Starting issues - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Starting issues

Good morning guys, just bought a 2001 vstar 1100 with 12k Miles a week ago and Sunday morning (3am, I’m a bouncer) it started having some issues. Well big issue, it won’t start. To get home I had to push start it in 2nd, once it started it ran fine. Symptoms:
—check engine light is on and blinks 3 times, break, repeat. Manual says tps sensor?
—it seems like a dead battery but I hooked it up to a charger for about 12 hours and it made no difference.
—when I bought it, the owner said it has to be in nuetral to start. I thought this was just how the bike was manufactured but the more I read the more this seems not the case.
—when I try to start it, the starter sounds like it’s starting up then stops. Every 3 or so tries it cycles 2-3 times. Sometimes the solenoid just buzzes.
—it did see some rain but bikes are generally waterproof, no?
—I realize the first couple times before I found this forum, starting the bike I gave it some throttle, but only a couple times. Shouldn’t be enough to blow the starter clutch already right?

I was just reading another thread about starter magnets coming loose and tanking the starter. A possibility?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 09:18 AM
KCW
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1st thing to do is get a volt meter, put it on DC volts, and put the leads right across the battery while you crank the starter. Even a $10 meter from walmart or harbor freight will do for this.

If the voltage is dropping down below 10V while you are cranking, you battery is old and weak. Charging an old battery wont bring it back to life. They normally last 3 to 4 years.

If the battery voltage is holding up, check the cables to the battery connection, and follow the black wire down to the frame connection. Make sure those connections are all clean - get out the wire brush or dremil with a sanding drum if you need to.

I dont have an 1100 but from what I have read you have to give the throttle gas more than 3 times (while cranking) to break the starter clutch - if you keep doing that all the time you will kill it eventually.

I think there was a very narrow window on starters being made with weak glue on the magnets - its not a very common issue.
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Last edited by KCW; 09-10-2018 at 09:21 AM.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I’ll grab a voltmeter from work and try it tonight. If the battery turns out fine, where do I put the nodes to test the starter relay and starter? What resistance/voltage should I look for? I’m great with mechanical issues but absolutely clueless on electrical.
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 10:03 AM
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If the voltage is good at the battery terminals while its cranking, but the starter is spinning slower than it should, the next step would be to put the meter on the starter terminals and see if the 12V is still there while cranking, or if you are losing it somewhere between the battery and the starter.

Im dont know where those terminals are on an 1100 - someone else will have to jump in with that info.

Quote:
check engine light is on and blinks 3 times, break, repeat. Manual says tps sensor...
I forgot to mention, if your battery is going dead to the point that it wont crank the starter, the tps sensor fault code could just be from trying to run on low voltage.

If the bike runs ok when you push start it, and you dont get that check engine light, then your tps is ok.

If your battery checks out ok, then the tps is something to look into - because the ECM changes the timing based on where the TPS is. Its a simple thing to check.

This is a good time to mention: the factory service manual for most vstar bikes is on the internet somewhere in pdf format. If you dont have one google Vstar 1100 service manual, and you might be able to download it for free. There is a page for checking the TPS with a volt meter.

Last edited by KCW; 09-10-2018 at 10:14 AM.
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies! The light stays on and was on before battery issues, to clarify. Also, I found a YouTube video where this guys bike sounds just like mine if it helps.

https://youtu.be/A6NHB9bTADU

He said the problem turned out to be his battery, so I’m definately starting there! If I need to replace it, what’s a good one with the proper specs that will start in any weather, if that even exists?
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 11:06 AM
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Your bike will run fine on any lead acid AGM (glass mat) battery that is the right size for your bike.

You can goto someplace like battery shark, they will tell you what battery you need for your make and model motorcycle

use this for your reference: https://www.batterysharks.com/Yamaha...2-12-135-k.htm

you can also get batteries locally from interstate batteries, some at walmart, any yamaha dealer - but the dealer might try to sell you a 'hi performance' battery for $200 that you dont need.
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks a ton guys, I’ll test the battery this afternoon and if that’s the issue there’s both a batteries plus and autozone and multiple advanced auto parts that have glass mat batteries nearby. Should be back on the road for the few days I have before this hurricane hits!

If lord forbid that’s not the issue, I’ll reply here.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lex Grudzinski View Post
Thanks a ton guys, Iíll test the battery this afternoon and if thatís the issue thereís both a batteries plus and autozone and multiple advanced auto parts that have glass mat batteries nearby. Should be back on the road for the few days I have before this hurricane hits!

If lord forbid thatís not the issue, Iíll reply here.
Where are you located since you mentioned hurricane? If you are on south east - check this thread and join us. Stay safe!

As far your starting issue - I'm with KCW (he is our "walking encyclopedia") - it is very likely the battery. I had similar issue on my wife's 650. Battery even checked good when I took it to Autozone and Advance Auto Parts. I kept messing with the starter and wires and fuses until I decided to check the voltage on the terminals while cranking and it was down to 1.5 volts. Went to the store, put new battery in - started right up and no issues.
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I’m at a loss. The battery test went from 12.42 no load to 9.9 load. So I went and got a brand new one recommended in another thread in this forum and it’s still doing the same thing. I pulled the starter off and tested it, it works, which means so does the relay. The stator is fine otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to push start it and make it 35 mins home. All of the fuses look fine. I made sure there was no corrosion anywhere. I guess this forum doesn’t allow for videos 😞
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-10-2018, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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With the new battery, it’s reading OL regardless if loaded or not. It did this the first time I tried to test the old one but not the time after.
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