Pinning handlebars - any reason not to? - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Pinning handlebars - any reason not to?

I bought a set of Canyon Dancer Straps Welcome to Canyon Dancer, Inc. - Home of the original Bar-Harness. for my 1300 Deluxe, and the first time I used them I found that they caused my handlebars to rotate down out of position. The first time I used them I had ratcheting straps and maybe I pulled the straps too tight, so now I switched to the spring-loaded jaw style pull tight strap.

When the handlebars rotated the first time it was a pain to get them back into position because the fairing sort of blocks access to the handlebar mounting clamps. The bars are back in position and the clamps are tight now.

So, I'm wondering if it is okay to "pin" the handlebars so they never rotate accidently again. I just don't want to weaken the bars or clamps by drilling and pinning them.

Googling "pinning handlebars" it seems that many do it (mostly with ape bars) - so are there any downsides?

-Mike
2014 V-Star 1300 Deluxe, Bag guards and trim rails, Custom Dynamic LED tail/turn, Signal Dynamics BackOff module, Pathblazer headlight strobe, Yamaha Passing Lamps, E.D. Pass seat. Memphis Shades lowers, O2 sensor by-pass.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 12:58 PM
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I've done it before on off road bikes. Never had an issue.

2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), Cobra Slash Cut full exhaust, Dropped 1 inch with lowering links, ORK, 4.5 inch handlebar risers, Ultimate passenger seat, Passenger pegs moved forward 4 inches, Handlebar clock, KN air filter, Viking saddlebags, Additional rear lighting
Loose nut "me" behind the bars
2006 Harley Electra Glide Ultra Classic

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks lesblank. I've seen pictures (other brand bikes) where the top saddle clamp is drilled and tapped for a 1/4-20 setscrew - also where its drilled and a 3/16 roll pin is hammer in.

-Mike
2014 V-Star 1300 Deluxe, Bag guards and trim rails, Custom Dynamic LED tail/turn, Signal Dynamics BackOff module, Pathblazer headlight strobe, Yamaha Passing Lamps, E.D. Pass seat. Memphis Shades lowers, O2 sensor by-pass.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 03:26 PM
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Setscrews suck!

the only thing they are good for is the volume control on a radio knob

if you are going to drill it, drill it all the why thru both sides and pin it

at that point you might as well weld it in place
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCW View Post
Setscrews suck!

the only thing they are good for is the volume control on a radio knob

if you are going to drill it, drill it all the why thru both sides and pin it

at that point you might as well weld it in place
KCW, your a knowledgeable guy and I respect your opinion - but I think you are being sarcastic (I can't tell)

Obviously I don't want to weld the bars. So are you you serious about drill all the way through?

-Mike
2014 V-Star 1300 Deluxe, Bag guards and trim rails, Custom Dynamic LED tail/turn, Signal Dynamics BackOff module, Pathblazer headlight strobe, Yamaha Passing Lamps, E.D. Pass seat. Memphis Shades lowers, O2 sensor by-pass.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 09:58 AM
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It's common for people to use set screws without any issues... bars are drilled with even larger holes to route cables internally and that doesn't result in any handelbar weaknesses.
However the problem isn't with handlebar lengths per se, it's that the clamps bottom out prematurely so no matter how hard the bolts are torqued, the clamps can't bite into the handlebars any more. The fix is to grind some material from the bottom of the clamps to open up the gaps. Also when strapping a bike down, use the triple trees and not the handlebars or at the very least get the straps as close to the handlebar clamps as possible.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 10:03 AM
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If I were going to put a rolled pin in I would drill it all the way thru, that way you get twice the strength and then some.

If its only pinned on one side as the two surfaces try to slide against each other there is nothing holding the pin straight and it will twist and work itself loose easier. When its pinned all the way thru, the pin is held straight and will have less give if the bars are twisted hard. Its a matter of leverage being applied over about 1/8" between the two surfaces, or more than an inch, if its all the way thru and held from both sides.

Personally I would be inclined to take a step back and try to figure out why the bars wont lock down from being properly torqued on the hex bolts. If the handle bars are slightly too small in diameter and the gap on the mount is closing all the way, you cant squeeze it any tighter.

Use to run into this a lot with Stingray (hi rise) handle bars on bicycles when i was a teenager. Sometimes you had to put a shim around the handlebar to open the gap on the stem a bit more. A very thin shim, like aluminum foil, could be enough to open up the gap enough to get enough squeeze on it (at least on a bicycle).

If it was a dirt bike or an ATV, and the stem and handlebars were clean steel (not chromed)... I might be temped to braze it in place If I was having a problem with it coming loose.

The comment was really more to point out that once you pin it in place, its there forever (no way to adjust it again), so its permanent as if it were welded in one position.

EDIT: one more thing: If you are going to drill the mount and handlebars to put a pin in, you need to take them off the bike and secure them in a vise in a quality drill press or mill. If you do it with a hand drill, and drill it all the way thru, the top hole will be washed out and sloppy, and the rolled pin will never seat in tight and snug.

Last edited by KCW; 11-30-2018 at 10:21 AM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 10:12 AM
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To be clear on set screws, if you drill it all the way thru and put a bolt and nut in the hole, that is not a set screw. Unless you get the bolt seated on the shoulder (no threads where its trying to stop the bars from moving) the threads will be taking all the side load and will crush much easier than the shaft/shoulder of the bolt.

Technically a set screw would be if you drilled and tapped the mount (stem) with the handlebars removed, and then inserted them so the set screw will mash into the side surface of the handlebars and dig in somewhat. That wont work very well. The threads where you tapped it will easily deform with any side load if the bars start to twist again.

The best solution for something with a lot of leverage, like 2' ape hangers, would be a key way in the handlebars and in the mount/stem that locks it in one position, or a spline in the middle.

Last edited by KCW; 11-30-2018 at 10:15 AM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 01:17 PM
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i heard sandpaper under the cap would hold it. i would try a piece of inner tube
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