Darksiding SVTC - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Darksiding SVTC

Thought I'd post some thoughts while they are still fresh. I installed a Bridgestone 205/55/16 Run-Flat today. I am not new to the darkside, I have over 100k miles on the darkside but have been back on a MC tire since I bought the SVTC. My first thought today when I took a test ride was it is so much smoother! My second thought was Whoaa, it won't turn! I had gotten used to the MC tire. After 5 miles I no longer notice the extra input to turn. Speedo is dead on and I have the knowledge that a flat rear tire will not leave me on the side of the road. Nice to be back.
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Rob - 18 Raspberry SVTC, 08 Pearl White Navi Goldwing

Last edited by Bucfan11; 03-31-2019 at 07:09 AM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 12:05 AM
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I know you didn't mean it that way, but "it won't turn" of your words sometimes perpetuates the idea that there is a big difference. It's like when one poster said to me: "How do you manage to go around turns?" To which I replied: "No problem. I just stop at the beginning of the turn and push the bike around until the road is straight again. Then get back on."

Now I (we?) know you didn't mean that literally, and did also mention the "extra input." But I find that so many of the unwashed actually do, at least in the back of their minds, think they are going to have "problems" by using a car tire. I prefer to explain it that, yes, it is a little different, but not only is a new mt "different" from the worn one you just took off, every turn you make on the highway is a little different. It becomes so that just as you adjust to the different road conditions, you also adjust to the different feel of the ct.

Like you, I like having a tire that not only can I run with 28# in it, and is sooo much safer being a run flat, but is going to last me for probably 25,000 miles--likely twice what a mt would last. Even forget that the total cost was somewhere less than the mt, especially if you bought the OEM replacement from the dealer (the only place to get one) at like $350., tire only.

Did you get a Driveguard?

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 06:15 AM
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I use my VS650 mostly for commuting. The rear tire tends to wear down so there is a 3" wide section in the middle that is mostly flat buy the time its ready for a new rear time.

can feel the difference between that and a new bridgestone MC tire

the best I can describe it, with the old tire that has worn flat in the center it takes more steering input to get it rolled to the lip, like it wants to go straight. With the new tire pressure on the grip is directly proportional to the lean on the bike, there is no discontinuity leaning the bike back and forth from side to side.

also with a new MC tire the bike does not go straight by itself as solidly, when I take my hands off the grips - its a subtle difference, but its there. Its not that the bike is going to fall over, motorcycles are self balancing, but they are not self-steering. The flatter the wear on the rear tire, the more the bike feels 'locked in' going straight.

Last edited by KCW; 03-31-2019 at 06:17 AM.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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Agreed! I have always described it as the same but different, like riding someone else's bike. After a few miles you are good.
I rode a few miles this morning on the new Driveguard and am already completely comfortable.
Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

Rob - 18 Raspberry SVTC, 08 Pearl White Navi Goldwing
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 07:58 AM
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you will be our new darkside mileage test then

the one thing that blindsided me when I started riding, I expected motorcycles to be a little less expensive to operate than a car. My Vs650 gets 58 to 60mpg the way I ride (its stock). The first time I had the tires changed, I got dunlops from the dealer and let them do the full job. I forget the exact cost, between $400 to $500 (and dunlop are the "cheap" tires at the dealer).

When I worked out the math, if I get 12k miles on the rear tire and 20k miles on the front, I am spending as much for tires per mile as I am for gasoline. So any money saved by getting 60mpg is lost on the expensive tires.

The next time I went full over and bought tires online (bikeBandit) and got bridgestone OEMs for less than the Dunlop 404s cost at the dealer, and I not only took the wheels off the bike myself, I changed the tires myself using sweat, Windex and shear willpower. The cost then was about half as handing the bike to the dealer, and I got better tires. Since then I have been buying the tires online and taking the wheels in to let the shop mount them - the happy medium.

Im sure you will get more than 12k miles on you rear tire now. If you can get the rear tire to wear out the same as the front, thats a 2X increase on my bike. Let us know how this goes.

The caveat: If you ever decide to quit this forum, you are obliged to find this thread and tell us you stopped posting (for whatever reason). Otherwise websites all over will be pointing to this thread for the next 20 years and saying "Bucfan went darkside and he was never heard from again.... :^O

Edit: I like the photos of your bike, esp with the wheel off and the only tool in sight is a pair of channel locks

we use to say you can swap out the engine in an air cooled VW beetle with a large flat blade screw driver, and a pair of Vice Grips

you have taken it to new levels :^)
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Last edited by KCW; 03-31-2019 at 10:25 AM.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 02:38 PM
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...

we use to say you can swap out the engine in an air cooled VW beetle with a large flat blade screw driver, and a pair of Vice Grips

...
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Why did you used to say that? Did you come into the house and your wife say, "Honey, do you have anything to say about swapping out the engine in an air cooled VW beetle?"

But seriously, you think what you outlined above is expensive, consider that your $30,000. bike, let's presume 5 years and 100,000 miles, is costing you $6,000. per year or $.30 per mile. That's right. Our gas, oil, tires, insurance, license, and repairs cost $.20 in addition. In addition! It ain't cheap!

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 02:52 PM
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A motorcycle is expensive because having the shop put tires on my 550 lb VS650 cost about $450.

I paid $3300 for the bike with 9k miles on the odo, and expect to be able to ride it another 90,000 miles at least.

It gets 60mpg commuting, which is a good start, and full insurance is less than $100 / year.

My 4000 lb Ford Fusion gets tires every 35,000 miles, and it only cost $400 to have them replaced at a tire shop.

I paid $28,000 for the car new and expect to drive it 200k miles at least

The fact that 2 tires for a 550 lb vehicle cost MORE than 4 tires for a 4000 lb vehicle makes motorcycle tires very expensive.

Unless you get a great deal on a used motorcycle, and do all the work yourself, and are willing to ride on chinese tires that you mount yourself with a pair of tire irons, all the other aspects of owning a motorcycle cost about the same as a 5 passenger sedan.

Because the mechanic at the motorcycle shop and the mechanic at the Ford dealership both need to eat and live in a house, and send their kids to college.

The perception that a little 550lb motorcycle should be inexpensive to own and ride is an illusion.

If I could take my yamaha to walmart and have them put two car tires on the bike, for $200 out the door, and they would last for 40,000 miles, that would be something.

Last edited by KCW; 03-31-2019 at 02:55 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 02:55 PM
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In the words of the lion in Wizard of OZ, "Ain't that the truth?"

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 09:18 PM
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I just got a new 205/55RF16 Bridgestone Driveguard on my Eluder. Fits just fine. No rubbing or bottoming out. My speedo seems to be right on now. My odometer reads about 1.7% over actual mileage. Measured with my gps.

I'm running 30# in it which seems to corner well and doesn't follow ridges in the road much at all. It does take more effort to make turns, but it's not a problem.

I also balanced it with 16oz. of Ride_On sealant/balancer. I do also use Hawkshead tpms which supposedly are pretty accurate. As to measuring, I talked to the manufacturer on accuracy. He said a number of folks have returned items they said were inaccurate, but when they tested them they were all spot on. He told me of the way they test. I mention this as my main gauge was compared to four different gauges from tire shops in town. All said theirs was totally accurate. Not only were they all different from mine, but some were as much as 3# difference. At some point you have to decide who to believe.

Along those lines, my tires heat up on a moderate day (75 today) about 4# when warm. So even if your bike is low a couple of # when you start out, you'll be over the cold normal pressure real soon. So maybe that cold pressure isn't as important as we like to think.

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Last edited by RonK; 05-25-2019 at 09:20 PM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonK View Post
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I just got a new 205/55RF16 Bridgestone Driveguard on my Eluder. Fits just fine. No rubbing or bottoming out. My speedo seems to be right on now. My odometer reads about 1.7% over actual mileage. Measured with my gps.

I'm running 30# in it which seems to corner well and doesn't follow ridges in the road much at all. It does take more effort to make turns, but it's not a problem.

I also balanced it with 16oz. of Ride_On sealant/balancer. I do also use Hawkshead tpms which supposedly are pretty accurate. As to measuring, I talked to the manufacturer on accuracy. He said a number of folks have returned items they said were inaccurate, but when they tested them they were all spot on. He told me of the way they test. I mention this as my main gauge was compared to four different gauges from tire shops in town. All said theirs was totally accurate. Not only were they all different from mine, but some were as much as 3# difference. At some point you have to decide who to believe.

Along those lines, my tires heat up on a moderate day (75 today) about 4# when warm. So even if your bike is low a couple of # when you start out, you'll be over the cold normal pressure real soon. So maybe that cold pressure isn't as important as we like to think.

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I have about 4000 miles on my driveguard now. It is not on of my favorite tires. I had a run flat on my Wing I loved but dont remember which one as I always try something different. I'll have to look up my purchase history and buy it again when the driveguard wears out.

Rob - 18 Raspberry SVTC, 08 Pearl White Navi Goldwing
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