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About 2 weeks a go I about lost it due to a loos rear axle, (my daily insp reviled nothing amiss), I did get some smoking comming from the rear end, I noticed oil or greas on the inside of the "drive sprocket" of the rear wheel.
All of this said my question is what type of lub is in the rear hub? and are the outer bearings sealed bearings? I know there is an outer wheel seal on each side. Sense the discovery I have made the proper adjustements. Still a bit Leary of riding it before a proper inspection from a pro.:confused:
 

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Just looked in my manual and it says lithium soap based grease for the oil seals and axle. It does not say anything about lube for the bearings or if they are sealed. I would not see an issue with putting a little grease into the bearings. There is not mention of lubing anything for the drive sprocket.
 

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TDWay, the cush drive bearing is shot, if you have warranty than take the bike to the dealer, do not ride it as the wheel can lock up.
Yamaha has replaced several of them under warranty.
The cush drive has a needle bearing that goes out, the cush drive is the hub that the sprocket/pully is bolted too.
I had to replace mine at about 40K miles, I caught mine before it seized and spun on the hub and ruined cush drive,axel ect.
IMG_4455.jpg
 

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TDWay, the cush drive bearing is shot, if you have warranty than take the bike to the dealer, do not ride it as the wheel can lock up.
Yamaha has replaced several of them under warranty.
The cush drive has a needle bearing that goes out, the cush drive is the hub that the sprocket/pully is bolted too.
I had to replace mine at about 40K miles, I caught mine before it seized and spun on the hub and ruined cush drive,axel ect.
View attachment 2655

for which model? is it the same for the 950?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine is a 2009 V tween 950 XVS95Y, w/hard bags
Any idea what this job will cost if not warranted?
<-- holding my breath
 

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This affects all belt drive models.
You can get the bearings on the internet, it is a kit that has all the bearings and seals for around $60.00.
It is not a hard job to change, buy a bearing puller at Harbor Freight for $17.00 and remove the rear wheel and pull the cush drive off of the wheel and remove the seal and the snap rings from both sides and pull the inside ball bearing so you can remove the needle bearing collar so you can remove the needle bearing.
 

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Mine just failed for the second time, 2009 Vstar 950 tourer, done about 45,000 I had the bike from new, regular servicing etc. The first time it failed (30,000) it seized completely and wrote off the entire rear end, swing arm, axle and hub ($1300). Fortunately my wife and I were only traveling slowly, on a freeway it could have be very exciting. I have posted this before: any strange noises from the rear-end on these bikes stop immediately! The first failure was covered by the initial 2 year warranty, and afterwards I took the option of a further two years - so hopefully this latest problem will also be covered. On this occasion I heard the noise and perhaps not much damage has been done - I am taking it to the dealer on Tuesday. I should say that both the Yamaha dealers that handled this problem were very helpful, but there does seem to a design problem with this bike's rear end.
Geoff
 

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A couple dealers have ruined the swing arm and the wheel, the cush drive bearing has frozen to the axel.
Yamaha has replaced several that have been out of warranty, they know about the problem.
Call Star motorcycles customer service at 800-656-7695 and tell them about the problem.
Tell the guy to quit pounding on it before he does a lot more damage, Take a sawsall and get enough clearance to cut the axel between the swingarm and the bushing on both sides so you can remove the wheel and push the axel out with the cush drive and not ruin the hub and swing arm.
[Get a bigger hammer does not work on everything]
To relube the cush drive needle bearing you pull the cush drive and take the ball bearing circlip out and pull the ballbearing out and than you can slide the collar out of the needle bearing and relube it, I use Kytec ultra lube which costs $60.00 for a 2 oz tube but any good molyd grease should be fine, there are two needles and two ballbearings in the wheel and drive.
Good luck
Jim
 

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Just had the bearings and hub replaced at 39200, cost of $287 for the whole job at the shop I go to.
 

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Did you call Star customer service?, if so ,call them again, they have taken care of several others.
Jim
Hi Jim, I called but the mechanic already had the bike in parts and the closest authorized dealership was another 40 miles away.
 

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hey group. I know this is an old thread but I was wondering. Those of you who have had that bearing go out, did it make a matalic clicking sound? My 950T is making that noise now coming out of the back somewhere. I don't trust it right now so I'm thinking I'll have to rent a trailer and haul it up to the dealership durring the off season. I was wondering if this cush bearing is what the problem is. 24K miles.
 

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hey group. I know this is an old thread but I was wondering. Those of you who have had that bearing go out, did it make a matalic clicking sound? My 950T is making that noise now coming out of the back somewhere. I don't trust it right now so I'm thinking I'll have to rent a trailer and haul it up to the dealership durring the off season. I was wondering if this cush bearing is what the problem is. 24K miles.
Yes it started with a clicking and escalated quickly
 

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Metallic clicking

When my bearing failed it happened quite quickly - my wife (passenger) said there was a high pitched squeal, later I heard it too (helmet off) but could not at that point see anything wrong. 24 hours and about 50 miles later it seized solid. (15,000 miles from new)

NOW - after another 35,000 miles I am intimately acquainted with some of the noises that emanate from the back of this bike, and every time I go into panic mode. Is the "metallic clicking" loud if you stop after a run, turn the engine off and back the bike up? If so its probably the drive belt - I know, difficult to believe, I was sure the gearbox was failing, but that belt is TIGHT and can shift very slightly on the sprocket and make a sort of creaking noise that sounds metallic, throw a bucket of water over it and try again, if it changes the noise (it might get worse) then its likely the belt - try adjusting it.

I got so paranoid about this business I had the AAA take it to my local dealer at one point when it started making yet another odd sound. He heard the noise (another sort of squealing) and agreed there was something wrong. Took the entire back end to pieces checked everything (inc the needle roller) but found nothing, re-assembled it and the noise was gone. Now and again after a long (500 mile) run it will start making a noise - but I am fairly convinced that its the belt. Check the bearing for heat - if its getting hot then you may have a problem. I am off the road just now but thinking of replacing the drive belt - just in case.

Normally I do all my own servicing, but I don't touch the back wheel on this bike. Its just about out of warranty now (I paid for the extended) and I didn't want be blamed for doing something wrong! Now the warranty is out changing the belt is the next thing...
Geoff
 

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just helped a buddy take apart his rear end because of a seized bearing, or several. it's difficult to say what it sounded like while riding because the issue caused his rear rotar nuts to scrape against his brake caliper, and that sounded like a metal screeching sound. but once we were stopped and put the bike on a lift, rotating the wheel made a crunching sound which were the bearings being dragged and scraped. most of them had been shredded, but the wheel didn't have much difficulty in still rotating. the problem occurred on our first ride after he had replaced the tire.

the whole thing was caused because he over-tightened his rear axle when changing out tires to go to the darkside. he didn't use the correct torque. ended up having to cut off his swingarm and axle just to get it out and the wheel off. let this be a lesson.
 
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