New handlebars on the way! - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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New handlebars on the way!

I have been wanting to do this for a while. I finally ordered some new handlebars (10" ape hangars). I'm a little nervous about having to possibly reroute the wires through the handlebars, but mostly because it's going to be a pain in the butt. I'll also have to replace the clutch cable and the brake line with extended versions of each. I'll try to post pictures as I go.

The only question I really have at this point is about the brake lines. I have replaced brake fluid before, but it was a few years ago and on a car. So I'm familiar with the process of replacing the fluid, but not the actual lines. Am I going to have to drain the brake fluid from all of the brake lines, or can I somehow cut off the flow (to keep air bubbles out of the lines) and only have to replace the brake fluid in the one line that needs to be extended? Should I just try to replace all of the brake fluid in all the brake lines?

Thanks for your input in advance,
Jesse.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 08:31 PM
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It's going to need to be replaced and the brakes bled. The rear is a separate unit so no worries there. It's not much.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 08:44 PM
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if you replace the lines quickly, i would loosen the cap on the master cylinder and then tie the brake lever back and leave over nite,works very good,i completly drained my mc and line over a weeks period.i filled the mc with fluid and tied the lever back over nite refilled the next day and left it for a week the brake is firmer than i have ever seen.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 09:41 PM
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I've heard you can put on 10" apes without having to replace any lines. I've also heard you can go up to 12" and only have to replace the 1 brake line. I have yet to make the switch myself but am hoping to this spring. Good luck! I am interested to hear how things go for you.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 10:34 PM
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when you say "all the brake lines", are you talking about the rear brake line as well? aren't you only replacing the front brake line? as far as replacing brake fluid, i would replace all of it at the same time. it's cheap enough and you don't want to have to remember which line has older brake fluid than the other and then set yourself up for different intervals of changing brake fluid on 2 different lines at 2 different times. unless i misunderstood you.

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if you replace the lines quickly, i would loosen the cap on the master cylinder and then tie the brake lever back and leave over nite,works very good,i completly drained my mc and line over a weeks period.i filled the mc with fluid and tied the lever back over nite refilled the next day and left it for a week the brake is firmer than i have ever seen.
what does "replace quickly" mean? you took a week to drain it? did i miss something?

this whole thread is confusing

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 10:54 PM
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if you replace quickly you might not get air below the lowest connection.replacing all the fluid is the best thing.but tying the lever back over night works.i didnt even try to bleed just tied the lever.i have 10 inch apes with 4 inch risers and my clutch is 6inch over throttle 2 inch over and brake is at least 2 over 07 custom.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks guys.

Quote:
when you say "all the brake lines", are you talking about the rear brake line as well? aren't you only replacing the front brake line?
Bevo, I was thinking that all of the brake lines were one unit, not separated into front and rear, that was what I meant by "all the brake lines". Now that I know that the front and rear are separate units I'll end up replacing the fluid in the front lines first, and then the back lines later in the season.

Nick, I'm pretty confused by what you are talking about. What do you mean by
Quote:
tying the lever back over night works.i didnt even try to bleed just tied the lever.
Do you mean that you tied the brake lever down to the handlebar and just poured brake fluid down the lines until you didn't see air bubbles anymore and then released the brake lever?

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 05:41 PM
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you tie the lever to the handle it doesent have to be hard. loosen resivoiuer cap and overnight the bubbles will float to the top.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick57 View Post
you tie the lever to the handle it doesent have to be hard. loosen resivoiuer cap and overnight the bubbles will float to the top.
Ok, that makes much more sense. Thanks for that tip. The one thing I hate about changing the brake fluid is sitting there and trying to get all the bubbles out of the lines.

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Cobra Slash Cut Slip-on Pipes
Pro-One Pullback Risers with Tachometer
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, the handlebars came in today and it is looking like my brake line is just barely too short. I've called a couple of the Yamaha dealers around me and no one has any "custom length" brake lines...so I'm going to the custom harley shop by my house and having them make me some. That will hopefully be tomorrow morning. I'll let you all know how that works out.

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Maxair Idle Mixture Screws
Cobra Slash Cut Slip-on Pipes
Pro-One Pullback Risers with Tachometer
Custom Clock
Custom Passing Lamps
Custom World Driver's Backrest
Yamaha/Corbin Studded seat with concho
Cobra Passenger Floorboards
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