1100 Starter Clutch install specific question - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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1100 Starter Clutch install specific question

I know there are several posts related to the dreaded starter clutch replacement. I tried my best to search the threads but have not found information on my particular issue. How is the new starter clutch bolted to the flywheel? Is there a special procedure that is not outlined in the manual?

I bought an updated kit from ebay. The first kit lasted about a day. To be honest I didn't like the way it felt right out of the package. When I bolted it to the flywheel it felt tight, I thought it may losen up. It did, but both ways.

I contacted the ebayer and they sent out another. Felt fine right out of the package. The outer starter clutch ring would not fit inside the lip of the flywheel, it was just a bit big. I put the starter clutch in the freezer and heated the flywheel up. Managed to tap it in. The inner race will not insert into the one way bearing. I can get it in but then it will not rotate.

I am reaching out to someone who actually installed a kit, preferably from ebay. I can't find any info on how to actually assemble the starter clutch. Seems simple enough to do.

Did you do anything special to mate the starter clutch to the flywheel?
Did you keep the inner and outer races together (tried that, cant get to the allen bolts)?

Please Help
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 10:13 PM
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This is the kit I installed last month:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/380768659192


It went together just as expected, no need to do anything special other than twist in the needle bearing but that was no big deal. No issues thus far it's started the bike a few dozen times since then.

My bike is a 2007 vstar 1100
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aahz View Post
This is the kit I installed last month:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/380768659192


It went together just as expected, no need to do anything special other than twist in the needle bearing but that was no big deal. No issues thus far it's started the bike a few dozen times since then.

My bike is a 2007 vstar 1100
Can you describe what you mean by "twist in the needle bearing"?

Thanks
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 09:18 PM
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The needle bearing (the copper piece in that kit) would not slide directly on. It had to be fed into place by turning the outer gear clockwise I think... that way it would feed and seat itself between the rotor and starter clutch drive gear. I didn't think to take any pictures of the install...

Here's how it went:
I put the one way bearing in place and torqued down the new retainer ring. Then, I slipped on the new drive gear. Next, I lubricated the needle bearing and slid it on as far as it would easily go. Then, I twisted or spun (by hand) the drive gear it so it would properly seat the needle bearing. After that, it was just putting on the retainer ring, the clip, and the springs. The last "tricky" part was seating the final gear that meshes with the idler. I had to (gently) use a mallet to get it to drop back in between the spring sets.


The hardest part of the whole job was finding the little clutch springs and the "sprags" from the new one -way bearing when I dropped both of them on the garage floor!

Last edited by Aahz; 04-06-2014 at 09:26 PM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Bump. Anybody do one of these with one of these aftermarket kits with factory style one way bearing?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 11:15 PM
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How does your new bearing compare to the old one? Obviously at least one of the dimensions is different??

I think I lubed the bearing and spun that gear in order to seat it as well. Definitely no need for a torch or a freezer.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up getting a refund for the knock-off kit and going OEM. I had to use a grinder to cut the outer race as much as possible and chisel it out. The OEM one went together perfect. I popped out the inner race and applied assembly lube and then put the race back in. I slipped it as an assembly onto the flywheel. Then I removed the inner race and torqued the outer race down. I put the inner race and bearing in and it was perfect.

A couple of tips that helped me out. When I pulled the flywheel off the gear stayed in place so I didn't have to mess with cam timing. But that required inserting the 6 dampening springs and pins. I just packing them with grease and set the flywheel back in place. I also removed the starter for easier alignment.

I won't have this bike much longer or be on this forum much longer either.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 08:00 PM
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ahhhh....the high price of "good" deals on Ebay. You are just one of many with the same issue. I would never buy the cheapest part I could find for a job that big. OEM Yamaha is the only way to go.

Sorry you had to find out the hard way...at least you got your money back....most don't.

Sick Mick* 2006 V Star 1100 Custom

--- Striping, lettering and paint by Sick Mick – 6* Tree - 2" extended forks – 21" front wheel - HK Sideburners - Progressive rear shock – Pods – Sick Mick solenoid delete - Spring seat - and other stuff
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