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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. I know there have been a couple clutch threads on this forum in the past, but I kinda want to get feedback from all of you, currently.

Here is why I think I might be doing some clutch work on my 2010 V Star 950 with nearly 22,000 miles on it:

I put over 14,000 miles on my bike in just one season, last season. Half of those miles where highway, when I crossed the country. And I would say the other 7,000 would be quiet a bit of town and backroads.

At the end of the season, I started noticing 1st and 2nd were shifting strangely. Downshifting seemed like it was slipping instead of clicking into gear. Also upshifting was weird and clunky and "slippy" at the same time. When I put fresh oil in it, it seemed to improve. I put maybe over 500 miles on new oil, but it started to seem to be slipping or hard to shift in 1st and 2nd gears again. I noted that it seemed like the gears were more likely to slip when the engine was hot, toward the end of the ride. At the beginning of the ride, with colder oil, low gear shifts were more deliberate.

Question for all of you: Have you replaced the clutch on your bike yet? If so, how many miles were on it?

I know a lot can be dependent on SO many variables. For example, at a traffic light I will, more often than not, leave bike in 1st with clutch pulled in. I know that this can wear out the clutch. I know that town miles will cause more wear and tear. I know that, perhaps, oil preference could play a role in clutch life.

My motorcycle guru friend says I could try replacing just the clutch spring first, and see it that helps. The clutch spring on the 950 looks like this:



It looks pretty sturdy, like it would not wear out as quickly as small springs would.

One question I would really like answered is if I only replace the spring, do you all think the new gasket I put on there will be good for a few hundred miles of test riding? I mean, I wouldn't have to buy a new gasket every time I open up that crankcase, right?

Thank you in advance to whoever replies back! The clutch replacement seems like something that I can totally do, but don't want to replace all the plates if I don't have to yet. Maybe I'm being too sensitive to wanting crisp gears, like I used to have.

(Another side note: The bike now has Yamalube 10W-40 in it. When I crossed the country I switched from Suzuki's 20W-50 to a Castrol 10W-40. - For some reason I think my bike runs better on 20W-50, even though I know you should run 10W-40 in cooler temps.)
 

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On the 1100's when adding cams and pods, many guys just stacked 2 springs to stiffen things up. You could also check Barnett for an aftermarket set up.
 

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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj8kpSj4-7RAhVs_4MKHevpBOYQFggkMAE&url=http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/3186-09-v-star-950-clutch-life.html&usg=AFQjCNHHcgj4v5NLp1X3TBxuaZcIA8ESiA&sig2=uIVno7UIwcoNSkqAswUyUQ it says here there is an adjustment at the motor end of the cable,you will need a manual for the procedure, you loosen the adjuster at the handle then do the bottom adjustment then get the proper freeplau at the lever.
doubling the spring will give you a heavy duty clutch, makes it harder to pull in tho.
 

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Since this is a clutch thread, and I have never done one on a motorcycle at all. How hard is it on a 950t? Not asking for how to do it, I know I can look it up, but time wise and experience needed. Sorry for the small hijack.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info Sick Mick.

nick57, I did read that thread. I have regarded my clutch as being perfectly adjusted. It seems to engage right where it should on the lever. But to be honest, I have never adjusted the bottom end. Wish I could play with it and take it out on a test run. (Just snowed last night).

NGM, not a hijack. I would like to hear how hard or easy it is to do, as well. From videos I've watched, it seems biggest pain is removing exhaust, floor board, etc., and taking the time to make sure you have the plates stacked right.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes. There was one time this summer that I let the clutch get too loose. I didn't realize it at first because the engagement is longer than on my previous sport bike. I had hard clunk *thunk* shifts until I realized I needed to tighten.

It seems like it's slipping, or doesn't want to shift into first and second.

Strangely I had to tighten my cable three times last season. And like I said, it now seems to be engaging in the right place off the grip. But perhaps I will check the bottom adjustment for the clutch. I can't find I instruction in the manual for it. I have seen it done on other bikes. But I don't want to be missing get anything. Like on a Harley, there is an adjustment you have to do with the clutch cover off, besides cable adjustment. (?)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spent some time out in my cold garage, trying to adjust the low end of the clutch cable. While I made some progress, I think I need to tighten it some more.

I know I made some progress because the slouch in upper cover that was not there before. Wish I took a pic at beginning.


But when I tighten the top back up, I realized the "fine tuning" at two points on upper clutch lever side were still maxed out to get a tight enough free play.

Maybe this lower adjustment was my problem after all???

Would it alter the length of the friction zone on the clutch lever end? I may, maybe, of observed a longer friction zone towards the end of season. Like it engages right off the grip, and longer, to fully bite into gear, with clutch fully out.

Like I said, the play on my clutch was good. But, if that small bit of cable at the bottom end shortens the friction zone, then, maybe that's something.

Wish I could take it for a ride...In the snow...but no.
 

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i'm not sure why there is adjustment on both ends of the cable. but i would leave a little play.there has to be a rod that goes thru the engine. and when the plates wear the play on it would increase. i looked for a service pdf on the 950 and bolt, nada
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't know why I cant, for the life of me adjust the bottom clutch adjustment here. Top nut does not move in dependent from threaded insert.

I've watch about 10 videos on how to adjust your clutch. Haha. I understand the concept. But of the top nut doesn't move independent, (it moves whole threaded shift inside), then there's no adjustment. ??

I've basically just scratched the crap out of the nuts with no change.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
looks like the top nut is not separate from the threaded rod. it is the end of the adjustment rod.it looks like it screwed all the way in. Clymer M284 2009 2012 Yamaha V Star 950 Maintenance Service Repair Shop Manual | eBay i recommend this, check to make sure its the proper one for your bike. i think you need to get inside the bike and no one here has any experience with the procedure.
Thank you very much! I've been trying to find info on a bottom adjustment. I will educate further. Guess I will be opening up that side case...
 
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