Need your help on this one, folks. - Page 3 - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Btw, these tests were supposed to be done with the ignition off right? No power involved whatsoever ?
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 10:28 PM
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Maybe check and make sure your throttle cable is lubed up good and isn't getting hung up on soething.
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:27 AM
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Btw, these tests were supposed to be done with the ignition off right? No power involved whatsoever ?
That is correct.

2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), Cobra Slash Cut full exhaust, Dropped 1 inch with lowering links, ORK, 4.5 inch handlebar risers, Ultimate passenger seat, Passenger pegs moved forward 4 inches, Handlebar clock, KN air filter, Viking saddlebags, Additional rear lighting
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 05:56 AM
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...Also what kind of screwdriver do I need to buy to get these tps screws off?
No kidding, right? I have forgotten what it's called; I went to my neighbor's auto shop to borrow his... I believe it is the "Torx Driver Security Bit" There are a couple sets online for under $10...but I'll bet your local Auto store has them...

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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Okay I adjusted my sensor to 710 closed throttle. Do I need to adjust my idle again since I lowered the closed throttle range? It was set to 1020rpm before starting the sensor job.
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:53 AM
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When ever you make any adjustments on the carbs you need to resync and adjust idle. It get redundant at times but only way to keep things right.

2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), Cobra Slash Cut full exhaust, Dropped 1 inch with lowering links, ORK, 4.5 inch handlebar risers, Ultimate passenger seat, Passenger pegs moved forward 4 inches, Handlebar clock, KN air filter, Viking saddlebags, Additional rear lighting
Loose nut "me" behind the bars
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Weird. If my idle was set to spec, then I lowered the sensor spec, and that in turn lowered my idle, then wouldnt raising my idle end up raising the sensor number again? Lol 😋
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Sigh......bike handles wonderfully now, but unfortunately the noise is still there. Took it apart when the bike was still warm and tested the sensor and it showed 720 so it was within spec. Any other ideas on wtf is causing that horrible noise on warm start?
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 02:17 PM
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have you ever push-started a vehicle?

if you take the starter out of the loop and see if it still happens or not you can eliminate or implicate the starter as the issue

Ride the bike, park on the down side of a slight hill, turn the ignition on, let the bike coast down hill in neutral up to about 20mph,

EDIT: Kick it up into 2nd gear THEN let out the clutch...

if there is no thunk when it starts, it has to be a starter issue

I cant imagine what else it could be at this point if its not the starter?

Last edited by KCW; 07-23-2019 at 02:38 PM.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 02:20 PM
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just scrolled thru the thread... if you battery is weak it might start up poorly, and start up harder when the engine is hot.

just a thought - can you put a volt meter on the battery while you are starting it (anytime?) It should stay up around 11V while the starter is cranking

if its dropping down to 8 or 9V your battery is old and tired
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