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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, after replacing the starter clutch and getting the timing 180 out, I now have a bent valve and need to pull the engine.

I decided to take lemons and make lemon aide.

I am going to hop it up some, but not crazy, I am thinking about Metric Magic's 440 cams and milling about .035" off the heads. I already have pods, have removed the baffles and rejetted the carbs.

All sugestions and opinions are welcome.
 

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Well, that sucks, but at least you're making the best of it. Good luck with the mods and please keep us informed on your progress.
 

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I was nervous as all get out when swapping out the starter clutch and can easily see how it happened. Definitely never a good thing to hear. My Veronica is set up like yours (pre-op at least) and I would say she runs more like a 1300, so I am interested in hearing how well the oversize and cam set up works for you. Good luck and looking forward to good results.
 

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As everyone else has said, bummer. Definitely keep us informed and pictures of the build in progress would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea, I was pretty bummed about it, still am really. I tried to follow the recomendations but it got away from me. I totally know how to avoid it now, and how to be certain that the timing is corect, LOL.

I have someone coming over this week with a leak down tester and we will be able to verify that the valve is bent. Once we do the test I will order the parts and start the disassembly.

I will take pictures and might try a you tube video, I am not good at making videos but I will give it a go.
 

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Im at a loss how doing anything with the starter would mess up the valve timing?

do you have to take off one of the timing chains to replace the starter clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You have to remove the flywheel to install the new starter clutch and in the process I turned the crankshaft.
 

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I had a machinist help me replace mine. I totally would be in your boat. Sorry man. I bet that lemonade will taste real sweet!!!!!
 

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Yeah, the 1100 is nerve wracking to do the starter clutch on. It's not so much a clutch, but a 1 way bearing that the starter gear engages. There are about half a dozen marks that you have to line up and keep lined up with the crankcase cover on, with it off, and on both sides of the bike at the cylinder head. Add to that you have to keep the flywheel in place while breaking loose the nut on it...of course Yamahama has a special tool just for that haha. So I definitely feel for you Lou. I think some of the instructions I came across countered what the tech manual said about where to line up certain tick marks...so that didn't help any and now I can't remember which set was correct haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I followed the tick marks in the Clymer's manual, where it showed the flywheel lining up with a single mark on the lower cam gear, that is wrong, it lines up with the double mark.

If anyone else has a Clymer's, I would love to know if there book shows the same thing. I figure that at some point Yamaha did have a gear that lined up like what was shown and the part was later changed and the book was not updated, but that is just a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
To be certain, I performed a compression test todat and found the front cylinder to be 150 pounds and the rear 0 pounds. So it was time to get started. Parts are on order and I am waiting on a valve spring compressor to continue.
 

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Have you found out what all was damaged? Valves, pistons, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After I took those photos I went back and pulled the heads and you can see where contact was made. Also did a leak test which failed.
 

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I had not realized on some of these engines the valves are at an angle, not flat with the piston heads.

this would mean if an engine is red-lined and the pistons hit the valves (because the valve springs cannot pull the valves shut fast enough) the valves would be hit at an angle, which would bend them.

There is a thread with another rider who down shifted at 55mph into 2nd gear on a 650 - this is what could have happened to his engine: bent valves.
 

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The head and cylinder look pretty good considering what happened. Might want to rethink milling the head. With a higher lift cam you are all going to move the valve closer to the piston, and an over rev less than you did this time will have more devastating results. Just a thought as I've ruined many a good hot rod engines with builds simular to what you are thinking about doing. I floated valves on my mustang, knock hole in piston and the piston piece went thru oil pan. My rev limiter was set at what I thought was safe, but clearances were just too close. Had duel springs with a very high lift Cam.

 

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Les, you are mixing up LoupGarou with the guy in Alabama who down shifted and redlined his wife's 650.

Loup was replacing his starter clutch and got the cam timing 180 out, knocking the piston into the valves hard-over.

I cant find the other thread, its not under Vstar bikes or engine issues or general bike talk. Last I remember he was going to take his wife's bike to a shop and have them give him an estimate on the damage.
 

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Les, you are mixing up LoupGarou with the guy in Alabama who down shifted and redlined his wife's 650.

Loup was replacing his starter clutch and got the cam timing 180 out, knocking the piston into the valves hard-over.

I cant find the other thread, its not under Vstar bikes or engine issues or general bike talk. Last I remember he was going to take his wife's bike to a shop and have them give him an estimate on the damage.
Yes, you are right. Thanks for catching that. I didn't go back to beginning of thread. Teaches me not to rely on my memory. 😀. But the valve clearance concern is still valid with shaving head and higher lift cam, really have to watch redline, especially if using stock springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, that is what I was hoping to get, some suggestions and opinions. The more I look into it, I am thinking that milling the heads would not give me all that much in the way of increased compression and horsepower anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Job is complete and the test ride was a success. With the Dyna 3000 the bike seems to start much faster, the cams are aparent in the sound of the exhaust and the power increase from both is very noticable. I rejetted the carbs based on the Wiki page sugggestion and once again they were spot on. I am glad that I made the upgrades, it made the whole process of changing the valves a lot better.

The engine is heavy, without a floor jack and an engine lift I could not have done it by myself.

At one time I was thinking of buying a newer bike, one with fuel injection and possibly ABS, but I have decided to keep this bike. I have a ton of "me" in this bike, with a lot of mods, customizing and memories of the trips made, I just can't let it go. I will soon be painting the bike, another first for me, and when I am done I will post the pictures.

Thanks for the input,
LoupGarou
 

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...I have a ton of "me" in this bike...
when you are working on any machine and you hurt yourself, you must wipe your blood on the machine, for the offering to be accepted.

If you dont, you will have to do it all over again...

My DNA is all over all of my vehicles.

I picked up a couple 1500 cc air cooled VW engines by myself about 40 years ago.

yes, an 1100 cc engine IS heavy.
 
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