Raider wonít start-fuel related issue? - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Raider wonít start-fuel related issue?

2009 Yamaha Raider s wont start since being ran two days ago. Bike ran briefly only with intermittent throttle but would run for only seconds at idle. The needle sweep on the odometer that normally occurs after the key is turned in the ignition is now sweeping after the key is switched to the off position from the on position. While the bike was running the other day, a faint blackish vapor puffed out with some back fires on initial cold start but cleared after being ran for a few minutes.

Let me know what you guys think could be going on.


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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 06:24 AM
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check the condition of the plugs and if there firing.is fuel getting to the plugs. check the battery.are you using the recommended fuel.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 10:49 AM
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If it were me I'd start with the basics. Change spark plugs, check plug wires, change air filter, oil and oil filter. While you're under the seat check all the hoses, electrical connections and battery.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 10:54 AM
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If it was running fairly normally, and then suddenly quit, then something has dropped out completely:

fuel pump, ignition (spark), or one of the fail safe sensors (like the kickstand)... unless you got some bad gas and sucked a puddle of water into the fuel pump.

Quote:
the speedometer is now sweeping after the key is switched to the off position from the on position...
if this is not normal then something in your ECM is wacked out.

check the voltage on your battery. If the battery is low, it might have enough to crank the starter, but the voltage might be too low for the ECM to function correctly.

another possibility, if the speedo is only suppose to sweep when the key is turned from off to on, and it does it when you turn the key from on to off, maybe your key switch is intermittent, so when you turn it off, it goes off-on-off-on-off...

Last edited by KCW; 05-23-2018 at 11:02 AM.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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When the key is put into the ignition the fuel pump is audible and I just put premium gas into the bike yesterday while it ran on said fresh gas. However I should mention the bike wasnít winterized (not a single fluid touched) and is probably due for an oil change. Oil dipstick was almost dry with just a drop at the end of the dipstick. No cracks in the housing of the fuel pump.


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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCW View Post
If it was running fairly normally, and then suddenly quit, then something has dropped out completely:

fuel pump, ignition (spark), or one of the fail safe sensors (like the kickstand)... unless you got some bad gas and sucked a puddle of water into the fuel pump.

if this is not normal then something in your ECM is wacked out.


ECU was just recently reflashed for the bike and I just did IVANS air box delete and K&N air filter.

The previous owner didnít tell me the quick link for the battery tender was made from remainder wire and solder. Removed and replaced with new quick link and charged battery overnight with tender. Bike wonít start since finding out about dead battery and recharging.


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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highwayman View Post
If it were me I'd start with the basics. Change spark plugs, check plug wires, change air filter, oil and oil filter. While you're under the seat check all the hoses, electrical connections and battery.


The bike didnít have an oil change for the winter like I usually do. Ran the bike on the old oil with old gasoline and new premium gasoline mixed with a dab of stabilizer.

Battery quick link was found broken so it never charged for the YEAR that it sat there for. Started just upgrading the airbox and put back my ECU that was reflashed and never updated the map on the PCV. Now bike wonít start and I canít update the PCV because the bike wonít start.

Battery seems to provide electrical and hold a charge now after charging and fuel pump makes audible noises when the key is turned to ON position in ignition. Added fresh oil to reservoir and nothing.

It almost sounds like the starter motor or something else may have blown.


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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 12:00 PM
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Xtreme AGM Battery for 2009 Yamaha Raider S 1854CC Motorcycle $89.99 w/exchange
Battery Plus NJ

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 12:03 PM
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Can you put a volt meter on the battery while you are turning the key to the start position?

Lead acid batteries need to be recharged immediately after they are used, or a layer forms on the lead and the battery is then shot. If the bike sat for a whole year, and the battery went completely dead, that could be the issue. If might take a trickle charge and show 12.5V on a meter, but as soon as you hit it with the heavy load of the starter it will go dead.

That could also explain the speedo needle 2 step - if you crank the starter and the battery drops to 3V, when you let off the starter the battery will try to ramp back up- if it makes it back to 10V or more, the ECM will think you just turned the key on, and it will sweep the needle again.

If you dont have a volt meter even the $10 one in the auto section of Walmart is good enough for this purpose - set it to DC Volts (sometimes its V with a flat line _) on a scale higher than 15V.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-23-2018, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCW View Post
Can you put a volt meter on the battery while you are turning the key to the start position?



Lead acid batteries need to be recharged immediately after they are used, or a layer forms on the lead and the battery is then shot. If the bike sat for a whole year, and the battery went completely dead, that could be the issue. If might take a trickle charge and show 12.5V on a meter, but as soon as you hit it with the heavy load of the starter it will go dead.



That could also explain the speedo needle 2 step - if you crank the starter and the battery drops to 3V, when you let off the starter the battery will try to ramp back up- if it makes it back to 10V or more, the ECM will think you just turned the key on, and it will sweep the needle again.



If you dont have a volt meter even the $10 one in the auto section of Walmart is good enough for this purpose - set it to DC Volts (sometimes its V with a flat line _) on a scale higher than 15V.


Thanks for the input I donít have a volt meter but i have been meaning to get one. Guess I just found a reason to get one!

I canít correct myself now but I should say

*the bike has been sitting for close to a year and Iím sure the previous owner was not aware of the missing connector lead to the positive battery terminal on the quick link for the trickle charger.

That being said maybe it would be easier to replace battery and see where it goes from there?

Just to recap;

Normally, on startup I hear the fuel pump, what I believe is also the starter motor, and can see a needle sweep with relatively bright light on odometer.


Now Iím getting audible fuel pump, NO starter motor sounds and needle sweep only occurs after the key is turned back off not while itís on.

Hoping to god itís just the battery


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