My 2001 V-Star 650 Custom project - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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My 2001 V-Star 650 Custom project

This isn't anything fancy, but here's my write-up. I forgot to take pictures half the time. Oops.

Back in November, I was given a 2001 V-Star 650 Custom. It has 34k miles, but had been sitting outside, uncovered, for about 3 years. The owner never started it or anything. I think he laid the bike down, was too scared to get back on it, and gave up.

Here she is as I picked her up:




The previous owner installed t-bars, Cobra drag pipes(with no baffles), lowered the rear, and removed all the controls and turn signals. It's hard to tell from the images, but it's in pretty rough shape. Most of the chrome is damaged, the tires are shot, the carbs are gummed up solid. On top of that, the owner didn't have the key anymore. My first job was to get the ignition cylinder off, get a key made, and check the gas tank. Luckily, it was perfectly clean:



Seeing this, I decided to rip most of the bike apart. I pulled the carbs, soaked them, and cleaned all passages with carb cleaner and guitar string. I had to replace about 75% of the wire terminals, since they were all corroded.

I also decided to paint the most heavily corroded areas. Since I figured I'd want a daily rider that I didn't have to baby, I went with matte black. I painted the exhaust, engine block, head covers, frame, front shocks, and swing arm covers.

After finally getting it partially re-assembled, it was time to try and get it started. And it fired right up. At this point, I completely reassembled her. I also changed the engine and final drive oil.




I then drove her around the neighborhood for a little bit. Whenever I would give it enough gas to move onto the main jet circuit, she would completely bog down. I decided to pull the carbs back apart, thinking maybe I skipped over something. turns out, the stock 92 jets were still installed. I replaced them with 125s, and now it pulls hard when you get on it. I thought maybe I went too high in jet size, but so far, the plugs still look good.

After this...well, some kind of bug bit me. I should have just hopped on the bike and enjoyed it. Instead, I decided to add meaning to the "Custom" moniker.

I started by chopping the rear fender.




But it didn't quite look right with the factory color scheme. So I painted the tank, rear fender, side covers, and mirrors with black bedliner. I also removed the front fender.




You may notice I never fixed the dent in the tank. I decided I was going to try and keep cost and effort as minimal as possible. I just wanted to ride the bike. There are no cracks or holes where's it's dented, so it's just cosmetic.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Now it was time to tackle the electrical system. There were no turn signals. The horn and starter buttons were located on the tool box cover. The headlight was hard wired to always be on high beam. I needed a new tail/brake and tag light.

So, starting with the tag light and mount, I decided to just use a piece of angle iron. I cut it to length, painted it with bedliner, and mounted it on the forward two bolts of the final drive. The tag light is a simple white LED strip glued to the angle iron.



The tail/brake light is simple LED strip glued to the top trailing edge of the fender, using a simple circuit consisting of a resistor and diode. The rear turn signals are also LED strips, glued to the side trailing edges of the fender.




The front turn signals are also LED strips, wrapped around the fork tubes. They ended up being smaller than I expected, but they'll do for now.




As for switches, I decided I liked the clean look of the handlebars. I mounted all my switches in the speedometer housing.



Above the Yamaha logo is a SPDT on/off/on switch for the turn signals. The black push button to the left of that is the horn button. The toggle to the upper left of the speedo is the high beam switch. And the push button to the upper right of the speedo is the starter button.

I also put new grips, since I HATED the chrome grips.



I also have new mirrors on order, they should be in sometime in the next week.

And that's pretty much where she sits right now. The next couple weeks will be spent taking care of mechanical issues.

This weekend will be the front end. I'll be replacing the front tire, tube, rim strip, fork seals, wheel bearings, and tree bearings. I'll also be re-routing the throttle cable, and making sure the hoses/wires/cables are secure and won't bind.

Next weekend, I'll be replacing the rear tire, tube, and rim strip. I'll be using a slightly wider tire, 180/70, instead of 170/80. I'll also be replacing the wheel bearings, and lubing the drive shaft.

I also have to check the valves, which I neglected to do. I'd like to change out the clutches, but after adjusting the clutch cable, they feel fine.

One thing I'm debating on is painting the wheels. I don't really want to, as I feel I've passed the critical mass level of matte black. I think I'll just work on lifting the rust, and maybe just paint the spokes, since they have some decent oxidation on them.

After that, I'd like to get some baffles for the exhaust. The sound is growing on me, but the lack of low end power isn't. I'll also most likely re-shape and re-cover the seat myself. And AIS removal is definitely in the very near future.

So far, I've spent about $600, including the tires. I figure, if I can keep it under $1000, I'll be a happy man.

Feel free to ask any questions. I'll post an update this weekend. Thanks for reading!
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 10:58 PM
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Looks great ! How did you mount the plate holder to the frame tho ?
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-23-2015, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

I used the forward two bolts of the final drive, and washers behind the plate holder.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-23-2015, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the seals, tube, and liner didn't make it by this weekend. But I got the load resistors, so I may finish up the turn signals. I just have to install the load resistors, and put a couple diodes at the indicator light to restore turn signal functionality. I also have to do a valve adjustment on my buddy's Ninja 500R this weekend.

But again, a bug bit me. I have an Arduino sitting here, not being used. For those that don't know, an Arduino is a small microcontroller, designed to be flexible and easy to use.

For some background on me...my profession is automotive HVAC. I've been working as a technician professionally for 11 years. My father has been a mechanic for 45 years, so growing up, all I did was work on cars. I'm literally that guy that has been turning wrenches since he was 5. I did 3 years of college in Electrical Engineering. I've always had a severe thirst for knowledge.

So, back to the Arduino. I decided I want a brake light flasher. But I haven't really found a unit that I liked, regardless of price range. With the Arduino, I can easily build one, that can be custom tailored to my needs. Not only that, I can change flash rates and patterns at any time with some simple code changes.

To go even further, I'm also considering using the Arduino to control my turn signals. I'll be able to add subtle flashing patterns to each light individually, to enhance visibility without being overly obnoxious.

Anyways, that's where I'm at. I'm working on the schematic and parts list now, and hopefully I'll have a prototype working by the end of next week. At the very minimum, I should have something running in a simulator by the end of the weekend.

I'll update then.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-23-2015, 07:25 PM
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The wheels in gunmetal grey would look nice....

If the chrome rims are in decent shape just do the spoke areas.

Nice bike though. your on the right track....

Cool...

2000 Vstar 650 Classic , Firethorn orange Metal flake Urethane, OEM tall Windshield, 47 Harley Tail light mod, progressive springs, hard bags painted to match w/chr. bullet accents Custom Modified rear rack/backrest, Cobra Modified exhaust w/ chrome Pencil tips, Hyper charger kit,
PRV 15, Riser mounted speakers, Chrome levers,Fringe grips, studded Leather bib with pocket, Billet Oil filter relocation kit , 3.5 PMS w/ stock pilots, mains- 122.5, Custom billet t signals
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmm...you may be on to something there. I'm pretty sure I can save the chrome on the wheels. But I very well may paint the spokes black, and front caliper, rear drive, and drum gunmetal grey. I'll have to sit on it for a bit. Thanks!

Also, a small update. I got the turn signals working properly finally. I also got my new mirrors in, which are cheap $20 mirrors from eBay. A bit smaller than I expected, but I'm happy with how they look on the bike.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 09:00 PM
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You can plug the two holes in the left side cover with Chrome Bullets.
Since you moved all the switches to the speedo cluster.

Many people like the Satin black or Hot rod flat black. and it does look great on some bikes. The balance between dark and chrome or silver items can make all the difference.

I have always been a fan of Red, black, silver. A combo of the three colors can be very pleasing.

The mirrors look cool, I hope they have enough adjustment in them.

If you do the spokes in black try to keep the rims chrome.
This makes the wheels look much better than all black.

my 2 cents

jake

2000 Vstar 650 Classic , Firethorn orange Metal flake Urethane, OEM tall Windshield, 47 Harley Tail light mod, progressive springs, hard bags painted to match w/chr. bullet accents Custom Modified rear rack/backrest, Cobra Modified exhaust w/ chrome Pencil tips, Hyper charger kit,
PRV 15, Riser mounted speakers, Chrome levers,Fringe grips, studded Leather bib with pocket, Billet Oil filter relocation kit , 3.5 PMS w/ stock pilots, mains- 122.5, Custom billet t signals
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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I like the way you think.

I'm actually a huge fan of red and black, and I'm loving the way black and chrome looks now. I feel I've gone a bit too far with the black, though it wasn't bad before I painted the tank and fender. I'd really like to sneak some red in there, tastefully, I'm just not sure how yet. I'm thinking maybe keeping red specific to the engine might look good. Such as the head covers, the outer edges of the cooling fins, maybe the bolt heads.

The mirrors just barely have enough adjustment. The right one is okay, but the left is as far up as it can go. I think I may be able to move the clutch down a bit and still be comfortable.

I put some effort into cleaning up the wheels a bit more, and I'm pretty sure I can save almost all the chrome, except for two tiny spots.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 07:47 AM
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Well let me take a stab at where to put the red.

Make sure to use Cherry Red.

Headlight bucket
Frame neck covers
6" up on the front fork lowers
Both side covers
Rear drive assembly/Brake drum

Done !

2000 Vstar 650 Classic , Firethorn orange Metal flake Urethane, OEM tall Windshield, 47 Harley Tail light mod, progressive springs, hard bags painted to match w/chr. bullet accents Custom Modified rear rack/backrest, Cobra Modified exhaust w/ chrome Pencil tips, Hyper charger kit,
PRV 15, Riser mounted speakers, Chrome levers,Fringe grips, studded Leather bib with pocket, Billet Oil filter relocation kit , 3.5 PMS w/ stock pilots, mains- 122.5, Custom billet t signals
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