650 Vstar Reassembling the rear wheel and final drive. - Star Motorcycle Forums: Star Raider, V-Max, V-Star, Road-Star Forum
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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650 Vstar Reassembling the rear wheel and final drive.

So I took my rear off wheel to change the tire and lube the splines and I',m at a loss figuring out the torque specs and assembly procedure. The manual says torque the axle than the 4 bolts that hold the final drive to the swingarm. The service manual says to do the opposite.

Sooooo, My questions are this
Which procedure do I follow.
What are the torque specs for the final drive on swingarm? The same manual says 70ft, 43ft, and 67ft.
What are the torque specs for the bell housing (four bolts on the final drive shaft, I took it apart to lube the joining collar)
What are the torque specs for the axle?

Thanks in advance.

BTW The splines looked fantastic but they were lubed with a white grease and not the M77 honda moly paste.

The four bolts in question are the second and third pics of this ventures page:
http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Librar...=001006&id=383
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Last edited by zipster223; 02-14-2017 at 10:43 PM.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 09:44 PM
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what manual are you reading that has multiple choice torque specs for the final drive?

I think the Vstar 650 shop manual is available online (somehow its gone public domain?). I had a copy on a CD and when i could not find it I looked online and it was right there.

My copy of the Vstar_650_service_manual says:

Rear wheel axle nut: 70.2 ft-lbs

In the service manual you have to look at the exploded drawings of the parts, and use the same names for the bolt or nut from the drawings to look up the value in the torque table.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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The service manual is confusing as it lists different specs with same names. I figured someone on this forum has removed the back wheel at one point in time. Maybe not.
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 10:12 AM
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Looked at the service manual and see there are 4 splines on the drive shaft that need to be lubed.

Sorry I cant be more help. If there is any doubt in the service manual I always go by the torque table. You are wise to be careful torquing into aluminum housings. In general if you snug the bolt or nut up, and give it a bit more till it feels like its loaded up, you will be close to the torque spec. If there is any doubt go with the lower torque value and then see how it feels.

I know this sounds sketchy, developing a feel for the hardware is something that takes a bit of experience, and you kinda have to strip a few threads till you learn when you have gone too far.
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Last edited by KCW; 02-20-2017 at 07:35 PM.
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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KCW Thanks for looking into this for me.

I think I got it. In my illustration below (pardon my lack of skills) I have red dots on the parts in question. For part 41(nut) I have 30ftlbs for the others that go through the swingarm I have 50ftlbs. Just seems like a little much into aluminum. I may try just snugging them down and see where my torque wrench clicks.


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Last edited by zipster223; 02-19-2017 at 11:19 AM.
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 11:16 AM
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I usually just leave the torque wrench in my toolbox to be used in critical situations where it matters, like interanl engine and transmission components. I've had the rear wheel off and back on my 1100 over 100 tiumes in the 10 years I've owned it....if not more. Never used a torque wrench on any of the bolts in that area and have never had an issue .....and have almost 50,000 miles on it.

The rule of thumb is 0-30 ft lbs = use 1/4" drive socket to tighten. 30-60 ft lbs is pretty tight use 3/8" drive. 60 and above use 1/2" drive. The type of material is also critical, but the torque spec usually reflects that. You could also be off 20-30% and be OK in most situations. I could bet that if you had 2 torque wrenches there would be a minimum of 10% difference in values between the 2. Most I've seen can vary up to 30%..... especially a wrench that cost less then $250-$300. Also, torque can change as the bolts get tightened and loosened several times.

Just get it close and go ride.....you need to recheck everything after a few hundred miles anyway.

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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Success!

Torqued the first housing cover nut to 30ftlbs. Did the second one by feel and tested it with my snap-on torque wrench and it was pretty close. Had someone tighten the axle nut while I pushed for dear life on the wheel to make sure it was going to stay and the axle was not going to walk. Had 4mm on the 9 o clock position and 2mm on the 3 o clock. Not good enough so I took the wheel off and re tightened the housing cover while holding it out out a little further away from the bike. (hard to explain but it has a slight movement when not locked down) BINGO even gap all around.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zipster223 View Post
So I took my rear off wheel to change the tire and lube the splines and I',m at a loss figuring out the torque specs and assembly procedure. The manual says torque the axle than the 4 bolts that hold the final drive to the swingarm. The service manual says to do the opposite.

Sooooo, My questions are this
Which procedure do I follow.
What are the torque specs for the final drive on swingarm? The same manual says 70ft, 43ft, and 67ft.
What are the torque specs for the bell housing (four bolts on the final drive shaft, I took it apart to lube the joining collar)
What are the torque specs for the axle?

Thanks in advance.

BTW The splines looked fantastic but they were lubed with a white grease and not the M77 honda moly paste.

The four bolts in question are the second and third pics of this ventures page:
The Venturers - Yamaha Venture Technical Support Library
the M77 honda stuff isn't even close to the honda moly 60 paste that isn't made anymore, the 60 paste was 60% moly the M77 paste is only 15% moly so most people are switching to loctite moly paste with 65% moly what is more important than torque secs and the torquing sequence is getting the gap even between the drive and the wheel hub, i leave the axle for last so i can tap the wheel to get the gap even, the driveshaft housing is fixed to the frame, the wheel will move to change the gap. i'v seen some with shims between the housing and frame, i guess the housings aren't all perfectly made

dumb bikers don't get to be old bikers

Last edited by pauli466; 02-20-2017 at 06:13 PM.
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 08:00 PM
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I'm with you......I went with the Loctite stuff when my Moly 60 ran out.

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-11-2018, 05:33 PM
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I took my final drive apart (2004 Classic) to lube the splines. They all looked good, lubed em up, but cant seem to get the gap right. I am encouraged to read the idea of tapping the wheel while tightening to adjust the gap. I dont really want to use shims if I can avoid it. Ive had the assemby off the bike to change the tore and it went back on fine that time.

Its making a groaning sound when I rotate the wheel. Im assuming that is the splines out of alignment (ie the gap is uneven). Ill try the wheel tap while tightening.

I am measuring the gap with a digital caliper. What sort of tolerance should the gap be within?

Thanks,

Joshua


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