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Thanks for the suggestion subbiker. Mine makes the full sweep and then the yellow light flashes. Do you know if the sending unit is easy to replace?


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Discussion Starter #22
Fro
Thanks for the suggestion subbiker. Mine makes the full sweep and then the yellow light flashes. Do you know if the sending unit is easy to replace?


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Looks easy enough. You take tank off and the sending unit is on the bottom.
Take out 4 screws and remove it.
When you replace, make sure you use the fiber washers on the screws so it does not leak.
From what I understand is the ethanol in the gas eats the sensor up. Happened to one of my cars too.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok. The plugs and AIS removal was a success!
The old plugs looked like they were burning rich and the electrodes were worn.
Installed the iridium plugs.
Used a dab of antisieze on the threads, torqued to 13 ft lbs and put a dab of dielectric grease on the plug tips.
Cleaned and polished up the valve covers while I had the tank off.
Looks like the previous owner did the budget bypass on the AIS.
Removed gobs of hoses, brackets and junk!
The front cylinder will get a lot more air flow now.
91483

I tossed in 4 oz of berrymans B12 chemtool in the tank before I did the work and the gas gauge is working now.
Engine started right up and ran pretty good. Only ran for a minute to check oil level.
Can't take it for a cruise yet because of all the snow. If we can get a few days of sunshine in a row, the roads should be dry enough to take a test cruise .
Guess I can start cleaning and polishing it up now! :)
 

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Sounds like a very successful day. Pat yourself on the back. We need pictures of the polished up bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Sounds like a very successful day. Pat yourself on the back. We need pictures of the polished up bike.
It was pretty easy to do the work. Took my time.
I will post some pics when I get it polished up.
I will post them in the readers rides section.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
There was a couple casualties in the process I forgot to mention.
I did break the little tab on the cover for the fuel filter and fuel pump by accident removing it. Still is attached by the 2 screws on the bottom though.
When I opened the pack for the block off plates, the rubber plug that caps the vacuum port flipped out, landed on the ground and my cat took off with it.
He chewed holes in it before I could catch him.
I got a cap assortment when I went and picked up my plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Snow melted off roads and finally took the bike for it's maiden voyage.
Had to run the choke half way out for a couple of minutes while warming up. These are cold blooded pigs obviously.
It coughed and sputtered when I gave it throttle when I was going 20 in 1st gear with choke off when I rolled on the throttle.
I took it easy for a little while and seemed to smooth out and more responsive after about 30 minutes.
(I think this bike has been sitting for 6 years because I found the old plate in the bag and the last year registered was 2013)
Topped off the tank at the ethanol free station and went for an hour long ride.
As I left the station, of course a sheriff followed me for a bit and then along side me! It was all good, no problems.

Could not get out of second gear in town because it's 35 mph everywhere.
Jumped on the highway where it was 80 mph and that seemed to wake it up and blow the cobwebs out.

Did not even get into 5th gear until 75.
Seat and riding position is very comfortable.
Windshield was nice and no buffeting like my klr on the highway.
Nice balance and plush ride like a Cadillac.
Idling was smooth after I got off highway and throttle was much more responsive.
I suppose it possibly had some gum or varnish in jets.

This'll bike is perfect for what I wanted it for. Long distance rides.
Now I want more Sunshine!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
How long is it going to take for the smile to come off of your face? Good thing it is too cold for bugs right now.
Lol. Getting out of the driveway was the most treacherous part of the ride. Still has some patches of ice in the shady areas but wasn't a problem though.
Yes, if it is a clear day and no snow in forecast, I will be back out on the road!
 

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One thing I don't recall being mentioned was your oil change. How did you do that? How much?

Also, on most of these R*s, you only need to pull out the enricher (choke) when you first start it up, then by the time you get a block or two down the road you should be able to push it in all the way. You're just running rich if you leave it on longer than that. Then once warmed up at all, you shouldn't need it again that day.
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Discussion Starter #36
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One thing I don't recall being mentioned was your oil change. How did you do that? How much?

Also, on most of these R*s, you only need to pull out the enricher (choke) when you first start it up, then by the time you get a block or two down the road you should be able to push it in all the way. You're just running rich if you leave it on longer than that. Then once warmed up at all, you shouldn't need it again that day.
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I drained the oil by removing both drain plugs and removing oil filter.
I put down a piece of cardboard and layed on the ground.
Walmart now sells a full synthetic motorcycle oil that is safe for wet clutches and is cheaper than Mobil 1. I am a big synthetic fanboy especially for air cooled engines.
So filter and 4 quarts of 10/40 oil is about 50 bucks if you don't botch the job like I did.
I also changed the transfer case fluid.
I used Valvoline 75/140 gl4/gl5 full synthetic for that. 12 bucks for a bottle.

When I filled the oil tank I screwed up.
You are supposed to dump 2 quarts in, start it and then add 2 more.
I added too much and did not run it long enough and over filled the tank and it burped out all over.
I cleaned up that mess and let it sit overnight.
The next morning, there was about a quart and a half under the bike because the mobile 1 oil filter did not seat because I could not get it tight enough I guess.
It was basically a car filter so I was pissed and got a k&n from Napa auto.
I had to add almost 2 more quarts to get it up to level.
Now it is up to level and not leaking nothing!

Yeah it's been super cold up here.
I usually full choke when I first start then once it's running, I close it to half. I let it run for a minute or so giving it slight throttle now and then.
I will ride off with the choke in the half way position then by the time I get out of the neighborhood, I shut it off completely.
I had a 650 and had to run and warm that up the same way.
Thanks for the comments!
 

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I kind of have to laugh when you mention the oil burping. We've all learned you don't overfill and you don't start the engine unless the fill plug is screwed on!!! Just to recap, if all oil is drained, add 2 quarts, plug screwed on, run engine ten seconds, turn off. Then add 2 more quarts, then fill plug screwed on and that's it. Don't bother to check level as it will never be the same. Nor should you ever have to add oil between changes unless you have a leak. Also, if you don't change filter, then only put in 3 3/4 quarts.

Unless you've re-routed the crankcase vent on the back of the rear jug to either under the seat or down to the ground, then you may get some blowby through the vent hose to the back of the air cleaner. This will hasten the oiliness of the air cleaner.
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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
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I kind of have to laugh when you mention the oil burping. We've all learned you don't overfill and you don't start the engine unless the fill plug is screwed on!!! Just to recap, if all oil is drained, add 2 quarts, plug screwed on, run engine ten seconds, turn off. Then add 2 more quarts, then fill plug screwed on and that's it. Don't bother to check level as it will never be the same. Nor should you ever have to add oil between changes unless you have a leak. Also, if you don't change filter, then only put in 3 3/4 quarts.

Unless you've re-routed the crankcase vent on the back of the rear jug to either under the seat or down to the ground, then you may get some blowby through the vent hose to the back of the air cleaner. This will hasten the oiliness of the air cleaner.
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My crank case hose is still attached to the air box. I have one of those aftermarket k&n filters that go around the outside edge of the box.
Not a fan of having oil misting inside the carb. Should mount a catch can on there somewhere!
 

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My crank case hose is still attached to the air box. I have one of those aftermarket k&n filters that go around the outside edge of the box.
Not a fan of having oil misting inside the carb. Should mount a catch can on there somewhere!
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So what many of us do is run the hose uphill under the seat to the front area (still under the seat) and put on a generic auto breather filter that fits whatever hose we're using. Or some will run the hose down towards the ground and leave it open or off the the side a bit and put on a small chrome filter.

Then block off the opening for the hose on the back of the air filter.

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Discussion Starter #40
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So what many of us do is run the hose uphill under the seat to the front area (still under the seat) and put on a generic auto breather filter that fits whatever hose we're using. Or some will run the hose down towards the ground and leave it open or off the the side a bit and put on a small chrome filter.

Then block off the opening for the hose on the back of the air filter.

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That's easy enough. Not big on having oil mist being sucked in the intake and gunking up valves, tops of pistons and plugs.
Have any links to these breather filters you speak of?
Thanks for the tips.
 
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