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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I performed the LED conversion on my RSTD's headlight and passing lights (see below) and would like to upgrade my oem front turn signals over to LED switchbacks (white light running; amber light turning). I made the incorrect assumption that the front signal bulbs were standard 1157 with two contact points and two offsetting seating "pins" on the bulb base, and the conversion would be plug and play. But upon removing the stock amber bulbs learned that they have THREE PINS that seat them properly in the socket. Unfortunately, the LED replacemtns I ordered exhibited the standard 1157 base details described above. In ther past, I've ground off extra, "unwanted" mounting pins that prevented the bulb's installation. But in this case I examined the position of the pins relative to the contact points and realized the contact points of the bulb will not align correctly with the contacts in the socket, once seated, regardless of which two pins I'd grind off. I viewed an LED signal conversion vid on YouTube, (
) and in it, the guy simply inserted the 1157 LED bulb equivilents he ordered online into the socket (at 3:11 into the vid) and presto, they inserted without issue and worked perfectly when he activated his turn signals. He made no mention of modifying the bases of the LEDs he installed. Am I missing something? Can anyone shine some light (no pun intended) on this mystery or have some techniques they've applied in converting their RSTD front signals to LED switchbacks? (BTW - I know I'll be required to install a proper flasher relay to avoid hyper flashing if I am ever able to complete the conversion). Thanks in advance for any and all input! - Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey all, I performed the LED conversion on my RSTD's headlight and passing lights (see below) and would like to upgrade my oem front turn signals over to LED switchbacks (white light running; amber light turning). I made the incorrect assumption that the front signal bulbs were standard 1157 with two contact points and two offsetting seating "pins" on the bulb base, and the conversion would be plug and play. But upon removing the stock amber bulbs learned that they have THREE PINS that seat them properly in the socket. Unfortunately, the LED replacements I ordered exhibited the standard 1157 base details described above. In ther past, I've filed off extra, "unwanted" mounting pins that prevented the bulb's installation. But in this case, I examined the position of the pins relative to the contact points and realized the contact points of the bulb will not align correctly with the contacts in the socket, once seated, regardless of which pin I file off. I viewed an LED signal conversion vid on YouTube,
and in it, the guy simply inserted the 1157 LED bulb he ordered online into the socket (at 3:11 into the vid) and presto, they inserted without issue and worked perfectly when he activated his turn signals. He made no mention of modifying the bases of the LEDs he installed. Am I missing something? Can anyone shine some light (no pun intended) on this mystery or have some techniques they've applied in converting their RSTD front signals to LED switchbacks? (BTW - I know I'll be required to install a proper flasher relay to avoid hyper flashing, if I am ever able to complete the conversion). Thanks in advance for any and all input! - Don
UPDATE - I may have figured this one out. Upon further examination of the stock bulb, I noticed that one of the seating pins DOES match the location of one of the pins on the LED "bulb." I'll file off the other pin on the LED and see if that does the trick. If successful, I'll post pics here.
 

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UPDATE - I may have figured this one out. Upon further examination of the stock bulb, I noticed that one of the seating pins DOES match the location of one of the pins on the LED "bulb." I'll file off the other pin on the LED and see if that does the trick. If successful, I'll post pics here.
Yes, you can file off the pin closest to the base and it will fit. Did this on my Road Star. The rubber mount for the socket helps hold the bulb securely in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Brad. You are absolutely correct! Even though the rubber mount is tight around the socket, after filing the pin off one of the LEDs, the bulb would shift down in the socket just enough to lose contact in one of the signal housings on my RSTD. One bump on the road, and I"m sure I'd lose my signal light. BUT on the opposite signal, the bulb's remaining pin fully engaged into the socket slot and is locked in properly. I may have been too aggressive in my filing of the one bulb, so I've orderd a new set of the LEDs and will go a little more lightly on my filing this time. ;-) I really do like the swithback effect achieved. Worth the small amount of trouble I encountered. I'll post pics once completed. Thanks again for your input.
 

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Thanks Brad. You are absolutely correct! Even though the rubber mount is tight around the socket, after filing the pin off one of the LEDs, the bulb would shift down in the socket just enough to lose contact in one of the signal housings on my RSTD. One bump on the road, and I"m sure I'd lose my signal light. BUT on the opposite signal, the bulb's remaining pin fully engaged into the socket slot and is locked in properly. I may have been too aggressive in my filing of the one bulb, so I've orderd a new set of the LEDs and will go a little more lightly on my filing this time. ;-) I really do like the swithback effect achieved. Worth the small amount of trouble I encountered. I'll post pics once completed. Thanks again for your input.
On my '08 Road Star I filed the pin off smooth. You might be able to take the two small screws that hold the little bracket that keeps the socket in place out. Gently tug and see if there is enough free play in the wires to get something on the socket and gently elongate the socket a bit keeping the bulb pushed against the side with the remaining tab. Not a great explanation but hopefully you get the gist of what I'm saying
 

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Maybe take a pair of needle nose pliers and see if you can roll the socket in just slightly to give it added push to the remaining pin side. Here is a pic I took when making a light mod to my bike. I put arrows where I'm thinking. Double check but I believe on the 1157 bulbs the pins are 90 degrees from the contacts. That little tab bracket would be the forward facing part of the socket. So it shouldn't take much to access that front edge.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I like this suggestion. It might achieve the two simple goals of 1) ensuring that the contact points are properly aligned, and 2) securing the bulb base firmly in the socket. Thanks Brad. I'll keep you posted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SUCCESS BRAD! In altering the bulb socket, I was able to secure the bulb, and she's good to go. See the results in pics below. THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO PROVIDE THE OUTSTANDING ADVICE AND TIPS. Ride safe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Image on left: LED headlight and passing lights with halos and switchback LED signals illuminated.
Image on right: Turn signal activated - white light in LED bulb stops; amber light flashes, thnaks to $12.99 LEDS on Amazon and Brad's helpful tips!
 

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Glad to see that it worked for you. I had those in my Road Star and really like them. I ran into an issue (that I haven't taken the time to resolve) so currently running amber turns again. I did some mods that may have contributed to the issue but it's a really long story so I need to create a new post about it for suggestions. :cool:

But I have a second Road Star and I plan to order some more of those switchbacks to install on it this winter. I'm currently resurrecting it from it's long hiatus of sitting/neglect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Glad to see that it worked for you. I had those in my Road Star and really like them. I ran into an issue (that I haven't taken the time to resolve) so currently running amber turns again. I did some mods that may have contributed to the issue but it's a really long story so I need to create a new post about it for suggestions. :cool:

But I have a second Road Star and I plan to order some more of those switchbacks to install on it this winter. I'm currently resurrecting it from it's long hiatus of sitting/neglect.
Thanks Brad and good luck in bringing your other Roady back to life!
 

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Hey all, I performed the LED conversion on my RSTD's headlight and passing lights (see below) and would like to upgrade my oem front turn signals over to LED switchbacks (white light running; amber light turning). I made the incorrect assumption that the front signal bulbs were standard 1157 with two contact points and two offsetting seating "pins" on the bulb base, and the conversion would be plug and play. But upon removing the stock amber bulbs learned that they have THREE PINS that seat them properly in the socket. Unfortunately, the LED replacemtns I ordered exhibited the standard 1157 base details described above. In ther past, I've ground off extra, "unwanted" mounting pins that prevented the bulb's installation. But in this case I examined the position of the pins relative to the contact points and realized the contact points of the bulb will not align correctly with the contacts in the socket, once seated, regardless of which two pins I'd grind off. I viewed an LED signal conversion vid on YouTube, (
) and in it, the guy simply inserted the 1157 LED bulb equivilents he ordered online into the socket (at 3:11 into the vid) and presto, they inserted without issue and worked perfectly when he activated his turn signals. He made no mention of modifying the bases of the LEDs he installed. Am I missing something? Can anyone shine some light (no pun intended) on this mystery or have some techniques they've applied in converting their RSTD front signals to LED switchbacks? (BTW - I know I'll be required to install a proper flasher relay to avoid hyper flashing if I am ever able to complete the conversion). Thanks in advance for any and all input! - Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks. The lightbar was on the bike when I purchased it. I was under the impression it was a Yamaha oem option, but could be mistaken. During install of the LEDs, I did not see any manufacturer's markings or labels inside the 4.5" light housings or the bar itself. Sorrry about that. Here's the link to the LED upgrade set-up I purcahsed. I opted for the lighter background and the halo option in the main, bright and running lights: Amazon.com: 7 inch LED Headlight Fog Passing Lights DOT Kit Mounting Ring Motorcycle for Harley Davidson Touring Road King Ultra Classic Electra Street Glide Tri Cvo Heritage Fatboy Softail Slim Deluxe Black : Automotive There are a ton of options online that provide similar set ups - some under 50 bucks, and some (like Daymakers) that are far more costly. And of course if you forego the lightbar, your cost will be less to purchase a LED upgrade for a single, 7" headlight unit. REMINDER - if you do end up installing a lightbar with LED running lights and you change out your turn signals that are located below them (mine are flashbacks), you'll be required to install a flasher relay (easily tucks inside the right side cover, (by the oem DENSO relay box) to prevent the signals from hyper flashing. Good luck!
 

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What lightbar and lights is that? ... Im tryin to figure put a decent lightbar with brighter led lights onto mine too. Do you have a link? Thanks. Looks nice
It's an OEM accessory but not a factory installed option. I put them on my 2006 RSTD but don't believe they make it any longer. You may need to look for wrecked bikes to find one nowadays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks @JC for the clarification regarding the origin of manufacture for the light bar. One addtional point I'll make about the lightbar - My power switch (toggle-style) casing, located on lthe left, chrome, lightabr bucket, slightly interfered with the back (plastic) housing of the new led casing when attempting the install. I perfomed a slight "relocation" of the switch that provided just enough clearance to seat the new led light. I suppose another approach would have been to shave the led housing, but I wasn't sure if I'd cut into and possibly damage a critical component on the inside of the new led housing. In the end - it all worked out.
 
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