Do you winterize your bike. - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
View Poll Results: Do you winterize your bike?
Yes 😠😢 6 30.00%
No, I ride year round 14 70.00%
Voters: 20. You may not vote on this poll

 26Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
Moderator
 
lesblank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,768
Garage
Do you winterize your bike.

Some of us are blessed with reasonable weather to enjoy riding year round while others are forced into putting their bike into hibernation during winter. So just a quick pole to see the percentage. In Houston we get a few freezes but nothing that last long. I ride everyday to work with one simple rule, is it raining when I leave you work. If it is I cage it, don't like riding in rain at 5am in Houston traffic, riding in rain on way home is no big deal. I cage it about twice a month.
Scrumdown likes this.

2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), Cobra Slash Cut full exhaust, Dropped 1 inch with lowering links, ORK, 4.5 inch handlebar risers, Ultimate passenger seat, Passenger pegs moved forward 4 inches, Handlebar clock, KN air filter, Viking saddlebags, Additional rear lighting
Loose nut "me" behind the bars
2006 Harley Electra Glide Ultra Classic

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home
lesblank is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 02:12 PM
Member
 
Grizzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Latrobe, PA
Posts: 54
Les, my last ride was Dec. 2. It was 64* and I went for couple hours. Brought her home pulled her into garage. The next morning I put her on the lift did oil change, checked valves, and synched carbs. I do this every year at end of season to make sure she is ready to go in spring. This time I also change carb intake boots cause they were starting to crack. I stabilized gas and pulled her into corner of garage for a long winters nap. It will be a long winter but as Spring approaches I start to feel like a kid at Christmas time. "anticipation" For now I can only look at her once in a while just to get rid of the withdrawal syndrome.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0358.jpg
Views:	36
Size:	95.1 KB
ID:	83018  
lesblank likes this.

PEACE and BLESSINGS
Grizzer is online now  
post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 04:08 PM
KCW
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 4,967
Garage
you might have jumped the gun with the carb intake boots

they have two layers, the inside layer maintains the vacuum, the outside layer is a plastic/rubber coating that might look like hell, but it wont leak unless the inside layer has failed.
KCW is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 05:08 PM
Senior Member
 
NorthernRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,960
Garage
Mine went into hibernation in November, only a few days before the first snowfall (very early this year). I just added Stabil, took out the battery (unheated garage), stuffed some rags in the exhaust pipes to keep the critters out, and put the cover on her. I'll trickle charge the battery for about 24 hours once a month, roll the bike a little to keep the tires from flatspotting, and count the long winter days until late April or May. I'll do a service in the spring.

The riding club I joined last fall is trying to get me to go on a polar bear run Jan 1st, but with all the salt on the roads I'm not biting, even if the pavement is bare. I work in a train yard and when we drive our shunt trucks down the paved pad there's a cloud of salt dust behind us. I don't need that getting into every nook and cranny and rusting my bike. Spring will be here... someday.
Grizzer likes this.

Paul
2007 Vulcan Nomad
V&H exhaust

2000 V Star 1100 Classic (Sold)
All stock except for:
Kuryakyn Grips
4" Risers
Switchblade Quick Release Windshield
Ugly but somewhat functional saddlebags
NorthernRider is online now  
post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 06:18 PM
Member
 
Grizzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Latrobe, PA
Posts: 54
KCW, Don't really feel like I jumped the gun. I don't like to work on bike during the riding season or wait for something to fail before replacing. Saw the boots were cracking pretty good, have 2 sets in the garage so I threw them on. Feels more like piece of mind to me.
lesblank and Scrumdown like this.

PEACE and BLESSINGS
Grizzer is online now  
post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 06:56 PM
KCW
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 4,967
Garage
If you still have the ones you took off, if you dont mind take a close look at them.

This comes up a few times every year, someone sees the surface cracks on the carb tubes and replaces them, thinking they have failed. So far I dont think anyone has taken them off and found the inner tube layer was bad. It might be an aluminum tube on the inside.

Its a 3 hour job to pull the carbs off the bike, if thats the only reason its being done. If you are adjusting the valves and have the carbs off anyway, its not a big deal to replace them, and they are not that expensive.
KCW is offline  
post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 07:57 AM
Member
 
Grizzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Latrobe, PA
Posts: 54
KCW, I have found out over the years I have ridden the 1100 that once the boots begin to crack from heat, fuel, weather, time etc. it s better to go ahead and change them. Remember there is an 'o' ring behind them that degrades also, shrinks and flattens. The metal vacuum tubes that stick out of the boots can develop microscopic minute leaks around them also. I had an issue years ago with erratic high idle. I checked all vacuum lines, boots, clamps etc. I finally took a look at intake boots and they were cracked. You could not see any internal cracks as you stated but they were obviously degrading. I changed them out and bike was back to normal. Many guys will reuse 'o' rings a from valve covers and timing gear covers and such and just like the boots the rings are usually stiffening up and flat, just the ticket for a leak. On the 1100 you just take off the seats and tank, and airbox, unhook fuel lines, and AIS hose from rear boot. You can leave all cables and anything else attached to carbs. Pull the carbs out to the left, zip tie the up to frame and remove and replace boots. Remember to soap up new boots when you reinstall carbs, makes things a lot easier. About 1.5 hr job at most once you have done it before.
lesblank likes this.

PEACE and BLESSINGS
Grizzer is online now  
post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 08:18 AM
KCW
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 4,967
Garage
I agree with the oring replacement. Last time I did the valves on my 650 the rear tappet cover started to ooze. Fortunately that is the only tappet cover you can finesse off the heads without taking the carbs off again (10 minutes vs 2 hour job). Next time I do them Im going to leave off the fake plastic chromed head covers. That will allow me to check and adjust the two exhaust valves without removing anything from the bike, and if they are out of adjustment then I will pull the carbs off to get the two intake valves.

Last time I did the valves they were still in spec after 12,000 miles. I hate to spend two hours to get a feeler gauge on the tappets just to find out they dont need to be adjusted.

But, yeah - Im sold on new orings all around if you cannot get to them without taking half the bike apart.

I realize Im getting off the winterize subject a bit here, but these are the things you discover when you start "prepping" the bike for winter. I would rather work on my bike when I cant ride it, than to have the a great January Thaw week and then find out there is a problem with the bike.

I joke about having to take the crash bar off Ursa to get it thru the front door, so I can park it in my living room "as needed". I do have a propane space heater I can use in the garage to work on vehicles, as long as you are withing a few feet of it, it throws out a nice infra-red zone of warmth.
lesblank and Grizzer like this.

Last edited by KCW; 12-15-2018 at 09:14 AM.
KCW is offline  
post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 08:33 AM
KCW
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 4,967
Garage
... the heater comment brings up another point: some people feel the need to start their bike up in the garage during winter storage to get things splashed around and fluids flowing. The owners manual for our bikes specify the temp range (over night cold soak temp) for the different oil ranges, and for both my bikes it says that 20W40 oil is only good down to 40F. If you want to be strict about it, that means dont start your engine if its 39F or below overnight with 20W40 oil in the engine. If you have a space heater and you really feel compelled to spin that crank when its 0F outside, warm the bike up first. And then remember that oil pressure coming off the oil pump is a function of RPM, rev it up a little to build the oil pressure, dont let it just sit there and idle when its cold.

There have been a few discussions about this, and there are many websites that try to spec what oils are good down to what temperatures, but motorcycle engines, esp air cooled engines, have much wider tolerances on the parts than car engines, or water cooled engines. The critical design issue is whether the oil pump can push cold (thick) oil all the way to the furthest bearings in the heads and transmission parts when you start it up in the cold. If the oil doesnt make it to that last bearing journal the shaft will be sitting there spinning metal on metal, doing a lot of damage.

Its better to let the bike hibernate on those cold winter days, than to try to keep waking it up, if you have a cold garage.

If its in your living room, just open the windows a bit :^)
Grizzer likes this.

Last edited by KCW; 12-15-2018 at 09:17 AM.
KCW is offline  
post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-15-2018, 10:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 445
I have always changed my oil for summer and winter. Using oil good down to atleast 20f for winter.
Worse is you have to let the bike get hot if you do start it in the winder without driving it. The humidity you just sucked in, will do a lot of damage if the engine doesn't get properly warm enough to dry all that humidity up after you turn the bike back off.
lesblank likes this.
patrickdk is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome