Electrical Gremlins - Turn Signals/Neutral Light... UGH! - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Electrical Gremlins - Turn Signals/Neutral Light... UGH!

Ok, so I have a 2000 650 Classic and it's had some mods... namely an aftermarket LED tail-light. Looks good but apparently the rear turn signals kept getting broken off by passengers. I don't have the stock setup.

In fact, I don't have ANY turn signals. Front or back.

So, I bought some aftermarket turn signals and some extra headlights. My understanding is this;

GREEN = Right Turn
BROWN = Left Turn
BLUE = Constant
BLACK = Ground (which comes from the actual headlight pigtail)

So... I hooked up the right side... and just to clear a dozen questions - I tried all sort of combinations just to be sure. Nothing.

So I checked the fuses... signal fuse was burned out. Replaced it. Then my neutral light starter working again - sweet! And the turn-signal INDICATOR came on for a few seconds but wouldn't shut off... so I hit the right side switch thinking that would kill it. And it did - just not the way I expected. It popped the fuse. This happened several times.

I put in a 15a fuse TEMPORARILY to help track down the bad ground/connection... the flasher relay instantly started smoking so I pulled the fuse.

Now, I've got nothing. I don't even have my normal tail light working. Wtf?

I'm sure being 14 years old... you guys must have a general idea on where I should look to get this fixed. Also... I probably need a new flasher. Anyone have one they can send me STAT!?!? In the meantime, is there a way I can test turn signals without the relay? Can I bypass it or something? I'd hate to burn up another one anyway and just putting in more 10a fuses isn't going to do anything. They will just keep popping until I find the source of the problem.

Or have I answered my own question and learned that the flasher WAS the source of my problem?? Help me out guys!!

FYI - here's the front turn signal setup I bought...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310830637306...84.m1497.l2649

And here's the rear... but I don't think they're big enough, bright enough or... RED enough lol.... so they will be replaced. I'd like to go stock back there if I can find a setup at a reasonable price. Anyway, here is what I'm working with right now - but I haven't touched them yet. Only the front.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111141390372...84.m1439.l2649
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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No replies? ugh.....
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 01:21 PM
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what, did you hook the blue wire.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't hook up the blue wire... I assumed it was for adding extra headlights.

BUT... I think I have it figured out!

The turn signals must ground themselves out, right? So the two wires are BOTH positive! One wire being the constant running light and the other - the flasher. Right? So when I had one wire coming from the turn signal to the green wire... and the other wire going to the ground... it was popping the fuse every time I hit the turn signal!

That's the only thing that makes sense. Sadly, I can't be sure since I burned up the flasher and the rest of my 10a fuses. And no Yamaha dealers around here either. Ugh! SO, as soon as I get a new flasher - I'll know for sure.

Can anyone confirm this?

And since I have three headlights... can I simply NOT wire up the running light for the front turn signals? That way they only come on when activated? Or since they're LEDs, do they have to be totally wired up so they will stay on but flash brighter when activated?

I bought this light setup but I can't really figure out what the purpose of having three lights is. I mean, I guess I can aim the outside smaller two like spotlights kinda. That could be helpful. But since you just wire them to be on all the time.... what's the point of having them setup like halos? Do people wire in extra switches?
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 09:25 PM
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at the front you have a black,green, and blue.the lights are grounded thru the black.the green or the brown are the signal wires,and the blue is the constant running light.If you are connecting the blue to your driving lights i would think the fuse is not rated.if you do not use the amber running lights people will have a hard time seeing you.In the rear you have a green, brown, and a black the black is ground and the green and brown are left and right signals,there is a blue wire but it is the taillight.if you check the wkb pages in the lighting section, you will find info about turn signals you can get info about a flasher,autozone sells flashers for led lights.but you will probably lose the self cancellating feature of the turn signals.so oem would be ideal.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Right, but I'm wondering if the turn signals come grounded to the frame... If not, then there's some other problem.

I have amber front LED turn signals and only two wires come from the light itself. Shouldn't there be three? A green (for right side and brown for left side), a blue for constant and a black for ground? I've never seen a stock Vstar lit up.

So, do the Vstar amber turn signals stay on all the time? And then when you activate the turn signal - it flashes brighter/dimmer?
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 10:12 PM
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how many wires do you have on your after market signals? If it is two then you need to hook them up to the flasher and ground only. If it is three then the constant on flasher and ground. BTW LEDS are fickle if you wired it backwards anywhere it will ground out and blow the fuse every time.

If you have your brake light wired backwards it will do the same thing. I can tell you the headlight brake light and blinkers all run off the same wires. IE no headlight no brake light. I just went through a gremlin of my own and it was a ground issue inside my handle bars...

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014, 10:17 PM
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Wire Colors in Headlight Bucket





Yellow = High Beam Hot
Green = Low Beam Hot
Blue = Both Running Lights / Switched Hot - good place to "drive" solenoids
Dark-Green = Right Turn signal
Chocolate = Left Turn signal
Black = Ground





Wire Colors in Taillight Junction (Behind Plate) and also under the seat where wires go to rear.





Blue = Running Light (always hot when key is on) - good place to "drive" solenoids
Yellow = Brake Light
Black = Ground
Brown = Left Signal
Green = Right signal


sounds to me like you are running both fronts off the same side not one from the brown and one from the blue and both back to ground. And yes they both need to go to the same ground.

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SOLD 1999 Bobber https://www.starbikeforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=39129

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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for replies!

Not running both from the same hot.... I only have ONE hooked up, lol! I didn't figure I'd attempt to hook up a second one until I got one working first.

And I knew LEDs were funny... I've done a lot of aftermarket wiring in cars/trucks. In fact, installing halos and HIDs in my Durango this week. I do all my own automotive electrical work.

And yes, turn signals only have two wires coming from them. I started with the right signal and wired the pos+ to the extra green wire and I wired the neg- to the only black wire in the casing. Now, maybe my flasher was already bad before I touched anything BUT... I still got nothing. It keeps popping fuses.

I'm going to install a new flasher to rule that problem out. Then I'll go from there. Thanks for the input fellas.

I will say this though... the only way I got the right turn signal to power on at all (and this is just being on solid - no flashing, and also with no fuse in) was when I connected one wire to the GREEN and the other to the BLUE. So unless the turn signal is grounded to the mounting bracket then... something funny is going on.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 05:10 AM
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OK to save you a ton of trouble here's a primer guide on troubleshooting electrical. First stop trying things by hooking up the lights and seeing what happens. One way it will work 50 other ways will damage something or cause a fire. So get a multi meter. They are cheap. You can get one for free with a coupon at harbor freight. No more replacing fuses or flashers or melting wires etc. Next Google a wiring schematic for your bike or maybe someone on here has one for you. Finally get the diagram for your aftermarket lights. Now its just a matter if measuring things. Test for voltage where it should be and not where it shouldn't. You are either connecting wrong or the wiring is screwed up in which case you wouldn't never get it right. One wire should have power and one should be ground. One of those should switch with the blinker ( usually the positive ). If you have combination lights (stay on as running lights then get brighter as blinkers) then you will have a constant and a switched positive. Once you identify your blink and ground you can connect your meter in place of the light and watch the voltage turn on and off. Then just connect those wires up per the diagram that comes with the lights. You can use a test light but the meter let's you do more detailed testing.
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