Unable to build any pressure in MC at brake change - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Unable to build any pressure in MC at brake change

Yesterday I set out to change my front brakes. (2006 Road Star 1700 Silverado) When I got to the point of bleeding the lines, I was never able to get enough pressure built up in the master cylinder so that my lever would grab. What the hec?? What am I doing wrong? Also, the black weird little gasket that is in the MC looked all mangled....like it had been exposed to the wrong kind of fluid. I've had the bike about 3 years, just put fluid in not too long ago and everything was fine then. I am wondering, what are the symptoms of a failed Master cylinder?

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 01:23 PM
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I hear if you put the black rubber in the freezer it will come back in shape
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well, that's a first, but I'm game. I'll give it a whirl. I would really like to know why it mangled in the first place. Some mysteries are never solved.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 01:34 PM
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when I bleed my brakes I pump them like crazy maybe 100 times and real fast, its really tiring. as a last resort try tying the lever down over night and loosen the cap first.the bubbles will rise to the top over time.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Nick for getting back to me. I'm just sweating it. I'm hoping that it's not a failed master cylinder. I I have a friend who was telling me that he looks up two lines to the valves at both CalPERS and just let fluid run out of it and then he knows that the air is completely out of the lines which is also an alternative I suppose. I didn't expect a 30 minute job to become so convoluted.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 02:36 PM
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make sure you're opening/closing the banjo bolt in the correct sequence with squeezing the brake lever. i just have one caliper on mine so it may not be the same as yours, but i recently changed out my front brake and couldn't get any pressure built up until i figured out i was doing the incorrect sequencing.

for a single caliper, you have to pump the brake lever a few times, squeeze the lever and hold, open then immediately close the banjo screw/bolt, then release the brake lever. and do this over and over until pressure builds up. the sequence may be different for dual calipers so get someone to confirm which is correct for your bike, or just try a different sequence until you get it right.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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OK, seems to be getting worse. My brake fluid just turn to Jell-O. What say you I'm thinking master cylinder rebuild
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 05:28 PM
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put a tube and catch can on the bottom bleed screw and pump the old fluid out.watch the level in the mc doesn't get to low add fresh fluid till you think its all been replaced .
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 05:32 PM
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That part about your fluid looking like jell-o is a bit troubling. Sure you are using dot-4? On my duel calipers, I bleed one at a time till fluid runs clear, (adding fresh fluid the whole time) follow procedure bevo said, one or two it works the same. (Not sure what a banjo bolt is, I assume( I know, I know NEVER ASSUME!) he means the bleed screw/bolt.

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Last edited by Sugar Bear; 08-08-2015 at 05:59 PM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 06:22 PM
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Really old brake fluid, contaminated fluid, or broken down fluid can gel. Sometimes stored open containers of fluid can gel if they've absorbed enough water. Silicone will attack brake fluid, too. Is it possible your "weird little black gasket" is actually silicone? Flush it all out and get new gaskets sounds like a good start.

Sugar Bear: the banjo bolt is the ring and bolt at the end of the brake line that connects the brake line to either end. The bolt is hollow and the fluid passes through it. That's different from the bleed screw which is similar in appearance to a Zerk fitting.

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