Valve, Throttle 1 replacement.... - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Valve, Throttle 1 replacement....

I just noticed one of the 4 plastic retainers in it that holds the needle assembly is broken, its #4 on the Carb diagram of parts.... i just saw the price and its almost 50 bucks just for that F#$&&&# piece of plastic.... does anyone know if there is an aftermarket that is cheaper and decently priced? , or can I still use it without the 4 plastic clips?

Last edited by fguzman0707; 08-28-2014 at 05:48 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 05:51 PM
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I had the exact same thing happen. I searched and could not find an aftermarket piece. I paid the stealership nearly $70 because I couldn't wait for shipping from Partzilla. I did buy a second one from Partzilla. I figured if the plastic was that brittle on the first one... The little needle holder thingy with the o ring won't stay in place with one of the fingers broken.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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I had the exact same thing happen. I searched and could not find an aftermarket piece. I paid the stealership nearly $70 because I couldn't wait for shipping from Partzilla. I did buy a second one from Partzilla. I figured if the plastic was that brittle on the first one... The little needle holder thingy with the o ring won't stay in place with one of the fingers broken.

Holy smokes!!!.... ... $70 bucks??.... the stealership here has it for $52 and its in stock, i think im gonna have to take that route...
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 08:02 PM
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Just fix the one you have.

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...-modifications

Scroll down to Throttle Valve "Finger" Emergency Repair

Sick Mick* 2006 V Star 1100 Custom

--- Striping, lettering and paint by Sick Mick 6* Tree - 2" extended forks 21" front wheel - HK Sideburners - Progressive rear shock Pods Sick Mick solenoid delete - Spring seat - and other stuff
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Just fix the one you have.

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...-modifications

Scroll down to Throttle Valve "Finger" Emergency Repair

I just went and bought the new one for the sake of saving time.... installed it, went down to 2.5 turns on PMS, down to 1 shim on the needle and its still giving the same problems of running sluggish and popping.. .. im about to give up and just take it to a shop..
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 02:13 AM
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After I installed my Chubby pod kit and Cobra 2 into 1 exhaust I had the same problem. The bike just labored and felt sluggish. The spark plugs were white as snow. Way too lean. I made one change at a time and started to richen it up. Now, PMS are at 4 turns, I've got #30 pilot jets, needles are shimmed stock + 2 and 152.5 mains and finally I've got a little color on the spark plugs and the bike runs the best it's ever run from idle to wide open. Good throttle response, revs good and great torque. I know I'm richer than most but that's what it took for me. Don't give up. I got really sick of taking the seat, tank and carbs off my bike but it's worth it. I'm extremely happy with the way it runs now.

Last edited by tstrobl1; 08-29-2014 at 02:26 AM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 07:53 AM
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Just fix the one you have.

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1...-modifications

Scroll down to Throttle Valve "Finger" Emergency Repair
Just looked at this just for the heck of it. That's a pretty slick trick. Kudos to Jack for figuring that one out. An obvious instance where necessity was mother to invention.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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After I installed my Chubby pod kit and Cobra 2 into 1 exhaust I had the same problem. The bike just labored and felt sluggish. The spark plugs were white as snow. Way too lean. I made one change at a time and started to richen it up. Now, PMS are at 4 turns, I've got #30 pilot jets, needles are shimmed stock + 2 and 152.5 mains and finally I've got a little color on the spark plugs and the bike runs the best it's ever run from idle to wide open. Good throttle response, revs good and great torque. I know I'm richer than most but that's what it took for me. Don't give up. I got really sick of taking the seat, tank and carbs off my bike but it's worth it. I'm extremely happy with the way it runs now.



thanks man , after reading your post I think im gonna go with Pods and dump the K&N cone filter i currently have even tho i love the looks of that chromed up cone.... im working blindly with that intake system and its driving me nuts, i need an intake system that is less of a miss so Ill just go with the pods.,.. where did you get yours?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fguzman0707 View Post
I just went and bought the new one for the sake of saving time.... installed it, went down to 2.5 turns on PMS, down to 1 shim on the needle and its still giving the same problems of running sluggish and popping.. .. im about to give up and just take it to a shop..
why dont you try setting the screws at two turns out might clear out the sluggishness
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2014, 07:36 PM
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thanks man , after reading your post I think im gonna go with Pods and dump the K&N cone filter i currently have even tho i love the looks of that chromed up cone.... im working blindly with that intake system and its driving me nuts, i need an intake system that is less of a miss so Ill just go with the pods.,.. where did you get yours?
SS Custom Cycle. The original "Chubby" pod kit. I hear you on the cool looking intake. I had a Hypercharger and same as you, I loved the looks but performance comes first. Please don't get me wrong and I'm appreciative of everyone on the forum that gave me advice but none of it worked for me. My spark plugs were white as snow. As soon as I started to go richer than anyone told me I'd ever need to be, the bike started running better and better. Maybe I missed it but what do your spark plugs look like? Are they white like mine were? You said the float bowl seemed difficult to reinstall. The main jet holder(#10 in the carb diagram)has an o ring(#44). Mick is telling you to remove that o ring. That's why it's hard to fit the float bowl. That o ring fits tight in the bottom of the float bowl and you don't need it since you have aftermarket exhaust. The other o ring that Mick mentioned is the tiny o ring on top of the carb under the diaphragm cover. That one is #23 in the diagram. It's easy to lose them and overlook the fact that they aren't there. I think the experienced guys on the forum forget what it's like when you first start out taking carbs apart and trying to diagnose and tune yourself. I am a former national champion shifter kart tuner and these carbs took me awhile to figure out as far as tuning goes. Hang in there man, you will be way proud of yourself once this is ironed out!

Last edited by tstrobl1; 08-29-2014 at 08:00 PM.
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