I think MajorSpittle has hit the square snail in the head.
If you are going to ride your bike under normal conditions, then following the oil requirements in the owners manual (20W40 for summer weather) is all you need to do. The cheapest generic 20W40 at walmart meets all the requirements, as long as the bottom half of the API lollypop symbol is clear (no resource conserving, enhanced additives for mileage or wear). You dont need to buy "motorcycle oil". Motorcycle oil is regular car/truck oil without the extra additives. They are charging you more for what they are leaving out. You can follow the 4000 mile oil change and 8000 mile filter change schedule in the owners manual and sleep well at night.
But if you are going to race the bike, ride it WFO for hours at a time at 85+mph, be in stop and go traffic where the engine will overheat, then having a higher grade or synthetic oil will make a difference.
I have to ping you for this " I had to drive it about 5 miles with no coolant." I have purchased several cars over the years with blown engines, for a couple hundred dollars, because the oil or temperature light came on and the owner did not immediately pull over and stop. With no oil pressure the bearings go metal to metal within seconds, and overheating will warp your heads and blow out the head gaskets. "had to drive" is very subjective. The price and inconvenience of calling a tow truck is cheap compared to calling a tow truck 5 miles down the road and replacing an engine. You dodged a bullet. I dont want to pick on you, but that is not something that anyone should try to duplicate.
If you want to put dollar signs on it, you can buy generic oil and change the oil every 2000 miles and the filter every 8000 miles, for less money than using synthetic oil for 4000 miles. The synthetic oil will still cost you more than twice as much.
Last edited by KCW; 05-02-2018 at 08:34 AM.