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I can tell you that my bike runs like garbage if I try to run it with the carb intake completely open. It'll be trying to die, but if I take my hand and cover the venturi, it'll start running better.

Does it run OK at idle and just run bad with throttle? How do the needles and the vacuum slides look? If you lift the slide with the engine off can you hear that it's getting good vacuum?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey pangea33, I have not try it yet with the intake all the way back together. I thought of it, but I would never imaging it would run that bad without it. I am going to give it a try.

It runs fine on idle and the warmer it gets the better. If you star revving it slowly it gets pretty high but it finally gets to the point where it wants to die.

I can feel some vacuum in the slides, but I can't tell you if they are right or not. No way to compare with another carb. I will pay more attention tomorrow when I get to it before I put the intake back together.

Thank you!:)
 

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The intake tract on these bikes is very touchy due mostly to the EPA's
restrictions imposed on the manufacturer to reduce emissions.

So they are set up to run very lean. So removing the air box or tampering with the setup will lead to super lean conditions and a horrible running if not impossible to ride bike.

Almost ANY modification to the intake or exhaust will require rejetting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
We I take my hat and bow to you my friends.
Your wisdom is priceless.
After putting all the intake back together it runs like a champ.
Thank you very much to all!!!
I'll send pictures once I'm done detailing it
 

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Some mods can be performed with out rejetting. You can drill out the stock mufflers for some sound increase. However very little if any performance gains come from this.

After market slip on style exhaust can provide small increases in performance and a much better growl. Depending on mfg some do not require rejetting. So it becomes and install and ride type mod.

jake :) :):rolleyes:
 
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