Dead Battery AGAIN! H8 the clicking noise - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Dead Battery AGAIN! H8 the clicking noise

2002 Yamaha xvs1100 w/ 21,000 miles. I commute 40miles a day and has served me well for up to 19,000 miles. After that I've been having charging problems. Bike starts in the morning and 20 miles later battery is dead. Not enough juice to fire her up 8hrs later. Found it was a bad regulator rectifier. replaced it and all good for the pass few months. Same symptoms is back again and left me stranded at work. Got a jump start and rode the bike home. Didnt shut it off and metered the battery and got 10v idling @ around 1200rpm. Let bike sit a few hours and not enough juice to start bike so charged battery to 13+v and bike started right up. Whipped out the multimeter and here's what I get.
Battery holds charge @ 12.7v cold (Checked first thing in the morning)
Bike starts right up and meters at 13.8v at idle and rises to 14.6v when idle is raised to 5000rpm.
Stator = 23V/AC @ approx 1000rpm idle and voltage increases up to 60VAC when idle raised to 5000+rpm when measured all three wires from stator.
Regulator / Rectifier
Test A) Pos multimeter lead to pos wire on r/r + neg multimeter lead to all three white r/r wires = all 0 reading on multimeter.
Test B) Pos m/m lead to neg on r/r + neg mm lead to all 3 white wires = .336, .334, .336
Test C) Neg multimeter lead to pos wire on r/r + Pos multimeter lead to all three white r/r wires = all 0 reading on multimeter.
Test D) Neg multimeter lead to Neg wire on r/r + Pos multimeter lead to all three white r/r wires = all 0 reading on multimeter.

Please analyze and let me know if I should use this bike as a boat anchor. Also, be advised that new replacement r/r was a cheapo from China and had to splice original harness I know but I plan on getting a new harness and also all factory or better parts if anyone can recommend a reliable source for Quality electronics. So, please analyze and let me know what yall think.
Thanks!!!!!!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:02 PM
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According to the shop manual, voltage should be 12.8 idle, 14.6 at 3000 RPM. But those Chinese versions tend to fluctuate voltage quite a bit. I'm not sure how they can keep selling so many of them, they are total junk.

I'd say you most likely need a new reg/rec.....don't cheap out on these. I've seen those cheapies take out every electrical component on the bike as they spike and fry. Go directly to Yamaha and buy it. Most go to an 05 Road Star reg/rec. It's usually well over $100 but you'll never replace one again and it has a bit higher output.

You may need a new battery as well...... what is the battery voltage when you try to start?

...and yes use it as a boat anchor.....I'll give you $100 for it as it sits!....lol

Sick Mick* 2006 V Star 1100 Custom

--- Striping, lettering and paint by Sick Mick 6* Tree - 2" extended forks 21" front wheel - HK Sideburners - Progressive rear shock Pods Sick Mick solenoid delete - Spring seat - and other stuff

Last edited by Sick Mick; 03-02-2016 at 10:11 PM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply! I figured r/r is shot but readings are very confusing to me. Battery seems fine as it metered at 10-11+v when I bump the starter button. Stator seems fine to you? I don't want to replace the stator if I don't have to, but I also don't want to fry the quality r/r that I'm going to get. 05 Roadstar r/r plug and play?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MyV88urV6 View Post
2002 Yamaha xvs1100 w/ 21,000 miles. I commute 40miles a day and has served me well for up to 19,000 miles. After that I've been having charging problems. Bike starts in the morning and 20 miles later battery is dead. Not enough juice to fire her up 8hrs later. Found it was a bad regulator rectifier. replaced it and all good for the pass few months. Same symptoms is back again and left me stranded at work. Got a jump start and rode the bike home. Didnt shut it off and metered the battery and got 10v idling @ around 1200rpm. Let bike sit a few hours and not enough juice to start bike so charged battery to 13+v and bike started right up. Whipped out the multimeter and here's what I get.
Battery holds charge @ 12.7v cold (Checked first thing in the morning)
Bike starts right up and meters at 13.8v at idle and rises to 14.6v when idle is raised to 5000rpm.
Stator = 23V/AC @ approx 1000rpm idle and voltage increases up to 60VAC when idle raised to 5000+rpm when measured all three wires from stator.
Regulator / Rectifier
Test A) Pos multimeter lead to pos wire on r/r + neg multimeter lead to all three white r/r wires = all 0 reading on multimeter.
Test B) Pos m/m lead to neg on r/r + neg mm lead to all 3 white wires = .336, .334, .336
Test C) Neg multimeter lead to pos wire on r/r + Pos multimeter lead to all three white r/r wires = all 0 reading on multimeter.
Test D) Neg multimeter lead to Neg wire on r/r + Pos multimeter lead to all three white r/r wires = all 0 reading on multimeter.

Please analyze and let me know if I should use this bike as a boat anchor. Also, be advised that new replacement r/r was a cheapo from China and had to splice original harness I know but I plan on getting a new harness and also all factory or better parts if anyone can recommend a reliable source for Quality electronics. So, please analyze and let me know what yall think.
Thanks!!!!!!
test C say's there's a bad diode you can get good used oem regulators on the cheap on ebay. i bought a just in case one for 10 bucks that stays in my saddle bag.

dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks pauli! So, stator reading looks good, but definitely a bad r/r. That's great, thanks again! I'll go ahead and place my order for a new r/r and also get a spare for just in case.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Here's an update to my electrical charging system problems: I bought a new Stator and a Mosfet regulator rectifier. Istalled both and voltage readings were on spec and thought I cured the problem...NOT! Took the bike 20 miles to work at 5am and 60deg, parked it and checked the voltage reading while still idling and got 12.5v. raised idle to approx 5000rpm and got 13.2v. not good. Metered battery 8hrs later and it read 12.4v, enough to start the bike up and get me home. Did the same test 20miles later @ 2pm and in 80deg weather and got 10.5v idle and battery doesnt have enough juice to fire back up. Frustrated I waited 2 days to mess with the bike. Did the reading while bike is cold and readings are still low at only 13.8v and never hits 14v while at idle or up to 5000rpms. Frustrated and ready to part this bike out, I kindly asked her why are you doing this all of a sudden? She spoke to me and said check all your wiring connections and while idling shut off the kill switch to the headlights and see if voltage reading changes. Sure enough it did and went back to normal readings. 13.99v-14.06 when idle and 14.11v @ 5000rpm. Original owner installed a kill switch on the headlight bucket for unknown reasons and it never bothered me and I have never used it. Well, pulled the headlight bucket and saw that the connections to the kill switch was a little corroded. Removed the kill switch and soldered the green wires together, fired the bike up and put the multimeter to the battery and got perfect voltage reading at idle and approx 5000rpm. I'm convinced that the kill switch was the cause of all my headaches and charging system problems. I've replaced 1 stator which had good readings and 2 regulator rectifiers which were both confirmed bad. All because of a stupid headlight kill switch that was added for unknown reasons. Took the bike for a 50+mile continuous ride and readings are still in the low 14v at idle. Amazing how something as small as a kill switch can cause so much problems. I also removed the fuse to the carb heater since I'm in a climate the never gets below 60deg. and also heat wrapped the exhaust pipe where the r/r is located. Drilled holes in the r/r cover to get more air flow and changed engine oil and filter. I love this bike and hope it'll never give me anymore problems.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 11:16 PM
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 03:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyV88urV6 View Post
Here's an update to my electrical charging system problems: I bought a new Stator and a Mosfet regulator rectifier. Istalled both and voltage readings were on spec and thought I cured the problem...NOT! Took the bike 20 miles to work at 5am and 60deg, parked it and checked the voltage reading while still idling and got 12.5v. raised idle to approx 5000rpm and got 13.2v. not good. Metered battery 8hrs later and it read 12.4v, enough to start the bike up and get me home. Did the same test 20miles later @ 2pm and in 80deg weather and got 10.5v idle and battery doesnt have enough juice to fire back up. Frustrated I waited 2 days to mess with the bike. Did the reading while bike is cold and readings are still low at only 13.8v and never hits 14v while at idle or up to 5000rpms. Frustrated and ready to part this bike out, I kindly asked her why are you doing this all of a sudden? She spoke to me and said check all your wiring connections and while idling shut off the kill switch to the headlights and see if voltage reading changes. Sure enough it did and went back to normal readings. 13.99v-14.06 when idle and 14.11v @ 5000rpm. Original owner installed a kill switch on the headlight bucket for unknown reasons and it never bothered me and I have never used it. Well, pulled the headlight bucket and saw that the connections to the kill switch was a little corroded. Removed the kill switch and soldered the green wires together, fired the bike up and put the multimeter to the battery and got perfect voltage reading at idle and approx 5000rpm. I'm convinced that the kill switch was the cause of all my headaches and charging system problems. I've replaced 1 stator which had good readings and 2 regulator rectifiers which were both confirmed bad. All because of a stupid headlight kill switch that was added for unknown reasons. Took the bike for a 50+mile continuous ride and readings are still in the low 14v at idle. Amazing how something as small as a kill switch can cause so much problems. I also removed the fuse to the carb heater since I'm in a climate the never gets below 60deg. and also heat wrapped the exhaust pipe where the r/r is located. Drilled holes in the r/r cover to get more air flow and changed engine oil and filter. I love this bike and hope it'll never give me anymore problems.
whoever wired the switch was foolish, any kill switch should be connected to negative side of a circuit whenever possible to avoid that very problem. i'm glad you found the problem, i'll bet the switch wasn't even fused, which could have started a fire if that switch deteriorated further. if it was on the negative side it wouldn't even need a fuse. the switch ether turned in a resistor internally or it shorted to ground to cause that problem, if it was a metal switch most likely shorted to ground just not fully. i never like my passing lamp switch because of the metal body even though it uses insulating washers

dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers

Last edited by pauli466; 03-23-2016 at 03:53 AM.
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