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Discussion Starter #1
Got an issue with my 2008 1300 -

Bike was first sold in 2011 and had only 5032 miles on it when I bought it 6/23/2018. That means it sat - a LOT. Tank and sub-tank were full of rust/sludge (got that taken care of, I think - see my garage for an interesting pic of what was in the tank). Still having an issue with cut-out after it's warmed up - I'll be running just fine and then it starts missing and gets progressively worse. I'll coast, turn the bike off then immediately restart and I'll be good for another few miles until the process repeats itself. This doesn't keep me from completing long rides but is very annoying and potentially dangerous if I have to accelerate quickly. The fact that it's intermittent and that turning it off/on provides a temporary fix indicates to me an electronic problem rather than vacuum or fuel.

Anyone else had this problem? Do you think that Ivan's flash and performance package (with fuel controller) would solve my issue?

Thanks for your help folks!

Frank
 

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intermittant problems are the hardest thing to debug. I dont think an ECM flash will affect that, you could be right, the ignition could be dropping out.

A simple thing to check is to pop the gas cap off the tank when it happens - it could be a plugged gas tank vent causing vapor lock.

could also be a flaky fuel pump, plugged fuel filter.

I had a very early fuel injected car that did this, a 1968 VW square back. I when to a neighborhood garage that had one that was wrecked. The mechanic let me start replacing the fuel injection sensors and the controller one at a time, till the car stopped stalling by the side of the road. I dont remember what the last sensor was that I replaced, but you get the idea.

You would have to be able to test it while its in the failed state, unless the ECM throws a fault code.

The factory service manual might have a debug tree for things like this. The manual for my Vstar 650 is posted on the internet as a pdf free download - I dont know if the manual for the 1300 is also out there.

Edit: another think: have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like? fouled out or burned from running lean? If they dont look excellent get new ones, gap them and put them in, just one less thing that could cause trouble.
 

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I had a simular situation a few years ago. I used apple cider vinegar to clean tank. With the amount of junk in yours it in the entire fuel system. What I did was to remove tank, filled with 5 gallons of apple cider and let sit for 24 hours. It did wonders, google the process, it works without damaging anything. Then I flushed with gas. Do not leave tank unfilled after you clean it, the rust will come back really quick, that's experience speaking. Here's my feeling on tank coatings, Don't use them. If there is one little spot that the coating does not adhere it will start to come loose and create a bigger mess. Below is a picture taken before and after the apple cider vinegar treatment. It looks that clean today, 4 years later. I would also pull the fuel pump and clean the strainer. The fuel injected pump rely on a fuel strainer that's attached to fuel pump. Discoloration on the screen is OK but should be clear of any gunk. This whole process will cost about $25 for the vineger and a few hours of labor, keep us informed. Good luck.

Before




After




Here's picture on rust that came out of filter, my 1100 is has carburetors with filter between tank and pump.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks KCW, here's what I have so far in answer to your suggestions:
- Can't pop the fuel cap while running, it has the "flip up" that can only be operated with the key, which is in the ignition....
- Could be a flaky fuel pump but why would the problem be intermittent?
- Can't be a clogged filter, because there isn't one - also, the screens on the petcock valve are completely gone so gas flows well
- No fault codes have been triggered
- The plugs were supposed to have been replaced just before I bought the bike - I probably shouldn't take anyone's word for that

I'll look for the 2008 1300 manual to try the debug tree - had no luck finding that manual before but found a 2007 manual. While much should be the same between the 2 years, the 2007 is a carbureted bike while mine is FI so there will likely be some differences.

lesblank, I appreciate your perspective. I already bought the POR kit but won't use the sealer - I'll just do the acid flush. BTW, would you also acid flush the sub-tank or just leave it alone? When I clean the fuel pump will taking the fuel pump off the bottom of the sub-tank mess up the gasket or is it an O-ring set up?

Thanks for your help guys!
 

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Can't pop the fuel cap while running, it has the "flip up" that can only be operated with the key, which is in the ignition....
Make a copy of your key. and then ride with the spare in the cap. and see if it a vapor lock scenario.

Could be a flaky fuel pump but why would the problem be intermittent?
It would intermittent because there could be a short win the pump itself. Plus the bike sat a lot as you said. Not moving is bad for all combustible engines and causes all sort of little gremlins.
 

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either way if you have one key or two, when the bike starts acting up you want to stop, open the tank and let it vent, then start the bike up and see if its ok.

Pulling the cap loose while you are riding could be sketchy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You guys are a wealth of info, thanks!! With your help I'll get the lot-rot out of her yet!

And honestly, I'm very satisfied with the bike overall. When not acting up it has plenty of power (even when riding 2-up on the hills here in Oklahoma), it's smooth riding and gets much better mileage than my Jetta! I'm really enjoying riding, even more than I anticipated I would.

Once more into the breach.....
 

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There has to be a filter on the fuel pump, I would look there, but yes, there likely isn't another filter.

I had an issue with my old honda car, it would only go upto 50mph, if you babied it, hit the gas hard and it would stall. The checkvalve in the fuel line feeding the engine was bad, and was restricting flow, so it couldn't meet the high demand when I needed to burn more gas.

Once I finally located and replaced that checkvalve is when my real issues started though. I found out I had 0% clutch live left, but since I had always had to baby it, I never knew.

From what you said, it works for a few min, then starts to die. Sounds like it cannot suck in gas fast enough to the fuel pump, so once you use up what you have in the line, it starts to sputter, give it a chance to catch up, and it's ok again for alittle bit. I would make sure all the hoses and filter and check the fuel pump itself if there is something in it's internal hoses or filters. After that I personally would likely change the fuel pump (after making sure I didn't overlook any other cheaper solutions).
 

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I'll look for the 2008 1300 manual to try the debug tree - had no luck finding that manual before but found a 2007 manual. While much should be the same between the 2 years, the 2007 is a carbureted bike while mine is FI so there will likely be some differences.
It should make you feel a little better to know that 2007 models (and all 1300s) are FI, not carbureted. (I have a 2007)
For the record, and someone correct me if I'm wrong:
I think that the 650s, 1100s, 1600/1700s (the OG V Stars and the Roadstar) = Carb
and 950s, 1300s, and 1900s (next Gen V Stars/Bolts and Roadliner/Stratoliner/Eluder/Venture) = FI
 

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That is how I have seen it. It is a huge change to go from carbs to EFI. Looked into what was required to convert a drz400 or dr650 to EFI, and it's a lot of work, if you can find stuff that is even close enough to be compatible.
 

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I think that the 650s, 1100s, 1600/1700s (the OG V Stars and the Roadstar) = Carb
and 950s, 1300s, and 1900s (next Gen V Stars/Bolts and Roadliner/Stratoliner/Eluder/Venture) = FI
you sorta lumped the V4 in with the Venture.... Yamaha/star has two bikes out with the 'venture' name.


The bike originally called the Venture/Royale, then available as a naked bike, or a standard windshield and saddle bag configuration called the Royal Star.

As far as I know the Royal Star V4 water cooled beast has always had 4 carbs. They might have put fuel injection on it after 2010, but nothing comes up when I search for it.

Fuel injection gives you better fuel economy, esp when the bike is configured for higher horsepower. When its working correctly its better than carbs.

The tradeoff is a simple down draft carb has only one moving part, and if they put any sensors, like throttle position, its a very simple passive sensor.

Carbs are bullet proof reliable as long as you take care of the bike, dont let you gas turn into jello over the winter, and dont get any crude or rust in your tank.

Fuel injection systems use more complex sensors, and simply because there are more active components that must all work, they are more likely to leave you stranded on the side of the road. The high pressure fuel pump required for fuel injection is a big part of that failure equation.

If you want a rock solid engine for riding thousands of miles away from home, that will not leave you stranded calling for a trailer to pick up your bike, get a bike with carbs. If you want to be able to jump on your bike and hit the starter, and always have the engine roar to life, get a bike with carbs.

I know that personal experience is only a small consideration compared to the experience of all the riders out there, but in the 43 years that I have been driving cars and riding motorcycles, I have never had a vehicle that would not run because of a carb issue, but I have been stranded many times by cars with fuel injection that had a bad sensor, control module, or fuel pump.

The other consideration: Ive never had to take a carb apart on any motorvehicle, but if you do have a carb issue, you can get a gasket kit, take if off the bike, and rebuild or repair or clean it on your kitchen table, for very little money. If you have a fuel injection sensor or pump or injector or controller fail, there is nothing you can fix yourself, take a deep breath because you are going to cough up a lot of money.
 

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Right! I completely overlooked the V4 Venture (and V-Max, come to think). I was thinking of the V-twins ... but then I would have overlooked the Viragos and perhaps some other, older Yamahas ....
Obviously my list is not exhaustive and thanks for setting me straight.
 
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