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It began with me taking the bike for a spin in the neighborhood and the bike lost power. Seems like a out of fuel feeling but that wasn’t the case. Bike would turn over as in the starter would turn over. I tried to keep starting the bike to no avail and this led to a replacement battery. I just purchased the bike and the old battery was a 2013 so that made sense. I replaced the battery and took it for another spin and while trucking along in 4th gear it’s started spitting and sputtering and then stopped working. Turn the key over and nothing. I have cleaned the battery contacts, checked the fuses, battery is charged. When I attempt to start sometimes I get a high pitched whine. Currently when I start, the starter does not attempt to turn over and with my hand on the ECM I hear a relay click and that’s it. I’ve read a lot of forums pertaining to this and wanted to run the symptoms by everyone before replacing good working parts. Thanks for the help. My name is Matt and I need ride for mental health concerns and to distance myself from my wife j/k.
 

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Can you read the voltage on the battery? The other thing is how much gas is in the tank. I am wondering if less than 1/2 tank it may point to a fuel pump. Can you pull the plugs and see how they look. Did you notice speedo bounce or odo flash? If the votatge drops unde 10v at start you won't get spark. Hope this helps keep us posted.
 

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you just got the bike so how many miles did you ride before it started acting up?

if the bike sat for months or years, the fuel could have turned into jello in the tank, and riding it sucked the jello into the carbs

if you kept cranking the starter when it would not fire you may have worn out the starter clutch, or burned out the starter motor, or a corroded battery connection to the starter could have been getting worse and worse as you cranked it.

First thing to check: get a volt meter, put it from the + lead of the battery to a solid frame ground : you should see 12.5V with the key off, and when cranking it needs to stay above 10V at least.

Put the meter on the red battery wire side of the terminal, not right on the battery terminal itself, to see if you lose the 12.5V across the terminal connection.

It could be several things.
 

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Update. I have exactly 12 volts from positive to a known ground and 12 volts from the stranded red + wire to ground. When I turn the key on it dipped to 11.4 volts initially and when I hit the starter button it dipped below 10 volts. Kept the meter on and repeated the process and after turning the key it was at 10.1 volts. This indicate voltage regulator?
 

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was the starter spinning when you measured 10.1V?

If you have the black wire going to a ground on the frame, the spot where the black wire connects to the frame may be corroded, acting like a big resistor in series with the battery, causing the ECM to drop out, or the relay to shutter instead of closing

Trace the black wire from the battery to the frame, remove that screw or bolt, and make the metal to metal surfaces shiny - A dremil tool with a sanding drum works nicely for this.

If you go back and put the probes right on the battery terminal (the lead right on the battery) and it still drops to 10.1V when you hit the starter, then your battery is dead, or dying, or maybe it just needs to be charged.

IF the new battery is going dead while you ride it, then yes your regulator or alternator is not working.
 

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It very well could be. But if you charge the battery and it still doesn't start then it isn't. There are resistor tests you can do with it out. Mine passed but was still bad. If you can get it running and check the volts at battery should be up near 13 on idle, 12.5 - 13 volts high revs up to 14v. The only way the regulator is if battery goes down. Read the voltage sitting and then running it should show a difference if it charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update. She cranks. But my first reading while running at idle was 11.9 volts. When I revved it went up to 13.4 volts and dropped to 11.8 volts. In my mind the battery will run the bike until drops to 10 volts and below and stop. Not sure what do you guys think?
 

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I’ve had the same issues with the 650 and I started by pulling the none essential fuses and what I found was the carb heaters were taking all the output voltage at idle. So my fix for the time being was to leave the fuse out of the carb heaters now at idle 12.5 2000 rpm 13.5 or above. So give that a try but make sure you start out with a fully charged and clean battery also make sure the leads are actually tight.
 

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Update. She cranks. But my first reading while running at idle was 11.9 volts. When I revved it went up to 13.4 volts and dropped to 11.8 volts. In my mind the battery will run the bike until drops to 10 volts and below and stop. Not sure what do you guys think?
that sounds normal and it sounds like your battery was low when you started it

a charged battery should be 12.6V

maybe your volt meter is just a bit low

did you charge it before trying to start it? Maybe it needs to charge a little longer

when its fully charged on an external charger it will be around 12.8 to 13V... then it will jump up to 13.5V or more - Ive seen chargers pull it up to 14.5V - that is ok, but dont leave it on the charger that high.

To be clear it cranked and then it started, and you did the alternator check just now?
 

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Update. She cranks. But my first reading while running at idle was 11.9 volts. When I revved it went up to 13.4 volts and dropped to 11.8 volts. In my mind the battery will run the bike until drops to 10 volts and below and stop. Not sure what do you guys think?
As long as it keeps charging at 12.5 the voltage the battery charge should go up to that. Take it for a little ride without the battery cover and check it again after. I wonder if it is charging intermittently. That is exactly what mine did and it was the regulator/rectifier. I think when the regulator heated up it stopped charging. Here is a pic of mine when i replaced it. Youc an see the signs of heat

IMG_20190615_173134.jpg
 

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the Royal Star filter and oil change is so well laid out, it practically changes itself

touring bike design
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update March 24,
I let it sit on the trickle charger overnight. Disconnected and read 12.6v when the key was turned off. Took it for a mile and a half ride and took a reading with the key in the off position and it was 12.4v. Took a reading at idle and it read 12.2.
 

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Seems low yet what is the reading at 2500 rpms and do you have extra lights on it. I would try pulling the fuse for carb heaters and retest at idle and 2500 rpms. If you do have extra lights and no switch I’d get one installed for them. Most motorcycles don’t charge well at idle but you should see at least 12.5 At idle and 13.5 or better at 2500 rpms.
 

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^the last part is the important one

motorcycles might be draining the battery at idle speeds, pulling the battery down below 12.6V, with the lights on all the time, because the alternator is not spinning fast enough - motorcycle engines are not designed to sit and idle for hours

but when you ride you normally keep the engine over 2000 rpm - so as long as its charging (13V or higher) when you rev the engine up, its probably good.

to get to the cause of your original problem, you did have an old bad battery

maybe there was some water in the fuel as well - if the bike is running well, and the battery stays charged overnight, I think you fixed it.

I dont think anything can drain the battery when the key is turned off on an 1100 - but you should check the voltage in the morning just to be sure - it should stay over 12V... 12.6V would be really good. It should pretty much stay where it is when you park it after a ride.
 
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