Oil types and preferences - Page 2 - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 09:28 AM
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What weight did you use?

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20W50 full synthetic. I believe that is the only weight they make specifically for bikes.
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 10:15 PM
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i've been using Amsoil for the past several years. 1yr/10K miles between oil changes, and independent testing shows it has higher viscosity and other scientific stuff than other brands. even when i reach the end of my oil cycle there is no degradation in clutch performance. i once used Castrol a while back when i changed out my clutch plates because i didn't want to wait for an order of amsoil to come in. after about 3,000 miles there began to be considerable clutch slippage. switched back to Amsoil and no issues ever since.
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-26-2018, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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20 50 seems a little thick.
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by road_slug View Post
20 50 seems a little thick.
amsoil makes a 20/40 also exactly what the manual recommends for the 650 in the warmer months

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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by road_slug View Post
20 50 seems a little thick.
amsoil makes a 20/40 also exactly what the manual recommends for the 650 in the warmer months
Yeah the thing I hate about amsoil is finding someone who sells it and when you do, you have to wait. It is good oil and do like it though.
I have just been using 10/40 valvoline full synthetic motorcycle oil.
Little over 6 bucks a quart. Not sure if its worth the money for frequent changes.
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 10:57 AM
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This explains the viscosity ....

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How is viscosity rated? The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) developed a scale for both engine (motor oil grades) and transmission oils.

What are motor oil viscosity ratings?

Viscosity is notated with the common "XW-XX." The number preceding the "W" rates the oil's flow at 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8 degrees Celsius). The "W" stands for winter, not weight as many people think. The lower the number here, the less it thickens in the cold. So 5W-30 viscosity engine oil thickens less in the cold than a 10W-30, but more than a 0W-30. An engine in a colder climate, where motor oil tends to thicken because of lower temperatures, would benefit from 0W or 5W viscosity. A car in Death Valley would need a higher number to keep the oil from thinning out too much.

The second number after the "W" indicates the oil's viscosity measured at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius). This number represents the oil's resistance to thinning at high temperatures. For example, 10W-30 oil will thin out at higher temperatures faster than 10W-40 will.

Monograde oils such as SAE 30, 40 or 50 are no longer used in latest automotive engines, but may be required for use in some vintage and antique engines. Straight SAE 30 oil is often specified for small air-cooled engines in lawnmowers, garden tractors, portable generators and gas-powered chain saws.
Some more of grades, etc.
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thing is, my 2002 vstar 650 does not spec for 50 weight. 40 is the max and probably for good reason.
You go too thick and actually slows the rotation of components inside the engine.

Last edited by road_slug; 04-27-2018 at 02:20 PM.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 12:42 PM
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↑ what slug said.

The engineers at Yamaha have proven they are excellent mechanical designers. I will follow their recommendations until a better engineer with a better track record tells me otherwise, with a dam good explanation to go with it.
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-27-2018, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well I did an oil change and used 10/40
I could not find the valvoline 4t full synthetic so I went with the quick silver full synthetic motorcycle oil.
I had about almost 2500 miles on it and probably know why Yamaha recommends 3k. I drained out the valvoline 4t out and was dark. Not amber or black but very dark. It smelled bad too. Obviously fuel dilution.
I changed the final drive fluid and it looked like new, just stinky. Just an fyi.

Last edited by road_slug; 04-27-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-28-2018, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by road_slug View Post
Yeah the thing I hate about amsoil is finding someone who sells it and when you do, you have to wait. It is good oil and do like it though.
I have just been using 10/40 valvoline full synthetic motorcycle oil.
i think it's absolutely ridiculous that you can't purchase this Amsoil directly, either in person or online. it would be easier to just be able to go to a store and pick it off the shelf, but it's a small price to pay to have a 2 minute phone call and have it shipped to you within a couple days and to get a superior oil that allows me to only have to change it out once a year. And I always tell him i'm with this forum and i'm pretty sure he's been giving me a discount that was once offered here to forum members, but those threads were erased when his sponsorship ended.

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Last edited by bevo1981; 04-28-2018 at 01:54 AM.
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