Thanks Les on posting that one.
To add to the not using the throttle due to the starting circuits and all;
Key and kill switch to the On position (obviously haha)
Place the bike in 2nd gear and roll the bike backward until the gear fully engages/stops rolling with your hand off of the clutch lever.
Choke adjusted as needed
Shift to neutral
Press the starter button until the bike is running (up to 20 seconds)
Adjust Choke as necessary to let it warm up.
I picked this up from a forum member (Flush You Bastard) a while back, with the explanation "This motion engages the sprags in the sprag (starter) clutch. So doing it in advance like this should help it to "catch" the motor crank and turn it to get it started."
The starter clutch is a sprag style/one way bearing, not a clutch pack or disc as one would think or even the common bendix set up that most automobile's use.
From the TSB about starter clutch replacement in regards to throttling while starting "...if the throttle is applied while cranking the engine, an extremely lean fuel mixture is created. This lean condition is very volatile and can result in very abrupt combustion causing the engine to rotate backwards violently, damaging the starter one-way bearing and possibly other starter system components. "
The cost for dealer parts is a little up there ($500 and up for the bearing assembly plus shop time to install), which, to me, is a little high when you paid 2 grand for the bike itself. You can pick up an upgraded assembly for cheaper and do it yourself. It isn't a hard job, if you have patience. It is very easy to get the cams out of time while replacing the starter clutch if you aren't paying attention or get in a hurry. So, the few seconds it takes me to put it in 2nd while I am already rolling backwards out of the garage is worth it if it will save me from having to replace the bearing again.
This is all planning for worst case scenario of course and the bike does have it's own set of noises, as was pointed out, such as if you stop hearing the valves tick, then it is time to adjust them again haha. Do your normal maintenance items, get your PMS screws set, sync your carbs, check your TPS and the bike should fire quick and easy and run strong for a long time. If you are still a little iffy on the noise, see if anyone in the area has an 1100 that you could meet up with and listen to and compare noises.