I do “lurk” over there and “pop in” because I can’t stand to see NEW unaware SVTC owners or prospective owners get a bunch of negative info.
I did ask about his serial number so we can see if there’s a pattern.
Why His is taking a few months instead of a few weeks is odd.... unless I got the only available spare cam?? Or possibly they pulled it off another bike. It should be noted the guy having the problem is located in Canada.
It should be noted I held the old parts in my hand when I took the picture so I KNOW they were replaced!
Chief, given that he noticed sounds coming AFTER his 600 miles first oil change, I am wondering outloud with the following;
Did the mechanic, OR...apprentice,, or merely a shop hand 'gopher', perform the oil change, and did they put in the proper EXACT amount back through the accesss oil plug in the top of the crankcase? That's my first outright question. Secondly, HOW much oil was put into the oil tank...and was the bike held level on the floor via a lift, or on the lift table via the front tire 'cradle' while oil was put in, (at the EXACT amount specified between the crankcase pour in port, and the oil tank itself, and then, did they RUN the bike at least for 5-7 minutes to allow all the oil to circulate throughout the long oil path travel, from the engine scavenger pump, out the line to the oil cooler, and then the long oil pathway back to the oil tank...and so forth?
I think on this particular bike, allowing the oil, after an oil change to circulate its pathway, one to two times in volume,----> is critical for a proper oil change and final oil level dip stick check in the oil tank, and of course as Yamaha states...and we new owners all know, that the bike must be dead level, for any oil level dip sticking, read out!
My best advice to all, is that if you do not do the oil changes yourself....and follow all the above, that you INSIST, you watch the entire procedure to make sure you see your bike being kept level and vertical, when the oil is being added, and that enough run time is on that oil, for a proper course run, a couple of times, along the oil return path, so any air, etc, is allowed to be pushed ahead of the oil path, and you get a proper dip stick oil tank reading, which should (by already rider and owner histronics, be at the MID point between the high and low hash mark, and not right at the top, 'out of the dealership'
Also, to all owners, we first adopters have found that on this particular bike, you need to 'dip' the oil tank, and take your dip stick reading, AFTER any ride, and not before, assuming that you knew first in the oil addition cycle, that there was enough oil in the oil tank coming from the dealer, or your last oil change at home. This bike needs to be at full engine operating temperature!!!--------->before you take a dip stick oil tank reading. This is very important, as we all have found out by usage-ownership.
If an owner does not have a portable bike lift, one thing they can do, (and this is a cheap solution), is to go to a car junk yard, and buy TWO common tire scissor jacks, and place either one mid way point under the engine frame, and raise both up simultaneously, to keep the bike level at home, but NOT to raise the tires off the ground. That is the cheap way to do it, other than going out and buying a true motorcycle lift that can actually lift elevate both tires off the ground for tire changes, etc. I have a lift, so I only jack Charlotte up enough to keep her dead vertical, but not enough to lift the front and back tires off of the garage floor.
Another way, is for adding the proper amount of oil in both the crankcase and then the oil tank, and then with the left tour bag lid open, and a shop towel in your hand, sit on the bike, let it run for about 7 minutes at idle. Then turn the engine off, let it sit for about two to three minutes, and then with your left hand, dip the stick, (not screwed in at all) and take your reading level. That works great when out on tour, as I do this each evening after we head into lodging, and unpacking the bike. I place a shop towel fore, and aft of the dip stick to catch any drip that might come off the dip stick as I am astride the bike, and take the reading, with another shop towel (or Kleenex) in my right hand, to wipe the dip stick before putting it to the dip stick hole and then making sure I don't double thread it...and turn it 'to bed'. Just some suggestions...but I wonder, if the shop screwed up the oil change on this poor Canadian's bike. It doesn't seem to be mileage related, for even if this chap could put a thousand miles (unlikely) after the oil change before he noticed symptoms....Chief had over 5,000 miles (not kilo's) before HIS symptoms on the aft cylinder running gear showed up. So...in closing, I think that each and every oil change procedure on this bike, is absolutely critical to be done right...how much is put into the crankcase, how much is put into the oil tank, and the quality and viscosity of the oil as well.
My take, anyways....while waiting back to see what the last four digits of this chap's SVTC is. That also will be telling, and if his last four digits are over 0500, then we know that it possibly could be HOW the oil change on this engine is done...and not merely the first 500 production bikes that were re-built for the leaking crank case joining gasket. Personally, I'm really hoping that his serial number comes in at the 600 plus range, for my very own Charlotte is under 0500, and so of course if there is a trend, it will raise my level of concern, and to watch out for any signs (operational noises, not right) myself. So, crossing my fingers that his bike is beyond the first 500, which then will lead to other possible reasons (that I mention) other than the hand-rebuilt series. I'm hoping to read that....but again, so sorry to also read that this fellow and the Chief even HAD this come up. What a bummer. Also, YooperMoose has many thousands of miles on his ride...and some through grueling road and atmospheric conditions...and hasn't reported on this or the other venture forum, any of what is being discussed here. That is also most encouraging that this could be a very minor 'few' out of the thousands produced, OR...this could concern EVERY owner, if the oil change procedure is not faithfully followed EACH and EVERY oil change for the life of the motor.
Post Edit: I am thinking as coffee is flowing through my veins (LOL), that on this particular ride, ...it is in the owner's best interest to ONLY be the one to change out the oil and filter on this ride. Then...you know...you take your time, you do it right...and KNOW that it was done right...oil put back into the crankcase, oil put back into the tank...and the proper way to check the final oil volume in the tank....yep....and if going out on tour, you make sure as the owner, that the oil life, will last the tour mileage...and if not, you change your oil BEFORE you take that extended two week road trip....just so you do NOT have to take it into a shop while upon Tour. That's what I'm going to make my personal SVTC Oil Change M.O.! Yep...yep.....