Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Hot Springs, AR
The wire/diode/relay doesn't make sense, cause then it wouldn't be running at all then, right? Not to assume here, but you know when checking diodes you need a digital multimeter set to the diode function, measuring voltage drop going across the diode. You can't set the multimeter to continuity/ohms, it'll read nothing both ways. Well you may get a number, or 0/OL signifying polarity. If you do not have a diode function on a multimeter, you can use a battery to provide power. Setting the meter to ohms only tells you the polarity to find which side of the diode is the anode and cathode. All I get searching the part number is that its a relay assembly, pretty complex with 11 connections. So being a relay, certain connections won't be closed until power is applied. Of course, I haven't researched it like you, so what connection goes to what I don't know. But its working starting up/idling, I can only assume its working fine. But I don't know for sure.
And the advancing shouldn't be an issue. In fact, should be less advance under a load. That characteristic is usually problems with idling, yours is the other way around.
So lean issues, ignore the carb. Check for air leaks? As much as I'm assuming you've fiddled or removed the carbs, think there might be a tear in the intakes? I had a pretty small holes in my air intake you really couldn't see until you started to pry and bend it then they opened up. On my 06 650. Your 07 is 8'ish years old, how many miles? Those rubber boots don't last.
I seem to be cursed with small engines rubber intakes. ATVs, my last bike. Just something to check, think air leak, not fuel lean, but too much air. And or, air leaks past the carb (intake), therefore not pulling enough of a vacuum on the carb drawing enough fuel.
Just something to try.
EDIT: oh, possibly check the lines and on/off/res switch for gunk too.
.:'09 Vstar 950T:.
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Last edited by Mr Schaefer Pants; 04-07-2015 at 09:12 AM.