Battery ground - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Can anybody tell me where the battery is grounded on a 2012 vstar 950? I’d like to check it for possible corrosion.

Thanks

Last edited by lesblank; 03-17-2019 at 08:10 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 08:56 AM
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It is most likely connected to an engine mount that is just to the right and down from the battery, or mount nearest battery.

2005 V Star 1100 Classic, Mustang seats, Baron ORK, risers and Star handlebar, AIS removed, muffler baffles removed, run/turn/brake light controller, modulating headlight, pods installed in air box, progressive front springs.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 09:27 AM
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Follow the black wire from the - terminal on the battery, wiggle it and see where it goes

sometimes a previous owner will move it, so make sure you are chasing the right one.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I want to check a few things before I repair or replace the starter.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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It’s tough chasing the wires the way they’re crammed in there. Plus I don’t have a garage so I’m at the mercy of Mother Nature here in eastern Pennsylvania.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 11:40 PM
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--

Keep in mind that a ground from the battery can go from the negative post to any frame point that makes good contact. You can always run another wire or a substitute wire if you want. Doesn't have to be the original spot.

--

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting point. That means I could run a cable from the negative side of the battery to the chassis to see if the existing ground is the culprit or not.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 12:15 AM
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I got 2011 950 ground is right in front of belt guard where left leg. Would be if you were on it I replaced mine with a big time 4 gauge along with starter wire and it makes a major difference. I always did car audio " big 3 upgrades" so I did to bike it doesn't add hp. But its one of the best thing if not the best for your ride. Most people think they blow speakers or amps from using them hard 99.9% wrong its bc of under powered too small power ground wires which causes massive heat does it. Bigger the better and much cooler just don't let + be bigger than - think of it like water flowing in and out if more in than out can handle then problems happen and weakest link will be exposed.When you do it to a truck the a.c. blows harder colder lights brighter. Copper is not cheap triple check new wires and connections wire gauge isn't regulated so theres 8awg with more copper tthan some 0awg bike will start so quick, lights brighter,all components will last 10x longer. Any sign of corrosion means trouble. Mine bike had 1400 miles and i felt shock on right. Leg it was the spring thst clutch moves. Use threadlock on every screw on bike red for permanent blue for stuff you add or might change like lights horns. Get metric sockets Phillips and flat and make every nut bolt screw part of your monthly routine no matter how hard they are to get to bikes vibrate and things come loose. And whoever discovered coca cola cleans corrosion is dumbest latest man ever that's like putting tape on check engine light
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for your support! But I am selling my Yamaha to upgrade to a larger motorcycle (non-Yamaha). Maybe someday I will return. Again, I appreciate everyone’s input!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonK View Post
--

Keep in mind that a ground from the battery can go from the negative post to any frame point that makes good contact. You can always run another wire or a substitute wire if you want. Doesn't have to be the original spot.

--

This also means that a previous owner may have added a new ground wire from the battery, and grounded it somewhere else, instead of where its 'suppose to be'.

So if you are chasing a corroded ground wire issue, and you take off the original wire at the frame end, and polish the metal like a mirror, and put it back on, you may have just cleaned up the wire the previous owner cut off at the other end, whre you cant see it.

When you are tracing wires thru a bike its always good to follow them point to point if you can, and if you have a Volt/ohm meter buzz them out too, make sure the wire is not broken in the middle.

You can waste hours, days, and hundreds of dollars on unnecessary parts (like a new alternator or starter) when the problem was a broken or sheared wire, because you checked it at one end, but did not buzz it thru (check the resistance with an ohm meter) to the other end.
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