½". If you don't want to buy whole kit just get the 1½" holesaw. That's why I went to 1½" because ½" just didn't do the job. She'll hear it with 1½" hole in it. BTW, the 1½" holesaw fits like a glove in the muffler bore. The metal disc didn't come out when I pulled out the saw so I had to use my 16" mechanical fingers to get it out.
This is what mechanical fingers look like. You can get them at Lowe's and Home Depot.

http://www.setools.com/mechfing.shtml

any reason to buy more tools :)

sweet, will go to Lowes on way home tomorrow.

i may pull the pipe off, and take some pics of it.

i think that plate is up near the front.

any reason to buy more tools :)

sweet, will go to Lowes on way home tomorrow.

i may pull the pipe off, and take some pics of it.

i think that plate is up near the front.

The piece that needs holesawed is about 14" in from the outlet end of the muffler. In fact it's the same area that you drilled the ½" hole that you have pictures of in your "yamaha v star 950 performance mods" thread

is anyone else weary about sticking a 14" drill into their muffler and drilling a blind hole into a perfectly good exhaust? i'm all for better performance and sound, but the thought of doing this to my brand new bike makes me uneasy. what are the possible negative effects from doing this? what makes me the most uncomfortable about this is that you can't see what you're cutting or what you're doing, or if you could be messing up without even knowing it.

is anyone else weary about sticking a 14" drill into their muffler and drilling a blind hole into a perfectly good exhaust? i'm all for better performance and sound, but the thought of doing this to my brand new bike makes me uneasy. what are the possible negative effects from doing this? what makes me the most uncomfortable about this is that you can't see what you're cutting or what you're doing, or if you could be messing up without even knowing it.


Not so bevo1981, you can shine a flashlight in the muffler bore and see exactly where you're drilling. It's not a 14" drill, it's a 1½" holesaw attached to 12" extension. Three of us that I know of has done this with no negative effect because the ECU and the oxygen sensor compensates for it. If you do as I have explained it, you'll not mess up anything. The 1½" holesaw slides very nicely in the bore
and will not flop or vibrate around while you're drilling/sawing the thin metal that you're working with. The actual drilling takes about 20 seconds or less with a good holesaw.

Go to the below link, it shows you where you'll be drilling/sawing. The first picture is very clear about this. If you look in your muffler bore there isn't a hole there, 04ctd drilled a ½" hole in his to see if it would improve the sound . The metal at the end of the bore is what you'll be removing.
http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473

Would this work on a 650cc Classic or no???

Would this work on a 650cc Classic or no???

I'm not sure how the exhaust is on the 650 miracleman, somebody that has/had one will propably chime in and give you that answer.

Does anyone know???

Hi miracleman.

I have an 04 650 Classic that the previous owner drilled out before I got it. I'm not sure what the stock exhaust looks like, but he told me he removed some sort of cap that was on the end of the exhaust pipes. What you see now is a disc (baffle?) just a couple inches in from the end. There is a hole in the center, and this guy drilled 5 3/8" holes evenly spaced around the edge. The sound is so sweet! It is not too loud, and is easily confused for Harley sound by the casual listener.

Hope this helps!

roxtar

I don't suppose you have any pictures??? I am a visual learning person! If you could post them that would be awesome! Thanks!!!

http://www.650ccnd.com/drillout.htm


This is a link to a picture of one with 3 holes. After you remove the cone from the end of the pipe, this is what you see, without the holes in the outside. The difference is mine has 5 evenly spaced holes, and the sound is awesome!

btw -- that site, 650ccnd.com, is a wealth of info for the 650 V-Star!

Hey thanks!!

i did this mod last week on the 950

it is AWESOME, and it RUNS, it pulls good from down low too.

and the 4 valves let it flow up top.

i have many sound clips, will post when i get on the main computer, on laptop now

sound clips here:

http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/

the catalytic converter is still present and providing some back pressure

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/DSC05210.jpg

here's a comparo of the V Star 950 and the Harley,

the V star is running, and I crank the harley, and it's much louder.

that's not significant though...whats significant is the Yamaha rider can AT LEAST tell if the yamaha is running.

it's REALLY crappy for me to have to shut the harley off for the wife to hear the Yamaha crank, and she won't have to do that with this mod, so this sound clip is kinda misleading.


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/th_MOV05233.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/04vrscb/yamaha_V_star_950/?action=view&current=MOV05233.flv)

well i've just spent several minutes trying to drill out my exhaust and no luck yet. i'm using a Sears Craftsman 2.5 amps 1200RPM drill with the ridgid holesaw and extension. it doesn't seem to be cutting any, and now the saw will hang up on the disc causing the rotation to cease, and my drill starts smoking. any thoughts? could it be that my drill just isn't powerful enough and i should get a much more powerful one?

i hate to sound anti-sgt mike, but there is absolutely no comparison from stock exhaust modifications to aftermarket pipes!!!
1. sound may be loud with stock exhaust mod, but not as nice.
2. the performance you get from aftermarket pipes cannot be achieved by stock mods.
3. aftermarkets pipes will shave about 20 pounds off your bike.
4. looks!!! not even close!!!

i hate to sound anti-sgt mike, but there is absolutely no comparison from stock exhaust modifications to aftermarket pipes!!!
1. sound may be loud with stock exhaust mod, but not as nice.
2. the performance you get from aftermarket pipes cannot be achieved by stock mods.
3. aftermarkets pipes will shave about 20 pounds off your bike.
4. looks!!! not even close!!!

It might be true what you are saying but you cannot really compare free mod with 400 bucks spent thou. With this mod ppl will get at least louder exhaust without spending and also a lot might not really want very loud bike.
1. not as nice, it depends what you are compare it to, if HK then I'd agree but with other 2 into 1 exhaust like Roadhouse I would say stock mod is pretty close.
2. The performance doesn't really come just from the pipes but also air kit and that another spending.
3. 20 pounds off your bike, that doesn't really hurt the bike much to carry 20lbs around but 500 USD out of pocket that gotta hurt somes.
4. Looks? I like HK big straight but I am not sure if HK already make pipes for 950, Cobra is just too small and might not look as good. I used to have Roadhouse 2 into 1 on my 650 and I think the stock pipes look as good. If 950 get the end tip like 1300 I would say that's perfect.

i hate to sound anti-sgt mike, but there is absolutely no comparison from stock exhaust modifications to aftermarket pipes!!!
1. sound may be loud with stock exhaust mod, but not as nice.
2. the performance you get from aftermarket pipes cannot be achieved by stock mods.
3. aftermarkets pipes will shave about 20 pounds off your bike.
4. looks!!! not even close!!!

I hate to sound anti-Johnny;) But you're not comparing apples to apples or in this case exhaust to exhaust. Until one can afford or decides to install after market pipes the stock pipe mod does a good job for a very minimal investment. About $25.00.:D Agreed?:)

I hate to sound anti-Johnny;) But you're not comparing apples to apples or in this case exhaust to exhaust. Until one can afford or decides to install after market pipes the stock pipe mod does a good job for a very minimal investment. About $25.00.:D Agreed?:)

absolutely agreed!

I tried to do this today but could not find a 12" extension to save my life. I settled on a 10" but as I figured it was too short so attempt number 2 will have to wait until tomorrow or until I can find the right extension.

I'm kind of skeptical about drilling a hole in a brand new perfecly fine exhaust but I want a richer sound so... drilling it is.

Tim - I was skeptical too at first, but did the mod and couldn't be happier. For a minimal investment ($25) you can't beat it. The pipe has a deeper tone and a meaner 'growl'. I ride with a buddy who owns an HD Road King Classic. When he rode next to me or behind he could barely hear my 950 before the mod. Now, he as well as I definately notice a difference.
I used a 12" extension that I picked up at Sears hardware. You should be able to find one at any of the big box stores; Lowes, Home Depot. Enjoy!

Tim - I was skeptical too at first, but did the mod and couldn't be happier. For a minimal investment ($25) you can't beat it. The pipe has a deeper tone and a meaner 'growl'. I ride with a buddy who owns an HD Road King Classic. When he rode next to me or behind he could barely hear my 950 before the mod. Now, he as well as I definately notice a difference.
I used a 12" extension that I picked up at Sears hardware. You should be able to find one at any of the big box stores; Lowes, Home Depot. Enjoy!

Thanks. I was really wanting to get it done yesterday and was hoping that the 10" would work but it didn't which wasn't a big deal. I'll pick another one up today after work and get it done. I've watched the vids on You Tube and I can tell a difference in the sound onthem so I'm sure I'll be happy with it. Anything is better than pure stock.

Well I wet and picked up a 12" extension today... Tried to drill the exhaust and the extension was too short. I was very disappointed yet again. So you know what they say 3rd time is the charm. Of course if I keep putting it off I'll save up enought to get a set of Cobra Slant backs.

Look guys,
I did the mod as described by Mike, it's a really nice mod with great sound for the little money you spend on it.
There is some nice aftermarket pipes for the 950, especially from Cobra and others (myself I like the curved pipes from V&H), but the pricetag is quite........ you know!

Ride Safe ;)

Well I wet and picked up a 12" extension today... Tried to drill the exhaust and the extension was too short. I was very disappointed yet again. So you know what they say 3rd time is the charm. Of course if I keep putting it off I'll save up enought to get a set of Cobra Slant backs.

I don't know what other ppl who using 12" extension and can drill the plate inside easily. I was in the same boat as you, I got 12" extension and found out I cannot reach to the plate with 12" extension. I simply used a small pole and poke inside to see how deep and found out it is about 15" to reach to the plate. Lucky I had another 4" extension (drive guide) and that get the job done.

I don't know what other ppl who using 12" extension and can drill the plate inside easily. I was in the same boat as you, I got 12" extension and found out I cannot reach to the plate with 12" extension. I simply used a small pole and poke inside to see how deep and found out it is about 15" to reach to the plate. Lucky I had another 4" extension (drive guide) and that get the job done.


Now I KNOW the 3rd time will be the charm lol

I was concidering drilling a hole to make my bike sound better, but I checked out the V&H pipes. After seeing these, I would not be happy with just a hole. Gotta save my $$ for these.

Checkout the Vance & Hynes pipes for the 950. http://www.vanceandhines.com/products/yamaha-vstar950-br22/bigradius2-2.html I don't know about you, but these look real nice.

My Buddy has the V and H pipes and to be honest they some amazing.

But plan on having to adjust your fuel air mixture unless you like "POP, CRACK, SPUTTER SPUTTER, POP!"

I don't know what other ppl who using 12" extension and can drill the plate inside easily. I was in the same boat as you, I got 12" extension and found out I cannot reach to the plate with 12" extension. I simply used a small pole and poke inside to see how deep and found out it is about 15" to reach to the plate. Lucky I had another 4" extension (drive guide) and that get the job done.

A 12" extension with a good bi-metal holesaw gives you the 15" need to get the job done.

My Buddy has the V and H pipes and to be honest they some amazing.

But plan on having to adjust your fuel air mixture unless you like "POP, CRACK, SPUTTER SPUTTER, POP!"

Does anyone have any experience with fuel management systems, like the Fi2000 systems from Cobra, or others! Or are these unnecessary, to someone's opinion?! :confused:

Would like some comments....:o

Ride Safe ;)

Does anyone have any experience with fuel management systems, like the Fi2000 systems from Cobra, or others! Or are these unnecessary, to someone's opinion?! :confused:

Would like some comments....:o

Ride Safe ;)

I had a Cobra Fi2000 on my C50 and it did eliminate the backfiring that began after I installed a 2 in 1 exhaust. Generally if one replaces the stock exhaust with an after market a fuel management is highly recommended because they lean out the combution and that can cause some ping, knock, backfiring and possibly engine damage. Some install after market exhaust, put up with the backfiring and never have any problems. Go figure. I think that a dual exhaust won't fit on the Tourer due to the bags, in this case a Cobra slip-on is the ticket and you don't have to worry about a lean-out condition because the stock pipes are not replaced.

So the 3rd and final attempt took place today after I found an extension to put on the extension. Apparently the hole-saw I used wasn't up to the Sarge's specs... Anyway, Drilled out my 50 cent baffle piece and OMG the difference is night and day!!!

This has got to be the greatest cost-effective mod ever.

I bought my 950 tourer at the end of March. I have over 2500 miles on it now. I just stumbled upon this forum today. After reading this thread, I went out and bought the tools and did the mod. I too was leery about drilling into a perfectly good exhaust, but boy am I glad I did. It sounds great!!

I also went out and bought the FIAMM Freeway Blaster Low Tone horn from Pep Boys. Another cheap but nice mod. Super simple install and now my horn sounds like a large car instead of a bicycle. $15 and less than 10 minutes to install.

Wow. I just saw the new V&H pipes that were just released for the 950. Pricey ($700), which even beats out some Harley pipes, but they look amazing and I can't wait to hear them. I'll be buying them sometime around December, as I have some major maintenance to do on my Tacoma first.

If anyone has these pipes, please let me know if they are worth the money at this time (probably won't sway me either way, they just look too amazing to pass up).

http://www.vanceandhines.com/products/yamaha-vstar950-br22/bigradius2-2.html

Wow. I just saw the new V&H pipes that were just released for the 950. Pricey ($700), which even beats out some Harley pipes, but they look amazing and I can't wait to hear them. I'll be buying them sometime around December, as I have some major maintenance to do on my Tacoma first.

If anyone has these pipes, please let me know if they are worth the money at this time (probably won't sway me either way, they just look too amazing to pass up).

http://www.vanceandhines.com/products/yamaha-vstar950-br22/bigradius2-2.html

Great and "kewl":cool: looking pipes:), but remember that if you install them you'll have to shell out another $230.00 + dollars:eek: for a fuel management modual otherwise the backfiring caused by those short pipes will too much to bear.:mad:

Hey Guys,

nice pipes indeed, really sharp looking!

But it looks like not only a fuel management system will be needed, but you may also have to do something with the O2 sensor.

On the stock pipes, the O2 sensor is placed were the two pipes join together, ahead of were slip ons go, so now I'm curious, is the Management with the O2 sensor done on only one cylinder with these pipes ?

Dennis

Sgt. Mike
Being a fromerVN vet grunt corpsman, I always listen the my sgt. Will this work on my new ,2009, 1100 Classic?

vstar 1100 custom exhaust mod available?
I have a 2000 1100 custom with stock pipes. anyone got a similar mod for this style dual pipe exhaust and will any addn carb/jetting work be required? also, do you remove the pipes and hold in a vise for the drill out operation or can you leave attached to the bike.

i had seen the following mod at the following website i saw on ebay, it seemed to have good reviews ,it is for a vstar 1100, about 135.00. Has anyone tried it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-09-V-STAR-VSTAR-1100-&-650-EXHAUST-MODIFICATION_W0QQitemZ300351602440QQcmdZViewItemQQ imsxZ20090928?IMSfp=TL0909281510005r12156#shId

vstar23: I can't answer your question, but I did write to that ebayer to get his input for adding the 950 to his pipe rework. He indicated that there wasn't enough demand from 950 owners to justify the expense.

I'm not sure how his mod will differ, but suffice it to say that the least expense option at this point is to drill, baby, drill.

I don't know the answer except that the Stock V-Star 1100 can be improved by drilling out the exhaust chamber as shown in some forums. Based upon this, I'd use a flashlight to examine the interior of the 650 to see what is in there. The size of the 1100 drill is smaller than the 950. It is likely, therefore that each of these exhausts has it's own correct size for drilling. The 650 has carbs. I would suggest a jet kit that has been previously and correctly done for the bike, depending upon how much is drilled out of the stock pipes and how much the back pressure is changed. The air box and filter also have an effect on the underpowered 650. But it can be improved if done properly.

I hear lots of good sounding bikes out there. I occasionally hear one that sounds tinny. Most of these have been home brew jobs. If I were going to take a hole saw to my muffler I would want to hear one like it first. There some sound clips on you Tube but not the best sample because of automatic record and play back levels. Search your bike on You tube or look for one at a bike night might help.

Dave

On a pipe related matter, I installed, finally, when they went on sale, a set of Cobra pipes, in my case for the V-Star 1100, a set of Cobra Speedster Slashdowns. The same situations apply for the Longs. The weld for the exhaust of the front cylinder on the new pipes creates about 3/8 of build-up that prevents the collar from seating on the engine exhaust fastening studs as not enough thread is available. The easy fix turned out to be the using of a countersink on the collar on the inside portion of the hole for the pipe itself. When drilled with a countersink, enough relief is provided to snug the collar up the way it was originally designed and engineered. Labree motorsports.com will do this for a nominal charge plus shipping, if an owner does not have access to the large, hardened counter-sink required for the job. Good luck on drilling the pipes or on selecting a good after-market pipe.

I hear lots of good sounding bikes out there. I occasionally hear one that sounds tinny. Most of these have been home brew jobs. If I were going to take a hole saw to my muffler I would want to hear one like it first. There some sound clips on you Tube but not the best sample because of automatic record and play back levels. Search your bike on You tube or look for one at a bike night might help.

Dave

Yeah , Dave, you are right on I think. A set of stock mufflers ain't no where near close to cheap, be a flat out shame to screw em up not knowing what you might end up with. Ride Free, Ride Safe:D

If I drill out my exhaust like this, will it void my warranty? I only have 500 miles on my 950 and don't want to give up my warranty yet.

On the V star 1100 the standard front pipe is in the way of the oil filter and needs to be removed to do the job properly , do any of the aftermarket pipes resolve this clearance issue at all ? if so which brand please .

There really is no way to fix the oil filter situation unless a pipe was designed by the aftermarket to come out of the exhaust to the left of the motorcycle instead of the right. The look of the motorcycle thus altered, might take care of the problem. The more expensive method is the jardine oil relocation kit on the one offered by Pacific Coast Star.com, which, when installed, makes the oil change a breeze, plus adds about a half quart of oil to the system which helps to keep it cleaner, longer. The new 950, of course, solved the problem by having the filter available right between the front down tubes for direct unscrewing. Amazingly, the relocation kit for the V-Star 1100 is even easier to get to and to change. It is the closest thing to no effort to change a filter one can presently find.

I put a Barons ork on mine, very happy with it. There is a whole lot of info on sloneservices.com on oil and ork stuff, it will tell you not all ork's are created equal, such as the inside dia of the lines to and from. Take a look if you are thinking that route. Ride Free, Ride Safe:D

Marty,
My guess is it might vary with the dealer but if you modify the biker it could lead to warrenty problems.

V Spec,
There is an aftermarket filter relocation kit that moves the filter up front. Is Chrome, looks good and helps with cooling. $230 to $260.
Kuryakyn is one source.
http://motorcycle-accessories.cruisercustomizing.com/search?w=oilfilter+relocation&model_id=36&search2=Go

Is another. J&P Cycle is another.
Dave

Hey there, I am VERY new here but I have read and DONE the exhaust mod using the 1 1/2" hole saw, and I have also done the airbox mod, using a 3/8" drill and drilling multiple holes vertically! I can tell you both have made a difference. I drive about 40 mile one-way to work and it not only sounds better but it seems to run better too!! I have about 650 miles on it and I did the mods after the first service. It is louder without being too loud. Nice improvement without being too loud and I especially liked the price! I wish I could say the same about the price for the first service from the dealer.....but thats another forum topic.:eek:

I wish I could say the same about the price for the first service from the dealer.....but thats another forum topic.:eek:

Hey Jerry, I haven't called my dealer yet, but how much was your service?

The first service at the dealer that I bought the bike from was $185.00, and it included the oil and filter change. There is a full checklist that they go through. I thought it was a little steep, but I paid it. I also let the dealer know that it would have been nice to have been told about the price at the time of the sale. I also got the line from the service guy, that "you don't have to do the services at the dealer, but if anything goes wrong under warranty......". I WILL be doing the oil and filter services in my garage from now on.

Jerry:

Thanks. Just talked to a local dealer who said he'd do it for $100. So, feel good about that, but we'll see if he remembers me calling when It's time to take it in this spring. :)

A kind person drilled the pipes on my 1100 similar to what you guys describe and then sent me them (His old pipes, drilled out). I really do love the sound. I have to wear ear plugs, however, I really have to anyway because of wind noise. I have had people honk at me when I lane split, but I was not trying to be easy on the throttle.

Once I was in my truck waiting for a light to turn green. Some guy on a Harley blasted past me with open pipes and it actually rattled me so much I almost chased the guy down. I have a temper that I have trouble controlling sometimes (I am working on it though with Gods help!) so I understand not all people are like me. However, I try and avoid doing similar things to people.

So now when I lane split I try my level best to go easy on the throttle between the vehicles, even letting up and coasting past people who have their windows down as not to rattle them up.

I'm just saying though, even though my pipes are loudER they are actually a lot quieter than some aftermarket pipes that are, well, best described as "obnoxious". I am very happy with the sound my pipes make. Deep and loud enough to rumble but still quieter than overly obnoxious.

YMMV

I'm really glad that someone posted the cost of their initial tune-up. V-Twin Engines require that oil and filter change and the health of the rider is also relative to all the nuts and bolts on the frame and the accessories. The dealer is supposed to go over every one of those nuts and bolts with a torque wrench. Let's hope they do and make that expenditure worth while. After my initial dealer tune up at 600-1000 miles, it cost me $485.00. That was when I decided to get a manual and do my own wrenching. That new 2005 V-Star gets its oil changed at home. However the Jardine oil relocation kit (a quality one) went on the bike, even though the cost of it hurt really bad at the time. That's was the best mod I ever made. Makes that changing a snap.

The hole saw routine is measured differently on the 650, slightly, but following the threads and instructions, works the same way. So does the K&N air filter. Be careful about the airbox mods as the holes location is very important. Read as many threads as possible before undertaking such a mod.

vstar 1100 custom exhaust mod available? Thanks everyone for you helpful input.

I have a 2000-Vstar 1100 custom with stock pipes, stock air cleaner and carbs.

Where is the link showing the exhaust mod people are referencing in this thread?, the one where you bore our 1.5 hole in end of exhaust.
Do you remove exhaust to drill out or do you drill while pipes are mounted on bike. OR do you have to remove pipes, somehow hold in a vise.

Next question, where is the info on drilling air box that is mentioned. is this also a vstar 1100 mod and are there any concerns with any damage. any concern about water entering carb /intake?


i had seen the following exhaust mod at the following website i saw on ebay, it seemed to have good reviews ,it is for a vstar 1100, about $135.00. Has anyone tried it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-...005r12156#shId

Here is an air cleaner mod, is this similar to the mod people are mentioning here about drilling 3/8 dia holes in air box?

also, what about the following air intake mod for $25. 00, may be same as one mentioned by another post. Anybody tried it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V-STA...%3D2%26ps%3D63


Thanks for you feedback, i would like to do something cost effective to my exhaust.

V-Star23-Nice question and post. I have a 2005 V-Star and have not personally done any of these modifications, air or pipes. I've seen these mods several times on a number of forums on the net. Usually, type key words: V-Star 1100 Stock Exhaust modification or exhaust drilling and a few forums pop up showing just about everything. Essentially one buys a hole-saw which is a cylinder saw with the teeth on the end normally used to drill would and light metals. Different sizes have been recommended. One is removing the initial metal section surrounding the exit hole on the end of the exhaust pipe. There are bathroom plumbing pieces for a couple of dollars that can be put on the pipe after the drilling to complete the appearance and make the tone deep. It's best to cruise the net and find these articles; they are rather complete. As for the air box, their are several different ways to modify the box with drilling and also a home-made screen kit and a pro kit available. Again, put in the words in Google or Yahoo, "V-Star airbox modifications. Air is a tricky thing and being water tight is important. Certain parts of the box can be drilled for more air. Be prepared to fork over some money for a jet kit (re-jet kit) if you do both mods. A 2000 is a great year to do these mods because the smog situation is minimal. Of course, the best kits are the increasingly more expensive kits. If you like the looks of the stock pipes, the drilling method for them supplied on forums by members is quite safe for the pipes and helps to give it a great sound without really dipping into your savings.

I drilled four holes in each muffler starting with 1/8" bit- no backfire. Redrilled holes to 2/8"- no backfire. Drilled holes out to 3/8" and had numerous backfires when decelerating. Started filling in holes with liquid steel both mufflers. Three holes left each muffler, still backfiring. Two holes left both mufflers, still backfiring. Also exhaust sound was lousy. Decided to go head and fill remaining wholes and return to stock minus the cones. In order to insure holes sealed had to remove cones and apply liquid steel directly to baffle plate.

I have 2000 vstar 1100 custom with stock pipes
If i do the stock pipe mod, using the 1.5 hole saw i have a few questions

1. can this be done while pipes are attached or do you have to remove them for drilling
2. how deep do you have to drill, how long does an extension need to be to extend hole saw into exhaust pipe
3. i have heard there is a conical flared end on the baffle that is hard to remove, someone mentioned about driving a long screw driver along the side to expand the hole
4. do you use th 1.5 hole size on both pipes or do you have to use different sizes
5. i have heard that some people have backfiring issues and others not so much, what have you heard
i plan to try this but wanted to have the proper tools

thanks

phil

Just me I guess, but go back and read all the posts on this subject, looks to me like unless you got a wad ratholed back to fix it back right(Sugar Bear don't) maybe one should proceed with extreme caution. Maybe things are ok, maybe not.

Sounds like the 650 is sensitive. I would suggest insuring the the carburetors are synchronized and the valves adjusted. Be careful with that stock cluth. A Barnett Pressure Plate available from Pacific Coast Star is the best fix-zioo

As you may have read in my earlier posts, I have drilled the exhaust and the airbox (6 vertical 3/8" holes) on my '09 950 Tourer. I now have about 250 miles on it since. The exhaust sounds better, louder without being too loud, a little raspier and throatier, and it seems to breathe better. Maybe my imagination because of the noise, but it seems to have more power as well. Just thought I would drop a line and give an update.

I am REALLY enjoying this bike!!