V-Star 1100 exhaust popping (I've tried everything) - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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V-Star 1100 exhaust popping (I've tried everything)

I've read thread upon thread and tried everything recommended and nothing is helping. Here is the condition.

Bike sat from September 2016-June 2017. I ran it maybe once or twice as it had a slow discharge on the battery and wasn't charging good I didn't have time to fix it and couldn't ride it so it sat until sept. In September of 2017 I moved from Ohio to CA, took the bike with me and bought a stator / rectifier (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as I had determined that was causing the discharge. I swapped it out and when I fired it up all seemed good but when it warmed up it started popping (after fire) like somebody was lighting a pack of m80 in the tail pipe. It runs super smooth just lots of popping.

-First thing I suspected was bad gas from sitting, drained the gas and put fresh fuel in - no change.
-Next thing, I saw was the tubes from the carbs to intake were dried and cracked. I replaced those but noted that the cracks didn't run to the inside and no change there.

in-between here I moved the bike from sea level to 4k feet above sea level. note that ohio was at 600 ft above sea level.

-Then I disassembled the carbs and cleaned them, again assuming some gas had varnished up and was plugging a jet or something - no change.
-I attempted to tune off of the PMS. I had noted that my rear carb was at 2.5 turns out and the forward was at 2 turns when I cleaned the carbs. I found no improvement by opening or closing the needles in 1/4 turn increments 3 turns out and in until the engine quits. It did get worse going out. The odd thing I noted is that the behavior is somehwat off. The turns I noted above were known place the bike has run good at before but when I turn them out the rpms increase along with the popping up to 3 additional turns out and then rpms asymptote. There is no real lean drop off its just a steady decrease in rpm going down from there and at the 5 turn out setting it pops a lot and sounds very rich (which is what I expect).
-Next I tried plugging the AIS lines - no change.
- Next I checked the valve lash, all were within tolerance but I adjusted to make sure t hey were right in the middle no change.

I'm at my whits end with this thing, I don't get it. Here are my two thoughts:

- It looks like the Stator has the pick up on there as well, is it possible I got a lemon that is messing with the timing and causing this? The problem did show up after I swapped these parts.
-The only other thing I can think is jet size but it doesn't make sense the bike ran fine before.

I appreciate any help this is becoming incredibly frustrating.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 07:29 AM
KCW
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If you think the spark timing might be off you can put a timing strobe on it and check the timing with the marks used to line up the crankshaft. There is no way to adjust the timing so this is not covered in the normal tune up procedure, but if the coil you changed is not installed correctly you will be able to see the timing is off the mark.

Have you verified the plugs have a good spark after changing the coil?

What do the plugs look like after you rode the bike for about 20 miles, with the carbs set to your best guess settings?

You didnt mention anything about the air filter or intake pods. They have to be in place and the air filter must be clean (new) for the bike to run like new. Dirty or blocked air filter will make a big difference. Also the choke mechanism needs to be working correctly - many people forget that.

Also Im pretty sure the 1100 has the timing advance based off the carb position sensor. If the sensor is not working correctly your timing will be off in the woods, or it wont advance when you open the throttle.

Last edited by KCW; 12-04-2018 at 08:24 AM.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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There are 4 ticks and I'm not sure which mark I would use to time from? There is a single tick , an "F" with at tick abutting either side and a "T" with a tick abutting one side.

I haven't checked the spark on the plugs.

Plugs were a black oxide kind of color with a hint of brown. Definitely on the rich side of things but not wet or oily.


no change on the air filter. It looks perfectly clean. How do I check the choke? It behaves predictably and there was no damage to any of the mechanisms or components on visual inspection during disassembly and cleaning of the carbs.

Interesting point about the carb position sensor. . .I will say that I am growing more suspicious of the components I changed during the stator swap. Originally the "what changed" was that the bike sat for a long time. Know I have checked all of the components that would have been affected by the bike sitting and I'm circling back and realizing that the other thing that changed was part of the signaling circuit for the ignition.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 01:24 PM
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I had to replace the rectifier on my 1100 and I was warned to stay away from cheap eBay offers and get an OEM from Yamaha. I'm not saying that is your problem, but I paid more for just the OEM rectifier than you did for the rectifier and stator.

Paul
2007 Vulcan Nomad
V&H exhaust

2000 V Star 1100 Classic (Sold)
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 01:46 PM
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https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...ome/tuning/tps the tps is also important for preventing the timing from advancing during startup. if the timing advances during startup the engine can kick back damaging the starter clutch.stabbing the starter button also causes kickback so push the button firmly until motor starts you wont hurt the starter. the ethinol gas can turn to jelly blow out all the carb passages and remove the pilot jet and hold up you should be able to see good light thru them. if you have doubt's about the jets you can get replacements from your local Harley dealer for $5.00 each.
https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...r-must-do-list
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcurcio1989 View Post
There are 4 ticks and I'm not sure which mark I would use to time from? There is a single tick , an "F" with at tick abutting either side and a "T" with a tick abutting one side.
I vaguely remember reading thru the service manual for my bike and it has a procedure for checking the timing. I would matter if you are doing a static test rotating the crank by hand or running the engine at idle.... Were you able to get the factory service manual PDF online?

Quote:
How do I check the choke? It behaves predictably and there was no damage to any of the mechanisms or components on visual inspection during disassembly and cleaning of the carbs.
If the bike is starting correctly with the choke, and the engine slows down when you push it in, its probably working correctly. Only thing I can suggest is to check the cable and mechanism and make sure its pushing in and out all the way.

Quote:
Interesting point about the carb position sensor. . .I will say that I am growing more suspicious of the components I changed during the stator swap. Originally the "what changed" was that the bike sat for a long time. Know I have checked all of the components that would have been affected by the bike sitting and I'm circling back and realizing that the other thing that changed was part of the signaling circuit for the ignition.
all I can think of is maybe you got parts for a different year bike and its not compatible? Dont know how to ring that out, except to check an OEM website like bikebandit to see what the OEM part number should be for your make and year.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-06-2018, 07:53 AM
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Your bike could just be jetted a little lean. During warm weather my 650 runs fine but temps have been in the high 20s to low 30s (F) and she'll pop on decel even after being thoroughly warmed up. If I pull out the enrichener ('choke') a little, the popping goes away. I just need to fatten up the jetting a little.
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