Hopefully and easy fix here ! - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Hopefully and easy fix here !

Hey Everyone, I just installed a set of HR1 risers last weekend, And they are great, easy install, and only two small swivel adjustments to find the right grip angle, then my hands and arms said YES.
Now for my issue, now my clutch is in full contact with only about 3/4 of an inch let out, So I'm in full clutch contact real close to the grip. What's going on here ?. Now the intructions had me laying the handlebars forward on top of the headlight assy, while unbolting the stock riser mounts, all was well here. Details. The clutch line was long enough, and still has some slack, a few inches, this riser set is up 1 and back 1. Now one problem I noticed is my brake line is tight enough to almost strike a note, but the hand brake works fine, I will probably buy a new longer brake line. Now back to the bars and clutch, while sitting upside down on the headlight assy, it naturally hangs the grips down, so I figured I have air in there somewhere, I hope.
And after digging through the maintenance manual, the cute pictures don't show any adjustments at the grip housing, also I don't have the fluid level window as shown in the manual, ?. I'm picking up some Dot 4 brake fluid tonight. I had my son help me last night in a basic bleed trick, didn't get any air at the clutch bleeder.
So I'm now thinking of the banjo connector at the grip, it's got to be air or bubbles at that spot, anyone have any thing like this happen. Now I have big hands, and just realized the clutch is somewhat harder now, not the silky smooth as before ?.. I hope I'm on the right thought process here. Note, I got stuck in very heavy traffic heading home last night and almost had to pull over to get the cramp out of my clutch hand, I have almost 5700 miles on the beast since 5 Aug 11, when I got the beast. Ok folks any other idea's out there ? Thanks.

07 Stratoliner S with MS Batwing, MS lowers, Buck lowers, custom large trunk rack, King tourpack trunk, air horn, See me Now tail light and headlight pulser mods. Led lighting all over. Night rider tail light setup on the trunk.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 09:53 AM
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Risers/clutch

Dcody,

I have a 1 1/2 rise and 5/8 rearward riser on my Liner. I did not encounter any problems. I am of the opinion that your 1 up an 1 back should be OK. I guess when the cables start to become a probelm you need to look at the routing. Maybe take them out of the guide to shorten the route.

I wonder if somewhere you have not seen the hydraulic line for the clutch got pinched? I would not think a little air would make the lever harder to pull. Although it does sound like you may have gotten some air in the line. The Liner does have a big clutch and does make your hand tired at first in traffic. I'm 5'11" and do don't have strong hands but I did get used to it. Bike is also comfortable for me. Nice to be able to move my feet on the boards a little. I have a crash bar but never felt the need for highway pegs.

Possibly when you layed the handlebars on on the light they got tilted so air got in the line. Be sure that brake cable did not get out of place when you had it forward. I understand it takes a lot to get all the air out. You need to be adding more fluid as you go.

I fooled myself on that check window. My handlebars were tilted down slightly so the window was covered fully. The bars would need to be level as well as the bike to use the window. If you take the top off with the bars tilted down fluid will run out. (News flash.)

I'm sure you know but. Brake fluid Will take off paint. So be carefull. When bleeding and removing the cover. Put a tube on the port and bleed into a bottle and cover painted things up.

As far as I know to move the clutch assembly you just loosen the mounting bolts and slide or rotate it on the handlebars. I think I have about a 1/8" gap between the grip and clutch/switch stuff. On the brake side you need to be careful not to restrict the movement of the throttle. You would be also moving the mirrors. This might be the primary goal in positioning the assembly. Since the mirrors seem to see a lot of my arm. I set my mirrors so I just see a little of my arm. Giving me a good look at the lanes on each side of me. If I want to see behind me I tilt my head a little, not much.

Dave
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 09:55 AM
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Linerwiki

The Linerwiki has a lot of info.

http://www.linerwiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

Dave
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Hey Dave, thanks for the strong reminder about being level.

I know I would have taken the cover off the master cylinder and then realized how stupid that was with the bike on the side stand, thank you so much for the Pre save. I guess I'm heading out for a lift, been trying to hold off on that, but oh well. Another thing that's a small pain, is holding the clutch lever while hitting the bleed screw, I do have long arms but damm. I'll find the problem, and I still don't see any view ports on either my brake or clutch cylinders. My bike is the 07 Strat S. did Yamaha do it different for other years ?.
I found with my 1 inch rise on the bars, and being level, now I only see just a hint of my shoulders or arms in my mirrors. So it's better now.
And I had also installed the Headlight pulser unit last weekend, wow, it's neat. I can see my headlight flashing in the road signs way out in front of me in the daytime. Very nice. And I also put in the SEE Me NOW brake light flasher unit, also very nice, I see people just staring at the small light show at the signal lights. So far so good.
Thanks for the help. I checked the wiki strat site, nothing found for the clutch issues. I'll let everyone know once I resolve this one.

07 Stratoliner S with MS Batwing, MS lowers, Buck lowers, custom large trunk rack, King tourpack trunk, air horn, See me Now tail light and headlight pulser mods. Led lighting all over. Night rider tail light setup on the trunk.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 12:00 PM
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If you pull the levers and tie then with zip ties and leave then sit overnight they will bleed the air into the top of the cylinders
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Now that's what I call a good idea !

I'll do this tonight, and let you know how it turns out.
I like the K.I.S.S. methods.

Oh and for Liner dave, on hose routing, one of the tricks mentioned with the HR1 riser kit was to either cut or just remove the cable guides in front of the triple tree's. to allow more slack for the cables.
This did the trick for having enough slack for the new bar location. And I'm behind a MS Batwind fairing so nobody can see the front top of the forks and triple tree anyway, unless I pull the fairing off.

Again, good tip and thanks..
I knew you guys would come through with all the good needed info.

07 Stratoliner S with MS Batwing, MS lowers, Buck lowers, custom large trunk rack, King tourpack trunk, air horn, See me Now tail light and headlight pulser mods. Led lighting all over. Night rider tail light setup on the trunk.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 03:21 PM
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Fluid level window

dcody,

I went out and looked to be sure. My bike is an 06, the window is on the rear of the reservoir, above but, between the lever pivot and the piston. It may not look like a window because it does not look directly into the reservoir and I can not see the level since the bars are tilted down.

The riser did also help me some. I would get a pinch like pain in the muscles on top my shouder and base of neck. But the only thing that got rid of it is to ride a lot. Touring bars might be an option. They are less spread and more to rear. I believe you sit more erect and arms bent. Riding my bicycle helps too. After a couple hours on that the seat and posture on the motorcycle seem great.

Dave
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2011, 11:44 PM
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I gravity bleed the system then did what 118 said and that seemed to work.

2007 Stratoliner S
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