electrical problems can take a lot of time - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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electrical problems can take a lot of time

i lost low beam on the 650 so i figured the bulb went bad i open the headlight up the filaments look good i change the bulb and the same problem no low beam so check the low beam socket at the connector and no power but high beam gets power when switched on so i figure its in the switch, i open the switch and it's sending power and working correctly on high but the main feed loses power when switched to low beam, so i decide to look at the fuse and metal in it is melted and just barely making contact, change that fuse out and the switch starts working right again but the bulb ( the new one) is still dead on low beam so i slide the connector back just enough to probe the actual bulb spade for power and it has power while probing it the spade wiggled and suddenly the bulb lit up, this whole issue was crazy first the weak fuse caused the problem and then the replacement bulb caused the exact same problem, i put the old bulb back in and all is good again, i'm buying a silverstar ultra 9003 next week, i hope it improves my night visibility, the point of this post is to show there really aren't any hard jobs or problems it's just some take longer than others to repair

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Last edited by pauli466; 04-04-2018 at 03:29 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 03:40 PM
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Ya, loose connectors/connections can drive you made attempting to diagnose, cause the meter your testing with draws so little current, the loose connection doesn't matter, but when you put a load on it, you get nothing.

Had a furnace that would not turn on, no power, checked with my meter when it was on, no power, check with it off, it had power. Found a wirenut that was no good.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by patrickdk View Post
Ya, loose connectors/connections can drive you made attempting to diagnose, cause the meter your testing with draws so little current, the loose connection doesn't matter, but when you put a load on it, you get nothing.

Had a furnace that would not turn on, no power, checked with my meter when it was on, no power, check with it off, it had power. Found a wirenut that was no good.
what i'm still confused about is why that switch lost power switching to low and not high beam, with high beam pulling 60 watts and low pulling 55 it should been the other way around losing high beam, figure that one out and i owe ya a beer

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 05:27 PM
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Are there separate fuses for the low beam and hi beam? That would make sense so you wont lose both at night at 85mph because one fuse blew.

Also does the switch control the power or the return to the bulbs? If it controls the power and both filaments have fuses, then it would have to be double pole double throw switch for Low / Hi.

But if it grounds the bulbs to turn them on, it can be a single pole double throw switch m- the two fuses on the power side, the switch on the ground side.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 05:51 PM
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i've had to fix my rear turn signal LED array numerous times because the wires feeding under the fender kept hanging down low enough to rub against the tire and wore through the wiring. about the 4th time i made the repair i noticed there was a bracket affixed to the top of the fender specifically for wiring to prevent this very issue. no problems since.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KCW View Post
Are there separate fuses for the low beam and hi beam? That would make sense so you wont lose both at night at 85mph because one fuse blew.

Also does the switch control the power or the return to the bulbs? If it controls the power and both filaments have fuses, then it would have to be double pole double throw switch for Low / Hi.

But if it grounds the bulbs to turn them on, it can be a single pole double throw switch m- the two fuses on the power side, the switch on the ground side.
the switch puts voltage to the high and low beams the 12 volt feed to the switch is fused with the tail and two front running lights and high beam indicator also on that same fuse/circuit. i not sure about the trip/reset rate on the circuit breaker i installed but i'm pretty sure i'll know that it tripped when all the lights go out for a few seconds, i have a bright indicator for my passing lights that would get my attention if it went off

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