Front Cylinder Not Firing - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Front Cylinder Not Firing

Hello everyone, this is my first post to the forums and I am here as a last resort before taking my bike to the shop. Normally I have good luck because someone else has had my problem and I can dig up the answer. In this case I am at a loos and hoping someone can point me to something I have overlooked. I have limited knowledge in this area but am a do it your self kind of guy and have completed oil and filter changes, final drive fluid changes, valve adjustments and basic stuff like this.

I have a 2004 XVS1100C with 20k. I am the 3rd owner and ride regularly in the summer. I have had the bike for 3 years now and have not had any problems up until this point. When I purchased it from the last owner I was told it had cobra drag pipes, hypercharger, and the carb were jetted. The bike ran well the last two seasons with the exception of needing to leave the choke on longer than normal on cold start. The end of last riding season I ran the bike with the fuel valve shut off to drain the bowls. (Maybe this was a mistake) I also added stabil to the fuel before doing so hoping this would avoid any gumming up of the carbs. Normally I start throughout the winter but this year I did not. Once is started to warm up I tried starting and had a very hard time and finally when I did get it running it sounded funny. After a bit of searching around I found that the front cylinder was not firing at idle, but would fire when revving the engine. This is the point I decided to pull the carb off and clean it. I have never done this before so I did some reading on the process and took my time.

I removed the carbs soaked jets in seafoam, blew out with air compressor and put back together. At this point the bike seemed to run worse so I took it apart to make sure I put everything back in place correctly. Put it all back together and still had the same problem front cylinder not firing. After removing a third time I decided to check the float height by following the procedure that I found in the service manual. They were not the same measurement on either side and the springs did not seem very springy so I ordered a rebuild kit. The kit was really just a few seals and the float springs which I replaced and put at 14mm if I recall correctly. Put everything back together and it seemed a bit better. I took it for a ride and the bike was sputtering and popping during deceleration and under WOT. At this point I think to check the sync on the carbs so I bought a set of vacuum gauges to accomplish this. I can not get them to match up for the life of me. At this point I am very frustrated so I let the bike set for a couple days and when I come back I have no fire at all on the front cylinder, pipe is completely cold.

At this point I do some additional research to find out what the problem could be. Here are a few things I tested and replaced.
1. Spark to spark plug tested by arching to highway bars.
2. Resistance on plug boots, actually replaced to be sure.
3. New plugs to be sure this was not the issue.
4. Tested voltage and resistance to coil packs. These are the things that the spark plug wires connect to. I think they are called the coil packs.
5. Replaced worn battery
6. Tested fuel coming from both lines.
7. Fuel in both bowls of carbs.
8. Fresh Gas


At this point I can not determine if its the fuel/carbs, an electrical issue, or a compression issue. I would not assume not a fuel issue as one rear is working fine. I wouldn't think electrical because I have arc from plug. Compression seems to be unlikely because it was perfectly fine last riding season.

I plan to get a compression tester early next week to rule that out, but can anyone think of anything that I have missed that I can check?

I hope I have provided enough detail for some reasonable responses. If I have missed a key piece of info please let me know. Thanks for any help or suggestions any of you may have.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 10:24 PM
eGo
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Voltage Regulator/Rectifier.. Right under the battery.. My bike is also not running correctly, I just picked it up last Friday. If I go past about 1/4 throttle it bogs down and loses some power. So I did some searching for that and found another thread here and the poster did some of the same things you've already done, just to replace the $20 regulator and that solved the problem. His symptoms were bogging down and front cylinder not firing. I keep forgetting to check the temperature of the front pipe when it's idling, but can't hurt to replace the regulator since I already have it. That's where I'm starting. I plan on changing it in the morning. If it resolves the issue, I'll let you know. If that's not it, I'll take the battery to be tested and go from there.

But I'm pretty sure it's going to be one of those two things. Since you already replaced the battery, I'm betting on the regulator. I have a 93' Kawasaki Vulcan 500 and I had to replace the battery a few times. And when it's battery went bad, it acted exactly like my bike is right now. Except the head light was so dim it wasn't usable. This bike runs like the Vulcan did, but the headlight and the other lights stay bright, so that is why I'm thinking it's the regulator. Here's hoping

GL!

eGo
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting I have not come across that in my travels at this point. Is this something that I can test with a multimeter? I am going to pull the service manual again in the morning and see if I can find some info there.

Let me know if it fixes it for you. Good Luck!
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 10:42 PM
eGo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fozzybear2006 View Post
Interesting I have not come across that in my travels at this point. Is this something that I can test with a multimeter? I am going to pull the service manual again in the morning and see if I can find some info there.

Let me know if it fixes it for you. Good Luck!
Yes, you should be able to test the regulator and the procedure should be in the shop manual. Downside, you may have to remove the exhaust to get the cover off to test it.. That's the only part I'm NOT looking forward to in the morning. But, I hope to have it done in less than an hour as I'm just going to switch it out and hope for the best.. I will TRY to remember to take some pictures of the process.

Thanks!!

eGo
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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I just found this online and it may help you out tomorrow. I tested the voltage across the battery and it was within range. There are a few more steps that I can take, but would an stator, or Voltage regulator consistently cause the problem in one cylinder?

http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverB...hagre-syst.pdf
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 11:01 PM
eGo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fozzybear2006 View Post
I just found this online and it may help you out tomorrow. I tested the voltage across the battery and it was within range. There are a few more steps that I can take, but would an stator, or Voltage regulator consistently cause the problem in one cylinder?

http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverB...hagre-syst.pdf
I only say yes because of the issues another member had..

https://www.starbikeforums.com/forums...ead.php?t=5238

Page 10 Post #93.. Shows how they finally came across the problem and resolved it by replacing the voltage regulator.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-02-2015, 06:50 PM
eGo
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Good Afternoon Fozzy.. So, I spent a couple of hours this morning replacing the regulator. And it actually went pretty easy.. Save a few silly mistakes.. I will say, while I haven't been able to jump on it and go for a ride yet (waiting on my wife to get home and watch the kids for a few) it idles A LOT nicer and it sounds more beastly. I don't get any bogging when cranking on the throttle in neutral. So, here's what I did, hopefully it will save you some headache..

1.) Removed the battery cover.
2.) Inspected the regulator cover to see if there was a way to remove it without dropping the exhaust. Eureka! There's only one bolt holding it in and it was easy to remove with my exhaust, just pulled it up and out from behind after removing the bolt.
3.) 10mm Socket, remove the two bolts from the regulator.
4.) Disconnect regulator, remove felt washers/locate for reuse.
5.) Reconnect regulator, unknowingly blow main fuse.
6.) Attempt to start bike, No Power
7.) FREAK OUT!
8.) Realize you're an idiot and disconnect the negative battery cable.
9.) Remove seats
10.) Remove IC Cover over battery.
11.) Replace 30A fuse.
12.) Start Bike and notice how much better it sounds and starts.
13.) Replace IC Cover
14.) Replace Seats
15.) Replace Regulator bolts/washers.
16.) Replace Regulator cover.
17.) Replace Battery Cover.
18.) Start again, just to make sure you didn't mess something else up.. lol

So, sometimes I'm a dummy and get in a hurry.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 10:05 PM
eGo
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And we're back to square 1.. *sigh*.. So I'm going to do some more searching/research and see what I can find.. My next step is going to be to pull the plugs and see what they look like..

eGo
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 08:11 AM
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$100 says its fuel related. I was thinking that as I was reading even before you replaced the regulator. When you say the front cylinder isn't firing to me that means the plug itself isn't firing. Your case apparently is that the plug is actually firing but it has no fuel to burn. There is something clogged up in your carb. If your bowl is filling with fuel then you are getting fuel to the carb just not through the carb. Most likely its a jet or one of the tiny orifices in the carb body that are clogged.
I know it's too late now but I never run a fuel system dry for this particular reason. If you treat the fuel then store it, everything stays wet and full of fuel. If you run them dry they are just that...completely dry. All the cavities and jets are open for dust, dirt, spiders, corrosion, and anything else that decides to get in there.

There are others here with much more knowledge than me that will help you but I would suggest look into the carbs again. Especially the one for that cylinder.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 09:51 AM
eGo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Summer View Post
$100 says its fuel related. I was thinking that as I was reading even before you replaced the regulator. When you say the front cylinder isn't firing to me that means the plug itself isn't firing. Your case apparently is that the plug is actually firing but it has no fuel to burn. There is something clogged up in your carb. If your bowl is filling with fuel then you are getting fuel to the carb just not through the carb. Most likely its a jet or one of the tiny orifices in the carb body that are clogged.
I know it's too late now but I never run a fuel system dry for this particular reason. If you treat the fuel then store it, everything stays wet and full of fuel. If you run them dry they are just that...completely dry. All the cavities and jets are open for dust, dirt, spiders, corrosion, and anything else that decides to get in there.

There are others here with much more knowledge than me that will help you but I would suggest look into the carbs again. Especially the one for that cylinder.
Summer, I appreciate your input and will take it into account. I plan on pulling the carbs and cleaning/rebuilding them when the gaskets/valve/jets come in. Going to post another question about that and stop high jacking Fozzy's thread. lol
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