Bike wont get in gear - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Question Bike wont get in gear

Hi everyone. Well, after reading through numerous posts and going to the far corners of the internet I still have a problem.

I have a 2004 v-star 1100 classic with about 28K miles on it. I am the 3rd owner (bought the bike in May) and have recently ran into a problem. About a month ago I was on a weekend ride when all of a sudden the clutch slipped out of gear. Couldn't get it to get back into gear so had to get a tow. I replaced the clutch plates (steel & friction), put in a Barnett kit instead of OEM and the clutch adjustment screw, the nut had stripped off the old one and I couldn't tighten the clutch cable.

Unfortunately none of this has helped get me back on the road. The bike can be pushed forward and backward while it is "in gear", just like if you had the clutch lever pulled in or if the bike was in neutral. Also, the last time I attempted to start it (yesterday) there was a buzzing coming from the battery compartment.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to get ripped off at the dealership.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 11:41 AM
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This could take some time but we can begin with the easy thing to check first:

Is the spline on the short lever still biting on the end of the shift shaft? I'm wondering if the spline is worn away and when you shft, the shift pedal is moving but the other end of the shift linkage rod is not turning your shift shaft.

There are a million and one little things that can wear out and/or break off, and then there are some real major components that we don't even want to think about just yet.




Last edited by stratowart; 08-20-2012 at 11:44 AM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, the shift arm is snug on the end of the shift shaft and i can see the shaft rotate when i press the pedal
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 01:46 PM
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Then the next step is to check to see if your linkage is adjusted correctly, your owners manual should have a diagram that suggests the correct end-to-end lenght of the linkage rod.



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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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ok, went to the service manual and then measured my bike, it was perfect. the gears just aren't biting. i called the dealership just for a quote/ideas, all i got wasd "it's $100 to look at it"
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 07:01 PM
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Well, if your sure the clutch is reassembled correctly then now it's time to go inside the cover that the shift shaft passes thru. But after you remove the linkage rod and the arm from the spline of the end of the shift shaft, see if you can turn the shift shaft with a tight grip between your fingers. You shouldn't be able to keep turuning it in one direction or the other.

But regardless, remove the side cover and see if you lost the spring off the end of the pawl (that turns the star wheel on the end of the gear selector barrel.




Last edited by stratowart; 08-20-2012 at 07:08 PM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2012, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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when we installed the new clutch we put in a barnett rather than oem. The only difference was that the barnett didn't have the grooves in 2 of the friction plate tabs. So, we called them up, and they told us to just slip it in, there was no right or wrong way. Ok, I'll get back on this once I get that crankcase cover removed.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-21-2012, 05:24 AM
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Good luck! From your clutch replacement description I see you have a repair manual which should help a lot! I figure to remove that engine cover means draining the oil first and a gasket or two replacement. Does your shop manual offer any trouble shooting ideas or possible causes?



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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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I wanted to thank everyone for the help. After tearing my bike apart, I finally caved in and had it towed to the dealer. Turned out that there is a part that connects from the rear wheel to the drive shaft and the teeth on it were completely worn off. I don't know if I would've gotten that far, but I'm glad the dealer did. All in all, with parts, labor and new brake pads, I only had to shell out $357.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 09:09 AM
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Glad you have it fixed. sounds like you found a good dealer and fair prices as far as dealers go. more labor in it that then cost of parts. bottom line it's fixed and your riding agin at a prive that makes you happy.
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