Adding more brake pressure - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Meatwad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 61
Adding more brake pressure

I installed a new front brake line yesterday and spent hours getting pressure built up into it. I think it needs a little more as it's not quite what I had in my OEM line. However this is a Galfer brake line so it may not behave exactly like my stock line.

Anyway I think I read somewhere that the top of the master cylinder reservoir has to be open while you do the pump-lever-open-bleed-screw process in order to prevent a vacuum. Am I getting that right?
Meatwad is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 04:28 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 894
Yes, the master cylinder cover should be loose and never allowed to run dry. Bleed the master cylinder first, then the left brake, then the right if you have two front brakes. You shouldn't have to fill the master cylinder more than twice per bleed port even if a new brake line is involved.

If you use a hand vacuum pump instead of pumping the brake you can usually get better results, especially if you have a lot of air like when replacing a brake line. You can get a cheap one for $25 or less and may even be able to borrow one from a local auto parts store that has loaner tools.

2013 V Star 1300 Deluxe
OEM Tall Sissy Bar
Memphis Shades Fork Deflectors
Bridgestone Exedra Max Belted Tires
Baron's RSTD 7308 bar
sparkn is offline  
post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 04:35 PM
Senior Member
 
nick57's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: erie pa
Posts: 1,446
you can try tieing back the brake lever and leaving it overnight. you can have a bubble at the splitter so open those connections too while your trying to pump it up.
nick57 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Meatwad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 61
Guys, thanks. Let me start by saying I'm a complete n00b at this. I've never done brake work of any kind before so I am probably missing something obvious.

Here's what I've done:
1. Filled Master cylinder after replacing brake lines.
2. Loosened the bleeder screw on right brake caliper and used a Mighty Vac pump to pull fluid down.
3. Repeated step 2 for the left brake caliper.
4. To build pressure I started by treating the MC banjo bolt like it was a bleeder valve. I pumped the brake lever several times, held it down, loosened the banjo bolt, tightened the banjo bolt, and released the brake lever. I repeated this several times to build pressure.
5. I went to the right caliper bleed screw and pumped the brake lever several times, held it down, loosened the bleed screw, tightened the bleed screw, and released the brake lever.
6. I repeated step 5 for the left caliper.

I was finally able to build pressure using these methods. But something still worries me. No matter how I tried I kept getting air bubbles through the mighty vac hose when I tried to use it to remove the air from the caliper bleed screws. I don't know if I had the screw too loose or too tight but I was not able to remove the air this way.

I went for a test ride and my pressure seems about 95% of what it should be. But I hear these little "barks" and "squelches" when I apply heavy front brake pressure sometimes.

Are my brakes going to fail and will I die in a fire?
Meatwad is offline  
post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 05:23 AM
Senior Member
 
nick57's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: erie pa
Posts: 1,446
try wraping teflon tape around the bleed screws the mighty vac could be pulling in air thru the screw threads.
nick57 is offline  
post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 07:06 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Smithfield, VA
Posts: 1,090
Bleed it once more but do it manually without the pump. Use the hose and the container from the pump kit to catch it. Most likely those tine bubbles are from the pump sucking air in from around the bleed screw. That's the only thing I hate about using them. Also bleed the left caliper first then the right. When bleeding brakes always start at your furthers point from the MC and work your way back. So bleed left then right.

2006 V-Star 1100 Classic
Completely debadged
Silverado windshield and passing lamps
Floorboard extensions
OE Highway bar with custom mounting brackets
Kuryakyn Dually ISO Highways pegs
Kuryakyn grips
Passenger floorboards
Barons Nasty Boy Slip-ons
Maxair pods
Mustang seats
Kuryakyn led headlight halo
Summer is offline  
post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 09:00 AM
eGo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meatwad View Post
Guys, thanks. Let me start by saying I'm a complete n00b at this. I've never done brake work of any kind before so I am probably missing something obvious.
We All Start Somewhere..

Quote:
4. To build pressure I started by treating the MC banjo bolt like it was a bleeder valve. I pumped the brake lever several times, held it down, loosened the banjo bolt, tightened the banjo bolt, and released the brake lever. I repeated this several times to build pressure.
I could be wrong, but if you're using the banjo bolt by the MC (on the handlebars right?) then you're most likely not going to get any air out of the lines past that, but again, I could be wrong. When I bleed brakes, I always bleed from the caliper. Loosen the MC cap. Connect your bleeder line to the bleeder valve and crack it loose, then pump the brakes a few times and hold it then tighten the valve and release. (You'll probably need two people for this. Repeat this procedure until you don't see anymore bubbles. And, as others have mentioned, make sure you don't run the MC dry.. It's also, at least with cars, best to start with the caliper farthest from the cylinder. So do the left side then the right side.. If I'm off base with any of this, please let me know. Hope this helps!

Good Luck

eGo
eGo is offline  
post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Meatwad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Summer View Post
Bleed it once more but do it manually without the pump. Use the hose and the container from the pump kit to catch it. Most likely those tine bubbles are from the pump sucking air in from around the bleed screw. That's the only thing I hate about using them. Also bleed the left caliper first then the right. When bleeding brakes always start at your furthers point from the MC and work your way back. So bleed left then right.
Summer, this is why I have trouble. The videos I've watch say start with the MC. But I guess it doesn't matter as long as it works.
Meatwad is offline  
post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Meatwad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 61
Do you guys think it makes a difference whether the bike is straight up or on the kickstand? I keep having the most trouble with the left caliper. I think I actually got the right one bled completely free of air.
Meatwad is offline  
post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 05:18 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Illinois
Posts: 894
I've always done MC first. Then brakes starting from the farthest from the MC. Unless the MC was drained many people skip this step. I don't like skipping it, but that's me. I hate mushy brakes.

2013 V Star 1300 Deluxe
OEM Tall Sissy Bar
Memphis Shades Fork Deflectors
Bridgestone Exedra Max Belted Tires
Baron's RSTD 7308 bar
sparkn is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome