silicone sealant - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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silicone sealant

any of you use general clear silicone sealant when doing electrical soldering? or any electrical connections? from what i'm reading, it is an excellent insulator where cured/hardened, but while it is in gel form (fresh out of the tube) it can be corrosive to some metals if it contains acetic acid. i'm having to re-solder my resistors to the capacitors of my LED spotlights since 3/4 of them vibrated off the connection. i'm using some loctite clear silicone waterproof sealant to basically hold them in place to the insides of the light housings. looks like i will need to buy some "neutral cure", "non-corrosive", or "non-acidic" sealant to apply directly to the capacitor that the resistors are soldered to help keep the connections from vibrating loose.


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Last edited by bevo1981; 06-22-2019 at 04:35 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:23 PM
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Four year degree in Electronics Technology and I did not know that! I've often thought about using silicone that way, though. Thanks for the tip!

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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i would do some research on it first. i do not have a degree in electronics and am i just going by what some others have posted. and i am great at finding ways to screw things up with regards to my bike and life in general.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:48 PM
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I've used clear waterproof silicone inside electrical boxes out side where water was causing shorts. I fill the box up 100% with it a few years ago, never had a short after that. Worked good for me.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 06:59 PM
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Did some digging and found the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electro...gateway&sr=8-3


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 09:19 PM
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if you are going to glue down parts that will not get hot, then hot glue works well

epoxy is also a good choice, and it wont melt if the parts get warm

the thing you have to be careful of, if part like that big resistor creates a lot of heat, then you dont want to encapsulate it so the heat cannot dissipate

if you have a board assembly that is subject to vibration, as long as its all low power stuff, and nothing gets hot, you can pot the entire board with epoxy, like a brick.

if you need to do that with hi power parts that will get hot, there is special potting material that is heat conductive , but its expensive.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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i decided to go with the GE 100% waterproof/weatherproof clear silicone for the electrical connection. not what i was expecting. the loctite silicone you can see here comes out as a gel and is easily moldable to the 'stems' of the resistor and able to provide damping. but the GE stuff came out in liquid form and kind of ran out all over the area i applied it to. well hopefully this will be good enough.


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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OK so apparently that liquid stuff that first came out of the GE weatherproof sealant tube was just some type of separation from the actual sealant. like the watery stuff in a mustard or ketchup bottle before you get to the good stuff.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:02 PM
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Uh, that's not supposed to happen! I'm sorry, I just can't help but to laugh at that. The ketchup/mustard analogy did me in!

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lesblank View Post
Did some digging and found the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electro...gateway&sr=8-3

That would be the correct stuff Les. Also, you should have used heat shrink or a piece of wire insulation around your leads right up to the solder connection.
Some other great advice is, put dielectric grease in ALL your plug connectors wherever you can reach them. It keeps any moisture out of the joint and prevents contact (pin) corrosion.

Last edited by ChiefGunner; 06-23-2019 at 05:19 PM.
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