anyone have one of these on their bike? since i'm on my third battery (same brand) since 2012, and now this one is dead after 3 years, i'm wondering if i should invest in a battery cutoff switch. i have a lithium ferrous battery which claims to last 8-10 years, have 4 times the energy density of a lead acid cell with more cold cranks, is much smaller and lighter than lead acid, and claims to have a very low self discharge rate: "This makes long term storage of your vehicle a simple proposition as long as there is no connected draw on the battery (such as alarm, anti-theft, or ECU draw)." i rarely go a few days without riding, even in the coldest months. i stopped riding at the end of June and attempted to charge the battery this past weekend but it will not charge and currently shows just 3 volts on the multimeter. that's just 2 months of sitting in a warm garage.
some particulars: some of you may already know the manufacturer i use as i have not kept it secret on here in the past, but until i get a current resolution, i will refrain from naming them for now as i still have faith in their product. in contrast to the OEM or off-the-shelf battery, this one appears to be very delicate and temperamental. you must use their proprietary charger to balance the cells a couple times a year. and NEVER jump start it from another battery (neither car nor bike is specified) if it does go dead, such as the result from leaving your lights on for an extended period of time. admittedly, this was a problem i had with my LED accent lighting on the previous battery. and when you've got a dead bike, sometimes your only option is to connect it to a car battery to get home. but i rectified that and have never left my lights on with this battery or needed to jump start it. and i did balance the cells twice a year. but i did not think to disconnect and remove the battery when i got injured because i was not planning on the bike being sedentary for this long. and the company does advise on storage: "Many vehicle ECUís will draw a tiny amount of current from the battery, so to be safe, you should disconnect the ground lead to ensure the battery is not being discharged. We have test units that show practically no self discharge after almost 3 years of storage. Not only is trickle charging not suggested, it can in some cases damage your battery AND SHOULD NOT BE USED."
so i messed up. i know a lot of you are wondering why someone would keep using their product at this point. it does start up every time without hesitation (even on 25 degree mornings) as long as you take proper care and it hasn't been significantly drained. this is the catch. i have drained their batteries, jump started them, and did not use proper storage procedure. i'm not a bad person, though, i swear. is it completely my fault? would i have had the same problems with an OEM battery? these are the aftermarket items i have on my bike that could be drawing excess charge on the battery: LED accent lighting, HID headlight system, and LED passing lights/spotlights. my accent lighting claims to draw 0.2 amps while in use, but i don't know what the other lights do. and regardless if the battery is still within its 2-year warranty or if passed, the company advises a customer to contact them if their battery ever drops below 8 volts and is unable to be charged and they will fix it free of charge. so i am currently waiting to hear back from them about this. should i stick with them or move on if i have to buy another battery?
sorry for the long back story. back to my original question. should i invest in a battery cutoff switch? i'd rather have one with a remote so i don't have to take off my seat to manually switch it on every time i get off my bike, or have to install a switch in some unsightly place near on the side of the bike. i read that one remote controlled switch actually draws some charge itself while it's working which actually defeats the purpose. so far, i've only found one other option - it claims to either be used with the remote, or automatically shut off the battery if it ever reads the voltage drop to 12 volts. does this look like a good product? will it also draw from the battery or have some negative impact that i'm not realizing?