V-Star 1100 Pods, Jetting Questions - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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V-Star 1100 Pods, Jetting Questions

So I put a couple K&N air filters on my bike and got rid of the stock intake. I also drilled out the rear baffle on the exhaust pipes and pulled the AIS system off the bike and plugged the holes off.

I changed the jetting on the carbs to: Pilot 20 and Mains 147.5 and I put a .8mm nylon washer on the needles while leaving the PMS at its factory setting (~2 turns).

Jumped on my bike and found that it ran fine to ~ 20% throttle and then it was way too lean and seemed to misfire/detonate above ~ 20% throttle.

So I took the carbs off and put the PMS at 2.75 turns and then decided to shim the needles more with a couple thin washers (I got the nylon washers from Ace hardware along with the metal washers and they are all sized the right ID/OD for the needle/holder.
When I went to shim the needles this time I had both needles out at the same time and noticed that they were different. The front cylinder's needle was the new style with 5 adjustment slots for the C clip and the rear needle was the old style that has no adjustment. Not only this but the front needle was set to the TOP clip position but both needles had the same factory 1 nylon shim and one washer below the below the clip.

So I moved the front needle's clip to the center position on the needle which made it the same as the rear needle's clip position and put my shims on (.8mm nylon washer and 2 metal washers = 1mm total) and I left the PMS screw out at 2.75. I put the bike together and it ran great on the low end with tons of torque just off idle but it felt rich like it wouldn't rev out quickly when under full throttle or above half throttle. I ran it until it hit reserve which was at 140 miles. With stock setup the bike never hit reserve before 150miles and commonly would get to 160 give or take 5 miles.

So I changed the PMS setting to 2.25 turns from 2.75. I ran a tank of gas through it today and it didn't seem to have the low end just off idle torque it had before but DAMN it woke up when doing a 0-60 run. So now it pulls like a tractor at full throttle, will cruise at 40-60 mph with very little throttle input in 5th, but about 65mph when I hear the carbs opening up it starts feeling weak like it is still rich and I am getting what feels like more engine vibration that I would get while it was at stock setup. With this set up the MPG seemed the same as before as I changed over to reserve at 145 miles.

My best guess is that either I have the needles shimmed too much, my pilot jet is too big, or possibly both. I think that when I originally Jetted the carb and left the PMS at the factory setting of 2 turns, it was OK and that only the front cylinder was leaned out too much because it had the adjustable need which was set to the most lean position.

I can say that when the bike was stock with the front needle set that way (from the factory), it got better MPG than most people get but the front exhaust pipe turned a dark blue and the front cylinder would get very hot compared to the temp it gets now (with the bike running richer now the front cylinder does sit and tick/ping after I shut off the bike).

Any how, does anyone have experience with this? Any input? Is it unrealistic for me to expect closer to 50mpg with this setup?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 09:09 PM
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https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...g/carb-jetting 20 pilots are fine 3 to 3.5 on the screws.don't know about nylon washers. you can get info on washers if you read the jetting section. scroll down a ways to a chart it will have how to jet for pods and slipon exhaust or full exhaust. there is a lot of info
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-08-2018, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick57 View Post
https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...g/carb-jetting 20 pilots are fine 3 to 3.5 on the screws.don't know about nylon washers. you can get info on washers if you read the jetting section. scroll down a ways to a chart it will have how to jet for pods and slipon exhaust or full exhaust. there is a lot of info
Thanks for the reply. I was using that as a guide to set up my bike. I went back and looked at the image of the shim for the needles and it shows just two metal washers. I guess I got confused because I looked at the chart and it said 2 and then .5mm which for some reason I took to mean two .5mm shims and figured 1mm total.

Anyway I took out the nylon washer and put two metal washers in as shown on the needles. I left the PMS screw at 2.25 turns because it was my understanding the having the larger 20 pilot and 147.5 mains would generally richen my mixture through all but the very bottom of the throttle position.

After test driving my bike I find I am wrong. There seems to be a lean spot from about 50%-75% throttle. When the bike warms up good it is not as pronounced but it is still there, you can just feel an area that feels and sound flat. If I play back and forth in that throttle range I can get the bike to kind of stumble while it is still warming up.

What a pain in the arse.

Looks like I will be setting the PMS to 2.5 and see if it goes away, if it doesn't then keep going 1/4 turn at a time. The good news is that I am getting a good feel for how the jets, needle, and PMS effect the throttle. So if I don't get decent MPG with the PMS set right in this configuration I can drop the Pilot back to the original 17.5 and start the process over.

What gets me is the crappy mileage these bikes get. If I had a 700lb car with a 1.1 liter motor in it I would expect 50 mpg and it would have much more drag and ground resistance. It just seems like these bikes should be getting 60 MPG but they don't and I really think wanting to make it 200 miles on 4.5 gallon tank shouldn't be asking too much from these motors as they seem to plug along at 60 MPH right in their torque band.

Oh well, I enjoy dinking with it and trying to reach 50 MPG.

I was hoping someone that has already taken on this quest would chime in and tell me what they did.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-09-2018, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well, a quick update:

I finally had time to get the exhaust shop up the road to make a couple ~ 2in long pipes to slip inside the K&N filter boots so I didn't have just the rubber intake boot being tighted down on the rubber boot for the filter. Like I said it is about 2" long so it extends up into the filter itself about an inch or so. I had then do this to see if it would do anything (Like give the effect of having a long runner on the intake at WOT).

I was shocked at what a difference doing this has done. My intake is ALOT quieter now, less engine vibration at high RPMs, and what seems to be better WOT performance. I did a few WOT runs up through 3rd gear and for the first time since I had my bike the rear tire kept breaking loose when I launched so I had to really be careful with the throttle and the clutch. Each time I shift I get one sharp snap from the exhaust but it isn't loud; I don't let off the gas when shifting so I assume this is caused by the fuel cut off at Max RPM during shift.

I have no idea yet how fast the bike is but my brother has the exact same bike as mine with a stock intake and slip on drag pipes. His felt a little faster than mine last time I rode his while my intake was stock. I don't think that will be case anymore and I may have just started a competition that won't end too well knowing how competitive we are ;-)
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Another quick update. I put in 145 mains on bike and put the PMS back at 2.75 turns. Threw the bike together and took off in the rain with 45 degree weather and I am at sea level. Bike acted the same as it did when I had the 147.5 Mains with the PMS at 2.75 turns and over about 65% throttle the bike sputtered and backfired from carb acting like it was on the edge of leaning out. I could only use enough throttle to cruise at 65mph. At about 70mph it would act up. Rode it 100miles to get home.

My wife and I decided to go on a 250 mile trip a couple days later. I was able to adjust the PMS with a screwdriver I bought just for that. I set the PMS screws to 2.25 turns again like it was before with the 147.5 mains. Took it for a quick ride and it ran great again. We both filled up our bikes and off we went. She has a vstar 650 that gets about 50mph usually.

Went through the mountains to the coast, cruising from 40mph on twisties in the mountains with about 90 miles of highway miles at 55-65mph. We fueled up at the coast after about 140 miles and we topped off our bikes as usual. I was shocked when her bike took MORE gas than mine. I calculated fuel economy and her 650 got about 47mpg and mine was around 48.5mpg (stock I would get from 42 to 46mpg.

I will be pulling the plugs to look at them and see what the look like but am healing up from hand surgery right now. I don't want to mess with the set up now if the plugs look fine because this is all COLD weather riding.

Plan going forward after weather warms up, pending what plugs look likes:

Trying 22.5 pilots, PMS at 2 turns. I think it may be a little lean with the PMS because low end throttle is better when PMS is at 2.75.
After I get the pilots and needles running right I will then start figuring out the Main Jets. 145 seems on the rich side still because WOT was once again rich with PMS @ 2.75 turns like it was with the 147.5 jet. Hopefully changing the pilot to 22.5 will allow me to lean the PMS and the 145 Main will run good and give me more top end.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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I just thought I would make a quick update to this thread in case anyone it comes up in a search for jetting with pods.

Turns out I had a fuel filter that was plugging up and causing the bike to sputter when about 75% throttle. (I assume the carb bowls were draining low and leaning out the bike causing less power/vacuum and making the needle bounce)

After replacing the fuel filter I ended up with 150 mains, 22.5 pilots, no extra spacer on needle, and the PMS screw at 3 turns out. It ran smooth and strong even with the 145 mains on it but I went up a couple sizes per the POD Wiki. The larger mains didn't seem to make a big enough difference in power that I could absolutely say it pulls harder with them but it is what the WIKI recommends and I would rather be on the rich side at WOT. I have had the bike to 110mph with the 150 mains and it was still climbing slowly but not brisk enough for anything useful if needing extra passing speed. My tires were worn out so I did have some fun smoking them with some fast launches, the increase in torque with PODs is real ;-) It's Fuel mileage is ~ 48mpg when cruising highways/back roads between 50-65 mph.

It was a long and painful path figuring out that the fuel filter was plugging up. In hind sight the first indication that this was happening was hearing the fuel pump run for 2-4 seconds straight each time I turned the key on. Now with the new filter I never hear the pump run.

The exhaust on the bike is stock pipes (AIS removed) with Vance and Hines Classic slip-ons. Running it @ 200ft. above sea level 65 degree weather. Bike is running cooler than when it had the stock set up and getting about a 3 MPG increase near as I can tell.
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