Removing pick-up assembly from crankcase - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Question Removing pick-up assembly from crankcase

Hey guys,

Trying to remove the stator and pickup assembly in order to send the crankcase cover to get powder coated. Having a bit of a tough time getting the stupid phillips head bolts out since I would imagine there is a good factory lock tite on them.

I have been using an impact screw drive to attempt to crack the bolts loose and get them out, but to no avail.

They have moved about 2 mm up but now are stuck again no matter how hard I hit it.

Now, before I continue and strip the heads (they should be allan bolt heads in my opinion), is it wise to use a little bit of heat on the casing the bolt is in to loosen up the lock tite? That way I will be able to get them out without stripping the heads/breaking the bolt.

The casing is made out of aluminum and I am aware it can take some heat, but not a constant heat.

Has anyone ever done this and if so, am I going about it the right way?

Appreciate the feedback guys, I've included pictures as well to help the description.



1999 Yamaha V-Star 650 Custom
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 06:32 PM
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Try heating the case and freezing the screw. You can freeze the screw by using a can of dustoff and turning upside down. Works great on removing the elbows of the AIS?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'll heat the case, but no offence Corsair. Would freezing the head of the bolt not make the metal more brittle and easier to snap? Just speaking from experience working at a steel pipe mill, when you heat the metal to a certain degree, cool it, heat it again, etc (to get specific properties) you 'quench and temper' the metal making it stronger.

In this situation I would only be heating the case and the bolt inside it, but freezing the bolt head. The can of aerosol would not be able to penetrate the bolt the full way down.

And please don't take this as a snappy smart ass comment haha. This is just a worry of mine since the case isn't cheap and I don't want to have to tap a bolt out. But if it so happens...

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 08:23 PM
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you have enough room there for vice grips
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-05-2015, 06:02 AM
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Jon I'm an aviation mechanic by trade and understand your concerns. You wouldn't be heating the case enough to quench it. The freezing wouldn't make the screw brittle either. One thing I've noticed is the bit you're using. I stopped using these sharp bits a long time ago since they don't fit properly in the head of the screw. Try finding one that is more rounded and has a smaller waist. You can also apply some valve grinding compound to the tip of the bit; this stuff gives the bit more bite. I'll post a pic of the bitmI'm talking about a little later today here.
Here's a bad pic of the bit I was refering to. You can get them at Napa or any other car place. Let me know if you want me to send you a few if you can't find them.
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Last edited by Corsair; 02-06-2015 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Added pic
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-05-2015, 03:57 PM
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Another trick to try, which I use on all tight bolts or screws, is try tightening it back in, then back out. Work it back and forth to loosen the locktite up in the threads. Always works for me unless the threads are boogered up. And also, I thought you should freeze both the screw and the case to break it loose, as that way both the hole shrinks and the screw shrinks. Or is it the heat that softens up the locktite? Not sure bout that. Also, +1 on the vise grips, may be helpful if you can get them on the head. Any way good luck with extracting those screw.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 06:21 PM
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Thumbs up

Corsair, A very interesting combination technique I hadn't heard of before. I will definitely keep it in mind for next time... Thanks! Wavelength.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2015, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Well...here's what went down.

Tried a little more with the impact but that didn't last long. Bought a can of keyboard cleaner and a small butane torch (a bit bigger than a lighter, but something you could almost solder with). Heated the crankcase bolt housing, heated the bolt head a little bit, let it cool. Heated the case only and then used the aerosol can on the bolt head. Went back and fourth a couple times (I was saying "Yes!" in my head) then went to remove it. Felt a little to easy and yup, broke off the head. Same happened to the other one, except I only used heat on it.

Now I know I have to tap it, which I have never done before. Going to look around and see if I know someone who knows someone. I am becoming quite a frequent visitor to my local bike shops.

In the pictures you can see the red factory lock rite they've used, and my frustration.




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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2015, 02:03 PM
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Man that really sucks. I feel your pain. Been there, done that. Maybe you could find a motorcycle salvage yard near you that you can, (hopefully), pick one up for reasonable price and avoid all the hassle. Unless you're in to that sort of thing. Good luck with your endeavor.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-13-2015, 03:00 PM
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Yeah.....been there too. Working on anything mechanical will certainly lead you into developing new skills you never thought you'd need. Most of those OEM screws are relatively soft and prone to break anyway.

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