Star 650 Oil change with filter - Teaching wife how to do it - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Star 650 Oil change with filter - Teaching wife how to do it

In this video I narrate as my wife conducts the oil and filter change procedure on the Star / Vstar / Dragstar / XVS / 650. Though I do explain my reasoning as to why I do not first turn on a bike that has been sitting for a week right before I'm about to dump the oil, your choice.

Note that I would have preferred a small 17mm spanner to open the nut below but I could not find it and went with a crows foot as shown in the video. The filter cover O ring should be inspected and replaced if necessary. If you don't know the last replacement, replace it. Refilling the oil is a two person job unless you have a big stand on level ground. I use Yamalube 10w40. Check with your local Yamaha dealer if you are not sure of the proper oil weight.

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 08:49 AM
KCW
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The video is nicely done. Its difficult to get good camera management and sound quality, I did not notice any of the common AV mistakes made on many videos.

Overall the technical aspects are well done. I do technical writing as part of my job, and its surprisingly difficult to explain how to do something or test something, because the writer knows how to do all of it, and does not realize when he is leaving out important information. You covered it all well.

Also like your shop and your professionally installed garage floor (I have a cousin that installs those).

Couple minor things and one that you might want to edit the audio.

The discussion about warming up the bike or not warming it up is not really necessary. The only comment you need to make is dont run the bike till its hot, because the covers over the filter will be too hot to handle. Warming it up is ok, draining it cold is ok, but you have about 4 minutes of discussion.

You called an open end wrench a spanner a few times - a spanner is an adjustable wrench, like a crescent wrench or a pipe wrench (with an adjustable "span"). You show the right tool to use, the crows foot, but calling it a spanner will confuse people and bring negative comments from anyone in England. You can get a 17mm 6 point socket (craftman and Lowes 3/8" drive both fit from my tool box) and break the nut loose, but you wont be able to spin the nut more that 2 or 3 turns before the socket hits the frame - so break it loose, remove socket, remove bolt with fingers. Tapping the wrench with a hammer is the way to do it. Nicely done.

Before you start pulling the filter covers off, put the oil drain bolt in and torque it up. Dont put it in finger tight, you might forget to torque it. Then slide the oil pan over to the filter side. I use a regular 5 quart oil drain pan from Walmart (not the bottle thing) and it fits under the bike, but it wont reach from the drain hole to the filter side - Ive made that mess twice already. If you drain the oil after running the bike for a few minutes the filter will be full of oil, about 6 ounces is leaking out.

Encourage people to have their owners manual, or their "Bike history book" open, with all the filter and oil requirements and torque settings on one page, and as they remove the cover bolts make a drawing and NOTE where the long bolts go. From memory there are only two sizes, on some other bikes there are 3 different lengths on some covers, and if you put a long bolt where a short one goes it will hit something inside the engine and cause very expensive damage. Its worth the effort to make the little drawing. If you just set the bolts down in the right pattern on the floor, you never know whats going to happen, you get called away, you drop a tool and the bolts scatter.. and then if you just go from memory it can be a very expensive single point failure/mistake. Its one of the few things a person can do during normal maintenance and wreck the engine as a result.

You dont have to hold the bike upright to fill the oil, you will need the right shaped funnel, but as long as the funnel is in the oil fill hole, it wont back up and leak out as you fill it. The FULL level is well below the filler hole. Making an oil change a two person job, or forcing a person to find a way to support the bike on both sides to keep it standing, will stop some people from changing their oil if they dont have a helper.

The last thing is an actual mistake. If you hold the bike upright and fill it with oil till the level is correct in the site glass, you are about 6 ounces low. When you start the bike up it will fill the filter cavity, which is blocked by the oil pump - this is the same oil that does not drain out the drain plug, it comes out when you take the filter off. So you need to put the amount called out by the owners manual with a filter change (3 quarts). Then close the filler, start the engine for a minute, and check the site glass to make sure you did not miss a quart.

BTW an easy way to check the site glass solo is to get a small mirror, sit on the bike in gear, hold the brake with your right hand and reach down with the mirror and look in the window. If you put the full 3 quarts in it will be slightly over the FULL line - you will need to lean the bike just a bit to right to see the top of the oil in the window. A few ounces over will not hurt anything, a full quart over will.

I didnt quite follow the audio when you were checking the oil level- the max (full) level is at the top of the window, not the middle.

These videos you are making are very useful here on the forum. When a new owner asks questions I never tell them to use the search function. Knowing you have good videos on Youtube we can link them in and say "YES! here you go" without coming across as snippy.

Last edited by KCW; 04-01-2019 at 08:59 AM.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 11:55 AM
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Follow up: During lunch I watched the end of the video again to check a few things:

when you put the drain plug back in, the bolt has a copper washer/seal on it. I might be mistaken but I did not see it on yours. Also you did not mention the drain plug needs to be properly torqued. This is one of the things people screw up, the dont tighten it enough and it falls out while riding, oil drains out, and there is no warning light on these bikes for no oil pressure. Or they over torque it and strip the threads out.

At the end when you are filling it and looking at the site glass, you filled it half way and called it good. The top is the full mark, all the way to the bottom is the lower limit, but again, dont bother with that, put the full 3 quarts in, start the bike to fill the oil filter, and then check the site glass and you are done.

BTW, check the last oil bottle you used to fill your wife's bike and check the oil level in the site glass, her bike is about half a quart low. Cant tell if you used a 1 gallon oil bottle...

I think you can fix the filling part by editing the audio, and maybe cutting out the part where you watch the site glass while filling it.

Over all its well done. I have looked up videos for some of my cars, and there is a lot of stuff out there that is outright wrong and will damage your vehicle, or waste your time if you are trying to fix something. Many of those are from russia for some reason.

A well produced video like yours will help a lot of new Vstar owners get their feet wet (pun intended), changing your own oil is the best place for someone to start doing their own wrenching.

BTW, if you are going to make some changes and want to keep this thread as the link to your video, I will be happy to delete these comments once you have seen them.

Last edited by KCW; 04-01-2019 at 03:07 PM.
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