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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I've read a bunch of threads that sorta-kinda described my issue, though I could find none that REALLY hit the mark. Reading the other posts did produce some brainstorms (+farts), but thus far the issue persists.

The injury appears to be self-inflicted as I was trying to replace my ignition and start switches with non-OEM switches that would be mounted in locations that were different from stock. I'm almost certain that I shorted/blew something somewhere when I first tried to bypass the ignition switch by wiring a new switch to the 4 wire harness that the OEM ignition switch connects to.

Here's a summary of what I know and what I think I know:

Starter will turn when jumped directly from battery.
Headlight, turn signals, marker and brake lights work.
Instrument "cluster" works MINUS NEUTRAL indicator.
Neutral bulb is not bad.
Starter Relay (replaced) seems to work.
None of the fuses that I can find are blown.
Replaced 10A ignition fuse for gits and shiggles, no change.

I snipped the start and kill switches and twisted their respective leads together to eliminate them.
Starter Relay clicks when I put the bike in neutral, which I think means that it works, or at least means the neutral switch isn't the culprit... right?

What thoughts do you guys have based on this initial rundown?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good question. I don't know if there's anything between the relay and the starter, but I guess there wouldn't be. My thought is that the neutral light not lighting up means that some safety business on the bike won't let it start, though I would think it should crank in any gear with the clutch disengaged.
 

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Since you have been messing with the bars, I would check the clutch lever switch. Is it plugged in all the way. It's a two wire connection. You can bypass taking a paper clip and jumping the two. Just be careful as starter will turn when it's in gear. Connected is just to the right of numbers 8 in picture. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Les. I did jump that switch. Forgot to mention that in my first post. I also jumped the kickstand switch.

Does anyone know what the cast metal box with the cooling fins is that is mounted to the frame and sits at the front of the frame near the starter?

The manual that I downloaded from yon interwebs mentions "Relay unit (starting circuit cut-off relay)" and a "Relay unit (diode)", but I'm not sure where those guys are located.
 

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I ride an 1100 and had simular situation. Turned out to be starter relay. I'm not that savey on the 650. Here is how to test starter relay on 1100. If it's different on 650 hopefully someone will chime in.

 

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Found the starter relay test for 650.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, Les! It's that #5 Relay unit (diode) and #4 Relay unit (starting circuit cut-off relay) that I don't know the location of. I guess they're downstream from the starter (#3) and upstream from the starter relay (#6). I suppose I'll have to start at one end and follow wires to the other end.
 

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jumping out the neutral and kickstand switch is not 'testing' it.

You don't know if the switches are closed when the neutral or kickstand are in or out. If you jumped it and that is the lockout state, the bike wont start. Get a $10 volt ohm meter from Walmart or Harbor freight and verify the switch changes state when its actuated.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Gracias!

I saw a couple of pieces that might be those. I'll take down the markings on the outside and google them.
 

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jumping out the neutral and kickstand switch is not 'testing' it.

You don't know if the switches are closed when the neutral or kickstand are in or out. If you jumped it and that is the lockout state, the bike wont start. Get a $10 volt ohm meter from Walmart or Harbor freight and verify the switch changes state when its actuated.
You are correct that jumping it does not truly test it. Both of these switchs do nothing but complete a ground. A true test it to check continuity. But by jumping you are completing the ground to eliminate problem with switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It appears to be the "Relay unit (starting circuit cut-off relay)", part number 5KP-81950-00. This guy was in the rear wheel well. No continuity. I'll get one on order and then report back once installed and let you guys know if this was the only thing I fried. Thanks guys for all the input!
 

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Suggestion, use OEM on electric parts. Too many stories here about early failure on some of the aftermarket. Glad we could help.
 

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Thanks, Les! It's that #5 Relay unit (diode) and #4 Relay unit (starting circuit cut-off relay) that I don't know the location of. I guess they're downstream from the starter (#3) and upstream from the starter relay (#6). I suppose I'll have to start at one end and follow wires to the other end.
it's at the rear of the battery box down low on the outside of it, pull the rubber fender flap thingy back and you'll see it, you need to lift it up off the hook to free it so you can remove the plug, it,s not an easy component to get to, if the wheel or side cover was off it would be easier to get at, it's a pain to get the rubber holder back on that hook unless you lube it
 

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It appears to be the "Relay unit (starting circuit cut-off relay)", part number 5KP-81950-00. This guy was in the rear wheel well. No continuity. I'll get one on order and then report back once installed and let you guys know if this was the only thing I fried. Thanks guys for all the input!


Hey bud looks like I'm running into pretty much the same issue you're having, I tracked down the relay assembly and I have no continuity. I was wondering did that end up working for you? This thread really helped me out a lot thanks guys. I have no spark to either cylinder.
 
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