Ok heres a new one... - Page 2 - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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I sure as hell hope not. 😕. Meters worked fine on every other vehicle through the garage.. (Recently)
Definitely showed a bad stator after testing when I found low charging. Would think if meter was at fault I would get same readings w new stator etc..

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Originally Posted by Qkenuf4u View Post
Customers 02 road star Silverado...
Did oil change n other misc items..
I always check charging at battery when looking a bike over. Bike wasn't charging so did typical tests n found bad stator.. ...
I have to point out that this is an odd situation. Was the bike running when the customer brought it in?

The reason is it would be statistically odd if the bike was running ok, and being used, he brought it in for an oil change and other things, and you happen to notice the charging circuit had failed. If the bike was not charging it would drain the battery dead while riding with the headlight on in several hours, so from a probability perspective, you just happened to catch it right after it failed, but the battery had not gone dead yet.

This raises the question: is it possible your volt meter is not registering, its internal battery is going dead. Ive seen that happen on Fluke meters, the voltage reading starts running way low, and then after an hour the low battery icon lights up, and the meter shuts off,

Or maybe the point where you are measuring the voltage itself is just a bad connection. It would suck if you went thru the work to replace the stator, and you are still getting the same readings, if it was a bad volt meter, probe wire, or connection point the whole time. Ive torn things apart when I thought they were not working right, but they actually were.

Last edited by Qkenuf4u; 03-11-2019 at 09:11 PM.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Customer is gonna take it as is since he's heading home in a few weeks (new Zealand) .. So out here putting it back together n figured.. What the heck ill put in the new battery that I fully charged last night...
Its smaller but starts bike fine.. Weird tying is it actually charges at 12.7-13v .. (Fully charged Old battery stopped at 12.5v) .. So not fixed but might work ok for riding around a bit.. I told him to keep a back up plan in mind if bike won't start or shuts off on him....
WTF... Omen of a bike..
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Lmao.. So first start up w headlight fuse pulled n it charged perfectly @ 14.5v or so... Messing around trying to track down exactly where the problem is n voltage just kept getting lower n lower till back to square one (even w headlight fuse out) ...
New battery it would atleast charge close to 13v.. Old battery back in n it goes to 12.8v or so (w headlight fuse pulled) ..
Maybe just getting to hot sitting here idling..
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 03:24 PM
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Im not sure how it works in a motorcycle, but in a car when you first start it up, the regulator drives the alternator to output up to 14.5V, to quickly recharge the energy you just used to start the engine. Then it drops the output and the charging voltage will slowly ramp down to 12.6 to 12.8V after several miles.

A really smart regulator will drop the alternator out for a fraction of second to see where the battery voltage settles with no charging, and then either bump it up harder if the voltage drops, or back off if the battery holds its level.

That is why an old battery puts a big drain on the alternator, you can charge it and charge it, then when you stop charging (or turn the engine off) instead of holding at 12.6 to 12.8 volts, it drops down to 12.0 V or less. Sometimes you can see this at night, you stop your engine with the headlights still on, and the brightness noticeably drops.

A motorcycle regulator must be doing to the same thing to some degree - if it kept hitting the battery with 14.5V all the time when the engine is rev'd up, it would boil the water out of the battery when you are on the interstate. After its been running for a while the alternator/regulator voltage should drop down to around 12.8V... maybe a bit more, once the battery is charged.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 04:23 PM
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I am sure you have does this. But, better to be said then not.

All grounding wires on the bike are good?

I ask because I troubleshot a starting issue on a buddy' car many years ago. Turns out a bad ground near the rear lights was causing it. (I know odd. But, as soon as a took off the ground. Cleaned it and the area up. Reconnected. No more starting issue. Well, at least not until another friend wrecked it a few month's later)

No matter what you ride. Just ride!
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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I am sure you have does this. But, better to be said then not.

All grounding wires on the bike are good?

I ask because I troubleshot a starting issue on a buddy' car many years ago. Turns out a bad ground near the rear lights was causing it. (I know odd. But, as soon as a took off the ground. Cleaned it and the area up. Reconnected. No more starting issue. Well, at least not until another friend wrecked it a few month's later)
Yep grounds cleaned n tight.. Perfect ohms to ground ..
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 06:19 PM
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...Turns out a bad ground near the rear lights was causing it. (I know odd. But, as soon as a took off the ground. Cleaned it and the area up. Reconnected. No more starting issue. ...
instead of using a separate wire for each light and turn signal, some cars use a power wire and a data bus, that tells each light when to turn on and off. The bus runs to each light and some also to sensors. Its possible if one light connection was messed up it could lock up the data bus, and cause problems somewhere else.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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...Turns out a bad ground near the rear lights was causing it. (I know odd. But, as soon as a took off the ground. Cleaned it and the area up. Reconnected. No more starting issue. ...
instead of using a separate wire for each light and turn signal, some cars use a power wire and a data bus, that tells each light when to turn on and off. The bus runs to each light and some also to sensors. Its possible if one light connection was messed up it could lock up the data bus, and cause problems somewhere else.
Not one of those on this bike that I've seen or shows on schematics..
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 06:31 PM
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yeah, I have not seen the automotive bus used on a motorcycle. A big car can have a lot of wires on it, with all the windows and locks and power seats.. might end up costing more if they put the bus and smart lights on a motorcycle.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, I have not seen the automotive bus used on a motorcycle. A big car can have a lot of wires on it, with all the windows and locks and power seats.. might end up costing more if they put the bus and smart lights on a motorcycle.
They do put a collection of grounds all in a special plastic cannection on some bikes.. Usually they end getting a bunch burned together n cause havoc..
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