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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. So I am going to be doing a couple of things to my 1100 V Star tomorrow including an oil change, re-synching the carbs and the AIS Delete, but I have a couple questions about the AIS delete. I did a test disable by taking the tubes and looping them back and plugging the small tube with a golf tee (pics 3 and 4), but after I initially detached the tubes and then went to loop them back I noticed two screws in the silver tubes on the left (pics 1 and 2). The tube that is farther away, the screw is in there pretty good, but the closer one is really loose and falling out as well as really rusted.

Does this mean that someone tried to do the AIS delete already, and does this mean I should not do the AIS delete? If I do, will there be complications because of the rust or the screws?

I'm not really sure what to ask, I'm just a little hesitant because it looks like the previous owner tried to do the AIS delete and bailed halfway through.

I have already looked at the wiki knowledge base and the page for the AIS delete is kind of hard to follow because it is based off of a few diagrams that are really grainy and unreadable when you try to enlarge them. The link to the pictures is also down.

Any advice would be appreciated.
-Jesse
 

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Jstar, your right I saying that someone tried to do the removal but stopped short of removing it completely. I think that this person either forgot to remove the screws or discovered that it helped with the backfiring. He may have not removed the pipes because he liked the look of them but not what they were intended for. If you're going to remove the AIS completely, then go ahead and don't worry about what you just found. Let us know how it went.
 

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Just make sure you have the proper shells to smack in the holes. I have both mine cross lines like that as I haven't made it to a range to shoot my 45 lately. So until then it works for the purpose just not the cleanup. I have everything removed behind the tool box side as well so its just the tubes sitting there with a plug so there isn't a vacuum leak into the cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, thanks guys. I'm going to get started then. To the range! I'll post before and after pics later tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ok...I'm currently at the point where I'm going to start throwing **** through the wall if something doesn't start cooperating, aka beer break. I'm currently in the 2ndish hour of doing the carb synch, which should really only take a half hour tops. No matter what I do, the carb on the right side of the bike (idk if it's front or back, but it's on the right side) is always way more powerful than the carb on the left...what the hell? I have tried to turn the adjustment screw in both directions, in small increments and very slowly. Nothing I do is evening out the manometer. I've looked online and haven't found anything useful yet. Some one please give me some advice or point me to a video or something.

I don't know if this matters, but I'm using transmission oil in my manometer. Should I be using something else that is more dense and that wont move as easily?

Thanks,
-Jesse
 

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What are you using? I had the same problem with the build your own tool... That's the front carb btw. I ended up taking it to my mechanic around the corner he charged me 20 and was done in 5 minutes... He uses the actual yamaha tool worked way better, and to top it off it wasn't that bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought that was the front, but didn't want to post it and be wrong. I am using clear tubing attached to a 2x4 piece of wood and the fluid inside the tubing is transmission oil. Yes it is homemade.

I think I'm going to replace the transmission oil with engine oil and see if that helps, but if i do that and some of the engine oil gets into the carbs will that cause any damage? One of the reasons that I'm using tranny fluid right now is because I was told that if it gets in the carbs it won't cause any damage to the carbs.
 

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Pics 3 and 4 look like mine :D I did it that way in case me (or future owner) ever wanted to return the bike to stock condition.

Carb sync: Mine did the same at first. I went back to the carbs and made sure ALL adjustments were identical and checked/eliminated a vacuum leak. All was well for syncing carbs after that.

Note: I used 2-stroke oil in my manometer and it worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Done synching the carbs...took forever. I replaced the transmission fluid with engine oil and that worked out better. I found out something interesting and I don't know how this happened, but the adjustment screw was almost a full turn and a half too tight. How it got tight and not loose I'll never know, but once I figured that out it only took about twenty minutes to dial it in...and then trouble struck...now she won't start. First white smoke started coming out the exhaust pipe so I turned her off and let her sit a while. Then I started her up again and she spat a little white smoke and then out came a bunch of black smoke. And now there is a sucking noise coming from the fuel pump. I had the sucking problem last year though and it went away after some tinkering, but I was told that if it happened again to check the spark plugs first, which is what I'll do tomorrow when I get up.

So other than that I'm not sure what happened or what to do, but I'm thinking that some engine oil got into the carbs when I was synching them. I took off the top half of the air box and there was some oil in the elbows that connect the carbs to the air box, but not that much.

Am I looking at a major problem now if oil got into the carbs or is this a "let it sit overnight and it'll be fine in the morning" thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, I got her started last night, but I had to jump her off my car. I let the battery charge for a minute and turned her off and disconnected the jumper cables. Just for the hell of it I tried to start her again and she didn't have enough juice to start, so I jumped her again and charged the battery a little more and repeated the process. Every time I disconnected the jumper cables and tried to start her from the battery alone she wasn't able to start. I used a trickle charger overnight and this morning I tried again and still wasn't able to start her.

Now here is the other part to this problem. I don't think that the battery is the only problem, or even the main problem. I have the Kuryakyn Constellation driving lights installed and a few months ago someone knocked one of them loose and then it go hit by a rock on the freeway a week later which knocked it even more loose. I took it apart a couple nights ago when I was synchronizing the carbs. On the inside there is a bar that connects the turn signal to the auxiliary light and a nut on top that tightens everything down. There are also a couple of wires on the inside. I'm pretty sure I accidentally grounded a live wire because a little later that night I took the bike on a short ride and the auxiliary lights went out, when I got back it was a fuse. I replaced the fuse and when I tried to turn on the lights again the fuse blew a second time.

Ok, I know that's quite a bit of back story, but here are my questions. First, am I correct in assuming that I grounded a live wire? Second, could this be causing problems with the battery or starting the bike? And finally, should I replace the battery whether these two problems are related or not?

I will post pictures when I get home so you can see the inside of the auxiliary light.
 

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First, am I correct in assuming that I grounded a live wire? Second, could this be causing problems with the battery or starting the bike? And finally, should I replace the battery whether these two problems are related or not?
1. Yes you grounded a live wire. That is why the fuse blew.

2. As long as the lights are switched off or you still have the blown fuse in there, it is not causing your starting problem.

3. Since you charged the battery overnight and it still won't start, I would say it is possible that the battery is bad. Before you buy a new one, make sure all connections are clean and tight. That means at the battery and at the starter relay and the starter and where ever the ground is connected to the frame. A bad connection at any of those places will cause problems. If all connections are good, take your battery to an auto parts store and have the battery load tested. Most will do that for free. If it tests bad, buy a new one. If it tests good, then you need to go back and check your wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Before you buy a new one, make sure all connections are clean and tight. That means at the battery and at the starter relay and the starter and where ever the ground is connected to the frame. A bad connection at any of those places will cause problems. If all connections are good, take your battery to an auto parts store and have the battery load tested. Most will do that for free. If it tests bad, buy a new one. If it tests good, then you need to go back and check your wiring.
I have never looked at the starter relay, or starter so this should be an adventure. If I need to clean a connection, do I just use a wire brush? And since I am going to be looking at the connection to the starter I might as well check the starter itself. How do I make sure the starter is still good?
 

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You can clean the connections with a wire brush or a small piece of fine sandpaper. A full size wire brush may be kinda hard to get into tight spots but will work if you can get to it. Just follow the wires from the battery and you will see where they go. If the starter worked ok when you jumped it off, then the starter itself is good. I am pretty sure your battery is bad but better to check everything before spending money on a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, so all of the connections look good and I'll be taking the battery for a load test on Thursday afternoon when I have the time. But I noticed something interesting when I was checking connections. I saw that my choke was on...then I realized that I did the carb synch with the choke on...damn it, I have to start over. So later tonight and then on Thursday I will be pulling the carbs and cleaning them and then bench synching them. After I finally get that done I will be doing the AIS delete and I will post pics as I go.

Speaking of pics here are some pics of my auxiliary light after I took it apart. The first one is the live wire, the sheathing has been cut and is exposing the wire. The next one is the bottom of the light where the wires route through and then a better pic of the bottom of the light. The last pic is what looks like when everything is removed except the live wire. And the last is just a pic of my baby on a trip up to Tahoe =)

So can I just take some electrical tape and wrap it around the exposed area of the wire and leave it like that? I used a latex glove as a test (wrapped the latex glove around the wire) and turned on the light with no problems so I'm assuming the the same holds for some electrical tape.
 

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Electrical tape will be fine so long as the wire itself is not cut. If so, cut it and remove the bad section then reattach the wire and either solder and shrinkwrap (best method) or get some butt connectors from the parts store with shrink wrap on them. The shrink wrap will keep water out and keep your connection nice and clean and trouble free. Just make sure to crimp tightly if using butt connectors.

Btw if the bike is just clicking and the battery is good, it's probably the starter relay under the seat. Take the seat off and hit the start button and you'll find the relay under a plastic panel with 2 fuses and 2 wires going to it. -$10 on eBay for a new one, +$80 from a dealer..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I used electric tape and it is working fine. I also checked the starter relay, which I could not find until that helpful hint
2 fuses and 2 wires going to it
The relay is good. Connections are good and the fuses have not been blown.

In other news, I pulled the carbs and cleaned them out a little bit, and they weren't as dirty as I thought they would be :) But as I went to check the needle assembly in the front carb I couldn't get past the pesky screw in the pic i attached. It's too stripped to get any hold on. I'm not quite sure how to remove it. My only idea was to get a hack saw and cut a groove in the head of the screw. Other than that I have no clue. Any one have any other ideas, or will the hack saw idea work fine?
 

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