Yamaha Starbike Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Bike will not start. Replaced the starter, ignition coils, ICM, new battery, all lights are working. When I try to start it the starter turns, but it sounds wierd, got NO SPARK. Any ideas? Please help.
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut"
Joined
·
5,934 Posts
Noticed this is your first post. If you post in the New Members Introduction Section we can get to know you.


You said the bike sounded weird, in what way. Have you checked to make sure you are getting fuel? How did you test for no spark? Post as much detail as possible for us to assist you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I am a new member. Hi, everyone. I bought my V star 1100 brand new back in 2001 and after time I put some 17 inch handle bars on and did the wiring my self it was successful then about a year later blinkers went out. Kept riding a couple days after that went to start it and it sounded like somebody opened my oil cap and put a burrito with no hot sauce in it. Sorry I've had a really tuff time trying to explain to people what my bike sounds like. I have watched every video that I could possibly find on you tube and only one seemed close to my problem so I followed his videos and he get it fixed after taking it to the shop and doesn't say what the problem was. Possibly a starter clutch on way.
But, Ya The starter turns but it's not igniting the motor but I can hear the engine rotation cycle from the end of the pipes. I can't afford to take it to a shop, I just have enough funds to barely make it , maybe I could record the bike starting to give you a better idea on what it sounds like. Thank you
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut"
Joined
·
5,934 Posts
Yes, I am a new member. Hi, everyone. I bought my V star 1100 brand new back in 2001 and after time I put some 17 inch handle bars on and did the wiring my self it was successful then about a year later blinkers went out. Kept riding a couple days after that went to start it and it sounded like somebody opened my oil cap and put a burrito with no hot sauce in it. Sorry I've had a really tuff time trying to explain to people what my bike sounds like. I have watched every video that I could possibly find on you tube and only one seemed close to my problem so I followed his videos and he get it fixed after taking it to the shop and doesn't say what the problem was. Possibly a starter clutch on way.
But, Ya The starter turns but it's not igniting the motor but I can hear the engine rotation cycle from the end of the pipes. I can't afford to take it to a shop, I just have enough funds to barely make it , maybe I could record the bike starting to give you a better idea on what it sounds like. Thank you
If you could record a video that would be great. If you just to audio that would help also. If you upload to YouTube you can just copy and paste the video. Quick question, how long ago did the no start condition start, and had the bike sat very long without riding it?
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,737 Posts
Welcome from Atlantic Canada. I may be way off base here, but electrical issues followed by what I take to be a crunching noise. Could it be the stator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
956 Posts
Welcome from Columbus, OH! You will soon be getting information to help you get back on the road. There are some very helpful souls here that know bikes inside and out. Stand by.. in the mean time snoop around and enjoy the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,959 Posts
a compression test would tell you if you have a mechanical problem (bent or stuck open valve, no compression...)

one common cause of ignition problems is the ground wires use the frame - if there is a bad connection to the frame, like at the coils, or the ECM, the voltage and connection to all the 12V pins will look correct, but the return thru the frame is required to make a spark

this also happens on the black wire to the frame from the battery itself - you cant see the terminal from the battery, and it drives people nuts - when the battery wire is corroded to the frame the starter wont spin, or it spins very slowly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,350 Posts
Welcome from Wisconsin. You have the right guys helping you. I am curious because i have the same bike and it could help down the road. Good luck and keep us posted. There are a ton of great people here. Hope you get it running and stay a friend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Welcome to the forum from East Tennessee. If anybody has an answer, Les is the man! Love to see a pic of your bike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, I am a new member. Hi, everyone. I bought my V star 1100 brand new back in 2001 and after time I put some 17 inch handle bars on and did the wiring my self it was successful then about a year later blinkers went out. Kept riding a couple days after that went to start it and it sounded like somebody opened my oil cap and put a burrito with no hot sauce in it. Sorry I've had a really tuff time trying to explain to people what my bike sounds like. I have watched every video that I could possibly find on you tube and only one seemed close to my problem so I followed his videos and he get it fixed after taking it to the shop and doesn't say what the problem was. Possibly a starter clutch on way.
But, Ya The starter turns but it's not igniting the motor but I can hear the engine rotation cycle from the end of the pipes. I can't afford to take it to a shop, I just have enough funds to barely make it , maybe I could record the bike starting to give you a better idea on what it sounds like. Thank you
If you could record a video that would be great. If you just to audio that would help also. If you upload to YouTube you can just copy and paste the video. Quick question, how long ago did the no start condition start, and had the bike sat very long without riding it?
I have not road my bike for a long time. I've had it covered most of time, in doors. UntilUntil now. I took my carb out, unstuck the choke and cleaned out my tank, put fresh gas in it. And I still can't upload a video or audio. I think it's this phone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
a compression test would tell you if you have a mechanical problem (bent or stuck open valve, no compression...)

one common cause of ignition problems is the ground wires use the frame - if there is a bad connection to the frame, like at the coils, or the ECM, the voltage and connection to all the 12V pins will look correct, but the return thru the frame is required to make a spark

this also happens on the black wire to the frame from the battery itself - you cant see the terminal from the battery, and it drives people nuts - when the battery wire is corroded to the frame the starter wont spin, or it spins very slowly
  • I must have forgot one little detail, when My bike broke down, the last thing I did comming home from a ride was coast it into the driveway and it was very steep with a passenger on the back. So I bottomed out and smashed the oil level switch. Could that mean anything?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
a compression test would tell you if you have a mechanical problem (bent or stuck open valve, no compression...)

one common cause of ignition problems is the ground wires use the frame - if there is a bad connection to the frame, like at the coils, or the ECM, the voltage and connection to all the 12V pins will look correct, but the return thru the frame is required to make a spark

this also happens on the black wire to the frame from the battery itself - you cant see the terminal from the battery, and it drives people nuts - when the battery wire is corroded to the frame the starter wont spin, or it spins very slowly
  • I must have forgot one little detail, when My bike broke down, the last thing I did comming home from a ride was coast it into the driveway and it was very steep with a passenger on the back. So I bottomed out and smashed the oil level switch. Could that mean anything?
  • I must have forgot one little detail, when My bike broke down, the last thing I did comming home from a ride was coast it into the driveway and it was very steep with a passenger on the back. So I bottomed out and smashed the oil level switch. Could that mean anything?
I have a couple questions.
So I did a compression check for the first time but I didn't hold the throttle open I should probably do it over right?I had to call it a day anyway because I needed a batery charger. And if it is a bad ground connection will it show accurate reading on a compression test?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
Bike will not start. Replaced the starter, ignition coils, ICM, new battery, all lights are working. When I try to start it the starter turns, but it sounds wierd, got NO SPARK. Any ideas? Please help.
I recall reading threads here about 1100's having a poor starter clutch that can fail if you give the bike throttle when starting. Try searching "1100+starter" with the search tool and read those earlier posts.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,737 Posts
I recall reading threads here about 1100's having a poor starter clutch that can fail if you give the bike throttle when starting. Try searching "1100+starter" with the search tool and read those earlier posts.
That is indeed a known issue with the 1100s.
 

·
Registered
2000 V Star 1100 Classic
Joined
·
66 Posts
Sounds like you have quite a few things going on. Before you start pulling your hair out chasing down multiple things at one time, go through your normal process of elimination.

If you smashed anything (your sensor while bottoming out in your driveway), replace it. No matter how simple its role may be, it could cause a large failure (in this case, starting). You've changed many of your components to get the bike to start; battery, starter, wires, etc... you didn't mention plugs, but I may have missed that or you may not have mentioned it. If you did indeed change them, that's one more thing out of the way. I don't remember my plugs for the 1100 being pre-gapped, so make sure that you have the correct gap.

As others have stated, check your chassis ground (where the starter grounds to the frame) and check your battery ground as well. You have to have a good solid connection for full amps and volts to travel. Even with a new battery, if you are shy just half a volt or a couple of amps due to a bad ground, you'll get spotty or no results.

You said that you pulled the carbs and did a little work to them. If you are running fuel with ethanol, as is the case in nearly every state, and you've had the bike sitting for a long while, the ethanol will varnish. You probably already know this since you pulled the carbs. Remember, however, you have to do more than just clean the float bowl and throat. You need to pull the pilot and needle jets out and clean them as well. Further, if you've pulled and done anything with your carbs, you need to sync them. It's not as bad as you might think. Also, check your petcock and fuel filter as they can get all varnished up as well. Those parts are quite inexpensive, so replacing them is a bit easier. Lastly, on the fuel side, make sure that there is a click on your fuel pump as it primes for starting. you can put your hand on it an feel it.

If you are getting an audible clunk and it is definitely coming from the engine, it would usually be because it it out of timing somehow, but it doesn't sound like you've opened the engine at all.

So, in summary;

1. You've replaced all the components to get power, just make sure that your plugs are properly gapped and you have a FULL charge on your battery, and a good chassis ground - SPARK

2. Make sure that you don't have a gummed up fuel filter, fuel pump, petcock or carb jets - FUEL

3. If you smashed a sensor of some sort, replace it.

4. Listen for any audible clunk that sounds like metal on metal. If you hear something like that, stop immediately and have someone who knows about bikes take a look at it with you. You don't want to exacerbate a problem.

Just my .02, but when I picked up my bike, it wasn't running and I went through all these things to get it to start and run well. You'd be amazed at how one or two seemingly insignificant things greatly affect the bike and its performance.

Sinister
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,959 Posts
...
So I did a compression check for the first time but I didn't hold the throttle open I should probably do it over right?.
yeah you need to do it over to get the correct reading

the throttle literally chokes off (blocks) the air flow in to the piston, that is how the engine is throttled down from always running at full power

so it needs to be all the way open for the compression test - it needs a full mouth of air to compress and give the reading

also crank it till the needle on the gauge stops going up - if you turn the engine over only one stroke you will see the needle pump up, 2nd stroke a bit more, 3rd a bit more

the reason is not that the compression in the cylinder is increasing, its the air in the gauge and its hose that is being 'pumped up'. The gauge has a check valve to keep the air from flowing back out - so when you have cranked it several times and it levels off, that is the pressure in the cylinder fully trasnferred into the gauge

also, if the reading is low take the gauge out of the spark plug hole and carefully inject about half a teaspoon of motor oil into the spark plug hole and do it again

if it goes up in this "wet" test it means the rings are leaking. If it was low and does not go up, it means the valves are not seating tight (worn or out of adjustment).

and BTW, ONLY half a teaspoon of oil. Use a straw or a plastic tube to transfer the oil into the spark plug hole - if you put too much oil in the cylinder it will completely fill the void at the top of the compression stroke and the piston will not be able to move all the way to the top - it will hydro lock, Like a water hammer, into your cylinder head - too much oil will also give you a false reading on the compression, because it will take up air space and not compress. you just want enough to put a film between the piston rings and the cylinder walls.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,959 Posts
BTW, reading the thread again you said you have no spark

not sure if you mean the pistons are not firing, or if you have checked the spark and not seeing the spark itself

there is a cheap spark tester you can get from an autoparts store that goes inline with the spark plug. Its easier to use than trying to hold the end of the spark plug wire by the fins - and its only a few bucks

if you have no electrical spark that is your primary problem - dont need to chase the compression test if you know you have no spark for certain.
 

·
Registered
2000 V Star 1100 Classic
Joined
·
66 Posts
KCW is exactly right. This is the proper process for doing a compression check. You have to do it right to get an accurate result. If not, you could be spinning your wheels indefinitely because you're not starting from the right point.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top