where is my electrical short? - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
Super Moderator
 
bevo1981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Austin
Posts: 12,983
where is my electrical short?

i have a V Star 950

all of a sudden, i have a short somewhere that keeps popping my 10a fuse that knocks out my headlight, brake light, and turn signals. it's not affecting my front and tail running lights.

the last thing i've done anything electrical to my bike was replacing my rear turn signals with an LED array by Radiantz that was professionally installed by my painter more than a month ago. the bike has been running fine up until today, about 30 miles down the road and then my lights go out. i replaced the fuse and then it blew again just a few seconds later after starting up my bike and testing the brake and high beam.

i was on my way to a bike rally and then had to turn around and go home before it got dark. i'd like to get this solved tonight because i want to enter my bike into the bike show at the rally tomorrow but don't want to be out on the road even in the daylight if my lights aren't working, especially my brake signal.

how do i find out what is causing my short?

here's a list of electrical items that i've added to my bike and none have caused any problems so far: kuryakyn power point, back off brake modulator, lighted Kuryakyn license plate, cobra Fi2000r, replaced rear turn signals with Radiantz LED array

please help guys
bevo1981 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 09:16 PM
Senior Member
 
linerdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: N. E. Ohio
Posts: 1,531
Fuse

Bevo,

Isn't that susposed to be a 15 Amp fuse?

Check the battery Voltage with the engine running maybe reved a little bit. It should not be much over 14 Volts. If it is high your regulator may be bad.

Dave
linerdave is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 09:24 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,880
Bevo, I would love to say "yeah, I know what it is" but I do not. Electrical stuff can be (and to me is) a nightmare. The way I figure it out is follow your wires, start from a termnal point, ie, what ain't workin and trace it all the way to power supply, each one. Time consumin for sure and very simplistic, but has worked for me. Hope this may help a bit to get you going Ride safe.

Ride Safe, Live Long
Sugar Bear is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2011, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
Super Moderator
 
bevo1981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Austin
Posts: 12,983
Quote:
Originally Posted by linerdave View Post
Isn't that susposed to be a 15 Amp fuse?

Check the battery Voltage with the engine running maybe reved a little bit. It should not be much over 14 Volts. If it is high your regulator may be bad.

Dave
it's a 10 amp. that's what it was from the factory. maybe this is important: the fuse blew after just 3 months of first owning the bike before i had ever done anything electrical to it, but it may have been a different 10a fuse because it only knocked out my tail light at the time.

UPDATE:
so i found a couple unused wires from my BACK OFF brake modulator which the ends were slightly exposed and taped them off, but they've always been there like that for at least a year. i replaced the fuse again, turned the key on, and now my brake signal was working again. then i turned the ignition and it immediately blew. the first time i replaced the fuse, my headlight was on for a few seconds before blowing.

i don't know if i want to be taking my bike apart so i can follow every single wire since i'm not that skilled in electrics to begin with and it's a big undertaking and very time consuming. thanks for the tip on the battery voltage, but would that just affect one fuse? i don't have a voltage meter to even check it. think i may just have to take it in to the dealer, or take it back to my painter since he's the last to have touched my electrical system and have a pro check it out.
bevo1981 is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 06:26 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,088
I'll guess they will bypass everything one wire at a time until they locate the one or two or three or however many wires are shorted and then replace them, or replace that whole bundle. Might get pricey. Headlight bucket is pretty jam packed with wires, I'd have a look at every wire inside there first and see if you can see something suspicious.

Good Luck Bevo



stratowart is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 06:57 AM
Senior Member
 
Aussielad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,088
Quote:
Originally Posted by bevo1981 View Post
it's a 10 amp. that's what it was from the factory. maybe this is important: the fuse blew after just 3 months of first owning the bike before i had ever done anything electrical to it, but it may have been a different 10a fuse because it only knocked out my tail light at the time.

UPDATE:
so i found a couple unused wires from my BACK OFF brake modulator which the ends were slightly exposed and taped them off, but they've always been there like that for at least a year. i replaced the fuse again, turned the key on, and now my brake signal was working again. then i turned the ignition and it immediately blew. the first time i replaced the fuse, my headlight was on for a few seconds before blowing.

i don't know if i want to be taking my bike apart so i can follow every single wire since i'm not that skilled in electrics to begin with and it's a big undertaking and very time consuming. thanks for the tip on the battery voltage, but would that just affect one fuse? i don't have a voltage meter to even check it. think i may just have to take it in to the dealer, or take it back to my painter since he's the last to have touched my electrical system and have a pro check it out.
Bevo, like you I am no auto electrician and have had my share of elec problems, mine were with the rear loom to blinkers and tail/brake light. I never had the problem till I removed the rear fender for colour matching, after replacing the rear fender a 'back feed' developed, I would put on the brakes and the indicators would both glow as if they were the brakes, and the tailight, brakes would not operate at all. After much frustration I had the rear loom looked at (mates rates) a mate of mine who owns a hydraulics company had his elec look and service it, and it is better but still temperamental with a short that causes a minor flash in the opposite indicator when I place the left one on. Like Stratowart said, and I know its a pain but a check of each individual wire may reveal and exposure, and check the couplings as they can be notorious for shorting if not connected correctly. I'm in the process of having all mine soldered instead of crimped. Don't know if any of this will be of use but hope you can get it sorted soon, bloddy frusting I know.
Aussielad is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 09:18 AM
Senior Member
 
Fulltilt1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,530
Does anyone have a wiring print of the 950. I've done electrical for 26yrs but without a print and being remote it's like finding the lights switch somewhere in the stadium at gametime. Get me a print and I'll guide you through the process.

GW
2005 1100 Custom
Speedster Slashdowns
ORKed 5/16" Lines
PODs K&N RU-600s W/PCV
PCS XXX/2 cams
Jetted & PMS Tweaked 20.0/152.5 3.0 turns
AIS Removed/Plugged
Wimmer Machine Custom Oil Cooler & Stash Tube
Pro-1 Tach
Dyna 3000 Step 5/ 6500 redline
TPS Connected
6" Fwd Control Extension W/Boards F&R
Memphis Shades Bullet Fairing
Progressive 465 rear
Progressive Springs and GVE front

10,000 Monkeys throwing crap at the glass and this one thinks he's Picasso...
Fulltilt1 is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 10:42 AM
Senior Member
 
farmalldanzil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: EL Reno OK
Posts: 2,904
Garage
I looked online for a print and only found a poor one and not much help at all. It did show the headlight as a 15a and the turn signals at 10a with the horn on that cir. With out a print there is not much to do
farmalldanzil is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 11:23 AM
Senior Member
 
linerdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: N. E. Ohio
Posts: 1,531
Headlight fuse

I could not find a manual for the 950 but the manual for the 1300 calls for 20 amp fuse in the head light. (On Paul Milner's site. )

If you fuse to close to the actual current the in-rush at power up will blow the fuse. If you have an amp meter you can measure the current at the fuse then double it.

Dave
linerdave is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2011, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
Super Moderator
 
bevo1981's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Austin
Posts: 12,983
what effect would it have if i put in a larger amp fuse?
bevo1981 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome