Carb cleaning - Page 2 - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 08:07 PM
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The older formula for Seafoam use to have a little different directions and reaction when used. Used in carb'd cars/trucks...you would slowly feed about half the can in, then dump the rest in to smother the car out, let sit about 30 min, then fire it up and watch it smoke like a train for about 5-10 minutes. The newer formula doesn't usually have the same noticeable affect. Directly injecting in to the carb with no gas sounds like it is having pretty much that affect. I'm putting money on it starting to act right after the Seafoam gets diluted down or burned out of the carbs. Without looking at the can, I think it lists Petroleum Distillate as the ingredient...which is pretty much kerosene in this case if I remember right. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong if any one knows for sure.
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 08:29 PM
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Here's page 3 of Seafoam's SDS.



And the official instructions.



I read all the fine print and didn't mention KCW's commission percent of sales, I'm sure that's a trade secret also. Sorry KCW, just making a joke, but you are 100% correct on how well it works.

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Last edited by lesblank; 12-16-2018 at 08:32 PM.
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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaOmega View Post
The older formula for Seafoam use to have a little different directions and reaction when used. Used in carb'd cars/trucks...you would slowly feed about half the can in, then dump the rest in to smother the car out, let sit about 30 min, then fire it up and watch it smoke like a train for about 5-10 minutes.
This is how I use marvel mystery oil. Do it on my lawnmower from time to time. Used seafoam on my car, but I haven't been able to tell any difference (maybe I didn't need to clean it in the first place).
MMO has always worked good for me, but I generally turn to it when things are bad.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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I think this bike sat just a bit too long....i will try this seafoam for a while, if it doesn’t run smooth I am taking it to a shop to let them do it correctly.

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 07:57 AM
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It sounds like you dont have the bike on the road yet.

Carb cleaners work by flushing the fuel thru the jets and passages while the bike is running. Letting it soak in the carbs helps a little, but the amount of cleaner in contact with the goop or varnish on the surface of the jets is nearly nothing compared to when the bike is running.

If I remember correctly there are three paths thru the carbs when the engine is running, based on throttle position. When the bike is idling nothing is flowing thru the main jets, the Pilot Main passage kicks in somewhere in between.

To get the best cleaning effect you need to ride the bike, and that includes spurts with the throttle WFO, going up a steep hill if possible. If the bike will run at all Seafoam will do its job.

If you cant get the bike to start, or if it will not make it around the block, then you need to take the carbs apart and have at the jets and ports with piano wire. When the jets are fully plugged nothing can flush thru them but steel wires.

Last edited by KCW; 12-17-2018 at 07:59 AM.
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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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It runs, and I was able to get it some RPM's some but only7 1 time, I will let it sit a couple days until I can get the wheels back on after I get the new rubber mounted...Then I migh take it somewhere to have the carbs cleaned properly... I might let the Yamaha dealer mess with it because I know it will be done right..It's for my wife so I want it right.

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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered some carburetor kits today, I am going to try to get the carbs cleaned myself.
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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 07:54 PM
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There are many good videos out there on Carb cleaning. Watch several videos multiple times. Do one Carb at a time. Down load expanded carb view. Take pictures of each part before you take it off. Work on white towel, if small part falls it easy to see on white. Carb cleaner on metal parts only. Take you pictures you took when you dissembled and work backwards. You will probably mess up the bowl screw heads so be prepared to get new ones, any hardware store will have. You don't need Carb kits, just two new gaskets. Might take a few hours there first time, take it slow. All jets must be 100 clean. Don't forget the small holes in side of pilot jets. Leave the floats along, can be challenging to get adjusted right. Keep us informed.



Good info link: https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...irs/carburetor
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2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), Cobra Slash Cut full exhaust, Dropped 1 inch with lowering links, ORK, 4.5 inch handlebar risers, Ultimate passenger seat, Passenger pegs moved forward 4 inches, Handlebar clock, KN air filter, Viking saddlebags, Additional rear lighting
Loose nut "me" behind the bars
2006 Harley Electra Glide Ultra Classic

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 08:39 PM
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Les has done this before! :^)

people have posted the Phillips head screws have a Japanese standard pitch to the point, if you use a screwdriver from Sears or Lowes it will strip out the head. This is something worth googling, you can get the right screwdriver bits and have at least a decent chance of getting them off intact.

Or maybe its easier to strip them out and get new screws.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips, it was cheaper to Order 2 bottom kits that 2 o rings from the dealership...if I need something else I will order it from the dealership separately, I am in no hurry...we have to get through the holidays then a trip to Dominican Republic on the 12th for a week so I will be sipping fancy drinks while putting my plan together...I have watched 2 videos already..
I am not too worried.
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