Royal Star Valve Adjustment/Check - Page 2 - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
kam
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Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 22
I’m knee deep in my first ever valve adjustment. Ordered all parts in advance and had them shipped to the house.

I’ll update this thread with progress and some lessons learned from my attempt in the event that someone else needs to do their valve checks on their bike! After all, these bikes are still rolling around today,l.

First off, would I do it again? Yes.

Is it hard? Yes.

Will you need to take your time? Yes.

Don’t rush through anything. I found that’s when I made the most mistakes.

Lessons learned:

1. Harbor Freight has the perfect feeler gauge for this job. I went to Autozone and Advance and they had feeler gauges, but not to the spec that the manual calls for.

Harbor Freight Feeler Gauge: https://www.harborfreight.com/Feeler...-Pc-63665.html

2. After you check what size shim rests in the engine, you have to put that same (incorrect) shim back in the engine until you have the correct shim you need to swap in hand, ready to be inserted. I made the mistake of pulling two shims out, and noticed that the lifter pad of the first shim I had pulled, was interfering with the cam lobe, and panic ensued. I worked the tool back and forth to get the pad back in. It seems though that you must re-insert that shim back in though. In other words, there must be a shim present at all times while manually spinning the crankshaft so that the cam love does not interfere with the lifter pad.

Cam lobe: This is the angled, rotating piece of aluminum.

Lifter pad: this is the piece of aluminum that the shim “sits” in.

3. Put screws back in their respective holes when unscrewing things. It’ll help you button the bike up later.

As I’m still working on the bike, I’ll continue to update!
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
kam
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Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 22
I do have one question though:

It seems like in order for me to get the tappet tool inserted, I must turn the crank counter clockwise and insert/guide the tool into position.

I’ve assumed that in order to remove it, I must rotate the engine clockwise to remove? Is this correct?

I’m just looking to confirm as the engine normally spends counter clockwise and not clockwise.

Thanks!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
kam
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Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 22
Out of the 16 valves, only two were within spec.

I created the attached “map/drawing” of the bike from a top down perspective to help with mapping the clearances and their respective locations on the bike, where:

Red: outside spec
Green: within spec
Yellow: Falling on either end of the spec
Blue: Scratch notes/Relevant info

Some shims I swapped out with another valve, and others I had to pick up from the local motorcycle shop.

Anyone have any idea on how to replace the foam gaskets that were around the crankcase breather/air plenums? Mine are coated in oil and are falling apart.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 12:14 PM
KCW
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Im dont know about having to turn the crank to insert the tool.

Make sure you know which way the engine is suppose to crank, I have not read the manual for the V4 engine but I know at least some of the Vtwins spin in the opposite direction of the front wheel. This is very unusual on motorcycles. Normally the flywheel spins in the same direction of the wheels to add to the gyroscopic forces that make the bike self balancing and stable. V star engineers decided the bikes needed to be more nimble, so by spinning the engine in the opposite direction it cancels out some of the rotational inertia of the front wheel, and makes the bike more responsive to pressure on the handlebar grips. The service manual should state clearly which way to hand crank the engine over (depending on which side has the wrench on the crankshaft). Again: check the service manual on this, I know the 650 and 1100 spin "backwards" - I dont know for the V4.

With a timing chain you do not want to spin the engine backwards, because the tensioner will go slack and the relationship between the crank and the cams will be several degrees off. I dont think its enough to cause the pistons to hit the valves while you are turning it over by hand, but the timing marks might not match exactly cam to crank when you turn it backwards. WHen doing the valves if I go past the mark I always go all the way around again, another 720 degrees.

About pulling the disks out to see what size they are: are they marked where you can see them in place, maybe spinning them a bit? Then you would be able to figure out what replacement size you need before you pull it out, and do it all at the same time. If they are not marked where you can see them, then if you write down what you put in for each one and keep that, then next time you will know what each one is.

Im not sure what the drawing numbers mean, but Im curious for the valves that were out of tolerance how far out were they? You have to measure the actual gap to determine what size disk is needed, right?

were any of them tight, or really tight? Its ok if valves get loose and noisy up to a point, but if they wear tighter eventually the valves will be held open, will backfire and burn the valve mating surfaces. Im wondering which way they tend to go? From my experience on air cooled engines they tended to wear looser and looser. Finding a tight one was unusual.

If they tend to wear and become loose the engine will get tappy, some performance will be lost because the valves are not opening as far as the could, but it wont hurt anything if you run a few thousand miles past the scheduled adjustment period. If they wear tight it could get very expensive to ignore the schedule.

The foam gaskets have to be a standard Yamaha maintenance part - from a dealer or an OEM parts website.

If I did not mention it before, any O rings between parts you took off, if the bike has several years on it then its cheap to replace the o rings compared to putting it all back together and then finding out one or more of them would not re-seal and now they leak. They do get stiff over the years, and will not seal sometimes when re-assembled. There is an o-ring pinch test you can do if you want to try to test them - google it, its a common topic of debate on motorcycles whether to re-use them or replace them.

Last edited by KCW; 06-17-2019 at 12:34 PM.
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