what kind of oil - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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what kind of oil

i am coming up on my first oil and filter change. i have decided on using 5w-40 rotella t synthetic. and changing it every 3000 miles. any one ever had problems with this oil? i have used it in other v-twins with no problems. price is no object. i would change every 1000 mile if i thought it was necessary. i used mobil1 10w -30 in my speedstar warrior with no problems. the engine looked like new when i tore it down to install the patrick racing pistons and speed star cams.
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 05:47 PM
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Oh no! One of the most dangerous threads of all: a dreaded "oil" thread!!



Rotella is an excellent oil and I have used it in many watercooled bikes without any problem.

In an aircooled engine, I prefer to have 50W for the hot viscosity. As Rotella doesn't market a dual viscosity 50W, I run mine on Valvoline 20W50 M/C oil, change oil and filter every 3000 miles.

Whatever you and anyone else wants to do is purely between you, them, and the piston rings.

Regards
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 07:43 PM
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Extra Virgin Olive Oil or 100% Canola oil.......

ohhh! for the bike, then yes, I agree with Springer ! lol
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 07:58 PM
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most people like to use one of the 20w50 motorcycle lubes. If you are going to change every 3000 miles then it doesn't have to be a synthetic. Your choice really. I use Brad Penn 20w50 racing oil in my strat because it has more ZDDP in it and I feel it helps it to shift better. Engine runs smoother also.
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 08:48 PM
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Zddp?

Is ZDDP one of the friction reducers we are not suposed to use in our motorcycles due to the wet clutch?

A few years back I used Lucas oil treatment for a one oil change. I believe it has ZDDP. My bike did shift easer. I stopped using it when I started reading about not using oil with friction reducers.

Dave
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-15-2011, 09:04 PM
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Is ZDDP one of the friction reducers we are not suposed to use in our motorcycles due to the wet clutch? 

A few years back I used Lucas oil treatment for a one oil change. I believe it has ZDDP. My bike did shift easer. I stopped using it when I started reading about not using oil with friction reducers. 
ZDDP is the old school anti-wear package that is still in all oils only in reduced quantities. Its been reduced because it is suppose to be bad for catalytic converters. We don't need to worry about that, since motorcycle oils have it already. It will not hurt our wet clutch.
The friction reducer you need to avoid is molybdemum.

Last edited by alpha-dog; 07-15-2011 at 09:07 PM.
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 12:35 AM
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Very interesting that's good info guys.I like threads like this.Thanks

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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-16-2011, 09:07 PM
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Don't know about Z's D's and P's, but they tell me to look at the bottle, if it say's "energy conserving" it becomes a no no for wet clutch applications Ride safe.
(at least that's what the big boys say)

Ride Safe, Live Long
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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a little perspective on friction modifiers, or our bitter enemy moledenum disulfide. this friction modifier is so slick and good that it reduces friction to the extent that it equals less power loss and less wear on engine components and improved gas mileage. many drag bikes run run 5w20 mobil1 because it gives them a slight hp. edge. as far as clutch slippage goes i have run 10w-30 mobil1 in most of my street bikes for years including my 08 gold wing. i have never ever had a clutch slippage problem. i ran it in my race prepped zx-14. the clutch slippage thing is blown way out of proportion. i will say that i ride conservatively on the street. zddp is zinc and phosphorus. it is the last resort barrier before you reach metal to metal contact. it has been around as long as i have. zddp is what makes gear lube smell like a rotten fart. on my liner i have decided to steer clear of moly cuz this thing produces so much torque and has such heavy fly wheel action on the crank that it could easily cook a clutch without friction modifiers. as far as thick oil goes, i don't believe in it in modern bike motors. being a machinist i have alot of experience with bearing clearance and lubrication. these new japanese engines run very close and precision tolerance on the bearing clearances. they have like .0015 to . 0025 clearance. it takes a very low vicosity oil to pass through that space and hold a lubrication barrier to prevent metal to metal contact. to high of a viscosity will starve the bearing of it's life blood, OIL. factories are not always right. humans work there and make decisions on what seems right to them.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by snarley bill View Post
a little perspective on friction modifiers, or our bitter enemy moledenum disulfide. this friction modifier is so slick and good that it reduces friction to the extent that it equals less power loss and less wear on engine components and improved gas mileage. many drag bikes run run 5w20 mobil1 because it gives them a slight hp. edge. as far as clutch slippage goes i have run 10w-30 mobil1 in most of my street bikes for years including my 08 gold wing. i have never ever had a clutch slippage problem. i ran it in my race prepped zx-14. the clutch slippage thing is blown way out of proportion. i will say that i ride conservatively on the street. zddp is zinc and phosphorus. it is the last resort barrier before you reach metal to metal contact. it has been around as long as i have. zddp is what makes gear lube smell like a rotten fart. on my liner i have decided to steer clear of moly cuz this thing produces so much torque and has such heavy fly wheel action on the crank that it could easily cook a clutch without friction modifiers. as far as thick oil goes, i don't believe in it in modern bike motors. being a machinist i have alot of experience with bearing clearance and lubrication. these new japanese engines run very close and precision tolerance on the bearing clearances. they have like .0015 to . 0025 clearance. it takes a very low vicosity oil to pass through that space and hold a lubrication barrier to prevent metal to metal contact. to high of a viscosity will starve the bearing of it's life blood, OIL. factories are not always right. humans work there and make decisions on what seems right to them.
Yamaha is recommending a 20w50 oil for the stratoliners now. Of course, you being a machinist I'm sure you have a good handle on flow rate of oils. Just another note, I was looking at a UOA on Brad Penn 20w50 with a 5000 mile OCI and it did thicken up some. That's a good reason to change it at 3000 miles. I've used both rotella 15w40 and amsoil 10w40 in my bike so far and feel that the rotella is better ( less noise ) than amsoil. I like the Brad Penn the best because the bike shift far better with it.
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